87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
12-10-2003, 09:52 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>gone.
Was it pretty easy to do? Seem like it gives any more power?
I can get a used Weber carb pretty cheap, but I want to do the Nutter
bypass at the same time.
Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ,"Money Hungry"
4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
PosiLock, 4.10s
12-10-2003, 09:52 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>gone.
Was it pretty easy to do? Seem like it gives any more power?
I can get a used Weber carb pretty cheap, but I want to do the Nutter
bypass at the same time.
Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ,"Money Hungry"
4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
PosiLock, 4.10s
12-10-2003, 09:52 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>gone.
Was it pretty easy to do? Seem like it gives any more power?
I can get a used Weber carb pretty cheap, but I want to do the Nutter
bypass at the same time.
Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ,"Money Hungry"
4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
PosiLock, 4.10s
12-10-2003, 10:59 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
It was simple to do. Here is how I wired mine in about 25 minutes.
1.)With the engine idling I screwed in the idle screws at the base of
carb (front side)
2.) Engine will want to stall, at this point unplug the stepper motor,
then shut the engine down.
3.) Remove the washer fluid bottle (2 nuts)
4.) Remove the Ign. Module that is mounted below it (3 bolts screwed
in from tire side of wheel well.
5.) Unplug the Ign. Module (2 plugs)
6.) Cut the orange and purple wires on the harness coming from the Ign
Module and connect a wire to each of these.
7.) Run the wires along the firewall over to the distributor, cut the
purple and orange wires at the distributor harness ans splice
in the new ones. (orange to orange etc.)
8.) If your vac advance is connected to manifold vac you need
to reroute it to a ported connection, I used the port from the
base of the carb. (located up front most likely with a plug on
it right now.
9.) Open up the idle screws about 4 full turns (from fully closed)
10.) Start it up and adjust idle screws and timing as required.
11.) Cleaned up the wire routing and tied it all down
12,) Took it out for a test run with a big grin on my face.
I have more horsepower and it idles a hell of a lot better than
before.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm <<<< nutter explains mod
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm <<< the mod wiring pics
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm <<< my ride
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 02:52:27 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>
>>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>>gone.
>
>Was it pretty easy to do? Seem like it gives any more power?
>I can get a used Weber carb pretty cheap, but I want to do the Nutter
>bypass at the same time.
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
1.)With the engine idling I screwed in the idle screws at the base of
carb (front side)
2.) Engine will want to stall, at this point unplug the stepper motor,
then shut the engine down.
3.) Remove the washer fluid bottle (2 nuts)
4.) Remove the Ign. Module that is mounted below it (3 bolts screwed
in from tire side of wheel well.
5.) Unplug the Ign. Module (2 plugs)
6.) Cut the orange and purple wires on the harness coming from the Ign
Module and connect a wire to each of these.
7.) Run the wires along the firewall over to the distributor, cut the
purple and orange wires at the distributor harness ans splice
in the new ones. (orange to orange etc.)
8.) If your vac advance is connected to manifold vac you need
to reroute it to a ported connection, I used the port from the
base of the carb. (located up front most likely with a plug on
it right now.
9.) Open up the idle screws about 4 full turns (from fully closed)
10.) Start it up and adjust idle screws and timing as required.
11.) Cleaned up the wire routing and tied it all down
12,) Took it out for a test run with a big grin on my face.
I have more horsepower and it idles a hell of a lot better than
before.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm <<<< nutter explains mod
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm <<< the mod wiring pics
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm <<< my ride
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 02:52:27 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>
>>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>>gone.
>
>Was it pretty easy to do? Seem like it gives any more power?
>I can get a used Weber carb pretty cheap, but I want to do the Nutter
>bypass at the same time.
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
12-10-2003, 10:59 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
It was simple to do. Here is how I wired mine in about 25 minutes.
1.)With the engine idling I screwed in the idle screws at the base of
carb (front side)
2.) Engine will want to stall, at this point unplug the stepper motor,
then shut the engine down.
3.) Remove the washer fluid bottle (2 nuts)
4.) Remove the Ign. Module that is mounted below it (3 bolts screwed
in from tire side of wheel well.
