DougW

mike did pass the time by typing:
> ok i got the dash to come back, i inspected all the fuses in the under
> dash panel and they all looked visually good so i decided to test
> their resitance anyway...
> i found that almost all the fuses had a layer of corrosion over their
> blades, i cleand them with some sandpaper and walla, now i can read my
> codes....
>
>
> 12
> 33
> 11
> 55
>
> 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
>
> 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in
> the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
>
> 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
> effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either
> camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop
> working entirely with no limp-home mode.
>
> 55 End of codes
>
> # 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or
> mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly
> uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes
> are not repeated.)
> # 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
>
> ok so 12 i know, and mine is a 91 with no ac so 33 is ok as well
>
> so 11 is the culprit
>
> i just changed the timing chain so i know its not that
>
> the cps is reading the correct ohm value (i measured a new one at the
> parts store with the same ohm meter)
>
> the cam position sensor when looked up i can't find anything, there is
> a distributor on this motor which leads me to think that i can adjust
> the timing like on old v-8s by twisting the distributor counter
> clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard...
>
> one of serg's postings seems to be the answer although like i said i
> dont have a simutech or really fully understand it...
>
> i am going to trace the wires from the cam positon sensor to the ecm
> to make sure a wire isnt failing, there is also a set of wires leading
> back to the distributor to a harness that may be the 'cam position
> sensor' i will also trace those wires back
>
> like i said earlier the timing is now at 0 degrees, an earlier post
> referenced 8 degrees advance so if the wires are good leading to the
> ecm i am guessing to twist the distributor - is this the right thing
> to do?
>
> also 11 can mean 'bad hall effect' what does that mean? i looked up
> hall effect and it has to do with voltage generated on a
> perpendicutlar wire running through windings that have a current
> flowing through them - is that correct and how does it relate and more
> importantly how do i get a good hall effect

Your CPS sensor is a "hall effect" sensor. It can go bad if the sensor
is contaminated by metal filings sticking to it. You can see it better
on ABS sensors as the fuzzies that stick to them.

This is for the 93ZJ but might help.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/wiring-sensor.jpg

DougW

mike did pass the time by typing:
> ok i got the dash to come back, i inspected all the fuses in the under
> dash panel and they all looked visually good so i decided to test
> their resitance anyway...
> i found that almost all the fuses had a layer of corrosion over their
> blades, i cleand them with some sandpaper and walla, now i can read my
> codes....
>
>
> 12
> 33
> 11
> 55
>
> 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
>
> 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in
> the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
>
> 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
> effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either
> camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop
> working entirely with no limp-home mode.
>
> 55 End of codes
>
> # 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or
> mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly
> uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes
> are not repeated.)
> # 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
>
> ok so 12 i know, and mine is a 91 with no ac so 33 is ok as well
>
> so 11 is the culprit
>
> i just changed the timing chain so i know its not that
>
> the cps is reading the correct ohm value (i measured a new one at the
> parts store with the same ohm meter)
>
> the cam position sensor when looked up i can't find anything, there is
> a distributor on this motor which leads me to think that i can adjust
> the timing like on old v-8s by twisting the distributor counter
> clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard...
>
> one of serg's postings seems to be the answer although like i said i
> dont have a simutech or really fully understand it...
>
> i am going to trace the wires from the cam positon sensor to the ecm
> to make sure a wire isnt failing, there is also a set of wires leading
> back to the distributor to a harness that may be the 'cam position
> sensor' i will also trace those wires back
>
> like i said earlier the timing is now at 0 degrees, an earlier post
> referenced 8 degrees advance so if the wires are good leading to the
> ecm i am guessing to twist the distributor - is this the right thing
> to do?
>
> also 11 can mean 'bad hall effect' what does that mean? i looked up
> hall effect and it has to do with voltage generated on a
> perpendicutlar wire running through windings that have a current
> flowing through them - is that correct and how does it relate and more
> importantly how do i get a good hall effect

Your CPS sensor is a "hall effect" sensor. It can go bad if the sensor
is contaminated by metal filings sticking to it. You can see it better
on ABS sensors as the fuzzies that stick to them.

