87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
12-09-2003, 09:33 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
would only appear during the colder weather?
Thanks
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Hmmmm....
>
>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>guess.
>
>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>line by letting air in when it is off.
>
>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>> out the valve cover.
>>
>> New Parts I have installed:
>> Starter
>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>> Timing chain and gears
>> O2 sensor
>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>> PCV valve
>> K&N Air filter
>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>
>> Things I have done:
>>
>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>> problem.
>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>
>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>
>> EGR valve stuck open?
>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>> Computer?
>>
>> TIA
would only appear during the colder weather?
Thanks
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Hmmmm....
>
>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>guess.
>
>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>line by letting air in when it is off.
>
>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>> out the valve cover.
>>
>> New Parts I have installed:
>> Starter
>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>> Timing chain and gears
>> O2 sensor
>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>> PCV valve
>> K&N Air filter
>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>
>> Things I have done:
>>
>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>> problem.
>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>
>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>
>> EGR valve stuck open?
>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>> Computer?
>>
>> TIA
12-09-2003, 09:33 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
would only appear during the colder weather?
Thanks
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Hmmmm....
>
>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>guess.
>
>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>line by letting air in when it is off.
>
>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>> out the valve cover.
>>
>> New Parts I have installed:
>> Starter
>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>> Timing chain and gears
>> O2 sensor
>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>> PCV valve
>> K&N Air filter
>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>
>> Things I have done:
>>
>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>> problem.
>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>
>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>
>> EGR valve stuck open?
>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>> Computer?
>>
>> TIA
would only appear during the colder weather?
Thanks
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Hmmmm....
>
>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>guess.
>
>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>line by letting air in when it is off.
>
>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>> out the valve cover.
>>
>> New Parts I have installed:
>> Starter
>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>> Timing chain and gears
>> O2 sensor
>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>> PCV valve
>> K&N Air filter
>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>
>> Things I have done:
>>
>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>> problem.
>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>
>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>
>> EGR valve stuck open?
>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>> Computer?
>>
>> TIA
12-09-2003, 09:33 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
would only appear during the colder weather?
Thanks
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Hmmmm....
>
>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>guess.
>
>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>line by letting air in when it is off.
>
>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>> out the valve cover.
>>
>> New Parts I have installed:
>> Starter
>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>> Timing chain and gears
>> O2 sensor
>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>> PCV valve
>> K&N Air filter
>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>
>> Things I have done:
>>
>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>> problem.
>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>
>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>
>> EGR valve stuck open?
>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>> Computer?
>>
>> TIA
would only appear during the colder weather?
Thanks
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Hmmmm....
>
>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>guess.
>
>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>line by letting air in when it is off.
>
>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>> out the valve cover.
>>
>> New Parts I have installed:
>> Starter
>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>> Timing chain and gears
>> O2 sensor
>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>> PCV valve
>> K&N Air filter
>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>
>> Things I have done:
>>
>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>> problem.
>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>
>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>
>> EGR valve stuck open?
>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>> Computer?
>>
>> TIA
12-09-2003, 09:47 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
Check the rubber lines close.....
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
> would only appear during the colder weather?
>
> Thanks
>
> On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Hmmmm....
> >
> >Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
> >guess.
> >
> >This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
> >line by letting air in when it is off.
> >
> >I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
> >pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
> >clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
> >> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
> >> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
> >> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
> >> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
> >> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
> >> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
> >> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
> >> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
> >> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
> >> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
> >> out the valve cover.
> >>
> >> New Parts I have installed:
> >> Starter
> >> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
> >> Timing chain and gears
> >> O2 sensor
> >> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
> >> Plugs wires cap and rotor
> >> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
> >> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
> >> PCV valve
> >> K&N Air filter
> >> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
> >>
> >> Things I have done:
> >>
> >> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
> >> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
> >> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
> >> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
> >> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
> >> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
> >> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
> >> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
> >> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
> >> problem.
> >> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
> >> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
> >> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
> >> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
> >> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
> >> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
> >> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
> >> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
> >>
> >> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
> >> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
> >> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
> >> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
> >> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
> >>
> >> EGR valve stuck open?
> >> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
> >> Computer?
> >>
> >> TIA
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
> would only appear during the colder weather?
>
> Thanks
>
> On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Hmmmm....
> >
> >Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
> >guess.
> >
> >This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
> >line by letting air in when it is off.
> >
> >I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
> >pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
> >clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
> >> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
> >> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
> >> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
> >> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
> >> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
> >> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
> >> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
> >> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
> >> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
> >> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
> >> out the valve cover.
