88 Comanche stalling
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Comanche stalling
Go to the parts store and get a 'noid' to put in the line to the
injectors. It's a light that will show if they are being pulsed
(similar to the one used to see if a plug is firing). You can also
try pulling that big hunking connector at the top of the firewall,
driver's side and see if the contacts are clean. One other possible
problem (Mike and his grounds!) is that there is a single, separate
ground point used for the injectors under the dash and each injector
has an individual ground run all the way from the computer (or at
least that point). Be damned if I can find just where it is, but the
wiring diagrams show it going to a unique point. Sure sound like the
injectors are not firing. When my fuel pump was dying it would do
about the same thing - good pressure, but it would still fire and run
very briefly before dropping the pressure too far to keep running.
On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:39:13 UTC loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) wrote:
> This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
> installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
> am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
> cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
> sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
> injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
> the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
> before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
> something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed
>
>
> In article <ajOub.85212$Ec1.4232495@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
> "attnews" <john .n. allen@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> >you're lucky to have a pure amc jeep. I have one, too, an 87 comanche long
> >bed pioneer that looks and runs like brand new. someone should have
> >pressure tested the original fuel pump before putting on a new one. I'll
> >give a look in my factory service manual and see if I find a sympton like
> >you describe....have you tried cranking it with your foot on the gas pedal??
> >"Ed" <loksmith@localnet.com> wrote in message
> >news:vrl4l0p6fg3dde@corp.supernews.com...
> >> Hi,
> >> I have a 88 Jeep Comanche, six cylinder, automatic transmission, fuel
> >> injection, 4WD with approximately 88,000 original miles. Up to last week,
> >it
> >> started and ran like a champ. My son (maybe the problem) took it to work
> >one
> >> day last week. When he came out of work, it would start and then die.
> >> Start/Die Start/Die Start/Die. I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me
> >that
> >> it was not getting any pressure from the fuel pump. Installed one and now
> >it
> >> gets 40lbs pressure. Still won't run. He says if he sprays starting fluid
> >into
> >> the intake hose, it will continue to run. After doing this for a a little
> >> while, it would continue to run without the starting fluid. After shutting
> >it
> >> off, and leaving it set for a few minutes, it won't restart without the
> >> starting fluid. He says he is 99% sure it is the computer. I can get one
> >from
> >> the junk yard for $75. When I talked to the guy at the junk yard (a junk
> >yard
> >> that didn't have one ) he said that he'd never sold a computer for a Jeep.
> >He
> >> said they just don't go bad. My mechanic is pretty good, but I'd like to
> >get
> >> some input from you guys before buying the computer. Please ....any
> >ideas??
> >> Thanks.......Ed
> >
> >
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
injectors. It's a light that will show if they are being pulsed
(similar to the one used to see if a plug is firing). You can also
try pulling that big hunking connector at the top of the firewall,
driver's side and see if the contacts are clean. One other possible
problem (Mike and his grounds!) is that there is a single, separate
ground point used for the injectors under the dash and each injector
has an individual ground run all the way from the computer (or at
least that point). Be damned if I can find just where it is, but the
wiring diagrams show it going to a unique point. Sure sound like the
injectors are not firing. When my fuel pump was dying it would do
about the same thing - good pressure, but it would still fire and run
very briefly before dropping the pressure too far to keep running.
On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:39:13 UTC loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) wrote:
> This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
> installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
> am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
> cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
> sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
> injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
> the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
> before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
> something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed
>
>
> In article <ajOub.85212$Ec1.4232495@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
> "attnews" <john .n. allen@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> >you're lucky to have a pure amc jeep. I have one, too, an 87 comanche long
> >bed pioneer that looks and runs like brand new. someone should have
> >pressure tested the original fuel pump before putting on a new one. I'll
> >give a look in my factory service manual and see if I find a sympton like
> >you describe....have you tried cranking it with your foot on the gas pedal??
> >"Ed" <loksmith@localnet.com> wrote in message
> >news:vrl4l0p6fg3dde@corp.supernews.com...
> >> Hi,
> >> I have a 88 Jeep Comanche, six cylinder, automatic transmission, fuel
> >> injection, 4WD with approximately 88,000 original miles. Up to last week,
> >it
> >> started and ran like a champ. My son (maybe the problem) took it to work
> >one
> >> day last week. When he came out of work, it would start and then die.
