90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Troy wrote:
>
> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once a
> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>
> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check all
> the connections you mentioned
>
> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done this
> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that before.
> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even where
> the oil splashes from.
>
> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step up
> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've never
> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
> trust you guys more)
>
> Troy
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow is
> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I mention
> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound the
> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens to
> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it. Also
> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection compatible
> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs to
> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
> >
> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can tell
> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from the
> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
> >
> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using too
> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're in
> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue, as
> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the valvecover
> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may be
> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself. I
> >> will buy tools if I need to.
> >>
> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things would
> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's perfect,
> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
> >> after it's all warmed up.
> >>
> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
> >>
> >> Troy
> >>
> >
> >
too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Troy wrote:
>
> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once a
> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>
> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check all
> the connections you mentioned
>
> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done this
> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that before.
> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even where
> the oil splashes from.
>
> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step up
> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've never
> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
> trust you guys more)
>
> Troy
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow is
> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I mention
> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound the
> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens to
> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it. Also
> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection compatible
> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs to
> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
> >
> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can tell
> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from the
> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
> >
> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using too
> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're in
> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue, as
> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the valvecover
> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may be
> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself. I
> >> will buy tools if I need to.
> >>
> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things would
> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's perfect,
> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
> >> after it's all warmed up.
> >>
> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
> >>
> >> Troy
> >>
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Troy wrote:
>
> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once a
> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>
> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check all
> the connections you mentioned
>
> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done this
> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that before.
> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even where
> the oil splashes from.
>
> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step up
> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've never
> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
> trust you guys more)
>
> Troy
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow is
> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I mention
> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound the
> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens to
> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it. Also
> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection compatible
> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs to
> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
> >
> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can tell
> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from the
> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
> >
> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using too
> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're in
> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue, as
> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the valvecover
> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may be
> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself. I
> >> will buy tools if I need to.
> >>
> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things would
> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's perfect,
> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
> >> after it's all warmed up.
> >>
> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
> >>
> >> Troy
> >>
> >
> >
too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Troy wrote:
>
> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once a
> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>
> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check all
> the connections you mentioned
>
> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done this
> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that before.
> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even where
> the oil splashes from.
>
> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step up
> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've never
> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
> trust you guys more)
>
> Troy
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow is
> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I mention
> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound the
> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens to
> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it. Also
> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection compatible
> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs to
> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
> >
> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can tell
> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from the
> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
> >
> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using too
> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're in
> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue, as
> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the valvecover
> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may be
> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself. I
> >> will buy tools if I need to.
> >>
> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things would
> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's perfect,
> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
> >> after it's all warmed up.
> >>
> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
> >>
> >> Troy
> >>
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>
> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>
> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Troy wrote:
>>
>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once
>> a
>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>
>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>> all
>> the connections you mentioned
>>
>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>> this
>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>> before.
>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>> where
>> the oil splashes from.
>>
>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step
>> up
>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>> never
>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
>> trust you guys more)
>>
>> Troy
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>> > is
>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>> > mention
>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>> > the
>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>> > to
>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>> > Also
>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>> > compatible
>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>> > to
>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>> >
>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>> > tell
>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>> > the
>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>> >
>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>> > too
>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>> > in
>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>> > as
>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>> >> valvecover
>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>> >> be
>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself.
>> >> I
>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>> >>
>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>> >> would
>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>> >> perfect,
>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>> >>
>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>> >>
>> >> Troy
>> >>
>> >
>> >
engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>
> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>
> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Troy wrote:
>>
>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once
>> a
>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>
>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>> all
>> the connections you mentioned
>>
>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>> this
>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>> before.
>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>> where
>> the oil splashes from.
>>
>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step
>> up
>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>> never
>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
>> trust you guys more)
>>
>> Troy
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>> > is
>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>> > mention
>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>> > the
>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>> > to
>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>> > Also
>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>> > compatible
>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>> > to
>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>> >
>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>> > tell
>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>> > the
>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>> >
>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>> > too
>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>> > in
>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>> > as
>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>> >> valvecover
>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>> >> be
>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself.
>> >> I
>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>> >>
>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>> >> would
>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>> >> perfect,
>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>> >>
>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>> >>
>> >> Troy
>> >>
>> >
>> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>
> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>
> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Troy wrote:
>>
>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once
>> a
>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>
>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>> all
>> the connections you mentioned
>>
>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>> this
>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>> before.
