I found a whack of them on eBay for $27 US ($30 Canadian), but nothing in
Canada. If anyone is aware of any mail order Jeep places in Canada, I'm all
ears (and eyes, I guess).

Clint

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-jEhVvi3wVvbO@anon.none.net...
>I bought one a couple of months back from a local junkyard - they had
> a whole bin of them - for about $30 and that included the cap. I got
> the same story at the dealer you did - ouch! Until I found this
> place, I was ready to make my own out of sheet copper with a regular
> radiator cap and a sight glass I had laying around but I don't
> recommend this unles you've done a bit of sheet work.
>
> Before you try mending the bottle, remember that it IS under pressure
> same as the radiator. Assuming 15 psi, it is really hard to get a
> decent repair in that polyethelene bottle and that still leaves the
> cap to fit. The last bottle I replaced had problems around the neck
> on top and would not seal with a new cap.
>
> That crack would account for most all the overheating - same as a bad
> radiator cap.
>
> Have you tried the mail order houses for a bottle? I've seen them
> somewhere - surely sombody has a few sitting around.
>
> On Thu, 21 Sep 2006 01:08:27 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote:
>
>> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap.
>> They
>> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The
>> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think;
>> I've
>> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in
>> Canada
>> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the
>> cap,
>> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them
>> for
>> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can
>> get
>> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular.
>>
>> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to
>> assist
>> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that
>> might
>> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's
>> and
>> Hayne's guide, I think. :)
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
>> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no...
>> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating
>> > my
>> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like
>> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc.
>> >
>> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively
>> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the
>> > Jeep
>> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be
>> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000
>> > rpm,
>> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything.
>> >
>> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not
>> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that?
>> >
>> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past.
>> >
>> > Clint
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea

 

I found a whack of them on eBay for $27 US ($30 Canadian), but nothing in
Canada. If anyone is aware of any mail order Jeep places in Canada, I'm all
ears (and eyes, I guess).

Clint

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-jEhVvi3wVvbO@anon.none.net...
>I bought one a couple of months back from a local junkyard - they had
> a whole bin of them - for about $30 and that included the cap. I got
> the same story at the dealer you did - ouch! Until I found this
> place, I was ready to make my own out of sheet copper with a regular
> radiator cap and a sight glass I had laying around but I don't
> recommend this unles you've done a bit of sheet work.
>
> Before you try mending the bottle, remember that it IS under pressure
> same as the radiator. Assuming 15 psi, it is really hard to get a
> decent repair in that polyethelene bottle and that still leaves the
> cap to fit. The last bottle I replaced had problems around the neck
> on top and would not seal with a new cap.
>
> That crack would account for most all the overheating - same as a bad
> radiator cap.
>
> Have you tried the mail order houses for a bottle? I've seen them
> somewhere - surely sombody has a few sitting around.
>
> On Thu, 21 Sep 2006 01:08:27 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote:
>
>> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap.
>> They
>> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The
>> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think;
>> I've
>> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in
>> Canada
>> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the
>> cap,
>> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them
>> for
>> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can
>> get
>> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular.
>>
>> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to
>> assist
>> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that
>> might
>> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's
>> and
>> Hayne's guide, I think. :)
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
>> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no...
>> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating
>> > my
>> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like
>> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc.
>> >
>> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively
>> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the
>> > Jeep
>> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be
>> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000
>> > rpm,
>> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything.
>> >
>> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not
>> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that?
>> >
>> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past.
>> >
>> > Clint
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea

 

The cracked bottle lowers the pressure in the system. This will
radically change the temperature at which the coolant starts to boil, so
hot boiling spots can appear inside the head which raises the level of
the coolant in the bottle to the point of overflowing out the crack or
blowing the seal on the cap from too much pressure now caused due to the
boil.

The 'flow' you see in the bottle is caused by this boiling over. It is
'not' normal to see much flow in that bottle. The bottle isn't part of
the circulation path of the fluid, it just takes up the expansion of the
fluid that happens every time the engine heats up.

Just FYI, when I replace waterpumps I don't mess with the fan belt
unless I plan on changing it. Getting the PS pump loose and unadjusted
is a pain in the butt. Tightening the belt back up correctly is a worse
pain in the butt.....

The pump will unbolt and pull out with the fan belt in place. Then when
the new pump goes in, the belt goes back on exactly the same as it was
before.

