Mike Romain

You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
too low. Likely no need to open anything up.

I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.

Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Troy wrote:
>
> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once a
> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>
> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check all
> the connections you mentioned
>
> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done this
> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that before.
> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even where
> the oil splashes from.
>
> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step up
> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've never
> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
> trust you guys more)
>
> Troy
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow is
> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I mention
> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound the
> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens to
> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it. Also
> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection compatible
> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs to
> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
> >
> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can tell
> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from the
> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
> >
> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using too
> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're in
> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue, as
> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the valvecover
> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may be
> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself. I
> >> will buy tools if I need to.
> >>
> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things would
> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's perfect,
> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
> >> after it's all warmed up.
> >>
> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
> >>
> >> Troy
> >>
> >
> >

Mike Romain

You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
too low. Likely no need to open anything up.

I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.

Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Troy wrote:
>
> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once a
> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>
> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check all
> the connections you mentioned
>
> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done this
> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that before.
> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even where
> the oil splashes from.
>
> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step up
> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've never
> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
> trust you guys more)
>
> Troy
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow is
> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I mention
> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound the
> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens to
> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it. Also
> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection compatible
> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs to
> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
> >
> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can tell
> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from the
> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
> >
> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using too
> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're in
> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue, as
> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the valvecover
> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may be
> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself. I
> >> will buy tools if I need to.
> >>
> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things would
> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's perfect,
> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
> >> after it's all warmed up.
> >>
> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
> >>
> >> Troy
> >>
> >
> >

c

I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.

Chris

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>
> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>
> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Troy wrote:
>>
>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once
>> a
>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>
>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>> all
>> the connections you mentioned
>>
>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>> this
>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>> before.
>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>> where
>> the oil splashes from.
>>
>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step
>> up
>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>> never
>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
>> trust you guys more)
>>
>> Troy
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>> > is
>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>> > mention
>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>> > the
>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>> > to
>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>> > Also
>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>> > compatible
>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>> > to
>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>> >
>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>> > tell
>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>> > the
>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>> >
>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>> > too
>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>> > in
>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>> > as
>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>> >> valvecover
>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>> >> be
>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself.
>> >> I
>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>> >>
>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>> >> would
>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>> >> perfect,
>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>> >>
>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>> >>
>> >> Troy
>> >>
>> >
>> >

c

I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.

Chris

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>
> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>
> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Troy wrote:
>>
>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once
>> a
>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>
>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>> all
>> the connections you mentioned
>>
>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>> this
>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>> before.
>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>> where
>> the oil splashes from.
>>
>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step
>> up
>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>> never
>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
>> trust you guys more)
>>
>> Troy
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>> > is
>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>> > mention
>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>> > the
>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>> > to
>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>> > Also
>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>> > compatible
>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>> > to
>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>> >
>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>> > tell
>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>> > the
>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>> >
>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>> > too
>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>> > in
>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>> > as
>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>> >> valvecover
>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>> >> be
>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself.
>> >> I
>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>> >>
>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>> >> would
>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>> >> perfect,
>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>> >>
>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>> >>
>> >> Troy
>> >>
>> >
>> >

c

I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.

Chris

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>
> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>
> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Troy wrote:
>>
>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once
>> a
>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>
>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>> all
>> the connections you mentioned
>>
>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>> this
>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>> before.
>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>> where
>> the oil splashes from.
>>
>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step
>> up
>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>> never
>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
>> trust you guys more)
>>
>> Troy
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>> > is
>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>> > mention
>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>> > the
>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>> > to
>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>> > Also
>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>> > compatible
>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>> > to
>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>> >
>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>> > tell
>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>> > the
>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>> >
>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>> > too
>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>> > in
>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>> > as
>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>> >> valvecover
>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>> >> be
>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself.
>> >> I
>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>> >>
>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>> >> would
>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>> >> perfect,
>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>> >>
>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>> >>
>> >> Troy
>> >>
>> >
>> >

Troy

Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.

I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.

Troy


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>
>> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>
>> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Troy wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>> I
>>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>> once a
>>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>
>>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>> all
>>> the connections you mentioned
>>>
>>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>> is
>>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>> realize
>>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>> this
>>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>> before.
>>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>> where
>>> the oil splashes from.
>>>
>>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>> step up
>>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>> never
>>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>> I
>>> trust you guys more)
>>>
>>> Troy
>>>
>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>> > is
>>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>> > mention
>>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>> > the
>>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>> > would
>>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>> > to
>>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>> > Also
>>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>> > compatible
>>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>> > to
>>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>> >
>>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>> > tell
>>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>> > the
>>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>> >
>>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>> > gets
>>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>> > too
>>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>> > in
>>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>> > as
>>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>> >
>>> > Chris
>>> >
>>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>> >> the
>>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>> >> valvecover
>>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>> >> be
>>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>> >> myself. I
>>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>>> >>
>>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>> >> major
>>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>> >> the
>>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>> >> would
>>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>> >> perfect,
>>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>>> >>
>>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>>> >>
>>> >> Troy
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>
>

Troy

Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.

I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.

Troy


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>
>> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>
>> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Troy wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>> I
>>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>> once a
>>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>
>>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>> all
>>> the connections you mentioned
>>>
>>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>> is
>>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>> realize
>>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>> this
>>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>> before.
>>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>> where
>>> the oil splashes from.
>>>
>>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>> step up
>>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>> never
>>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>> I
>>> trust you guys more)
>>>
>>> Troy
>>>
>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>> > is
>>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>> > mention
>>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>> > the
>>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>> > would
>>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>> > to
>>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>> > Also
>>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>> > compatible
>>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>> > to
>>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>> >
>>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>> > tell
>>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>> > the
>>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>> >
>>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>> > gets
>>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>> > too
>>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>> > in
>>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>> > as
>>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>> >
>>> > Chris
>>> >
>>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>> >> the
>>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>> >> valvecover
>>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>> >> be
>>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>> >> myself. I
>>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>>> >>
>>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>> >> major
>>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>> >> the
>>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>> >> would
>>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>> >> perfect,
>>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>>> >>
>>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>>> >>
>>> >> Troy
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>
>

Troy

Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.