>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>> where
>> the oil splashes from.
>>
>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step
>> up
>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>> never
>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
>> trust you guys more)
>>
>> Troy
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>> > is
>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>> > mention
>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>> > the
>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>> > to
>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>> > Also
>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>> > compatible
>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>> > to
>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>> >
>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>> > tell
>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>> > the
>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>> >
>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>> > too
>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>> > in
>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>> > as
>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>> >> valvecover
>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>> >> be
>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself.
>> >> I
>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>> >>
>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>> >> would
>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>> >> perfect,
>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>> >>
>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>> >>
>> >> Troy
>> >>
>> >
>> >
engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>
> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>
> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Troy wrote:
>>
>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once
>> a
>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>
>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>> all
>> the connections you mentioned
>>
>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>> this
>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>> before.
>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>> where
>> the oil splashes from.
>>
>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step
>> up
>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>> never
>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
>> trust you guys more)
>>
>> Troy
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>> > is
>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>> > mention
>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>> > the
>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>> > to
>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>> > Also
>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>> > compatible
>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>> > to
>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>> >
>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>> > tell
>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>> > the
>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>> >
>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>> > too
>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>> > in
>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>> > as
>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>> >> valvecover
>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>> >> be
>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself.
>> >> I
>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>> >>
>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>> >> would
>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>> >> perfect,
>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>> >>
>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>> >>
>> >> Troy
>> >>
>> >
>> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>
> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>
> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Troy wrote:
>>
>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once
>> a
>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>
>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>> all
>> the connections you mentioned
>>
>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>> this
>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>> before.
>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>> where
>> the oil splashes from.
>>
>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step
>> up
>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>> never
>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
>> trust you guys more)
>>
>> Troy
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>> > is
>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>> > mention
>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>> > the
>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>> > to
>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>> > Also
>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>> > compatible
>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>> > to
>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>> >
>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>> > tell
>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>> > the
>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>> >
>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>> > too
>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>> > in
>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>> > as
>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>> >> valvecover
>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>> >> be
>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself.
>> >> I
>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>> >>
>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>> >> would
>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>> >> perfect,
>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>> >>
>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>> >>
>> >> Troy
>> >>
>> >
>> >
engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>
> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>
> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Troy wrote:
>>
>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes I
>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out once
>> a
>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>
>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>> all
>> the connections you mentioned
>>
>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly is
>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I realize
>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>> this
>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>> before.
>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>> where
>> the oil splashes from.
>>
>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next step
>> up
>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>> never
>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic, I
>> trust you guys more)
>>
>> Troy
>>
>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>> > is
>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>> > mention
>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>> > the
>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I would
>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>> > to
>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>> > Also
>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>> > compatible
>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>> > to
>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>> >
>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>> > tell
>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>> > the
>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>> >
>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil gets
>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>> > too
>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>> > in
>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>> > as
>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and the
>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>> >> valvecover
>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>> >> be
>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it myself.
>> >> I
>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>> >>
>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any major
>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence the
>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>> >> would
>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>> >> perfect,
>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>> >>
>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>> >>
>> >> Troy
>> >>
>> >
>> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
Troy
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>
>> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>
>> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Troy wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>> I
>>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>> once a
>>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>
>>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>> all
>>> the connections you mentioned
>>>
>>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>> is
>>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>> realize
>>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>> this
>>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>> before.
>>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>> where
>>> the oil splashes from.
>>>
>>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>> step up
>>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>> never
>>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>> I
>>> trust you guys more)
>>>
>>> Troy
>>>
>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>> > is
>>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>> > mention
>>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>> > the
>>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>> > would
>>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>> > to
>>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>> > Also
>>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>> > compatible
>>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>> > to
>>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>> >
>>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>> > tell
>>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>> > the
>>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>> >
>>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>> > gets
>>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>> > too
>>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>> > in
>>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>> > as
>>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>> >
>>> > Chris
>>> >
>>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>> >> the
>>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>> >> valvecover
>>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>> >> be
>>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>> >> myself. I
>>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>>> >>
>>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>> >> major
>>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>> >> the
>>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>> >> would
>>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>> >> perfect,
>>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>>> >>
>>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>>> >>
>>> >> Troy
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>
>
somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
Troy
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>
>> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>
>> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Troy wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>> I
>>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>> once a
>>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>
>>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>> all
>>> the connections you mentioned
>>>
>>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>> is
>>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>> realize
>>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>> this
>>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>> before.
>>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>> where
>>> the oil splashes from.
