87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
12-10-2003, 07:24 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 00:21:23 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
in the morning (or even better, when you park it) remove the air
>cleaner so that you can see into the top of the carb. Now, while
>looking down into the top, move the throttle linkage with your hand.
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
To be clearer, engine has to be cold again before checking it
Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ,"Money Hungry"
4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
PosiLock, 4.10s
wrote:
in the morning (or even better, when you park it) remove the air
>cleaner so that you can see into the top of the carb. Now, while
>looking down into the top, move the throttle linkage with your hand.
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
To be clearer, engine has to be cold again before checking it
Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ,"Money Hungry"
4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
PosiLock, 4.10s
12-10-2003, 08:05 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com. ..
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>
>>> TIA
I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
gone.
I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
very well at that point.
Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
forte......
Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
mixture richer correct?
>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com. ..
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>
>>> TIA
I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
gone.
I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
very well at that point.
Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
forte......
Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
mixture richer correct?
12-10-2003, 08:05 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com. ..
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>
>>> TIA
I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
gone.
I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
very well at that point.
Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
forte......
Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
mixture richer correct?
>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com. ..
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>
>>> TIA
I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
gone.
I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
very well at that point.
Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
forte......
Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
mixture richer correct?
12-10-2003, 08:05 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:04:23 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com. ..
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>
>>> TIA
I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
gone.
I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
very well at that point.
Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
forte......
Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
mixture richer correct?
>On Wed, 10 Dec 2003 00:55:25 GMT, "c" <c@me.org> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Jeepster" <me@excite.com> wrote in message
>>news:lemctvka347jlpgngcvihp86ug29cungse@4ax.com. ..
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>Some of my ramblings clipped off.
>>>
>>> TIA
I decided tonight to do the Nutter bypass on my Jeep today and so far
it looks like it might have solved my problems, it starts right up
when I flick the key over and the stubble it had at idle seems to be
gone.
I had the vac advance on ported vacuum already but I did find I had to
advance the timing about 2 deg's after the mod, before I did the mod I
screwed in the idle screws until it was stalling and then shut it down
and unplugged the stepper motor. I did the mod and started it back up
it kept stalling of course so I backed the idle screws out 4 turns
started it and then cut them back about 1/2 turn, it seemed to idle
very well at that point.
Like I said before I'm not a mechanic and carb's are certainly not my
forte......
Question >>> As I screw in the idle screws I'm essentially making the
mixture richer correct?
12-10-2003, 08:14 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
On 10 Dec 2003 22:41:53 GMT, mark12211@aol.com (Mark12211) wrote:
>I had the same problem with my 89 YJ. I too have the same blow-by and valve
>cover leaks.
>
>Here are a few things my mechanic and I figured out that worked:
>
>1) Put in a paper air filter. The K&N let in too much air and messes with the
>mixture. Your Dodge dealer set the idle and mixture to factory specs, which is
>with a paper filter.
>2) Check your EGR valve. It should be replaced every 80,000 miles. Make sure
>you have suction at the EGR valve too.
>3) The Air Filter assembly will bend the choke if you put it on too fast.
>Check to see if it is bent. If it is bend you will notice you have to rev it
>alot on cold mornings to keep it from stalling, and it will stall at every stop
>light until it is really warmed up.
>4) did you get a rebuilt carb? 1 out of 2 of the rebuilts tend to be bad.
>Make sure the carb linkage is not greased. They are not meant to be lubed on
>these carbs.
>5) My mechanic told me, that the 258 and carter carb should always use Premium
>Fuel, and it has helped me since I started using it. When I am near the ocean
>I need to dump Octane Booster in it just to keep it running.
>6) You probably have 2 pipes that run from the cat back into the engine. Make
>sure these are connected.
>7) Make sure your preheater hose is not leaking.
>8) After all this, have a mechanic check the choke again.
Thanks I did some nosing around the EGR valve last night and did
notice that it isn't moving when I rev the engine (when warmed up) I
have also noticed that the engine seems hot when shutdown these days
and this could be an EGR that is stuck closed and not quenching the
combustion.