> >> Start/Die Start/Die Start/Die. I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me
> >that
> >> it was not getting any pressure from the fuel pump. Installed one and now
> >it
> >> gets 40lbs pressure. Still won't run. He says if he sprays starting fluid
> >into
> >> the intake hose, it will continue to run. After doing this for a a little
> >> while, it would continue to run without the starting fluid. After shutting
> >it
> >> off, and leaving it set for a few minutes, it won't restart without the
> >> starting fluid. He says he is 99% sure it is the computer. I can get one
> >from
> >> the junk yard for $75. When I talked to the guy at the junk yard (a junk
> >yard
> >> that didn't have one ) he said that he'd never sold a computer for a Jeep.
> >He
> >> said they just don't go bad. My mechanic is pretty good, but I'd like to
> >get
> >> some input from you guys before buying the computer. Please ....any
> >ideas??
> >> Thanks.......Ed
> >
> >
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Comanche stalling
The ballast resistor also controls the injectors I believe. If the fuel
pump isn't getting a clean power signal, I think the injectors shut down
too.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "I am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure."
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > There is a balllast resistor on the fuel pump power on my 88.
> >
> > It is a white ceramic one out near the rad on the drivers side.
> >
> > The pump also relies on the body for ground, so if the ground strap is
> > bad it will up and cut out.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
pump isn't getting a clean power signal, I think the injectors shut down
too.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "I am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure."
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > There is a balllast resistor on the fuel pump power on my 88.
> >
> > It is a white ceramic one out near the rad on the drivers side.
> >
> > The pump also relies on the body for ground, so if the ground strap is
> > bad it will up and cut out.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Comanche stalling
The ballast resistor also controls the injectors I believe. If the fuel
pump isn't getting a clean power signal, I think the injectors shut down
too.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "I am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure."
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > There is a balllast resistor on the fuel pump power on my 88.
> >
> > It is a white ceramic one out near the rad on the drivers side.
> >
> > The pump also relies on the body for ground, so if the ground strap is
> > bad it will up and cut out.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
pump isn't getting a clean power signal, I think the injectors shut down
too.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "I am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure."
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > There is a balllast resistor on the fuel pump power on my 88.
> >
> > It is a white ceramic one out near the rad on the drivers side.
> >
> > The pump also relies on the body for ground, so if the ground strap is
> > bad it will up and cut out.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Comanche stalling
The ballast resistor also controls the injectors I believe. If the fuel
pump isn't getting a clean power signal, I think the injectors shut down
too.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "I am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure."
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > There is a balllast resistor on the fuel pump power on my 88.
> >
> > It is a white ceramic one out near the rad on the drivers side.
> >
> > The pump also relies on the body for ground, so if the ground strap is
> > bad it will up and cut out.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
pump isn't getting a clean power signal, I think the injectors shut down
too.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> "I am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure."
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > There is a balllast resistor on the fuel pump power on my 88.
> >
> > It is a white ceramic one out near the rad on the drivers side.
> >
> > The pump also relies on the body for ground, so if the ground strap is
> > bad it will up and cut out.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Comanche stalling
One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
firewall above the gas pedal.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Go to the parts store and get a 'noid' to put in the line to the
> injectors. It's a light that will show if they are being pulsed
> (similar to the one used to see if a plug is firing). You can also
> try pulling that big hunking connector at the top of the firewall,
> driver's side and see if the contacts are clean. One other possible
> problem (Mike and his grounds!) is that there is a single, separate
> ground point used for the injectors under the dash and each injector
> has an individual ground run all the way from the computer (or at
> least that point). Be damned if I can find just where it is, but the
> wiring diagrams show it going to a unique point. Sure sound like the
> injectors are not firing. When my fuel pump was dying it would do
> about the same thing - good pressure, but it would still fire and run
> very briefly before dropping the pressure too far to keep running.