> >>
> >> New Parts I have installed:
> >> Starter
> >> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
> >> Timing chain and gears
> >> O2 sensor
> >> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
> >> Plugs wires cap and rotor
> >> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
> >> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
> >> PCV valve
> >> K&N Air filter
> >> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
> >>
> >> Things I have done:
> >>
> >> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
> >> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
> >> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
> >> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
> >> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
> >> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
> >> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
> >> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
> >> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
> >> problem.
> >> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
> >> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
> >> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
> >> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
> >> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
> >> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
> >> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
> >> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
> >>
> >> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
> >> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
> >> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
> >> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
> >> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
> >>
> >> EGR valve stuck open?
> >> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
> >> Computer?
> >>
> >> TIA
12-09-2003, 09:47 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
Check the rubber lines close.....
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
> would only appear during the colder weather?
>
> Thanks
>
> On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Hmmmm....
> >
> >Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
> >guess.
> >
> >This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
> >line by letting air in when it is off.
> >
> >I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
> >pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
> >clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
> >> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
> >> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
> >> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
> >> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
> >> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
> >> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
> >> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
> >> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
> >> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
> >> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
> >> out the valve cover.
> >>
> >> New Parts I have installed:
> >> Starter
> >> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
> >> Timing chain and gears
> >> O2 sensor
> >> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
> >> Plugs wires cap and rotor
> >> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
> >> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
> >> PCV valve
> >> K&N Air filter
> >> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
> >>
> >> Things I have done:
> >>
> >> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
> >> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
> >> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
> >> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
> >> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
> >> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
> >> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
> >> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
> >> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
> >> problem.
> >> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
> >> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
> >> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
> >> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
> >> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
> >> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
> >> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
> >> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
> >>
> >> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
> >> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
> >> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
> >> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
> >> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
> >>
> >> EGR valve stuck open?
> >> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
> >> Computer?
> >>
> >> TIA
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
> would only appear during the colder weather?
>
> Thanks
>
> On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Hmmmm....
> >
> >Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
> >guess.
> >
> >This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
> >line by letting air in when it is off.
> >
> >I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
> >pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
> >clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
> >> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
> >> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
> >> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
> >> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
> >> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
> >> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
> >> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
> >> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
> >> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
> >> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
> >> out the valve cover.
> >>
> >> New Parts I have installed:
> >> Starter
> >> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
> >> Timing chain and gears
> >> O2 sensor
> >> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
> >> Plugs wires cap and rotor
> >> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
> >> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
> >> PCV valve
> >> K&N Air filter
> >> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
> >>
> >> Things I have done:
> >>
> >> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
> >> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
> >> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
> >> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
> >> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
> >> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
> >> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
> >> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
> >> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
> >> problem.
> >> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
> >> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
> >> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
> >> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
> >> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
> >> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
> >> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
> >> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
> >>
> >> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
> >> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
> >> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
> >> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
> >> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
> >>
> >> EGR valve stuck open?
> >> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
> >> Computer?
> >>
> >> TIA
12-09-2003, 09:47 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
Check the rubber lines close.....
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
> would only appear during the colder weather?
>
> Thanks
>
> On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Hmmmm....
> >
> >Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
> >guess.
> >
> >This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
> >line by letting air in when it is off.
> >
> >I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
> >pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
> >clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
> >> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
> >> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
> >> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
> >> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
> >> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
> >> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
> >> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
> >> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
> >> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
> >> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
> >> out the valve cover.
> >>
> >> New Parts I have installed:
> >> Starter
> >> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
> >> Timing chain and gears
> >> O2 sensor
> >> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
> >> Plugs wires cap and rotor
> >> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
> >> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
> >> PCV valve
> >> K&N Air filter
> >> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
> >>
> >> Things I have done:
> >>
> >> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
> >> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
> >> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
> >> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
> >> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
> >> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
> >> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
> >> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
> >> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
> >> problem.
> >> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
> >> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
> >> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
> >> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
> >> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
> >> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
> >> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
> >> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
> >>
> >> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
> >> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
> >> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
> >> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
> >> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
> >>
> >> EGR valve stuck open?
> >> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
> >> Computer?
> >>
> >> TIA
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
> would only appear during the colder weather?
>
> Thanks
>
> On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Hmmmm....
> >
> >Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
> >guess.
> >
> >This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
> >line by letting air in when it is off.
