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94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed
some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in the system. One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the master/slave cylinder. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under
the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ mr_man wrote: > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > the system. > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > master/slave cylinder. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under
the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ mr_man wrote: > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > the system. > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > master/slave cylinder. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under
the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ mr_man wrote: > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > the system. > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > master/slave cylinder. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under
the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ mr_man wrote: > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > the system. > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > master/slave cylinder. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along
with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that apprently is the bleed access. "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@cox.net... > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > mr_man wrote: > > > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > > the system. > > > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > > master/slave cylinder. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along
with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that apprently is the bleed access. "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@cox.net... > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > mr_man wrote: > > > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > > the system. > > > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > > master/slave cylinder. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along
with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that apprently is the bleed access. "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@cox.net... > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > mr_man wrote: > > > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > > the system. > > > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > > master/slave cylinder. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along
with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that apprently is the bleed access. "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@cox.net... > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > mr_man wrote: > > > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > > the system. > > > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > > master/slave cylinder. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect bleed first try. On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 20:10:31 UTC "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along > with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the > line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that > apprently is the bleed access. > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@cox.net... > > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under > > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > > > mr_man wrote: > > > > > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > > > the system. > > > > > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > > > > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > > > master/slave cylinder. > > -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect bleed first try. On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 20:10:31 UTC "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along > with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the > line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that > apprently is the bleed access. > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@cox.net... > > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under > > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > > > mr_man wrote: > > > > > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > > > the system. > > > > > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > > > > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > > > master/slave cylinder. > > -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect bleed first try. On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 20:10:31 UTC "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along > with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the > line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that > apprently is the bleed access. > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@cox.net... > > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under > > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > > > mr_man wrote: > > > > > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > > > the system. > > > > > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > > > > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > > > master/slave cylinder. > > -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect bleed first try. On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 20:10:31 UTC "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along > with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the > line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that > apprently is the bleed access. > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@cox.net... > > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under > > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup. > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > > > mr_man wrote: > > > > > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed > > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes > > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when > > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes > > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go, > > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend. > > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release > > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping > > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a > > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though. > > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in > > > the system. > > > > > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak > > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the > > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil > > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny. > > > > > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need > > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace > > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant > > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the > > > master/slave cylinder. > > -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > bleed first try. Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. These units don't seem to fail very often. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > bleed first try. Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. These units don't seem to fail very often. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > bleed first try. Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. These units don't seem to fail very often. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > bleed first try. Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. These units don't seem to fail very often. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
i had the same problem with the leak between the oil pan and tranny...
replace the oil pan gasket, and you should be good to go. it was really cheap at like a bumper to bumper... don't forget the gasket sealer. good luck, bobbyg |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
i had the same problem with the leak between the oil pan and tranny...
replace the oil pan gasket, and you should be good to go. it was really cheap at like a bumper to bumper... don't forget the gasket sealer. good luck, bobbyg |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
i had the same problem with the leak between the oil pan and tranny...
replace the oil pan gasket, and you should be good to go. it was really cheap at like a bumper to bumper... don't forget the gasket sealer. good luck, bobbyg |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
i had the same problem with the leak between the oil pan and tranny...
replace the oil pan gasket, and you should be good to go. it was really cheap at like a bumper to bumper... don't forget the gasket sealer. good luck, bobbyg |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > bleed first try. > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > These units don't seem to fail very often. That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line anyway. -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > bleed first try. > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > These units don't seem to fail very often. That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line anyway. -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > bleed first try. > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > These units don't seem to fail very often. That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line anyway. -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > bleed first try. > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > These units don't seem to fail very often. That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line anyway. -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > bleed first try. > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > anyway. I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & bled. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > bleed first try. > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > anyway. I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & bled. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > bleed first try. > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > anyway. I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & bled. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > bleed first try. > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > anyway. I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & bled. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > > bleed first try. > > > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > > anyway. > > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & > bled. Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out. Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little. -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > > bleed first try. > > > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > > anyway. > > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & > bled. Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out. Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little. -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > > bleed first try. > > > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > > anyway. > > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & > bled. Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out. Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little. -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > > bleed first try. > > > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > > anyway. > > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & > bled. Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out. Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little. -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net... > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG" > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > > > bleed first try. > > > > > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > > > > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > > > anyway. > > > > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but > > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states > > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that > > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & > > bled. > > Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to > go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to > route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't > get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners > and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust > pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the > swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the > mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto > had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and > the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a > replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty > specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and > valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc > during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if > you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to > compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything > out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out. > Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little. Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure it ought to be flushed. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net... > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG" > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > > > bleed first try. > > > > > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > > > > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > > > anyway. > > > > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but > > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states > > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that > > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & > > bled. > > Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to > go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to > route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't > get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners > and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust > pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the > swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the > mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto > had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and > the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a > replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty > specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and > valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc > during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if > you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to > compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything > out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out. > Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little. Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure it ought to be flushed. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net... > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG" > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > > > bleed first try. > > > > > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > > > > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > > > anyway. > > > > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but > > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states > > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that > > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & > > bled. > > Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to > go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to > route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't > get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners > and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust > pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the > swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the > mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto > had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and > the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a > replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty > specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and > valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc > during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if > you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to > compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything > out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out. > Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little. Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure it ought to be flushed. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-LVdTdGHomeWo@anon.none.net... > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 04:01:54 UTC "Jerry McG" > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-uGK27do7qZgg@anon.none.net... > > > On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:03:42 UTC "Jerry McG" > > > <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > "Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message > > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net... > > > > > That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up > > > > > and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2 > > > > > bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and > > > > > hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of > > > > > the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's > > > > > full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no > > > > > bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and > > > > > drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the > > > > > junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when > > > > > that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect > > > > > bleed first try. > > > > > > > > Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will! > > > > > > > > BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless > > > > lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all. > > > > These units don't seem to fail very often. > > > > > > That was a bitch and a half, Jerry. I finally found a local > > > hydraulics shop that could get the right fittings for the ends of the > > > line and had them make me up a stainless one. On the MJ (and likely > > > the XJ) that line runs pretty close to the exhaust so I figured it was > > > only a matter of time before a plastic line went titsup again. This > > > was converting an 88 MJ from a BA10/5 and internal slave to an AX15 > > > w/external slave so the fit wasn't perfect with the plastic line > > > anyway. > > > > I've wanted to flush the fluid in the master/slave as a maintenance item but > > had no idea what the bleed procedure was. The factory manual just states > > that the late- style master & external slave are replaced as a unit and that > > it's sealed. Seemed unlikely they'd sell you the things already filled & > > bled. > > Supposedly, that is in fact the case; they come pre-bled and ready to > go. Now, how the heck you get them in is another matter. I tried to > route the pair initially as shown in the FSM, but I just flat couldn't > get that plastic tube to stretch enought to make a couple of corners > and neither cylinder wanted to go between the fuel/steering/exhaust > pieces. That could easily have been an issue simply because of the > swap I was doing, but look at it before you start. I did replace the > mc on my junk yard set after about a year when the local Advanced Auto > had a brand new mc they had special ordered - guy never came back and > the manager made a price too good to pass up when I was looking for a > replacement line. The instructions that came with it were pretty > specific about the bench bleed procedure. Seems there is a seal and > valve inside that will get messed up if you over-compress the mc > during the bleed so I'd be careful not to let the master run dry if > you use a gravity bleed. To get a good flush, you will also have to > compress the slave by hand (or with a clamp) to really get everything > out of it since you'll have it in a sump position to get the air out. > Not hard, but you have to think ahead a little. Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure it ought to be flushed. |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 12:15:17 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work > on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The > systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure > it ought to be flushed. That, and the fact it's black and no longer transparebt when you check <g>? I tried using a reverse pressure bleed from the bottom since I have a couple of drawers full of misc. adapters and fitting accumulated over the years. Never did get the mc to set up right - I think there is a resevoir chamber in there similar to some of the old Bendix brake masters that never gets flushed/purged except via a true bench bleed. -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 12:15:17 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work > on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The > systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure > it ought to be flushed. That, and the fact it's black and no longer transparebt when you check <g>? I tried using a reverse pressure bleed from the bottom since I have a couple of drawers full of misc. adapters and fitting accumulated over the years. Never did get the mc to set up right - I think there is a resevoir chamber in there similar to some of the old Bendix brake masters that never gets flushed/purged except via a true bench bleed. -- Will Honea |
Re: 94 YJ trouble shifting into gears, clutch pedal quirky
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 12:15:17 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote: > > Thanks, Will. I have a little Motive Power pressure bleeder that might work > on it. Not sure I have an adapter that will fit the cap, however. The > systems been on there for 11 years (it's August '93 production) and I'm sure > it ought to be flushed. That, and the fact it's black and no longer transparebt when you check <g>? I tried using a reverse pressure bleed from the bottom since I have a couple of drawers full of misc. adapters and fitting accumulated over the years. Never did get the mc to set up right - I think there is a resevoir chamber in there similar to some of the old Bendix brake masters that never gets flushed/purged except via a true bench bleed. -- Will Honea |
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