Try Canadian Tire or NAPA for the pump. Their parts last as long as the
$tealership's parts it would seem.

Mike

Clint wrote:
>
> No, it's happened before. The bottle is cracked, as well, apparently. The
> bottle was my first choice in replacing; I just figured something else was
> wrong too, as I doubted the low flow would have been caused by a slightly
> leaking bottle.
>
> And I suspected the water pump was leaking as well (drips under vehicle
> overnight), so I'm not entirely surprised by that.
>
> Any suggestions for Jeep parts up here in Canada? I phoned a couple of
> local places and got a couple prices on the water pump, and they weren't too
> ugly. At least I'm a little more informed about what I'm getting into,
> anyway. And I found at least one US source on eBay for the tank (around
> $30), but it looks like they'll only ship UPS, which sucks up here to
> Canada. The one parts place I talked to suggested a wrecker, but with the
> issues I've heard with the tanks, it's not something that I really want to
> replace 3 or 4 times trying to get one that's not cracked or anything.
>
> I did find this link on the Net, WRT replacing the pump, if anyone else is
> interested:
> http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp
> Looks pretty straightforward on there, with the possible exception of the
> 4th bolt holding things in place. Of course, I'm expecting my mileage to
> differ. I'll have to weigh the labour charges the garage gives vs. the
> money I can make doing some contract work...
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4511FB04.689F9B8E@sympatico.ca...
> >I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it
> > is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley.
> >
> > If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well
> > get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old.....
> >
> > If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect
> > the old cap just wasn't tight enough.
> >
> > You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time
> > seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap
> > washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a
> > one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it
> > actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top
> > of the cap will have stains.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Clint wrote:
> >>
> >> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap.
> >> They
> >> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The
> >> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think;
> >> I've
> >> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in
> >> Canada
> >> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the
> >> cap,
> >> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them
> >> for
> >> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can
> >> get
> >> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular.
> >>
> >> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to
> >> assist
> >> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that
> >> might
> >> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's
> >> and
> >> Hayne's guide, I think. :)
> >>
> >> Clint
> >>
> >> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
> >> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no...
> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating
> >> > my
> >> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like
> >> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc.
> >> >
> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively
> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the
> >> > Jeep
> >> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be
> >> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000
> >> > rpm,
> >> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything.
> >> >
> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not
> >> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past.
> >> >
> >> > Clint
> >> >

 

The cracked bottle lowers the pressure in the system. This will
radically change the temperature at which the coolant starts to boil, so
hot boiling spots can appear inside the head which raises the level of
the coolant in the bottle to the point of overflowing out the crack or
blowing the seal on the cap from too much pressure now caused due to the
boil.

The 'flow' you see in the bottle is caused by this boiling over. It is
'not' normal to see much flow in that bottle. The bottle isn't part of
the circulation path of the fluid, it just takes up the expansion of the
fluid that happens every time the engine heats up.

Just FYI, when I replace waterpumps I don't mess with the fan belt
unless I plan on changing it. Getting the PS pump loose and unadjusted
is a pain in the butt. Tightening the belt back up correctly is a worse
pain in the butt.....

The pump will unbolt and pull out with the fan belt in place. Then when
the new pump goes in, the belt goes back on exactly the same as it was
before.

Try Canadian Tire or NAPA for the pump. Their parts last as long as the
$tealership's parts it would seem.