>>>
>>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>> step up
>>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>> never
>>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>> I
>>> trust you guys more)
>>>
>>> Troy
>>>
>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>> > is
>>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>> > mention
>>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>> > the
>>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>> > would
>>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>> > to
>>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>> > Also
>>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>> > compatible
>>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>> > to
>>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>> >
>>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>> > tell
>>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>> > the
>>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>> >
>>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>> > gets
>>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>> > too
>>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>> > in
>>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>> > as
>>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>> >
>>> > Chris
>>> >
>>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>> >> the
>>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>> >> valvecover
>>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>> >> be
>>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>> >> myself. I
>>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>>> >>
>>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>> >> major
>>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>> >> the
>>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>> >> would
>>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>> >> perfect,
>>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>>> >>
>>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>>> >>
>>> >> Troy
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
Troy
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>
>> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>
>> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Troy wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>> I
>>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>> once a
>>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>
>>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>> all
>>> the connections you mentioned
>>>
>>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>> is
>>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>> realize
>>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>> this
>>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>> before.
>>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>> where
>>> the oil splashes from.
>>>
>>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>> step up
>>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>> never
>>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>> I
>>> trust you guys more)
>>>
>>> Troy
>>>
>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>> > is
>>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>> > mention
>>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>> > the
>>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>> > would
>>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>> > to
>>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>> > Also
>>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>> > compatible
>>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>> > to
>>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>> >
>>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>> > tell
>>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>> > the
>>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>> >
>>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>> > gets
>>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>> > too
>>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>> > in
>>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>> > as
>>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>> >
>>> > Chris
>>> >
>>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>> >> the
>>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>> >> valvecover
>>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>> >> be
>>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>> >> myself. I
>>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>>> >>
>>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>> >> major
>>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>> >> the
>>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>> >> would
>>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>> >> perfect,
>>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>>> >>
>>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>>> >>
>>> >> Troy
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>
>
somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
Troy
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>
>> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>
>> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Troy wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>> I
>>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>> once a
>>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>
>>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>> all
>>> the connections you mentioned
>>>
>>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>> is
>>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>> realize
>>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>> this
>>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>> before.
>>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>> where
>>> the oil splashes from.
>>>
>>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>> step up
>>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>> never
>>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>> I
>>> trust you guys more)
>>>
>>> Troy
>>>
>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>> > is
>>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>> > mention
>>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>> > the
>>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>> > would
>>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>> > to
>>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>> > Also
>>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>> > compatible
>>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>> > to
>>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>> >
>>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>> > tell
>>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>> > the
>>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>> >
>>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>> > gets
>>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>> > too
>>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>> > in
>>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>> > as
>>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>> >
>>> > Chris
>>> >
>>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>> >> the
>>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>> >> valvecover
>>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>> >> be
>>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>> >> myself. I
>>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>>> >>
>>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>> >> major
>>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>> >> the
>>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>> >> would
>>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>> >> perfect,
>>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>>> >>
>>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>>> >>
>>> >> Troy
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
Troy
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>
>> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>
>> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Troy wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>> I
>>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>> once a
>>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>
>>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>> all
>>> the connections you mentioned
>>>
>>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>> is
>>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>> realize
>>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>> this
>>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>> before.
>>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>> where
>>> the oil splashes from.
>>>
>>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>> step up
>>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>> never
>>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>> I
>>> trust you guys more)
>>>
>>> Troy
>>>
>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>> > is
>>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>> > mention
>>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>> > the
>>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>> > would
>>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>> > to
>>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>> > Also
>>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>> > compatible
>>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>> > to
>>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>> >
>>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>> > tell
>>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>> > the
>>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>> >
>>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>> > gets
>>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>> > too
>>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>> > in
>>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>> > as
>>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>> >
>>> > Chris
>>> >
>>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>> >> the
>>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>> >> valvecover
>>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>> >> be
>>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>> >> myself. I
>>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>>> >>
>>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>> >> major
>>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>> >> the
>>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>> >> would
>>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>> >> perfect,
>>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>>> >>
>>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>>> >>
>>> >> Troy
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>
>
somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
Troy
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>> You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>> too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>
>> I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>> sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>
>> Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Troy wrote:
>>>
>>> Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>> I
>>> just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>> once a
>>> week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>
>>> A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>> all
>>> the connections you mentioned
>>>
>>> I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>> is
>>> ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>> realize
>>> that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>> this
>>> kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>> before.
>>> I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>> where
>>> the oil splashes from.