>
> On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:39:13 UTC loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) wrote:
>
> > This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
> > installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
> > am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
> > cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
> > sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
> > injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
> > the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
> > before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
> > something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed
> >
> >
> > In article <ajOub.85212$Ec1.4232495@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
> > "attnews" <john .n. allen@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> > >you're lucky to have a pure amc jeep. I have one, too, an 87 comanche long
> > >bed pioneer that looks and runs like brand new. someone should have
> > >pressure tested the original fuel pump before putting on a new one. I'll
> > >give a look in my factory service manual and see if I find a sympton like
> > >you describe....have you tried cranking it with your foot on the gas pedal??
> > >"Ed" <loksmith@localnet.com> wrote in message
> > >news:vrl4l0p6fg3dde@corp.supernews.com...
> > >> Hi,
> > >> I have a 88 Jeep Comanche, six cylinder, automatic transmission, fuel
> > >> injection, 4WD with approximately 88,000 original miles. Up to last week,
> > >it
> > >> started and ran like a champ. My son (maybe the problem) took it to work
> > >one
> > >> day last week. When he came out of work, it would start and then die.
> > >> Start/Die Start/Die Start/Die. I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me
> > >that
> > >> it was not getting any pressure from the fuel pump. Installed one and now
> > >it
> > >> gets 40lbs pressure. Still won't run. He says if he sprays starting fluid
> > >into
> > >> the intake hose, it will continue to run. After doing this for a a little
> > >> while, it would continue to run without the starting fluid. After shutting
> > >it
> > >> off, and leaving it set for a few minutes, it won't restart without the
> > >> starting fluid. He says he is 99% sure it is the computer. I can get one
> > >from
> > >> the junk yard for $75. When I talked to the guy at the junk yard (a junk
> > >yard
> > >> that didn't have one ) he said that he'd never sold a computer for a Jeep.
> > >He
> > >> said they just don't go bad. My mechanic is pretty good, but I'd like to
> > >get
> > >> some input from you guys before buying the computer. Please ....any
> > >ideas??
> > >> Thanks.......Ed
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
firewall above the gas pedal.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Go to the parts store and get a 'noid' to put in the line to the
> injectors. It's a light that will show if they are being pulsed
> (similar to the one used to see if a plug is firing). You can also
> try pulling that big hunking connector at the top of the firewall,
> driver's side and see if the contacts are clean. One other possible
> problem (Mike and his grounds!) is that there is a single, separate
> ground point used for the injectors under the dash and each injector
> has an individual ground run all the way from the computer (or at
> least that point). Be damned if I can find just where it is, but the
> wiring diagrams show it going to a unique point. Sure sound like the
> injectors are not firing. When my fuel pump was dying it would do
> about the same thing - good pressure, but it would still fire and run
> very briefly before dropping the pressure too far to keep running.
>
> On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:39:13 UTC loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) wrote:
>
> > This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
> > installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
> > am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
> > cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
> > sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
> > injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
> > the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
> > before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
> > something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed
> >
> >
> > In article <ajOub.85212$Ec1.4232495@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
> > "attnews" <john .n. allen@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> > >you're lucky to have a pure amc jeep. I have one, too, an 87 comanche long
> > >bed pioneer that looks and runs like brand new. someone should have
> > >pressure tested the original fuel pump before putting on a new one. I'll
> > >give a look in my factory service manual and see if I find a sympton like
> > >you describe....have you tried cranking it with your foot on the gas pedal??
> > >"Ed" <loksmith@localnet.com> wrote in message
> > >news:vrl4l0p6fg3dde@corp.supernews.com...
> > >> Hi,
> > >> I have a 88 Jeep Comanche, six cylinder, automatic transmission, fuel
> > >> injection, 4WD with approximately 88,000 original miles. Up to last week,
> > >it
> > >> started and ran like a champ. My son (maybe the problem) took it to work
> > >one
> > >> day last week. When he came out of work, it would start and then die.
> > >> Start/Die Start/Die Start/Die. I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me
> > >that
> > >> it was not getting any pressure from the fuel pump. Installed one and now
> > >it
> > >> gets 40lbs pressure. Still won't run. He says if he sprays starting fluid
> > >into
> > >> the intake hose, it will continue to run. After doing this for a a little
> > >> while, it would continue to run without the starting fluid. After shutting
> > >it
> > >> off, and leaving it set for a few minutes, it won't restart without the
> > >> starting fluid. He says he is 99% sure it is the computer. I can get one
> > >from
> > >> the junk yard for $75. When I talked to the guy at the junk yard (a junk
> > >yard
> > >> that didn't have one ) he said that he'd never sold a computer for a Jeep.