5.) Unplug the Ign. Module (2 plugs)
6.) Cut the orange and purple wires on the harness coming from the Ign
Module and connect a wire to each of these.
7.) Run the wires along the firewall over to the distributor, cut the
purple and orange wires at the distributor harness ans splice
in the new ones. (orange to orange etc.)
8.) If your vac advance is connected to manifold vac you need
to reroute it to a ported connection, I used the port from the
base of the carb. (located up front most likely with a plug on
it right now.
9.) Open up the idle screws about 4 full turns (from fully closed)
10.) Start it up and adjust idle screws and timing as required.
11.) Cleaned up the wire routing and tied it all down
12,) Took it out for a test run with a big grin on my face.
I have more horsepower and it idles a hell of a lot better than
before.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm <<<< nutter explains mod
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm <<< the mod wiring pics
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm <<< my ride
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 02:52:27 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>
>>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>>gone.
>
>Was it pretty easy to do? Seem like it gives any more power?
>I can get a used Weber carb pretty cheap, but I want to do the Nutter
>bypass at the same time.
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
1.)With the engine idling I screwed in the idle screws at the base of
carb (front side)
2.) Engine will want to stall, at this point unplug the stepper motor,
then shut the engine down.
3.) Remove the washer fluid bottle (2 nuts)
4.) Remove the Ign. Module that is mounted below it (3 bolts screwed
in from tire side of wheel well.
5.) Unplug the Ign. Module (2 plugs)
6.) Cut the orange and purple wires on the harness coming from the Ign
Module and connect a wire to each of these.
7.) Run the wires along the firewall over to the distributor, cut the
purple and orange wires at the distributor harness ans splice
in the new ones. (orange to orange etc.)
8.) If your vac advance is connected to manifold vac you need
to reroute it to a ported connection, I used the port from the
base of the carb. (located up front most likely with a plug on
it right now.
9.) Open up the idle screws about 4 full turns (from fully closed)
10.) Start it up and adjust idle screws and timing as required.
11.) Cleaned up the wire routing and tied it all down
12,) Took it out for a test run with a big grin on my face.
I have more horsepower and it idles a hell of a lot better than
before.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm <<<< nutter explains mod
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm <<< the mod wiring pics
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm <<< my ride
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 02:52:27 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>
>>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>>gone.
>
>Was it pretty easy to do? Seem like it gives any more power?
>I can get a used Weber carb pretty cheap, but I want to do the Nutter
>bypass at the same time.
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
12-10-2003, 10:59 PM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
It was simple to do. Here is how I wired mine in about 25 minutes.
1.)With the engine idling I screwed in the idle screws at the base of
carb (front side)
2.) Engine will want to stall, at this point unplug the stepper motor,
then shut the engine down.
3.) Remove the washer fluid bottle (2 nuts)
4.) Remove the Ign. Module that is mounted below it (3 bolts screwed
in from tire side of wheel well.
5.) Unplug the Ign. Module (2 plugs)
6.) Cut the orange and purple wires on the harness coming from the Ign
Module and connect a wire to each of these.
7.) Run the wires along the firewall over to the distributor, cut the
purple and orange wires at the distributor harness ans splice
in the new ones. (orange to orange etc.)
8.) If your vac advance is connected to manifold vac you need
to reroute it to a ported connection, I used the port from the
base of the carb. (located up front most likely with a plug on
it right now.
9.) Open up the idle screws about 4 full turns (from fully closed)
10.) Start it up and adjust idle screws and timing as required.
11.) Cleaned up the wire routing and tied it all down
12,) Took it out for a test run with a big grin on my face.
I have more horsepower and it idles a hell of a lot better than
before.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm <<<< nutter explains mod
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm <<< the mod wiring pics
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm <<< my ride
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 02:52:27 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>
>>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>>gone.
>
>Was it pretty easy to do? Seem like it gives any more power?
>I can get a used Weber carb pretty cheap, but I want to do the Nutter
>bypass at the same time.
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
1.)With the engine idling I screwed in the idle screws at the base of
carb (front side)
2.) Engine will want to stall, at this point unplug the stepper motor,
then shut the engine down.
3.) Remove the washer fluid bottle (2 nuts)
4.) Remove the Ign. Module that is mounted below it (3 bolts screwed
in from tire side of wheel well.