Mike

Clint wrote:
>
> No, it's happened before. The bottle is cracked, as well, apparently. The
> bottle was my first choice in replacing; I just figured something else was
> wrong too, as I doubted the low flow would have been caused by a slightly
> leaking bottle.
>
> And I suspected the water pump was leaking as well (drips under vehicle
> overnight), so I'm not entirely surprised by that.
>
> Any suggestions for Jeep parts up here in Canada? I phoned a couple of
> local places and got a couple prices on the water pump, and they weren't too
> ugly. At least I'm a little more informed about what I'm getting into,
> anyway. And I found at least one US source on eBay for the tank (around
> $30), but it looks like they'll only ship UPS, which sucks up here to
> Canada. The one parts place I talked to suggested a wrecker, but with the
> issues I've heard with the tanks, it's not something that I really want to
> replace 3 or 4 times trying to get one that's not cracked or anything.
>
> I did find this link on the Net, WRT replacing the pump, if anyone else is
> interested:
> http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp
> Looks pretty straightforward on there, with the possible exception of the
> 4th bolt holding things in place. Of course, I'm expecting my mileage to
> differ. I'll have to weigh the labour charges the garage gives vs. the
> money I can make doing some contract work...
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4511FB04.689F9B8E@sympatico.ca...
> >I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it
> > is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley.
> >
> > If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well
> > get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old.....
> >
> > If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect
> > the old cap just wasn't tight enough.
> >
> > You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time
> > seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap
> > washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a
> > one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it
> > actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top
> > of the cap will have stains.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Clint wrote:
> >>
> >> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap.
> >> They
> >> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The
> >> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think;
> >> I've
> >> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in
> >> Canada
> >> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the
> >> cap,
> >> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them
> >> for
> >> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can
> >> get
> >> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular.
> >>
> >> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to
> >> assist
> >> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that
> >> might
> >> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's
> >> and
> >> Hayne's guide, I think. :)
> >>
> >> Clint
> >>
> >> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
> >> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no...
> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating
> >> > my
> >> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like
> >> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc.
> >> >
> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively
> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the
> >> > Jeep
> >> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be
> >> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000
> >> > rpm,
> >> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything.
> >> >
> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not
> >> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past.
> >> >
> >> > Clint
> >> >

 

The cracked bottle lowers the pressure in the system. This will
radically change the temperature at which the coolant starts to boil, so
hot boiling spots can appear inside the head which raises the level of
the coolant in the bottle to the point of overflowing out the crack or
blowing the seal on the cap from too much pressure now caused due to the
boil.

The 'flow' you see in the bottle is caused by this boiling over. It is
'not' normal to see much flow in that bottle. The bottle isn't part of
the circulation path of the fluid, it just takes up the expansion of the
fluid that happens every time the engine heats up.

Just FYI, when I replace waterpumps I don't mess with the fan belt
unless I plan on changing it. Getting the PS pump loose and unadjusted
is a pain in the butt. Tightening the belt back up correctly is a worse
pain in the butt.....

The pump will unbolt and pull out with the fan belt in place. Then when
the new pump goes in, the belt goes back on exactly the same as it was
before.

Try Canadian Tire or NAPA for the pump. Their parts last as long as the
$tealership's parts it would seem.

Mike

Clint wrote:
>
> No, it's happened before. The bottle is cracked, as well, apparently. The
> bottle was my first choice in replacing; I just figured something else was
> wrong too, as I doubted the low flow would have been caused by a slightly
> leaking bottle.
>
> And I suspected the water pump was leaking as well (drips under vehicle
> overnight), so I'm not entirely surprised by that.
>
> Any suggestions for Jeep parts up here in Canada? I phoned a couple of
> local places and got a couple prices on the water pump, and they weren't too
> ugly. At least I'm a little more informed about what I'm getting into,
> anyway. And I found at least one US source on eBay for the tank (around
> $30), but it looks like they'll only ship UPS, which sucks up here to
> Canada. The one parts place I talked to suggested a wrecker, but with the
> issues I've heard with the tanks, it's not something that I really want to
> replace 3 or 4 times trying to get one that's not cracked or anything.
>
> I did find this link on the Net, WRT replacing the pump, if anyone else is
> interested:
> http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp
> Looks pretty straightforward on there, with the possible exception of the
> 4th bolt holding things in place. Of course, I'm expecting my mileage to
> differ. I'll have to weigh the labour charges the garage gives vs. the
> money I can make doing some contract work...
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4511FB04.689F9B8E@sympatico.ca...
> >I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it
> > is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley.
> >
> > If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well
> > get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old.....
> >
> > If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect
> > the old cap just wasn't tight enough.
> >
> > You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time
> > seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap
> > washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a
> > one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it
> > actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top
> > of the cap will have stains.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Clint wrote:
> >>
> >> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap.
> >> They
> >> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The
> >> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think;
> >> I've
> >> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in
> >> Canada
> >> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the
> >> cap,
> >> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them
> >> for
> >> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can
> >> get
> >> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular.
> >>
> >> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to
> >> assist
> >> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that
> >> might
> >> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's
> >> and
> >> Hayne's guide, I think. :)
> >>
> >> Clint
> >>
> >> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
> >> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no...
> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating
> >> > my
> >> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like
> >> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc.
> >> >
> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively
> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the
> >> > Jeep
> >> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be
> >> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000
> >> > rpm,
> >> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything.
> >> >
> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not
> >> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past.
> >> >
> >> > Clint
> >> >

 

So I phoned around to a few of stealerships this weekend, and found one that
had the bottle and cap in stock. $100 in parts ($88 for the bottle, $12 for
the cap), 15 minutes in labour, and my Jeep seems back in business. Ran
around town a bit on Saturday, then to and from work again today.