>>>
>>> I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>> step up
>>> from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>> thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>> never
>>> had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>> I
>>> trust you guys more)
>>>
>>> Troy
>>>
>>> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>> news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>> > Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>> > is
>>> > bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>> > camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>> > mention
>>> > valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>> > the
>>> > problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>> > would
>>> > suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>> > to
>>> > get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>> > Also
>>> > check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>> > well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>> > compatible
>>> > carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>> > to
>>> > operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>> >
>>> > The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>> > also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>> > tell
>>> > if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>> > the
>>> > suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>> > noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>> >
>>> > I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>> > gets
>>> > hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>> > heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>> > will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>> > too
>>> > heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>> > in
>>> > a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>> > as
>>> > I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>> > more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>> >
>>> > Chris
>>> >
>>> > "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>> > news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> >> When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>> >> the
>>> >> oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>> >> valvecover
>>> >> area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>> >> Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>> >> idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>> >> pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>> >> valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>> >> be
>>> >> able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>> >> myself. I
>>> >> will buy tools if I need to.
>>> >>
>>> >> The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>> >> major
>>> >> work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>> >> the
>>> >> ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>> >> would
>>> >> do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>> >> perfect,
>>> >> although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>> >> after it's all warmed up.
>>> >>
>>> >> Oh and it's hot in florida
>>> >>
>>> >> Troy
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
Troy wrote:
> Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
> somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
> driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
> I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
>
> I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
> it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
>
> Troy
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
>>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>>>too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>>
>>>I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>>>sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>>
>>>Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Troy wrote:
>>>
>>>>Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>>>I
>>>>just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>>>once a
>>>>week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>>
>>>>A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>>>all
>>>>the connections you mentioned
>>>>
>>>>I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>>>is
>>>>ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>>>realize
>>>>that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>>>this
>>>>kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>>>before.
>>>>I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>>>where
>>>>the oil splashes from.
>>>>
>>>>I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>>>step up
>>>>from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>>>thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>>>never
>>>>had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>>>I
>>>>trust you guys more)
>>>>
>>>>Troy
>>>>
>>>>"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>>>news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>>
>>>>>Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>>>>is
>>>>>bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>>>>camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>>>>mention
>>>>>valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>>>>the
>>>>>problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>>>>would
>>>>>suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>>>>to
>>>>>get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>>>>Also
>>>>>check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>>>>well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>>>>compatible
>>>>>carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>>>>to
>>>>>operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>>>>
>>>>>The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>>>>also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>>>>tell
>>>>>if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>>>>the
>>>>>suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>>>>noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>>>>
>>>>>I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>>>>gets
>>>>>hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>>>>heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>>>>will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>>>>too
>>>>>heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>>>>in
>>>>>a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>>>>as
>>>>>I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>>>>more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>>>>
>>>>>Chris
>>>>>
>>>>>"Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>>>>news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast .com...
>>>>>
>>>>>>When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>>>>>valvecover
>>>>>>area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>>>>>Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>>>>>idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>>>>>pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>>>>>valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>>>>>be
>>>>>>able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>>>>>myself. I
>>>>>>will buy tools if I need to.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>>>>>major
>>>>>>work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>>>>>would
>>>>>>do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>>>>>perfect,
>>>>>>although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>>>>>after it's all warmed up.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Oh and it's hot in florida
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Troy
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>
>
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? It would be interesting to know how
the oil pressure is doing.
Jeff DeWitt
> Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
> somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
> driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
> I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
>
> I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
> it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
>
> Troy
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
>>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>>>too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>>
>>>I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>>>sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>>
>>>Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Troy wrote:
>>>
>>>>Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>>>I
>>>>just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>>>once a
>>>>week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>>
>>>>A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>>>all
>>>>the connections you mentioned
>>>>
>>>>I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>>>is
>>>>ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>>>realize
>>>>that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>>>this
>>>>kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>>>before.
>>>>I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>>>where
>>>>the oil splashes from.
>>>>
>>>>I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>>>step up
>>>>from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>>>thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>>>never
>>>>had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>>>I
>>>>trust you guys more)
>>>>
>>>>Troy
>>>>
>>>>"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>>>news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>>
>>>>>Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>>>>is
>>>>>bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>>>>camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>>>>mention
>>>>>valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>>>>the
>>>>>problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>>>>would
>>>>>suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>>>>to
>>>>>get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>>>>Also
>>>>>check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>>>>well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>>>>compatible
>>>>>carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>>>>to
>>>>>operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>>>>
>>>>>The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>>>>also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>>>>tell
>>>>>if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>>>>the
>>>>>suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>>>>noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>>>>
>>>>>I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>>>>gets
>>>>>hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>>>>heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>>>>will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>>>>too
>>>>>heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>>>>in
>>>>>a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>>>>as
>>>>>I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>>>>more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>>>>
>>>>>Chris
>>>>>
>>>>>"Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>>>>news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast .com...