> > >He
> > >> said they just don't go bad. My mechanic is pretty good, but I'd like to
> > >get
> > >> some input from you guys before buying the computer. Please ....any
> > >ideas??
> > >> Thanks.......Ed
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Comanche stalling
One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
firewall above the gas pedal.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Go to the parts store and get a 'noid' to put in the line to the
> injectors. It's a light that will show if they are being pulsed
> (similar to the one used to see if a plug is firing). You can also
> try pulling that big hunking connector at the top of the firewall,
> driver's side and see if the contacts are clean. One other possible
> problem (Mike and his grounds!) is that there is a single, separate
> ground point used for the injectors under the dash and each injector
> has an individual ground run all the way from the computer (or at
> least that point). Be damned if I can find just where it is, but the
> wiring diagrams show it going to a unique point. Sure sound like the
> injectors are not firing. When my fuel pump was dying it would do
> about the same thing - good pressure, but it would still fire and run
> very briefly before dropping the pressure too far to keep running.
>
> On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:39:13 UTC loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) wrote:
>
> > This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
> > installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
> > am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
> > cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
> > sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
> > injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
> > the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
> > before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
> > something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed
> >
> >
> > In article <ajOub.85212$Ec1.4232495@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
> > "attnews" <john .n. allen@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> > >you're lucky to have a pure amc jeep. I have one, too, an 87 comanche long
> > >bed pioneer that looks and runs like brand new. someone should have
> > >pressure tested the original fuel pump before putting on a new one. I'll
> > >give a look in my factory service manual and see if I find a sympton like
> > >you describe....have you tried cranking it with your foot on the gas pedal??
> > >"Ed" <loksmith@localnet.com> wrote in message
> > >news:vrl4l0p6fg3dde@corp.supernews.com...
> > >> Hi,
> > >> I have a 88 Jeep Comanche, six cylinder, automatic transmission, fuel
> > >> injection, 4WD with approximately 88,000 original miles. Up to last week,
> > >it
> > >> started and ran like a champ. My son (maybe the problem) took it to work
> > >one
> > >> day last week. When he came out of work, it would start and then die.
> > >> Start/Die Start/Die Start/Die. I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me
> > >that
> > >> it was not getting any pressure from the fuel pump. Installed one and now
> > >it
> > >> gets 40lbs pressure. Still won't run. He says if he sprays starting fluid
> > >into
> > >> the intake hose, it will continue to run. After doing this for a a little
> > >> while, it would continue to run without the starting fluid. After shutting
> > >it
> > >> off, and leaving it set for a few minutes, it won't restart without the
> > >> starting fluid. He says he is 99% sure it is the computer. I can get one
> > >from
> > >> the junk yard for $75. When I talked to the guy at the junk yard (a junk
> > >yard
> > >> that didn't have one ) he said that he'd never sold a computer for a Jeep.
> > >He
> > >> said they just don't go bad. My mechanic is pretty good, but I'd like to
> > >get
> > >> some input from you guys before buying the computer. Please ....any
> > >ideas??
> > >> Thanks.......Ed
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
firewall above the gas pedal.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Go to the parts store and get a 'noid' to put in the line to the
> injectors. It's a light that will show if they are being pulsed
> (similar to the one used to see if a plug is firing). You can also
> try pulling that big hunking connector at the top of the firewall,
> driver's side and see if the contacts are clean. One other possible
> problem (Mike and his grounds!) is that there is a single, separate
> ground point used for the injectors under the dash and each injector
> has an individual ground run all the way from the computer (or at
> least that point). Be damned if I can find just where it is, but the
> wiring diagrams show it going to a unique point. Sure sound like the
> injectors are not firing. When my fuel pump was dying it would do
> about the same thing - good pressure, but it would still fire and run
> very briefly before dropping the pressure too far to keep running.
