Will Honea

The MJ has the foot brake - unfortunately so, as I much prefer the
hand style. The resistor pack is clean, but my drop is all ground
lead to firewall (or battery) so corrosion in the hot side wouldn't
produce the float I'm seeing. It's a classic ground issue - I'll find
it eventually.

On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 19:38:15 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> On some of the YJ's the inside ground tag is on the emergency brake
> bracket, but that is with the foot powered e-brake. I figure the
> Comanche has the hand brake right?
>
> I have also seen bad corrosion on the resistor pack plug. That is way
> down under the heater box on the passenger side.
>
> Mike
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 15:36:12 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
> > > at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
> > > firewall above the gas pedal.
> >
> > I've been looking for that inside sucker and still haven't found it -
> > it's gotta be there somewhere! I even had the whole dash off a while
> > back and still didn't see it - must be under the soundproofing
> > somewhere. I'd sure like to finally get my hands on it, tho - when I
> > have the blower on High, I get a 3 volt drop between the battery and
> > the fan motor ground and a good 2 volt drop in the instrument panel
> > ground. That plays hell with the radio so I can imagine that it does
> > the computer no good either. It also limits the output of the heater
> > to about what I would get in the medium speed position. I've got a
> > max 150 mv drop at the firewall metal and the stud where the strap
> > from the engine connects, so that part is good. About what you would
> > expect - the easy to reach point is just fine...
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Will Honea

The MJ has the foot brake - unfortunately so, as I much prefer the
hand style. The resistor pack is clean, but my drop is all ground
lead to firewall (or battery) so corrosion in the hot side wouldn't
produce the float I'm seeing. It's a classic ground issue - I'll find
it eventually.

On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 19:38:15 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> On some of the YJ's the inside ground tag is on the emergency brake
> bracket, but that is with the foot powered e-brake. I figure the
> Comanche has the hand brake right?
>
> I have also seen bad corrosion on the resistor pack plug. That is way
> down under the heater box on the passenger side.
>
> Mike
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 15:36:12 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
> > > at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
> > > firewall above the gas pedal.
> >
> > I've been looking for that inside sucker and still haven't found it -
> > it's gotta be there somewhere! I even had the whole dash off a while
> > back and still didn't see it - must be under the soundproofing
> > somewhere. I'd sure like to finally get my hands on it, tho - when I
> > have the blower on High, I get a 3 volt drop between the battery and
> > the fan motor ground and a good 2 volt drop in the instrument panel
> > ground. That plays hell with the radio so I can imagine that it does
> > the computer no good either. It also limits the output of the heater
> > to about what I would get in the medium speed position. I've got a
> > max 150 mv drop at the firewall metal and the stud where the strap
> > from the engine connects, so that part is good. About what you would
> > expect - the easy to reach point is just fine...
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Tom Dobrowolsky

Hi Ed,

Mine is an 87 Comanche.

I had the same thing happen to me...drove out to get gas, ironically, and
when I stopped at a light afterwards, the truck died. Restarted fine, died
two seconds later...repeat. It ended up being the ballast resistor. It's
a white, elongated kinda-trapezoidal thing bolted to the driver-side
fender. There are two wires (orange w/blk on my truck) running to it.

If you bypass the ballast resistor, connecting the two wires directly,
and switch the key to ON, the fuel pump will run forever instead of cutting
out when it builds up the correct system pressure. Probably not good to
run like this but it at least verifies that all is working properly and
that it is the ballast resistor.

This happened a while ago, so I can't remember the exact details. There
is one pin in the diagnostic connector which indicates fuel pump power.
You can connect a 12 volt test lamp to that pin, grounding it somewhere
convenient. With a bad ballast resistor, you switch the key to ON, the
lamp goes on then cuts out after a few seconds, if I remember
correctly. With a good ballast resistor, the lamp should stay lit as
long as power is on.

It's only, like, $11 or something for a new one, so you should try that.


Cheers,
/tom


loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) writes:

>This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
>installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
>am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
>cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
>sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
>injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
>the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
>before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
>something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed

--
( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( * ) ) ) there is no antelope ) )
|
Rev. Tom Mary Dobrowolsky | The Information School
http://students.washington.edu/agent /-\ University of Washington

Tom Dobrowolsky

Hi Ed,

Mine is an 87 Comanche.

I had the same thing happen to me...drove out to get gas, ironically, and
when I stopped at a light afterwards, the truck died. Restarted fine, died
two seconds later...repeat. It ended up being the ballast resistor. It's
a white, elongated kinda-trapezoidal thing bolted to the driver-side
fender. There are two wires (orange w/blk on my truck) running to it.

If you bypass the ballast resistor, connecting the two wires directly,
and switch the key to ON, the fuel pump will run forever instead of cutting
out when it builds up the correct system pressure. Probably not good to
run like this but it at least verifies that all is working properly and
that it is the ballast resistor.

This happened a while ago, so I can't remember the exact details. There
is one pin in the diagnostic connector which indicates fuel pump power.
You can connect a 12 volt test lamp to that pin, grounding it somewhere
convenient. With a bad ballast resistor, you switch the key to ON, the
lamp goes on then cuts out after a few seconds, if I remember
correctly. With a good ballast resistor, the lamp should stay lit as
long as power is on.

It's only, like, $11 or something for a new one, so you should try that.


Cheers,
/tom


loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) writes:

>This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
>installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
>am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
>cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
>sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
>injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
>the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
>before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
>something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed

--
( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( * ) ) ) there is no antelope ) )
|
Rev. Tom Mary Dobrowolsky | The Information School
http://students.washington.edu/agent /-\ University of Washington

Tom Dobrowolsky

Hi Ed,

Mine is an 87 Comanche.

I had the same thing happen to me...drove out to get gas, ironically, and
when I stopped at a light afterwards, the truck died. Restarted fine, died
two seconds later...repeat. It ended up being the ballast resistor. It's
a white, elongated kinda-trapezoidal thing bolted to the driver-side
fender. There are two wires (orange w/blk on my truck) running to it.

If you bypass the ballast resistor, connecting the two wires directly,
and switch the key to ON, the fuel pump will run forever instead of cutting
out when it builds up the correct system pressure. Probably not good to
run like this but it at least verifies that all is working properly and
that it is the ballast resistor.

This happened a while ago, so I can't remember the exact details. There
is one pin in the diagnostic connector which indicates fuel pump power.
You can connect a 12 volt test lamp to that pin, grounding it somewhere
convenient. With a bad ballast resistor, you switch the key to ON, the
lamp goes on then cuts out after a few seconds, if I remember
correctly. With a good ballast resistor, the lamp should stay lit as
long as power is on.

It's only, like, $11 or something for a new one, so you should try that.


Cheers,
/tom


loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) writes:

>This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
>installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
>am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
>cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
>sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
>injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
>the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
>before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
>something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed

--
( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( * ) ) ) there is no antelope ) )
|
Rev. Tom Mary Dobrowolsky | The Information School
http://students.washington.edu/agent /-\ University of Washington