The carb was new/rebuilt I bought it from an after market parts place
(NAPA Motor Parts) The furnace tube is new and has no leaks and the
flapper in the intake responds as it should.... that was one of my
first checks when I started driving this vehicle in the winter. :)
I have recently started running mid grade and it does seem to help
maybe I will step it up a notch if the problems persist, I'm hoping
the Nutter mod I did tonight helps me with my problem, but either way
it seems to have more power. I work for Shell Canada and make gasoline
for a living ...... badly tuned vehicles are something our company
loves :)
>I had the same problem with my 89 YJ. I too have the same blow-by and valve
>cover leaks.
>
>Here are a few things my mechanic and I figured out that worked:
>
>1) Put in a paper air filter. The K&N let in too much air and messes with the
>mixture. Your Dodge dealer set the idle and mixture to factory specs, which is
>with a paper filter.
>2) Check your EGR valve. It should be replaced every 80,000 miles. Make sure
>you have suction at the EGR valve too.
>3) The Air Filter assembly will bend the choke if you put it on too fast.
>Check to see if it is bent. If it is bend you will notice you have to rev it
>alot on cold mornings to keep it from stalling, and it will stall at every stop
>light until it is really warmed up.
>4) did you get a rebuilt carb? 1 out of 2 of the rebuilts tend to be bad.
>Make sure the carb linkage is not greased. They are not meant to be lubed on
>these carbs.
>5) My mechanic told me, that the 258 and carter carb should always use Premium
>Fuel, and it has helped me since I started using it. When I am near the ocean
>I need to dump Octane Booster in it just to keep it running.
>6) You probably have 2 pipes that run from the cat back into the engine. Make
>sure these are connected.
>7) Make sure your preheater hose is not leaking.
>8) After all this, have a mechanic check the choke again.
Thanks I did some nosing around the EGR valve last night and did
notice that it isn't moving when I rev the engine (when warmed up) I
have also noticed that the engine seems hot when shutdown these days
and this could be an EGR that is stuck closed and not quenching the
combustion.
The carb was new/rebuilt I bought it from an after market parts place
(NAPA Motor Parts) The furnace tube is new and has no leaks and the
flapper in the intake responds as it should.... that was one of my
first checks when I started driving this vehicle in the winter. :)
I have recently started running mid grade and it does seem to help
maybe I will step it up a notch if the problems persist, I'm hoping
the Nutter mod I did tonight helps me with my problem, but either way
it seems to have more power. I work for Shell Canada and make gasoline
for a living ...... badly tuned vehicles are something our company
loves :)
12-10-2003, 08:14 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
On 10 Dec 2003 22:41:53 GMT, mark12211@aol.com (Mark12211) wrote:
>I had the same problem with my 89 YJ. I too have the same blow-by and valve
>cover leaks.
>
>Here are a few things my mechanic and I figured out that worked:
>
>1) Put in a paper air filter. The K&N let in too much air and messes with the
>mixture. Your Dodge dealer set the idle and mixture to factory specs, which is
>with a paper filter.
>2) Check your EGR valve. It should be replaced every 80,000 miles. Make sure
>you have suction at the EGR valve too.
>3) The Air Filter assembly will bend the choke if you put it on too fast.
>Check to see if it is bent. If it is bend you will notice you have to rev it
>alot on cold mornings to keep it from stalling, and it will stall at every stop
>light until it is really warmed up.
>4) did you get a rebuilt carb? 1 out of 2 of the rebuilts tend to be bad.
>Make sure the carb linkage is not greased. They are not meant to be lubed on
>these carbs.
>5) My mechanic told me, that the 258 and carter carb should always use Premium
>Fuel, and it has helped me since I started using it. When I am near the ocean
>I need to dump Octane Booster in it just to keep it running.
>6) You probably have 2 pipes that run from the cat back into the engine. Make
>sure these are connected.
>7) Make sure your preheater hose is not leaking.
>8) After all this, have a mechanic check the choke again.
Thanks I did some nosing around the EGR valve last night and did
notice that it isn't moving when I rev the engine (when warmed up) I
have also noticed that the engine seems hot when shutdown these days
and this could be an EGR that is stuck closed and not quenching the
combustion.