> >
> >I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
> >pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
> >clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
> >> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
> >> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
> >> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
> >> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
> >> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
> >> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
> >> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
> >> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
> >> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
> >> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
> >> out the valve cover.
> >>
> >> New Parts I have installed:
> >> Starter
> >> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
> >> Timing chain and gears
> >> O2 sensor
> >> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
> >> Plugs wires cap and rotor
> >> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
> >> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
> >> PCV valve
> >> K&N Air filter
> >> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
> >>
> >> Things I have done:
> >>
> >> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
> >> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
> >> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
> >> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
> >> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
> >> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
> >> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
> >> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
> >> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
> >> problem.
> >> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
> >> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
> >> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
> >> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
> >> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
> >> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
> >> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
> >> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
> >>
> >> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
> >> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
> >> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
> >> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
> >> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
> >>
> >> EGR valve stuck open?
> >> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
> >> Computer?
> >>
> >> TIA
12-10-2003, 01:41 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
I got under it tonight with a halogen light and traced the fuel line
from the fuel pump back to the tank unfortunatley I didn't find any
signs of a leak. A few of the connections were standard hose clamps
and others were the stock plier types, I intend to go over and tighen
each of the clamps and replace the stock clamps on my next days off.
I'm wondering if I should take the computer out of the loop and reset
the timing and mixture, maybe it's a stepper motor problem. This will
be untested grounds for me as I have never played with carbs much ( my
father was the carb guy and he unfortunaley passed away 2 years ago)
but I figure as long as I make note of the idle screw settings I can
always put the computer back online if needed.
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:33:02 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
>would only appear during the colder weather?
>
>Thanks
>
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>wrote:
>
>>Hmmmm....
>>
>>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>>guess.
>>
>>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>>line by letting air in when it is off.
>>
>>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Jeepster wrote:
>>>
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>>>
>>> New Parts I have installed:
>>> Starter
>>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>>> Timing chain and gears
>>> O2 sensor
>>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>>> PCV valve
>>> K&N Air filter
>>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>>
>>> Things I have done:
>>>
>>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>>> problem.
>>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>>
>>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>>
>>> EGR valve stuck open?
>>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>>> Computer?
>>>
>>> TIA
from the fuel pump back to the tank unfortunatley I didn't find any
signs of a leak. A few of the connections were standard hose clamps
and others were the stock plier types, I intend to go over and tighen
each of the clamps and replace the stock clamps on my next days off.
I'm wondering if I should take the computer out of the loop and reset
the timing and mixture, maybe it's a stepper motor problem. This will
be untested grounds for me as I have never played with carbs much ( my
father was the carb guy and he unfortunaley passed away 2 years ago)
but I figure as long as I make note of the idle screw settings I can
always put the computer back online if needed.
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:33:02 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
>would only appear during the colder weather?
>
>Thanks
>
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>wrote:
>
>>Hmmmm....
>>
>>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>>guess.
>>
>>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>>line by letting air in when it is off.
>>
>>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Jeepster wrote:
>>>
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>>>
>>> New Parts I have installed:
>>> Starter
>>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>>> Timing chain and gears
>>> O2 sensor
>>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>>> PCV valve
>>> K&N Air filter
>>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>>
>>> Things I have done:
>>>
>>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>>> problem.
>>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>>
>>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>>
>>> EGR valve stuck open?
>>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>>> Computer?
>>>
>>> TIA
12-10-2003, 01:41 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
I got under it tonight with a halogen light and traced the fuel line
from the fuel pump back to the tank unfortunatley I didn't find any
signs of a leak. A few of the connections were standard hose clamps
and others were the stock plier types, I intend to go over and tighen
each of the clamps and replace the stock clamps on my next days off.
I'm wondering if I should take the computer out of the loop and reset
the timing and mixture, maybe it's a stepper motor problem. This will
be untested grounds for me as I have never played with carbs much ( my
father was the carb guy and he unfortunaley passed away 2 years ago)
but I figure as long as I make note of the idle screw settings I can
always put the computer back online if needed.
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:33:02 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
>would only appear during the colder weather?
>
>Thanks
>
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>wrote:
>
>>Hmmmm....
>>
>>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>>guess.
>>
>>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>>line by letting air in when it is off.
>>
>>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Jeepster wrote:
>>>
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>>>
>>> New Parts I have installed:
>>> Starter
>>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>>> Timing chain and gears
>>> O2 sensor
>>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>>> PCV valve
>>> K&N Air filter
>>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>>
>>> Things I have done:
>>>
>>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>>> problem.