>
> On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:39:13 UTC loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) wrote:
>
> > This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
> > installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
> > am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
> > cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
> > sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
> > injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
> > the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
> > before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
> > something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed
> >
> >
> > In article <ajOub.85212$Ec1.4232495@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
> > "attnews" <john .n. allen@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> > >you're lucky to have a pure amc jeep. I have one, too, an 87 comanche long
> > >bed pioneer that looks and runs like brand new. someone should have
> > >pressure tested the original fuel pump before putting on a new one. I'll
> > >give a look in my factory service manual and see if I find a sympton like
> > >you describe....have you tried cranking it with your foot on the gas pedal??
> > >"Ed" <loksmith@localnet.com> wrote in message
> > >news:vrl4l0p6fg3dde@corp.supernews.com...
> > >> Hi,
> > >> I have a 88 Jeep Comanche, six cylinder, automatic transmission, fuel
> > >> injection, 4WD with approximately 88,000 original miles. Up to last week,
> > >it
> > >> started and ran like a champ. My son (maybe the problem) took it to work
> > >one
> > >> day last week. When he came out of work, it would start and then die.
> > >> Start/Die Start/Die Start/Die. I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me
> > >that
> > >> it was not getting any pressure from the fuel pump. Installed one and now
> > >it
> > >> gets 40lbs pressure. Still won't run. He says if he sprays starting fluid
> > >into
> > >> the intake hose, it will continue to run. After doing this for a a little
> > >> while, it would continue to run without the starting fluid. After shutting
> > >it
> > >> off, and leaving it set for a few minutes, it won't restart without the
> > >> starting fluid. He says he is 99% sure it is the computer. I can get one
> > >from
> > >> the junk yard for $75. When I talked to the guy at the junk yard (a junk
> > >yard
> > >> that didn't have one ) he said that he'd never sold a computer for a Jeep.
> > >He
> > >> said they just don't go bad. My mechanic is pretty good, but I'd like to
> > >get
> > >> some input from you guys before buying the computer. Please ....any
> > >ideas??
> > >> Thanks.......Ed
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Comanche stalling
One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
firewall above the gas pedal.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Go to the parts store and get a 'noid' to put in the line to the
> injectors. It's a light that will show if they are being pulsed
> (similar to the one used to see if a plug is firing). You can also
> try pulling that big hunking connector at the top of the firewall,
> driver's side and see if the contacts are clean. One other possible
> problem (Mike and his grounds!) is that there is a single, separate
> ground point used for the injectors under the dash and each injector
> has an individual ground run all the way from the computer (or at
> least that point). Be damned if I can find just where it is, but the
> wiring diagrams show it going to a unique point. Sure sound like the
> injectors are not firing. When my fuel pump was dying it would do
> about the same thing - good pressure, but it would still fire and run
> very briefly before dropping the pressure too far to keep running.
>
> On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:39:13 UTC loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) wrote:
>
> > This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
> > installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
> > am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
> > cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
> > sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
> > injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
> > the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
> > before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
> > something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed
> >
> >
> > In article <ajOub.85212$Ec1.4232495@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
> > "attnews" <john .n. allen@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> > >you're lucky to have a pure amc jeep. I have one, too, an 87 comanche long
> > >bed pioneer that looks and runs like brand new. someone should have
> > >pressure tested the original fuel pump before putting on a new one. I'll
> > >give a look in my factory service manual and see if I find a sympton like
> > >you describe....have you tried cranking it with your foot on the gas pedal??
> > >"Ed" <loksmith@localnet.com> wrote in message
> > >news:vrl4l0p6fg3dde@corp.supernews.com...
> > >> Hi,
> > >> I have a 88 Jeep Comanche, six cylinder, automatic transmission, fuel
> > >> injection, 4WD with approximately 88,000 original miles. Up to last week,
> > >it
> > >> started and ran like a champ. My son (maybe the problem) took it to work
> > >one
> > >> day last week. When he came out of work, it would start and then die.
> > >> Start/Die Start/Die Start/Die. I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me
> > >that
> > >> it was not getting any pressure from the fuel pump. Installed one and now
> > >it
> > >> gets 40lbs pressure. Still won't run. He says if he sprays starting fluid
> > >into
> > >> the intake hose, it will continue to run. After doing this for a a little
> > >> while, it would continue to run without the starting fluid. After shutting
> > >it
> > >> off, and leaving it set for a few minutes, it won't restart without the
> > >> starting fluid. He says he is 99% sure it is the computer. I can get one
> > >from
> > >> the junk yard for $75. When I talked to the guy at the junk yard (a junk
> > >yard
> > >> that didn't have one ) he said that he'd never sold a computer for a Jeep.