The carb was new/rebuilt I bought it from an after market parts place
(NAPA Motor Parts) The furnace tube is new and has no leaks and the
flapper in the intake responds as it should.... that was one of my
first checks when I started driving this vehicle in the winter. :)
I have recently started running mid grade and it does seem to help
maybe I will step it up a notch if the problems persist, I'm hoping
the Nutter mod I did tonight helps me with my problem, but either way
it seems to have more power. I work for Shell Canada and make gasoline
for a living ...... badly tuned vehicles are something our company
loves :)
>I had the same problem with my 89 YJ. I too have the same blow-by and valve
>cover leaks.
>
>Here are a few things my mechanic and I figured out that worked:
>
>1) Put in a paper air filter. The K&N let in too much air and messes with the
>mixture. Your Dodge dealer set the idle and mixture to factory specs, which is
>with a paper filter.
>2) Check your EGR valve. It should be replaced every 80,000 miles. Make sure
>you have suction at the EGR valve too.
>3) The Air Filter assembly will bend the choke if you put it on too fast.
>Check to see if it is bent. If it is bend you will notice you have to rev it
>alot on cold mornings to keep it from stalling, and it will stall at every stop
>light until it is really warmed up.
>4) did you get a rebuilt carb? 1 out of 2 of the rebuilts tend to be bad.
>Make sure the carb linkage is not greased. They are not meant to be lubed on
>these carbs.
>5) My mechanic told me, that the 258 and carter carb should always use Premium
>Fuel, and it has helped me since I started using it. When I am near the ocean
>I need to dump Octane Booster in it just to keep it running.
>6) You probably have 2 pipes that run from the cat back into the engine. Make
>sure these are connected.
>7) Make sure your preheater hose is not leaking.
>8) After all this, have a mechanic check the choke again.
Thanks I did some nosing around the EGR valve last night and did
notice that it isn't moving when I rev the engine (when warmed up) I
have also noticed that the engine seems hot when shutdown these days
and this could be an EGR that is stuck closed and not quenching the
combustion.
The carb was new/rebuilt I bought it from an after market parts place
(NAPA Motor Parts) The furnace tube is new and has no leaks and the
flapper in the intake responds as it should.... that was one of my
first checks when I started driving this vehicle in the winter. :)
I have recently started running mid grade and it does seem to help
maybe I will step it up a notch if the problems persist, I'm hoping
the Nutter mod I did tonight helps me with my problem, but either way
it seems to have more power. I work for Shell Canada and make gasoline
for a living ...... badly tuned vehicles are something our company
loves :)
12-10-2003, 08:14 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
On 10 Dec 2003 22:41:53 GMT, mark12211@aol.com (Mark12211) wrote:
>I had the same problem with my 89 YJ. I too have the same blow-by and valve
>cover leaks.
>
>Here are a few things my mechanic and I figured out that worked:
>
>1) Put in a paper air filter. The K&N let in too much air and messes with the
>mixture. Your Dodge dealer set the idle and mixture to factory specs, which is
>with a paper filter.
>2) Check your EGR valve. It should be replaced every 80,000 miles. Make sure
>you have suction at the EGR valve too.
>3) The Air Filter assembly will bend the choke if you put it on too fast.
>Check to see if it is bent. If it is bend you will notice you have to rev it
>alot on cold mornings to keep it from stalling, and it will stall at every stop
>light until it is really warmed up.
>4) did you get a rebuilt carb? 1 out of 2 of the rebuilts tend to be bad.
>Make sure the carb linkage is not greased. They are not meant to be lubed on
>these carbs.
>5) My mechanic told me, that the 258 and carter carb should always use Premium
>Fuel, and it has helped me since I started using it. When I am near the ocean
>I need to dump Octane Booster in it just to keep it running.
>6) You probably have 2 pipes that run from the cat back into the engine. Make
>sure these are connected.
>7) Make sure your preheater hose is not leaking.
>8) After all this, have a mechanic check the choke again.
Thanks I did some nosing around the EGR valve last night and did
notice that it isn't moving when I rev the engine (when warmed up) I
have also noticed that the engine seems hot when shutdown these days
and this could be an EGR that is stuck closed and not quenching the
combustion.