This is for the 93ZJ but might help.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/wiring-sensor.jpg

DougW

mike did pass the time by typing:
> ok i got the dash to come back, i inspected all the fuses in the under
> dash panel and they all looked visually good so i decided to test
> their resitance anyway...
> i found that almost all the fuses had a layer of corrosion over their
> blades, i cleand them with some sandpaper and walla, now i can read my
> codes....
>
>
> 12
> 33
> 11
> 55
>
> 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
>
> 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in
> the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
>
> 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
> effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either
> camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop
> working entirely with no limp-home mode.
>
> 55 End of codes
>
> # 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or
> mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly
> uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes
> are not repeated.)
> # 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
>
> ok so 12 i know, and mine is a 91 with no ac so 33 is ok as well
>
> so 11 is the culprit
>
> i just changed the timing chain so i know its not that
>
> the cps is reading the correct ohm value (i measured a new one at the
> parts store with the same ohm meter)
>
> the cam position sensor when looked up i can't find anything, there is
> a distributor on this motor which leads me to think that i can adjust
> the timing like on old v-8s by twisting the distributor counter
> clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard...
>
> one of serg's postings seems to be the answer although like i said i
> dont have a simutech or really fully understand it...
>
> i am going to trace the wires from the cam positon sensor to the ecm
> to make sure a wire isnt failing, there is also a set of wires leading
> back to the distributor to a harness that may be the 'cam position
> sensor' i will also trace those wires back
>
> like i said earlier the timing is now at 0 degrees, an earlier post
> referenced 8 degrees advance so if the wires are good leading to the
> ecm i am guessing to twist the distributor - is this the right thing
> to do?
>
> also 11 can mean 'bad hall effect' what does that mean? i looked up
> hall effect and it has to do with voltage generated on a
> perpendicutlar wire running through windings that have a current
> flowing through them - is that correct and how does it relate and more
> importantly how do i get a good hall effect

Your CPS sensor is a "hall effect" sensor. It can go bad if the sensor
is contaminated by metal filings sticking to it. You can see it better
on ABS sensors as the fuzzies that stick to them.

This is for the 93ZJ but might help.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/temp/wiring-sensor.jpg

Will Honea

On Fri, 9 Apr 2004 01:06:28 UTC mcapsu@yahoo.com (mike) wrote:

> ok i got the dash to come back, i inspected all the fuses in the under
> dash panel and they all looked visually good so i decided to test
> their resitance anyway...
> i found that almost all the fuses had a layer of corrosion over their
> blades, i cleand them with some sandpaper and walla, now i can read my
> codes....
>
>
> 12
> 33
> 11
> 55
>
> 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
>
> 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in
> the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
>
> 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
> effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either
> camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop
> working entirely with no limp-home mode.
>
> 55 End of codes
>
> # 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or
> mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly
> uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes
> are not repeated.)
> # 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
>
> ok so 12 i know, and mine is a 91 with no ac so 33 is ok as well
>
> so 11 is the culprit
>
> i just changed the timing chain so i know its not that
>
> the cps is reading the correct ohm value (i measured a new one at the
> parts store with the same ohm meter)
>
> the cam position sensor when looked up i can't find anything, there is
> a distributor on this motor which leads me to think that i can adjust
> the timing like on old v-8s by twisting the distributor counter
> clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard...
>
> one of serg's postings seems to be the answer although like i said i
> dont have a simutech or really fully understand it...
>
> i am going to trace the wires from the cam positon sensor to the ecm
> to make sure a wire isnt failing, there is also a set of wires leading
> back to the distributor to a harness that may be the 'cam position
> sensor' i will also trace those wires back
>
> like i said earlier the timing is now at 0 degrees, an earlier post
> referenced 8 degrees advance so if the wires are good leading to the
> ecm i am guessing to twist the distributor - is this the right thing
> to do?
>
> also 11 can mean 'bad hall effect' what does that mean? i looked up
> hall effect and it has to do with voltage generated on a
> perpendicutlar wire running through windings that have a current
> flowing through them - is that correct and how does it relate and more
> importantly how do i get a good hall effect

Inside the distributor there is a pickup coil and wheel that is used
to define the #1 cylinder compression position - the CPS goes around
twice for on revolution of the distributor/cam so this is used to
completely define the engine position to the computer. On early 4.0
engines there was a problem with the wires breaking where they exit
the distributor and I've had the cam position sensor go bad on other
engines.