5.) Unplug the Ign. Module (2 plugs)
6.) Cut the orange and purple wires on the harness coming from the Ign
Module and connect a wire to each of these.
7.) Run the wires along the firewall over to the distributor, cut the
purple and orange wires at the distributor harness ans splice
in the new ones. (orange to orange etc.)
8.) If your vac advance is connected to manifold vac you need
to reroute it to a ported connection, I used the port from the
base of the carb. (located up front most likely with a plug on
it right now.
9.) Open up the idle screws about 4 full turns (from fully closed)
10.) Start it up and adjust idle screws and timing as required.
11.) Cleaned up the wire routing and tied it all down
12,) Took it out for a test run with a big grin on my face.
I have more horsepower and it idles a hell of a lot better than
before.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm <<<< nutter explains mod
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm <<< the mod wiring pics
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm <<< my ride
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 02:52:27 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>
>>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>>gone.
>
>Was it pretty easy to do? Seem like it gives any more power?
>I can get a used Weber carb pretty cheap, but I want to do the Nutter
>bypass at the same time.
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
12-10-2003, 11:41 PM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
In message <n6gftv4jq2ni65n6c6l3mj0mogu3s3bk7a@4ax.com>, "Jeepster" wrote:
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com ...
>>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>>> out the valve cover.
>>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>gone.
>I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
>advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
>screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
>and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
>it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
>started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
>very well at that point.
>
>Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
>forte......
>
>Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
>mixture richer correct?
>
No.
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com ...
>>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>>> out the valve cover.
>>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>gone.
>I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
>advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
>screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
>and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
>it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
>started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
>very well at that point.
>
>Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
>forte......
>
>Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
>mixture richer correct?
>
No.
12-10-2003, 11:41 PM
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
In message <n6gftv4jq2ni65n6c6l3mj0mogu3s3bk7a@4ax.com>, "Jeepster" wrote:
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com ...
>>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>>> out the valve cover.
>>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>gone.
>I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
>advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
>screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
>and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
>it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
>started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
>very well at that point.
>
>Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
>forte......
>
>Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
>mixture richer correct?
>
No.
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com ...
>>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>>> out the valve cover.
>>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>gone.
>I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
>advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
>screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
>and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
>it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
>started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
>very well at that point.
>
>Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
>forte......
>
>Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
>mixture richer correct?
>
No.
12-10-2003, 11:41 PM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
In message <n6gftv4jq2ni65n6c6l3mj0mogu3s3bk7a@4ax.com>, "Jeepster" wrote:
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com ...
>>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>>> out the valve cover.
>>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>gone.
>I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
>advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
>screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
>and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
>it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
>started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
>very well at that point.
>
>Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
>forte......
>
>Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
>mixture richer correct?
>
No.
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com ...
>>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>>> out the valve cover.
>>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>gone.
>I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
>advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
>screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
>and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
>it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
>started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
>very well at that point.
>
>Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
>forte......
>
>Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
>mixture richer correct?
>
No.
12-11-2003, 12:30 AM
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 04:41:29 GMT, bllsht <nospam@invaliddot.net>
wrote:
>In message <n6gftv4jq2ni65n6c6l3mj0mogu3s3bk7a@4ax.com>, "Jeepster" wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.co m...
>>>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>>>> out the valve cover.
>>>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>>>
>>>>> TIA
>>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>>gone.
>>I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
>>advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
>>screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
>>and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
>>it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
>>started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
>>very well at that point.
>>
>>Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
>>forte......
>>
>>Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
>>mixture richer correct?
>>
>
>No.
Ok .... thanks
wrote:
>In message <n6gftv4jq2ni65n6c6l3mj0mogu3s3bk7a@4ax.com>, "Jeepster" wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.co m...
>>>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>>>> out the valve cover.
>>>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>>>
>>>>> TIA
>>I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
>>it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
>>when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
>>gone.
>>I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
>>advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
>>screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
>>and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
>>it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
>>started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
>>very well at that point.
>>
>>Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
>>forte......
>>
>>Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
>>mixture richer correct?
>>
>
>No.
Ok .... thanks