> > >He
> > >> said they just don't go bad. My mechanic is pretty good, but I'd like to
> > >get
> > >> some input from you guys before buying the computer. Please ....any
> > >ideas??
> > >> Thanks.......Ed
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
firewall above the gas pedal.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Go to the parts store and get a 'noid' to put in the line to the
> injectors. It's a light that will show if they are being pulsed
> (similar to the one used to see if a plug is firing). You can also
> try pulling that big hunking connector at the top of the firewall,
> driver's side and see if the contacts are clean. One other possible
> problem (Mike and his grounds!) is that there is a single, separate
> ground point used for the injectors under the dash and each injector
> has an individual ground run all the way from the computer (or at
> least that point). Be damned if I can find just where it is, but the
> wiring diagrams show it going to a unique point. Sure sound like the
> injectors are not firing. When my fuel pump was dying it would do
> about the same thing - good pressure, but it would still fire and run
> very briefly before dropping the pressure too far to keep running.
>
> On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 18:39:13 UTC loksmith@localnet.com (Ed) wrote:
>
> > This is an update to my stalling problem. I got a computer from a junk yard,
> > installed, same symptom. It really seems like it should be something simple. I
> > am getting 40 lbs of fuel pressure. It stays running as long as you spray carb
> > cleaner into the intake hose. As soon as you stop, the engine dies. It doesn't
> > sputter or cough, it just stops dead. My mechanic says it just looks like the
> > injectors are not firing. Since it runs as long as you put carb cleaner into
> > the input hose, I am guessing it's not electrical. This truck was running fine
> > before this happened, and it happened so suddenly, it just seems that it's
> > something simple. Thanks for all help..........Ed
> >
> >
> > In article <ajOub.85212$Ec1.4232495@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
> > "attnews" <john .n. allen@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> > >you're lucky to have a pure amc jeep. I have one, too, an 87 comanche long
> > >bed pioneer that looks and runs like brand new. someone should have
> > >pressure tested the original fuel pump before putting on a new one. I'll
> > >give a look in my factory service manual and see if I find a sympton like
> > >you describe....have you tried cranking it with your foot on the gas pedal??
> > >"Ed" <loksmith@localnet.com> wrote in message
> > >news:vrl4l0p6fg3dde@corp.supernews.com...
> > >> Hi,
> > >> I have a 88 Jeep Comanche, six cylinder, automatic transmission, fuel
> > >> injection, 4WD with approximately 88,000 original miles. Up to last week,
> > >it
> > >> started and ran like a champ. My son (maybe the problem) took it to work
> > >one
> > >> day last week. When he came out of work, it would start and then die.
> > >> Start/Die Start/Die Start/Die. I had it towed to my mechanic. He told me
> > >that
> > >> it was not getting any pressure from the fuel pump. Installed one and now
> > >it
> > >> gets 40lbs pressure. Still won't run. He says if he sprays starting fluid
> > >into
> > >> the intake hose, it will continue to run. After doing this for a a little
> > >> while, it would continue to run without the starting fluid. After shutting
> > >it
> > >> off, and leaving it set for a few minutes, it won't restart without the
> > >> starting fluid. He says he is 99% sure it is the computer. I can get one
> > >from
> > >> the junk yard for $75. When I talked to the guy at the junk yard (a junk
> > >yard
> > >> that didn't have one ) he said that he'd never sold a computer for a Jeep.
> > >He
> > >> said they just don't go bad. My mechanic is pretty good, but I'd like to
> > >get
> > >> some input from you guys before buying the computer. Please ....any
> > >ideas??
> > >> Thanks.......Ed
> > >
> > >
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Comanche stalling
On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 15:36:12 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
> at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
> firewall above the gas pedal.