One common problem with the CPS is that the connector up on the
firewall gets cruddy and gets to be intermittent - clean that sucker
really well then use some dielectric grease to seal out moisture. The
CPS is a Hall Effect switch so the fact that it has a resistance
doesn't really mean that it is switching. You can check it with a
fast ohmmeter (analog, digital is usually too slow) by passing a
magnet or just a sizable hunk of metal over the pickup, but by then
you have it out anyway. If you replace it, I highly recommend the
dealer part - the price is usually pretty close and the quality is
much better than the cheap (not inexpensive, just cheap) replacement
parts.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Will Honea

On Fri, 9 Apr 2004 01:06:28 UTC mcapsu@yahoo.com (mike) wrote:

> ok i got the dash to come back, i inspected all the fuses in the under
> dash panel and they all looked visually good so i decided to test
> their resitance anyway...
> i found that almost all the fuses had a layer of corrosion over their
> blades, i cleand them with some sandpaper and walla, now i can read my
> codes....
>
>
> 12
> 33
> 11
> 55
>
> 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
>
> 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in
> the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
>
> 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
> effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either
> camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop
> working entirely with no limp-home mode.
>
> 55 End of codes
>
> # 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or
> mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly
> uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes
> are not repeated.)
> # 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
>
> ok so 12 i know, and mine is a 91 with no ac so 33 is ok as well
>
> so 11 is the culprit
>
> i just changed the timing chain so i know its not that
>
> the cps is reading the correct ohm value (i measured a new one at the
> parts store with the same ohm meter)
>
> the cam position sensor when looked up i can't find anything, there is
> a distributor on this motor which leads me to think that i can adjust
> the timing like on old v-8s by twisting the distributor counter
> clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard...
>
> one of serg's postings seems to be the answer although like i said i
> dont have a simutech or really fully understand it...
>
> i am going to trace the wires from the cam positon sensor to the ecm
> to make sure a wire isnt failing, there is also a set of wires leading
> back to the distributor to a harness that may be the 'cam position
> sensor' i will also trace those wires back
>
> like i said earlier the timing is now at 0 degrees, an earlier post
> referenced 8 degrees advance so if the wires are good leading to the
> ecm i am guessing to twist the distributor - is this the right thing
> to do?
>
> also 11 can mean 'bad hall effect' what does that mean? i looked up
> hall effect and it has to do with voltage generated on a
> perpendicutlar wire running through windings that have a current
> flowing through them - is that correct and how does it relate and more
> importantly how do i get a good hall effect

Inside the distributor there is a pickup coil and wheel that is used
to define the #1 cylinder compression position - the CPS goes around
twice for on revolution of the distributor/cam so this is used to
completely define the engine position to the computer. On early 4.0
engines there was a problem with the wires breaking where they exit
the distributor and I've had the cam position sensor go bad on other
engines.

One common problem with the CPS is that the connector up on the
firewall gets cruddy and gets to be intermittent - clean that sucker
really well then use some dielectric grease to seal out moisture. The
CPS is a Hall Effect switch so the fact that it has a resistance
doesn't really mean that it is switching. You can check it with a
fast ohmmeter (analog, digital is usually too slow) by passing a
magnet or just a sizable hunk of metal over the pickup, but by then
you have it out anyway. If you replace it, I highly recommend the
dealer part - the price is usually pretty close and the quality is
much better than the cheap (not inexpensive, just cheap) replacement
parts.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Will Honea

On Fri, 9 Apr 2004 01:06:28 UTC mcapsu@yahoo.com (mike) wrote:

> ok i got the dash to come back, i inspected all the fuses in the under
> dash panel and they all looked visually good so i decided to test
> their resitance anyway...
> i found that almost all the fuses had a layer of corrosion over their
> blades, i cleand them with some sandpaper and walla, now i can read my
> codes....
>
>
> 12
> 33
> 11
> 55
>
> 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
>
> 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in
> the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
>
> 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
> effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either
> camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop
> working entirely with no limp-home mode.
>
> 55 End of codes
>
> # 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or
> mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly
> uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes
> are not repeated.)
> # 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
>
> ok so 12 i know, and mine is a 91 with no ac so 33 is ok as well
>
> so 11 is the culprit
>
> i just changed the timing chain so i know its not that
>
> the cps is reading the correct ohm value (i measured a new one at the
> parts store with the same ohm meter)
>
> the cam position sensor when looked up i can't find anything, there is
> a distributor on this motor which leads me to think that i can adjust
> the timing like on old v-8s by twisting the distributor counter
> clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard...
>
> one of serg's postings seems to be the answer although like i said i
> dont have a simutech or really fully understand it...
>
> i am going to trace the wires from the cam positon sensor to the ecm
> to make sure a wire isnt failing, there is also a set of wires leading
> back to the distributor to a harness that may be the 'cam position
> sensor' i will also trace those wires back
>
> like i said earlier the timing is now at 0 degrees, an earlier post
> referenced 8 degrees advance so if the wires are good leading to the
> ecm i am guessing to twist the distributor - is this the right thing
> to do?
>
> also 11 can mean 'bad hall effect' what does that mean? i looked up
> hall effect and it has to do with voltage generated on a
> perpendicutlar wire running through windings that have a current
> flowing through them - is that correct and how does it relate and more
> importantly how do i get a good hall effect

Inside the distributor there is a pickup coil and wheel that is used
to define the #1 cylinder compression position - the CPS goes around
twice for on revolution of the distributor/cam so this is used to
completely define the engine position to the computer. On early 4.0
engines there was a problem with the wires breaking where they exit
the distributor and I've had the cam position sensor go bad on other
engines.

One common problem with the CPS is that the connector up on the
firewall gets cruddy and gets to be intermittent - clean that sucker
really well then use some dielectric grease to seal out moisture. The
CPS is a Hall Effect switch so the fact that it has a resistance
doesn't really mean that it is switching. You can check it with a
fast ohmmeter (analog, digital is usually too slow) by passing a
magnet or just a sizable hunk of metal over the pickup, but by then
you have it out anyway. If you replace it, I highly recommend the
dealer part - the price is usually pretty close and the quality is
much better than the cheap (not inexpensive, just cheap) replacement
parts.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Will Honea

On Fri, 9 Apr 2004 01:06:28 UTC mcapsu@yahoo.com (mike) wrote:

> ok i got the dash to come back, i inspected all the fuses in the under
> dash panel and they all looked visually good so i decided to test
> their resitance anyway...
> i found that almost all the fuses had a layer of corrosion over their
> blades, i cleand them with some sandpaper and walla, now i can read my
> codes....
>
>
> 12
> 33
> 11
> 55
>
> 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
>
> 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in
> the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
>
> 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
> effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either
> camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop
> working entirely with no limp-home mode.
>
> 55 End of codes
>
> # 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or
> mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly
> uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes
> are not repeated.)
> # 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
>
> ok so 12 i know, and mine is a 91 with no ac so 33 is ok as well
>
> so 11 is the culprit
>
> i just changed the timing chain so i know its not that
>
> the cps is reading the correct ohm value (i measured a new one at the
> parts store with the same ohm meter)
>
> the cam position sensor when looked up i can't find anything, there is
> a distributor on this motor which leads me to think that i can adjust
> the timing like on old v-8s by twisting the distributor counter
> clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard...
>
> one of serg's postings seems to be the answer although like i said i
> dont have a simutech or really fully understand it...
>
> i am going to trace the wires from the cam positon sensor to the ecm
> to make sure a wire isnt failing, there is also a set of wires leading
> back to the distributor to a harness that may be the 'cam position
> sensor' i will also trace those wires back
>
> like i said earlier the timing is now at 0 degrees, an earlier post
> referenced 8 degrees advance so if the wires are good leading to the
> ecm i am guessing to twist the distributor - is this the right thing
> to do?
>
> also 11 can mean 'bad hall effect' what does that mean? i looked up
> hall effect and it has to do with voltage generated on a
> perpendicutlar wire running through windings that have a current
> flowing through them - is that correct and how does it relate and more
> importantly how do i get a good hall effect