I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.

Troy


"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>
>> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>
>> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Troy wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>> I
>>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>> once a
>>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>
>>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>> all
>>> the connections you mentioned
>>>
>>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>> is
>>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>> realize
>>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>> this
>>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>> before.
>>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>> where
>>> the oil splashes from.
>>>
>>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>> step up
>>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>> never
>>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>> I
>>> trust you guys more)
>>>
>>> Troy
>>>
>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>> > is
>>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>> > mention
>>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>> > the
>>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>> > would
>>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>> > to
>>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>> > Also
>>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>> > compatible
>>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>> > to
>>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>> >
>>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>> > tell
>>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>> > the
>>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>> >
>>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>> > gets
>>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>> > too
>>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>> > in
>>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>> > as
>>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>> >
>>> > Chris
>>> >
>>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>> >> the
>>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>> >> valvecover
>>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>> >> be
>>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>> >> myself. I
>>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>>> >>
>>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>> >> major
>>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>> >> the
>>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>> >> would
>>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>> >> perfect,
>>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>>> >>
>>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>>> >>
>>> >> Troy
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>
>

Jeff DeWitt

Troy wrote:
> Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
> somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
> driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
> I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
>
> I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
> it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
>
> Troy
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
>>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>>>too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>>
>>>I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>>>sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>>
>>>Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Troy wrote:
>>>
>>>>Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>>>I
>>>>just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>>>once a
>>>>week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>>
>>>>A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>>>all
>>>>the connections you mentioned
>>>>
>>>>I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>>>is
>>>>ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>>>realize
>>>>that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>>>this
>>>>kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>>>before.
>>>>I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>>>where
>>>>the oil splashes from.
>>>>
>>>>I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>>>step up
>>>>from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>>>thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>>>never
>>>>had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>>>I
>>>>trust you guys more)
>>>>
>>>>Troy
>>>>
>>>>"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>>>news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>>
>>>>>Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>>>>is
>>>>>bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>>>>camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>>>>mention
>>>>>valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>>>>the
>>>>>problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>>>>would
>>>>>suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>>>>to
>>>>>get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>>>>Also
>>>>>check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>>>>well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>>>>compatible
>>>>>carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>>>>to
>>>>>operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>>>>
>>>>>The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>>>>also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>>>>tell
>>>>>if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>>>>the
>>>>>suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>>>>noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>>>>
>>>>>I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>>>>gets
>>>>>hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>>>>heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>>>>will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>>>>too
>>>>>heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>>>>in
>>>>>a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>>>>as
>>>>>I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>>>>more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>>>>
>>>>>Chris
>>>>>
>>>>>"Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>>>>news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast .com...
>>>>>
>>>>>>When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>>>>>valvecover
>>>>>>area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>>>>>Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>>>>>idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>>>>>pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>>>>>valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>>>>>be
>>>>>>able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>>>>>myself. I
>>>>>>will buy tools if I need to.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>>>>>major
>>>>>>work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>>>>>would
>>>>>>do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>>>>>perfect,
>>>>>>although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>>>>>after it's all warmed up.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Oh and it's hot in florida
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Troy
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>
>
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? It would be interesting to know how
the oil pressure is doing.

Jeff DeWitt

Jeff DeWitt

Troy wrote:
> Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
> somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
> driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
> I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
>
> I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
> it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
>
> Troy
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
>>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>>>too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>>
>>>I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>>>sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>>
>>>Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Troy wrote:
>>>
>>>>Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>>>I
>>>>just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>>>once a
>>>>week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>>
>>>>A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>>>all
>>>>the connections you mentioned
>>>>
>>>>I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>>>is
>>>>ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>>>realize
>>>>that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>>>this
>>>>kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>>>before.
>>>>I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>>>where
>>>>the oil splashes from.
>>>>
>>>>I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>>>step up
>>>>from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>>>thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>>>never
>>>>had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>>>I
>>>>trust you guys more)
>>>>
>>>>Troy
>>>>
>>>>"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>>>news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>>
>>>>>Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>>>>is
>>>>>bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>>>>camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>>>>mention
>>>>>valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>>>>the
>>>>>problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>>>>would
>>>>>suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>>>>to
>>>>>get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>>>>Also
>>>>>check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>>>>well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>>>>compatible
>>>>>carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>>>>to
>>>>>operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>>>>
>>>>>The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>>>>also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>>>>tell
>>>>>if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>>>>the
>>>>>suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>>>>noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>>>>
>>>>>I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>>>>gets
>>>>>hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>>>>heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>>>>will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>>>>too
>>>>>heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>>>>in
>>>>>a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>>>>as
>>>>>I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>>>>more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>>>>
>>>>>Chris
>>>>>
>>>>>"Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>>>>news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast .com...
>>>>>
>>>>>>When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>>>>>valvecover
>>>>>>area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>>>>>Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>>>>>idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>>>>>pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>>>>>valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>>>>>be
>>>>>>able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>>>>>myself. I
>>>>>>will buy tools if I need to.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>>>>>major
>>>>>>work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>>>>>would
>>>>>>do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>>>>>perfect,
>>>>>>although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>>>>>after it's all warmed up.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Oh and it's hot in florida
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Troy
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>
>
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? It would be interesting to know how
the oil pressure is doing.

Jeff DeWitt