>>>>>
>>>>>>When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>>>>>valvecover
>>>>>>area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>>>>>Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>>>>>idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>>>>>pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>>>>>valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>>>>>be
>>>>>>able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>>>>>myself. I
>>>>>>will buy tools if I need to.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>>>>>major
>>>>>>work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>>>>>would
>>>>>>do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>>>>>perfect,
>>>>>>although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>>>>>after it's all warmed up.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Oh and it's hot in florida
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Troy
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>
>
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? It would be interesting to know how
the oil pressure is doing.
Jeff DeWitt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 XJ tapping/ticking from valve cover
Troy wrote:
> Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
> somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
> driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
> I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
>
> I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
> it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
>
> Troy
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
>>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>>>too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>>
>>>I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>>>sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>>
>>>Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Troy wrote:
>>>
>>>>Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>>>I
>>>>just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>>>once a
>>>>week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>>
>>>>A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>>>all
>>>>the connections you mentioned
>>>>
>>>>I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>>>is
>>>>ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>>>realize
>>>>that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>>>this
>>>>kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>>>before.
>>>>I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>>>where
>>>>the oil splashes from.
>>>>
>>>>I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>>>step up
>>>>from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>>>thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>>>never
>>>>had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>>>I
>>>>trust you guys more)
>>>>
>>>>Troy
>>>>
>>>>"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>>>news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>>
>>>>>Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>>>>is
>>>>>bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>>>>camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>>>>mention
>>>>>valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>>>>the
>>>>>problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>>>>would
>>>>>suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>>>>to
>>>>>get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>>>>Also
>>>>>check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>>>>well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>>>>compatible
>>>>>carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>>>>to
>>>>>operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>>>>
>>>>>The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>>>>also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>>>>tell
>>>>>if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>>>>the
>>>>>suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>>>>noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>>>>
>>>>>I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>>>>gets
>>>>>hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>>>>heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>>>>will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>>>>too
>>>>>heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>>>>in
>>>>>a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>>>>as
>>>>>I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>>>>more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>>>>
>>>>>Chris
>>>>>
>>>>>"Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>>>>news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast .com...
>>>>>
>>>>>>When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>>>>>valvecover
>>>>>>area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>>>>>Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>>>>>idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>>>>>pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>>>>>valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>>>>>be
>>>>>>able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>>>>>myself. I
>>>>>>will buy tools if I need to.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>>>>>major
>>>>>>work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>>>>>would
>>>>>>do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>>>>>perfect,
>>>>>>although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>>>>>after it's all warmed up.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Oh and it's hot in florida
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Troy
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>
>
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? It would be interesting to know how
the oil pressure is doing.
Jeff DeWitt
> Yes the ticking is all the time, its just when its hot and idling its
> somewhat loud, enough to where people ask me why it's ticking, and as I am
> driving the oil pressure raises a bit, but if I stick my head out the window
> I can still hear the ticking, but faster and not as loud.
>
> I will try to get the idling problem sorted out first, maybe its so low that
> it isn't lubing up whatever is making the ticking sound to begin with.
>
> Troy
>
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:KDsvg.3$D%4.0@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
>>I was under the impression that the ticking happened all the time when the
>>engine was hot, not just at idle. Maybe I assumed something I shouldn't
>>have, but if the ticking is just at idle, then Mike is right, you probably
>>don't need to open the engine up. Definitely fix the idle problem first.
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:44BE3474.392AD8FF@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You get ticking because you have no oil pressure because your idle is
>>>too low. Likely no need to open anything up.
>>>
>>>I find a spray electronic contact cleaner clean on all the plugs and
>>>sockets, especially around the throttle body does them wonders.
>>>
>>>Same for cleaning out that idle air passage.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>Troy wrote:
>>>
>>>>Yeah it gets idling so low after getting fully warmed up that sometimes
>>>>I
>>>>just knock it into neutral so it doesn't stall out... it stalled out
>>>>once a
>>>>week ago but hasn't since, but I haven't given it the chance.