The carb was new/rebuilt I bought it from an after market parts place
(NAPA Motor Parts) The furnace tube is new and has no leaks and the
flapper in the intake responds as it should.... that was one of my
first checks when I started driving this vehicle in the winter. :)
I have recently started running mid grade and it does seem to help
maybe I will step it up a notch if the problems persist, I'm hoping
the Nutter mod I did tonight helps me with my problem, but either way
it seems to have more power. I work for Shell Canada and make gasoline
for a living ...... badly tuned vehicles are something our company
loves :)
>I had the same problem with my 89 YJ. I too have the same blow-by and valve
>cover leaks.
>
>Here are a few things my mechanic and I figured out that worked:
>
>1) Put in a paper air filter. The K&N let in too much air and messes with the
>mixture. Your Dodge dealer set the idle and mixture to factory specs, which is
>with a paper filter.
>2) Check your EGR valve. It should be replaced every 80,000 miles. Make sure
>you have suction at the EGR valve too.
>3) The Air Filter assembly will bend the choke if you put it on too fast.
>Check to see if it is bent. If it is bend you will notice you have to rev it
>alot on cold mornings to keep it from stalling, and it will stall at every stop
>light until it is really warmed up.
>4) did you get a rebuilt carb? 1 out of 2 of the rebuilts tend to be bad.
>Make sure the carb linkage is not greased. They are not meant to be lubed on
>these carbs.
>5) My mechanic told me, that the 258 and carter carb should always use Premium
>Fuel, and it has helped me since I started using it. When I am near the ocean
>I need to dump Octane Booster in it just to keep it running.
>6) You probably have 2 pipes that run from the cat back into the engine. Make
>sure these are connected.
>7) Make sure your preheater hose is not leaking.
>8) After all this, have a mechanic check the choke again.
Thanks I did some nosing around the EGR valve last night and did
notice that it isn't moving when I rev the engine (when warmed up) I
have also noticed that the engine seems hot when shutdown these days
and this could be an EGR that is stuck closed and not quenching the
combustion.
The carb was new/rebuilt I bought it from an after market parts place
(NAPA Motor Parts) The furnace tube is new and has no leaks and the
flapper in the intake responds as it should.... that was one of my
first checks when I started driving this vehicle in the winter. :)
I have recently started running mid grade and it does seem to help
maybe I will step it up a notch if the problems persist, I'm hoping
the Nutter mod I did tonight helps me with my problem, but either way
it seems to have more power. I work for Shell Canada and make gasoline
for a living ...... badly tuned vehicles are something our company
loves :)
12-10-2003, 08:17 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
Thanks Tookie .... yes I have checked the choke when cold, it snaps
shut when I move the throttle and allows the fast idle cam to release
the linkage.
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 00:21:23 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>I
>If it starts fine when you leave a heater under the hood, you can
>forget about checking for leaks. You have a problem with your choke.
>Drive it around one evening enough to warm it up. Park it overnight,
>in the morning (or even better, when you park it) remove the air
>cleaner so that you can see into the top of the carb. Now, while
>looking down into the top, move the throttle linkage with your hand.
>(Give it some gas) You should see the choke plate snap shut.
>It looks like a little round baffle, blocking the airflow into the
>carb. If this plate doesn't close when you move the throttle linkage,
>the choke is not working.
> If you take off the air cleaner in the morning, be sure not to hit
>the throttle before you can watch it, or you won't see it when it
>moves.
> Good luck,
> and let us know what you find
>
>
>Tookie
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
shut when I move the throttle and allows the fast idle cam to release
the linkage.
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 00:21:23 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>I
>If it starts fine when you leave a heater under the hood, you can
>forget about checking for leaks. You have a problem with your choke.
>Drive it around one evening enough to warm it up. Park it overnight,
>in the morning (or even better, when you park it) remove the air
>cleaner so that you can see into the top of the carb. Now, while
>looking down into the top, move the throttle linkage with your hand.
>(Give it some gas) You should see the choke plate snap shut.