Inside the distributor there is a pickup coil and wheel that is used
to define the #1 cylinder compression position - the CPS goes around
twice for on revolution of the distributor/cam so this is used to
completely define the engine position to the computer. On early 4.0
engines there was a problem with the wires breaking where they exit
the distributor and I've had the cam position sensor go bad on other
engines.

One common problem with the CPS is that the connector up on the
firewall gets cruddy and gets to be intermittent - clean that sucker
really well then use some dielectric grease to seal out moisture. The
CPS is a Hall Effect switch so the fact that it has a resistance
doesn't really mean that it is switching. You can check it with a
fast ohmmeter (analog, digital is usually too slow) by passing a
magnet or just a sizable hunk of metal over the pickup, but by then
you have it out anyway. If you replace it, I highly recommend the
dealer part - the price is usually pretty close and the quality is
much better than the cheap (not inexpensive, just cheap) replacement
parts.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Mike Romain

Ok, let me see if I got this right...

You have dirty fuses so your dash quit on you. This caused a no spark
situation by shutting down the computer.

You then started changing things like the timing chain for some reason?

Now you have the dash and spark working but something is 'off'.

I would be double checking the timing chain.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

mike wrote:
>
> ok i got the dash to come back, i inspected all the fuses in the under
> dash panel and they all looked visually good so i decided to test
> their resitance anyway...
> i found that almost all the fuses had a layer of corrosion over their
> blades, i cleand them with some sandpaper and walla, now i can read my
> codes....
>
> 12
> 33
> 11
> 55
>
> 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
>
> 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in
> the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
>
> 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
> effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either
> camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop
> working entirely with no limp-home mode.
>
> 55 End of codes
>
> # 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or
> mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly
> uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes
> are not repeated.)
> # 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
>
> ok so 12 i know, and mine is a 91 with no ac so 33 is ok as well
>
> so 11 is the culprit
>
> i just changed the timing chain so i know its not that
>
> the cps is reading the correct ohm value (i measured a new one at the
> parts store with the same ohm meter)
>
> the cam position sensor when looked up i can't find anything, there is
> a distributor on this motor which leads me to think that i can adjust
> the timing like on old v-8s by twisting the distributor counter
> clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard...
>
> one of serg's postings seems to be the answer although like i said i
> dont have a simutech or really fully understand it...
>
> i am going to trace the wires from the cam positon sensor to the ecm
> to make sure a wire isnt failing, there is also a set of wires leading
> back to the distributor to a harness that may be the 'cam position
> sensor' i will also trace those wires back
>
> like i said earlier the timing is now at 0 degrees, an earlier post
> referenced 8 degrees advance so if the wires are good leading to the
> ecm i am guessing to twist the distributor - is this the right thing
> to do?
>
> also 11 can mean 'bad hall effect' what does that mean? i looked up
> hall effect and it has to do with voltage generated on a
> perpendicutlar wire running through windings that have a current
> flowing through them - is that correct and how does it relate and more
> importantly how do i get a good hall effect
>
> Thanks,
> Mike

Mike Romain

Ok, let me see if I got this right...

You have dirty fuses so your dash quit on you. This caused a no spark
situation by shutting down the computer.

You then started changing things like the timing chain for some reason?

Now you have the dash and spark working but something is 'off'.