>>>>
>>>>A few connections were cruddy when I got the thing, I will clean/check
>>>>all
>>>>the connections you mentioned
>>>>
>>>>I've never done this, but to find out which lifter or whatever exactly
>>>>is
>>>>ticking, am I able to run the engine with the valve cover off? I
>>>>realize
>>>>that must sound like a stupid question to a mechanic type who has done
>>>>this
>>>>kind of work before, but I don't know because I've never done that
>>>>before.
>>>>I don't know if the oil splash is strong enough to shoot out, or even
>>>>where
>>>>the oil splashes from.
>>>>
>>>>I'll save the thicker oil for last maybe, but what would be the next
>>>>step up
>>>>from 10w30? I've seen 20w50 oil in the store before, but I dont know if
>>>>thats the next step up. All the vehicles I've owned run 10w30 so I've
>>>>never
>>>>had to use thicker but it was suggested by a neighbor. (not a mechanic,
>>>>I
>>>>trust you guys more)
>>>>
>>>>Troy
>>>>
>>>>"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
>>>>news:mIavg.2105$252.1001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>>>
>>>>>Fist thing that is wrong is the idle speed. Idling an engine that slow
>>>>>is
>>>>>bad. Many engine components rely on oil splash for lubrication. The
>>>>>camshaft, timing chain, and valve springs are the most critical. I
>>>>>mention
>>>>>valve springs because they need oil splash for cooling. You compound
>>>>>the
>>>>>problem if you do indeed have a low pressure situation at idle. I
>>>>>would
>>>>>suspect that the Idle Air Control valve may be the culprit. These tens
>>>>>to
>>>>>get carboned up over time. It is easy to pull the valve and clean it.
>>>>>Also
>>>>>check the electrical connections to the valve, they may be corroded as
>>>>>well. To clean the valve, you just need a can of fuel injection
>>>>>compatible
>>>>>carb cleaner. there is a plunger that controls the valve, and it needs
>>>>>to
>>>>>operate freely for the valve to work properly.
>>>>>
>>>>>The ticking is more than likely something in the valvetrain, but could
>>>>>also be a piston pin, or less probably a rod bearing. Usually you can
>>>>>tell
>>>>>if it is a piston pin by starting the engine with the plug wire from
>>>>>the
>>>>>suspect cylinder disconnected. If it is a pin, the noise with decrease
>>>>>noticeably without the plugwire hooked up.
>>>>>
>>>>>I would most likely suspect a lifter is bleeding down when the oil
>>>>>gets
>>>>>hot. Not much to do about it other than replace the lifter(s). Using
>>>>>heavier oil may patch the problem for a while, but more than likely it
>>>>>will resurface later as things get worse. There are downfalls to using
>>>>>too
>>>>>heavy an oil, but going up one range should be fine considering you're
>>>>>in
>>>>>a hot climate. First thing you need to do is fix the idle speed issue,
>>>>>as
>>>>>I would imagine using heavier oil and idling that slow will cause even
>>>>>more problems related to the parts needing splash oil for lubricant.
>>>>>
>>>>>Chris
>>>>>
>>>>>"Troy" <@ .> wrote in message
>>>>>news:7qedneilz4m_ryDZnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@comcast .com...
>>>>>
>>>>>>When I start this thing its quiet, but after driving it around and
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>oil I suspect gets warmed up there's a ticking coming from the
>>>>>>valvecover
>>>>>>area, maybe under it. I can't feel the ticking but just hear it.
>>>>>>Usually when the oil gets hot and I notice the pressure drops while
>>>>>>idling. I know the oil is thinning when it gets hot so maybe the oil
>>>>>>pump could use replacing? Or should I do some work on the
>>>>>>valve/lifters/whatever? I have tools and if its something that I may
>>>>>>be
>>>>>>able to tackle if I get the right manual I would like to do it
>>>>>>myself. I
>>>>>>will buy tools if I need to.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The engine has 150,000 miles on it, and I dont think its had any
>>>>>>major
>>>>>>work done to it. Could I maybe put a thicker oil in it to silence
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>ticking? Could someone out there let me know what all these things
>>>>>>would
>>>>>>do and suggest others I might try? Other than the ticking it's
>>>>>>perfect,
>>>>>>although it tends to idle around the 250 rpm mark when at a stoplight
>>>>>>after it's all warmed up.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Oh and it's hot in florida
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Troy
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>
>
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? It would be interesting to know how
the oil pressure is doing.
Jeff DeWitt