That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
bleed first try.

On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 20:10:31 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

> The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along
> with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the
> line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that
> apprently is the bleed access.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@***.net...
> > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under
> > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > mr_man wrote:
> > >
> > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed
> > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes
> > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when
> > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes
> > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go,
> > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend.
> > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release
> > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping
> > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a
> > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though.
> > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in
> > > the system.
> > >
> > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak
> > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the
> > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil
> > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny.
> > >
> > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need
> > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace
> > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant
> > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the
> > > master/slave cylinder.
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
bleed first try.

On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 20:10:31 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

> The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along
> with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the
> line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that
> apprently is the bleed access.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@***.net...
> > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under
> > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > mr_man wrote:
> > >
> > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed
> > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes
> > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when
> > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes
> > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go,
> > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend.
> > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release
> > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping
> > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a
> > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though.
> > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in
> > > the system.
> > >
> > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak
> > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the
> > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil
> > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny.
> > >
> > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need
> > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace
> > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant
> > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the
> > > master/slave cylinder.
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
bleed first try.

On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 20:10:31 UTC "Jerry McG"
<gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:

> The later YJs (94 & 95) use an external slave which is sold as a unit along
> with the master. It can be bled but I'm not sure how that's done. On the
> line from the master, near the slave there's a plug with an allen screw that
> apprently is the bleed access.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:40C21CA5.31C88E34@***.net...
> > You need a new clutch master cylinder, if hooking your toe under
> > the pedal and pumping doesn't suck the brake fluid back under the cup.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > mr_man wrote:
> > >
> > > So I've had my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd for a few weeks now, and I've noticed
> > > some quirkiness in the clutch and gear shifting. 1st gear sometimes
> > > takes a lot of force to engage, I get bad grinding sometimes when
> > > shifting into reverse, and I've noticed that 2nd gear and sometimes
> > > 3rd feels a little sticky when engaging. These problems come and go,
> > > it was acting up a lot after a 200 mile road trip I took last weekend.
> > > Also, when I first got the Jeep, I noticed that when I would release
> > > the clutch pedal it sometimes wouldn't rebound all the way, stopping
> > > maybe 1" or 1/2" from fully released. It would kinda pop out after a
> > > while. I haven't noticed the clutch pedal doing this lately though.
> > > Clutch fluid resevoir is full, there doesn't seem to be any leaks in
> > > the system.
> > >
> > > One other note -- there appears to be a little bit of an oil leak
> > > between the oil pan and the tranny. No spots on the driveway but the
> > > bottom of the oilpan is a little moist with black stuff and the oil
> > > stain traces back to where it meets the tranny.
> > >
> > > Any ideas? Does this sound like my clutch master/slave cylinders need
> > > to be replaced? I was all set to bleed the clutch tonight and replace
> > > the fluid but apparently the clutch system in 94/95 YJ's isn't meant
> > > to be bled. So I'm thinking the next step is to replace the
> > > master/slave cylinder.
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
> and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
> hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
> the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
> bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
> drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
> junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> bleed first try.

Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!

BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless
lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
These units don't seem to fail very often.

 

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
> and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
> hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
> the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
> bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
> drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
> junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> bleed first try.

Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!

BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless
lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
These units don't seem to fail very often.

 

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
> and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
> hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
> the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
> bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
> drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
> junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> bleed first try.

Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!

BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless
lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
These units don't seem to fail very often.

 

"Will Honea" <hwj25(remove this)@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-OxtI9Umr0jl2@anon.none.net...
> That hex screw is the bleed valve. They actually managed to screw up
> and make a system that is easy to bleed single handed! Pull the 2
> bolts that hold the slave to the bell housing, back the slave out and
> hold it so that the hex screw is above the feed line and at the top of
> the slave unit. Crack the cap open on the master (make sure it's
> full), then slowly open the bleed screw until fluid comes out with no
> bubbles (they form on the outside). Just don't get carried away and
> drai nthe master. I've had to do mine twice after I got it from the
> junkyard. The first time was the initial install, the second when
> that cheap-assed plastic line split. Both times gave me a perfect
> bleed first try.

Wow, now I know how to bleed the friggin' thing! Thanks Will!

BTW,what did you replace the plastic line with? I've seen some stainless
lines for TJs with extreme body lifts, but thats about all.
These units don't seem to fail very often.

 

i had the same problem with the leak between the oil pan and tranny...
replace the oil pan gasket, and you should be good to go. it was really
cheap at like a bumper to bumper... don't forget the gasket sealer.

good luck,
bobbyg

 

i had the same problem with the leak between the oil pan and tranny...
replace the oil pan gasket, and you should be good to go. it was really
cheap at like a bumper to bumper... don't forget the gasket sealer.

good luck,
bobbyg

 

i had the same problem with the leak between the oil pan and tranny...
replace the oil pan gasket, and you should be good to go. it was really
cheap at like a bumper to bumper... don't forget the gasket sealer.

good luck,
bobbyg