I've been looking for that inside sucker and still haven't found it -
it's gotta be there somewhere! I even had the whole dash off a while
back and still didn't see it - must be under the soundproofing
somewhere. I'd sure like to finally get my hands on it, tho - when I
have the blower on High, I get a 3 volt drop between the battery and
the fan motor ground and a good 2 volt drop in the instrument panel
ground. That plays hell with the radio so I can imagine that it does
the computer no good either. It also limits the output of the heater
to about what I would get in the medium speed position. I've got a
max 150 mv drop at the firewall metal and the stud where the strap
from the engine connects, so that part is good. About what you would
expect - the easy to reach point is just fine...
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
wrote:
> One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
> at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
> firewall above the gas pedal.
I've been looking for that inside sucker and still haven't found it -
it's gotta be there somewhere! I even had the whole dash off a while
back and still didn't see it - must be under the soundproofing
somewhere. I'd sure like to finally get my hands on it, tho - when I
have the blower on High, I get a 3 volt drop between the battery and
the fan motor ground and a good 2 volt drop in the instrument panel
ground. That plays hell with the radio so I can imagine that it does
the computer no good either. It also limits the output of the heater
to about what I would get in the medium speed position. I've got a
max 150 mv drop at the firewall metal and the stud where the strap
from the engine connects, so that part is good. About what you would
expect - the easy to reach point is just fine...
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Comanche stalling
On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 15:36:12 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
> at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
> firewall above the gas pedal.
I've been looking for that inside sucker and still haven't found it -
it's gotta be there somewhere! I even had the whole dash off a while
back and still didn't see it - must be under the soundproofing
somewhere. I'd sure like to finally get my hands on it, tho - when I
have the blower on High, I get a 3 volt drop between the battery and
the fan motor ground and a good 2 volt drop in the instrument panel
ground. That plays hell with the radio so I can imagine that it does
the computer no good either. It also limits the output of the heater
to about what I would get in the medium speed position. I've got a
max 150 mv drop at the firewall metal and the stud where the strap
from the engine connects, so that part is good. About what you would
expect - the easy to reach point is just fine...
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
wrote:
> One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
> at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
> firewall above the gas pedal.
I've been looking for that inside sucker and still haven't found it -
it's gotta be there somewhere! I even had the whole dash off a while
back and still didn't see it - must be under the soundproofing
somewhere. I'd sure like to finally get my hands on it, tho - when I
have the blower on High, I get a 3 volt drop between the battery and
the fan motor ground and a good 2 volt drop in the instrument panel
ground. That plays hell with the radio so I can imagine that it does
the computer no good either. It also limits the output of the heater
to about what I would get in the medium speed position. I've got a
max 150 mv drop at the firewall metal and the stud where the strap
from the engine connects, so that part is good. About what you would
expect - the easy to reach point is just fine...
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Comanche stalling
On Thu, 20 Nov 2003 15:36:12 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
> at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
> firewall above the gas pedal.
I've been looking for that inside sucker and still haven't found it -
it's gotta be there somewhere! I even had the whole dash off a while
back and still didn't see it - must be under the soundproofing
somewhere. I'd sure like to finally get my hands on it, tho - when I
have the blower on High, I get a 3 volt drop between the battery and
the fan motor ground and a good 2 volt drop in the instrument panel
ground. That plays hell with the radio so I can imagine that it does
the computer no good either. It also limits the output of the heater
to about what I would get in the medium speed position. I've got a
max 150 mv drop at the firewall metal and the stud where the strap
from the engine connects, so that part is good. About what you would
expect - the easy to reach point is just fine...
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
wrote:
> One of the main ground tags for the electronics is on the passenger side
> at the rear of the engine block. The other one is inside on the
> firewall above the gas pedal.
I've been looking for that inside sucker and still haven't found it -
it's gotta be there somewhere! I even had the whole dash off a while
back and still didn't see it - must be under the soundproofing
somewhere. I'd sure like to finally get my hands on it, tho - when I
have the blower on High, I get a 3 volt drop between the battery and
the fan motor ground and a good 2 volt drop in the instrument panel
ground. That plays hell with the radio so I can imagine that it does
the computer no good either. It also limits the output of the heater
to about what I would get in the medium speed position. I've got a
max 150 mv drop at the firewall metal and the stud where the strap
from the engine connects, so that part is good. About what you would
expect - the easy to reach point is just fine...
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>