>>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>>
>>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>>
>>> EGR valve stuck open?
>>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>>> Computer?
>>>
>>> TIA
from the fuel pump back to the tank unfortunatley I didn't find any
signs of a leak. A few of the connections were standard hose clamps
and others were the stock plier types, I intend to go over and tighen
each of the clamps and replace the stock clamps on my next days off.
I'm wondering if I should take the computer out of the loop and reset
the timing and mixture, maybe it's a stepper motor problem. This will
be untested grounds for me as I have never played with carbs much ( my
father was the carb guy and he unfortunaley passed away 2 years ago)
but I figure as long as I make note of the idle screw settings I can
always put the computer back online if needed.
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:33:02 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
>would only appear during the colder weather?
>
>Thanks
>
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>wrote:
>
>>Hmmmm....
>>
>>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>>guess.
>>
>>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>>line by letting air in when it is off.
>>
>>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Jeepster wrote:
>>>
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>>>
>>> New Parts I have installed:
>>> Starter
>>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>>> Timing chain and gears
>>> O2 sensor
>>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>>> PCV valve
>>> K&N Air filter
>>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>>
>>> Things I have done:
>>>
>>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>>> problem.
>>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>>
>>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>>
>>> EGR valve stuck open?
>>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>>> Computer?
>>>
>>> TIA
12-10-2003, 01:41 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
I got under it tonight with a halogen light and traced the fuel line
from the fuel pump back to the tank unfortunatley I didn't find any
signs of a leak. A few of the connections were standard hose clamps
and others were the stock plier types, I intend to go over and tighen
each of the clamps and replace the stock clamps on my next days off.
I'm wondering if I should take the computer out of the loop and reset
the timing and mixture, maybe it's a stepper motor problem. This will
be untested grounds for me as I have never played with carbs much ( my
father was the carb guy and he unfortunaley passed away 2 years ago)
but I figure as long as I make note of the idle screw settings I can
always put the computer back online if needed.
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:33:02 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
>would only appear during the colder weather?
>
>Thanks
>
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>wrote:
>
>>Hmmmm....
>>
>>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>>guess.
>>
>>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>>line by letting air in when it is off.
>>
>>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Jeepster wrote:
>>>
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>>>
>>> New Parts I have installed:
>>> Starter
>>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>>> Timing chain and gears
>>> O2 sensor
>>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>>> PCV valve
>>> K&N Air filter
>>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>>
>>> Things I have done:
>>>
>>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>>> problem.
>>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>>
>>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>>
>>> EGR valve stuck open?
>>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>>> Computer?
>>>
>>> TIA
from the fuel pump back to the tank unfortunatley I didn't find any
signs of a leak. A few of the connections were standard hose clamps
and others were the stock plier types, I intend to go over and tighen
each of the clamps and replace the stock clamps on my next days off.
I'm wondering if I should take the computer out of the loop and reset
the timing and mixture, maybe it's a stepper motor problem. This will
be untested grounds for me as I have never played with carbs much ( my
father was the carb guy and he unfortunaley passed away 2 years ago)
but I figure as long as I make note of the idle screw settings I can
always put the computer back online if needed.
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:33:02 -0700, Jeepster <me@excite.com> wrote:
>I will take a look for that ..... but would this be a problem that
>would only appear during the colder weather?
>
>Thanks
>
>On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:57:53 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>wrote:
>
>>Hmmmm....
>>
>>Pinhole leak in the gas line on the suction side of the pump is my wild
>>guess.
>>
>>This will not drip on the ground, but is big enough to empty the gas
>>line by letting air in when it is off.
>>
>>I would be checking the line visually and be looking for a stain on the
>>pipe. Normally I see it at the back clamp to the frame or at the front
>>clamp to the frame where the rubber hoses hook on.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>>Jeepster wrote:
>>>
>>> Maybe the experts here might be able to solve a problem with my 4.2 87
>>> YJ, it is a beast to start in cold weather but starts fine after it
>>> has been warmed up. I have had it to the "experts" several times and
>>> so far they have solved nothing! When I take it to work I have
>>> actually resorted to putting a ceramic heater under the hood, when I
>>> do this it usually fires up just fine this has got to be telling me
>>> something. (Northern Canada is where I live and it can get quite cold
>>> here) Maybe this beast doesn't need to be choked when started?
>>> The engine has 250K km on it and experiences some blow by which would
>>> be expected, but damn I can still get it up to 130 km/h on the highway
>>> and the only oil that it uses is what it blows back or what it leaks
>>> out the valve cover.