On thing I did notice was more fluctuation in the temp gauge that seems
"normal". It would slowly go between 1/4 to 1/2; never getting over 1/2.
Is that a sign of anything bad?

In any case, thought I'd post back here, and let the people in the thread
know the scoop. Thanks for all your help.

Clint

"Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no...
> So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like
> that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc.
>
> So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively
> inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep
> is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be
> trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm,
> it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything.
>
> Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not
> locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that?
>
> Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past.
>
> Clint
>

 

So I phoned around to a few of stealerships this weekend, and found one that
had the bottle and cap in stock. $100 in parts ($88 for the bottle, $12 for
the cap), 15 minutes in labour, and my Jeep seems back in business. Ran
around town a bit on Saturday, then to and from work again today.

On thing I did notice was more fluctuation in the temp gauge that seems
"normal". It would slowly go between 1/4 to 1/2; never getting over 1/2.
Is that a sign of anything bad?

In any case, thought I'd post back here, and let the people in the thread
know the scoop. Thanks for all your help.

Clint

"Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no...
> So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like
> that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc.
>
> So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively
> inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep
> is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be
> trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm,
> it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything.
>
> Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not
> locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that?
>
> Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past.
>
> Clint
>

 

So I phoned around to a few of stealerships this weekend, and found one that
had the bottle and cap in stock. $100 in parts ($88 for the bottle, $12 for
the cap), 15 minutes in labour, and my Jeep seems back in business. Ran
around town a bit on Saturday, then to and from work again today.

On thing I did notice was more fluctuation in the temp gauge that seems
"normal". It would slowly go between 1/4 to 1/2; never getting over 1/2.
Is that a sign of anything bad?

In any case, thought I'd post back here, and let the people in the thread
know the scoop. Thanks for all your help.

Clint

"Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no...
> So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like
> that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc.
>
> So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively
> inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep
> is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be
> trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm,
> it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything.
>
> Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not
> locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that?
>
> Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past.
>
> Clint
>

 

It can take several days to work the air pockets out of the system, trapped
air can make the temperature sensor act odd.

Did you rinse off the old antifreeze off the engine compartment?

What coolant did you use?


"Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
news:9YZRg.36288$R63.31340@pd7urf1no...
> So I phoned around to a few of stealerships this weekend, and found one
> that had the bottle and cap in stock. $100 in parts ($88 for the bottle,
> $12 for the cap), 15 minutes in labour, and my Jeep seems back in
> business. Ran around town a bit on Saturday, then to and from work again
> today.
>
> On thing I did notice was more fluctuation in the temp gauge that seems
> "normal". It would slowly go between 1/4 to 1/2; never getting over 1/2.
> Is that a sign of anything bad?
>
> In any case, thought I'd post back here, and let the people in the thread
> know the scoop. Thanks for all your help.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no...
>> So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like
>> that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc.
>>
>> So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively
>> inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep
>> is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be
>> trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000
>> rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything.
>>
>> Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not
>> locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that?
>>
>> Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>
>

 

It can take several days to work the air pockets out of the system, trapped
air can make the temperature sensor act odd.

Did you rinse off the old antifreeze off the engine compartment?

What coolant did you use?


"Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
news:9YZRg.36288$R63.31340@pd7urf1no...
> So I phoned around to a few of stealerships this weekend, and found one
> that had the bottle and cap in stock. $100 in parts ($88 for the bottle,
> $12 for the cap), 15 minutes in labour, and my Jeep seems back in
> business. Ran around town a bit on Saturday, then to and from work again
> today.
>
> On thing I did notice was more fluctuation in the temp gauge that seems
> "normal". It would slowly go between 1/4 to 1/2; never getting over 1/2.
> Is that a sign of anything bad?
>
> In any case, thought I'd post back here, and let the people in the thread
> know the scoop. Thanks for all your help.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message
> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no...
>> So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like
>> that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc.
>>
>> So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively
>> inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep
>> is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be
>> trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000
>> rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything.
>>
>> Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not
>> locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that?
>>
>> Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>
>