I would be double checking the timing chain.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

mike wrote:
>
> ok i got the dash to come back, i inspected all the fuses in the under
> dash panel and they all looked visually good so i decided to test
> their resitance anyway...
> i found that almost all the fuses had a layer of corrosion over their
> blades, i cleand them with some sandpaper and walla, now i can read my
> codes....
>
> 12
> 33
> 11
> 55
>
> 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
>
> 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in
> the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
>
> 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
> effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either
> camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop
> working entirely with no limp-home mode.
>
> 55 End of codes
>
> # 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or
> mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly
> uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes
> are not repeated.)
> # 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
>
> ok so 12 i know, and mine is a 91 with no ac so 33 is ok as well
>
> so 11 is the culprit
>
> i just changed the timing chain so i know its not that
>
> the cps is reading the correct ohm value (i measured a new one at the
> parts store with the same ohm meter)
>
> the cam position sensor when looked up i can't find anything, there is
> a distributor on this motor which leads me to think that i can adjust
> the timing like on old v-8s by twisting the distributor counter
> clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard...
>
> one of serg's postings seems to be the answer although like i said i
> dont have a simutech or really fully understand it...
>
> i am going to trace the wires from the cam positon sensor to the ecm
> to make sure a wire isnt failing, there is also a set of wires leading
> back to the distributor to a harness that may be the 'cam position
> sensor' i will also trace those wires back
>
> like i said earlier the timing is now at 0 degrees, an earlier post
> referenced 8 degrees advance so if the wires are good leading to the
> ecm i am guessing to twist the distributor - is this the right thing
> to do?
>
> also 11 can mean 'bad hall effect' what does that mean? i looked up
> hall effect and it has to do with voltage generated on a
> perpendicutlar wire running through windings that have a current
> flowing through them - is that correct and how does it relate and more
> importantly how do i get a good hall effect
>
> Thanks,
> Mike

Mike Romain

Ok, let me see if I got this right...

You have dirty fuses so your dash quit on you. This caused a no spark
situation by shutting down the computer.

You then started changing things like the timing chain for some reason?

Now you have the dash and spark working but something is 'off'.

I would be double checking the timing chain.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

mike wrote:
>
> ok i got the dash to come back, i inspected all the fuses in the under
> dash panel and they all looked visually good so i decided to test
> their resitance anyway...
> i found that almost all the fuses had a layer of corrosion over their
> blades, i cleand them with some sandpaper and walla, now i can read my
> codes....
>
> 12
> 33
> 11
> 55
>
> 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
>
> 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in
> the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
>
> 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
> effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either
> camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop
> working entirely with no limp-home mode.
>
> 55 End of codes
>
> # 55 is end of codes - it's normal. Before you call your dealer or
> mechanic, consider that the blink-spacing is not always perfectly
> uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55. (Codes
> are not repeated.)
> # 33 is normal on earlier models if you don't have air conditioning.
>
> ok so 12 i know, and mine is a 91 with no ac so 33 is ok as well
>
> so 11 is the culprit
>
> i just changed the timing chain so i know its not that
>
> the cps is reading the correct ohm value (i measured a new one at the
> parts store with the same ohm meter)
>
> the cam position sensor when looked up i can't find anything, there is
> a distributor on this motor which leads me to think that i can adjust
> the timing like on old v-8s by twisting the distributor counter
> clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard...
>
> one of serg's postings seems to be the answer although like i said i
> dont have a simutech or really fully understand it...
>
> i am going to trace the wires from the cam positon sensor to the ecm
> to make sure a wire isnt failing, there is also a set of wires leading
> back to the distributor to a harness that may be the 'cam position
> sensor' i will also trace those wires back
>
> like i said earlier the timing is now at 0 degrees, an earlier post
> referenced 8 degrees advance so if the wires are good leading to the
> ecm i am guessing to twist the distributor - is this the right thing
> to do?
>
> also 11 can mean 'bad hall effect' what does that mean? i looked up
> hall effect and it has to do with voltage generated on a
> perpendicutlar wire running through windings that have a current
> flowing through them - is that correct and how does it relate and more
> importantly how do i get a good hall effect
>
> Thanks,
> Mike