>>>
>>> New Parts I have installed:
>>> Starter
>>> Carter carb ( 1 month old)
>>> Timing chain and gears
>>> O2 sensor
>>> Battery and starter including new heavy duty 1 guage wires
>>> Plugs wires cap and rotor
>>> Fuel pump / Fuel filter
>>> (vent on top ....considering getting a non vented filter?)
>>> PCV valve
>>> K&N Air filter
>>> Most vac hoses replaced and checked for leaks
>>>
>>> Things I have done:
>>>
>>> The beast always pinged when the timing was set correctly and I found
>>> it was over advancing due to the vac advance being hooked up to
>>> manifold vacuum, I switched it over to ported and was finally able to
>>> set the timing where I could get some top end out of it.
>>> I have set the choke anywhere from fully closed to just cracked open
>>> (done when engine had sat over night) The choke appears to be working
>>> ok as it will close off when it cools down and slowly open after a
>>> successful start. The idle screws were set by the Dodge dealership
>>> mechanic and I'm starting to wonder if this might be part of the
>>> problem.
>>> I checked the carb heater when I had the carb off and I have
>>> actually wired it to a switch recently, I turn on the key and switch
>>> on the heater for about 2 minutes then try to start....most times this
>>> seems to help but I shouldn't have to be doing this.
>>> The block heater works and I even installed an inline heater, I
>>> realize that the inline doesn't actually circulate because the t-stat
>>> will be closed but it does help to get warm air circulating fast. (I
>>> did the Chevy heater fan mod on this YJ....best $40 I ever spent)
>>>
>>> I'm no mechanic but I do dabble a bit, this vehicle is giving me fits,
>>> I have considered several other options like the Nutter bypass or
>>> putting in a new Ignition Module but I'm hoping someone here might
>>> have some ideas. Here are several things I haven't checked and I'm not
>>> sure if they would have any bearing on my problem but here goes.
>>>
>>> EGR valve stuck open?
>>> Cannister malfunctioning / plugged?
>>> Computer?
>>>
>>> TIA
12-10-2003, 05:41 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)
I had the same problem with my 89 YJ. I too have the same blow-by and valve
cover leaks.
Here are a few things my mechanic and I figured out that worked:
1) Put in a paper air filter. The K&N let in too much air and messes with the
mixture. Your Dodge dealer set the idle and mixture to factory specs, which is
with a paper filter.
2) Check your EGR valve. It should be replaced every 80,000 miles. Make sure
you have suction at the EGR valve too.
3) The Air Filter assembly will bend the choke if you put it on too fast.
Check to see if it is bent. If it is bend you will notice you have to rev it
alot on cold mornings to keep it from stalling, and it will stall at every stop
light until it is really warmed up.
4) did you get a rebuilt carb? 1 out of 2 of the rebuilts tend to be bad.
Make sure the carb linkage is not greased. They are not meant to be lubed on
these carbs.
5) My mechanic told me, that the 258 and carter carb should always use Premium
Fuel, and it has helped me since I started using it. When I am near the ocean
I need to dump Octane Booster in it just to keep it running.
6) You probably have 2 pipes that run from the cat back into the engine. Make
sure these are connected.
7) Make sure your preheater hose is not leaking.
8) After all this, have a mechanic check the choke again.
cover leaks.
Here are a few things my mechanic and I figured out that worked:
1) Put in a paper air filter. The K&N let in too much air and messes with the
mixture. Your Dodge dealer set the idle and mixture to factory specs, which is
with a paper filter.
2) Check your EGR valve. It should be replaced every 80,000 miles. Make sure
you have suction at the EGR valve too.
3) The Air Filter assembly will bend the choke if you put it on too fast.
Check to see if it is bent. If it is bend you will notice you have to rev it
alot on cold mornings to keep it from stalling, and it will stall at every stop
light until it is really warmed up.
4) did you get a rebuilt carb? 1 out of 2 of the rebuilts tend to be bad.
Make sure the carb linkage is not greased. They are not meant to be lubed on
these carbs.
5) My mechanic told me, that the 258 and carter carb should always use Premium
Fuel, and it has helped me since I started using it. When I am near the ocean
I need to dump Octane Booster in it just to keep it running.
6) You probably have 2 pipes that run from the cat back into the engine. Make
sure these are connected.
7) Make sure your preheater hose is not leaking.
8) After all this, have a mechanic check the choke again.