>It looks like a little round baffle, blocking the airflow into the
>carb. If this plate doesn't close when you move the throttle linkage,
>the choke is not working.
> If you take off the air cleaner in the morning, be sure not to hit
>the throttle before you can watch it, or you won't see it when it
>moves.
> Good luck,
> and let us know what you find
>
>
>Tookie
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
12-10-2003, 08:17 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
Thanks Tookie .... yes I have checked the choke when cold, it snaps
shut when I move the throttle and allows the fast idle cam to release
the linkage.
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 00:21:23 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>I
>If it starts fine when you leave a heater under the hood, you can
>forget about checking for leaks. You have a problem with your choke.
>Drive it around one evening enough to warm it up. Park it overnight,
>in the morning (or even better, when you park it) remove the air
>cleaner so that you can see into the top of the carb. Now, while
>looking down into the top, move the throttle linkage with your hand.
>(Give it some gas) You should see the choke plate snap shut.
>It looks like a little round baffle, blocking the airflow into the
>carb. If this plate doesn't close when you move the throttle linkage,
>the choke is not working.
> If you take off the air cleaner in the morning, be sure not to hit
>the throttle before you can watch it, or you won't see it when it
>moves.
> Good luck,
> and let us know what you find
>
>
>Tookie
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
shut when I move the throttle and allows the fast idle cam to release
the linkage.
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 00:21:23 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>I
>If it starts fine when you leave a heater under the hood, you can
>forget about checking for leaks. You have a problem with your choke.
>Drive it around one evening enough to warm it up. Park it overnight,
>in the morning (or even better, when you park it) remove the air
>cleaner so that you can see into the top of the carb. Now, while
>looking down into the top, move the throttle linkage with your hand.
>(Give it some gas) You should see the choke plate snap shut.
>It looks like a little round baffle, blocking the airflow into the
>carb. If this plate doesn't close when you move the throttle linkage,
>the choke is not working.
> If you take off the air cleaner in the morning, be sure not to hit
>the throttle before you can watch it, or you won't see it when it
>moves.
> Good luck,
> and let us know what you find
>
>
>Tookie
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
12-10-2003, 08:17 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
Thanks Tookie .... yes I have checked the choke when cold, it snaps
shut when I move the throttle and allows the fast idle cam to release
the linkage.
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 00:21:23 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>I
>If it starts fine when you leave a heater under the hood, you can
>forget about checking for leaks. You have a problem with your choke.
>Drive it around one evening enough to warm it up. Park it overnight,
>in the morning (or even better, when you park it) remove the air
>cleaner so that you can see into the top of the carb. Now, while
>looking down into the top, move the throttle linkage with your hand.
>(Give it some gas) You should see the choke plate snap shut.
>It looks like a little round baffle, blocking the airflow into the
>carb. If this plate doesn't close when you move the throttle linkage,
>the choke is not working.
> If you take off the air cleaner in the morning, be sure not to hit
>the throttle before you can watch it, or you won't see it when it
>moves.
> Good luck,
> and let us know what you find
>
>
>Tookie
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
shut when I move the throttle and allows the fast idle cam to release
the linkage.
http://members.shaw.ca/kb57/jeep.htm
On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 00:21:23 GMT, tookie_nospam@***.net (Tookie )
wrote:
>I
>If it starts fine when you leave a heater under the hood, you can
>forget about checking for leaks. You have a problem with your choke.
>Drive it around one evening enough to warm it up. Park it overnight,
>in the morning (or even better, when you park it) remove the air
>cleaner so that you can see into the top of the carb. Now, while
>looking down into the top, move the throttle linkage with your hand.
>(Give it some gas) You should see the choke plate snap shut.
>It looks like a little round baffle, blocking the airflow into the
>carb. If this plate doesn't close when you move the throttle linkage,
>the choke is not working.
> If you take off the air cleaner in the morning, be sure not to hit
>the throttle before you can watch it, or you won't see it when it
>moves.
> Good luck,
> and let us know what you find
>
>
>Tookie
>Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
>88YJ,"Money Hungry"
>4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights
>PosiLock, 4.10s
