thanks Mike - i will attend to the idle tubes today or tomorrow and let
you know what happens - i appreciate all the free advice - i'd like to
start drivin this thing thru the, soon to be, springtime mud!
cheers,
bennett

 

thanks Mike - i will attend to the idle tubes today or tomorrow and let
you know what happens - i appreciate all the free advice - i'd like to
start drivin this thing thru the, soon to be, springtime mud!
cheers,
bennett

 

well after a brief moment of triumph it appears that my joy was
premature... i removed the venturi cluster and cleaned out the idle
tubes, they were in fact dripping at idle and there was quite alot of
crud in them and in the 2 screws. i also cleaned out the gas feed line
from the fuel filter to the carb just for good measure. since it was
nightime by then and i didnt have my jumper cables handy i let it sit
till the next day, when happily, it started up - not such a surprise as
it reliably starts when cold - but then continued to start up all day
long - the idle was high (about 1000rpm sometimes sticking up at around
1500 and blipping the throttle only worked to bring it down about 1/2
the time) and when starting it seemed a bit reluctant for about 1/2 a
second but then it would fire right up and run great. no stalls no
rough running no hiccups etc.
then last night i had a date (uhhh oh...) and of course - no start. she
(the jeep that is) had sat for about 3-4 hours at this point so i was
surprised (she's supposed to start up and THEN leave me stranded with
my date looking on - jealousy is so ugly) anyway i cranked it
periodically until the batt ran down then hooked up jumper cables but
all to no avail... it didnt even sound like there was any spark at
all... i dont think the motor ever even fired once, although it seemed
to diesel for about 1/4 second once or twice after about 20 seconds of
continuous cranking (didnt want to kill the starter motor).
i had a couple of tablespoons of gas left in a gas can, so i tried
pouring that into the barrel of the carb - no difference. tried
cracking the gas cap and pulling the vent line to the carb float bowl -
nope. since it was nightime and i was in clean clothes and had even
scraped all the oil out from under my fingernails in anticipation of
some serious making out and since - oddly enough - i didnt have a spare
spark plug in my pocket, i wasnt able to see if there was in fact any
spark at all. today i'm gonna have to wait until i can get someone over
to jump me to find out...
in the meantime, anyone have any bright ideas about this? i'm beginning
to lean toward a problem on the ignition side of things but honestly i
have no idea. today i plan to test the coil, and pull the Ignition
Control Module and bring it in to NAPA - they say they can test it...
i've been trolling some previous posts and there was a very similiar
case to mine (averyislandboy, Bob V, from back in Oct 2003 - sorry i
dont know how to hotlink here) - his symptoms were similiar if not
identical and he apparently resolved them by purchasing a new - what he
calls - ECM, by which i take to mean ICM - Ignition Control Module;
that is opposed to the ECU - the Electronic Control Unit. i assume he's
referring to the ICM based on the implied location of said module, in
the engine compartment... (vs ECU in the passenger compartment) and
from the details of his post. can anyone clarify this? Bob, you out
there?
seems to me that if the master brain box - the ECU - was bad the Jeep
wouldnt run at all as opposed to intermittently...
well i suppose i can take the ICM out and have it tested anyway... i
will let all of you know what happens.
i am interested to know, Bob if you're still out there - did the
problem ever reappear or did the new ICM (ECU?) fix it completely?

thanks for all the help,
bennett

PS i am seriously considering pulling the choke circuit as well and
replacing it with a manual choke... and when i have the money trashing
the Carter and going to a Weber set up. how bout a replacement for the
ignition circuit? what's the inside scoop with that?

PPS does the 87 YJ 4.2L have a Crank Position Sensor?

sorry for the barrage of questions... thanks for all your patience.
b

 

well after a brief moment of triumph it appears that my joy was
premature... i removed the venturi cluster and cleaned out the idle
tubes, they were in fact dripping at idle and there was quite alot of
crud in them and in the 2 screws. i also cleaned out the gas feed line
from the fuel filter to the carb just for good measure. since it was
nightime by then and i didnt have my jumper cables handy i let it sit
till the next day, when happily, it started up - not such a surprise as
it reliably starts when cold - but then continued to start up all day
long - the idle was high (about 1000rpm sometimes sticking up at around
1500 and blipping the throttle only worked to bring it down about 1/2
the time) and when starting it seemed a bit reluctant for about 1/2 a
second but then it would fire right up and run great. no stalls no
rough running no hiccups etc.
then last night i had a date (uhhh oh...) and of course - no start. she
(the jeep that is) had sat for about 3-4 hours at this point so i was
surprised (she's supposed to start up and THEN leave me stranded with
my date looking on - jealousy is so ugly) anyway i cranked it
periodically until the batt ran down then hooked up jumper cables but
all to no avail... it didnt even sound like there was any spark at
all... i dont think the motor ever even fired once, although it seemed
to diesel for about 1/4 second once or twice after about 20 seconds of
continuous cranking (didnt want to kill the starter motor).
i had a couple of tablespoons of gas left in a gas can, so i tried
pouring that into the barrel of the carb - no difference. tried
cracking the gas cap and pulling the vent line to the carb float bowl -
nope. since it was nightime and i was in clean clothes and had even
scraped all the oil out from under my fingernails in anticipation of
some serious making out and since - oddly enough - i didnt have a spare
spark plug in my pocket, i wasnt able to see if there was in fact any
spark at all. today i'm gonna have to wait until i can get someone over
to jump me to find out...
in the meantime, anyone have any bright ideas about this? i'm beginning
to lean toward a problem on the ignition side of things but honestly i
have no idea. today i plan to test the coil, and pull the Ignition
Control Module and bring it in to NAPA - they say they can test it...
i've been trolling some previous posts and there was a very similiar
case to mine (averyislandboy, Bob V, from back in Oct 2003 - sorry i
dont know how to hotlink here) - his symptoms were similiar if not
identical and he apparently resolved them by purchasing a new - what he
calls - ECM, by which i take to mean ICM - Ignition Control Module;
that is opposed to the ECU - the Electronic Control Unit. i assume he's
referring to the ICM based on the implied location of said module, in
the engine compartment... (vs ECU in the passenger compartment) and
from the details of his post. can anyone clarify this? Bob, you out
there?
seems to me that if the master brain box - the ECU - was bad the Jeep
wouldnt run at all as opposed to intermittently...
well i suppose i can take the ICM out and have it tested anyway... i
will let all of you know what happens.
i am interested to know, Bob if you're still out there - did the
problem ever reappear or did the new ICM (ECU?) fix it completely?

thanks for all the help,
bennett

PS i am seriously considering pulling the choke circuit as well and
replacing it with a manual choke... and when i have the money trashing
the Carter and going to a Weber set up. how bout a replacement for the
ignition circuit? what's the inside scoop with that?

PPS does the 87 YJ 4.2L have a Crank Position Sensor?

sorry for the barrage of questions... thanks for all your patience.
b

 

well after a brief moment of triumph it appears that my joy was
premature... i removed the venturi cluster and cleaned out the idle
tubes, they were in fact dripping at idle and there was quite alot of
crud in them and in the 2 screws. i also cleaned out the gas feed line
from the fuel filter to the carb just for good measure. since it was
nightime by then and i didnt have my jumper cables handy i let it sit
till the next day, when happily, it started up - not such a surprise as
it reliably starts when cold - but then continued to start up all day
long - the idle was high (about 1000rpm sometimes sticking up at around
1500 and blipping the throttle only worked to bring it down about 1/2
the time) and when starting it seemed a bit reluctant for about 1/2 a
second but then it would fire right up and run great. no stalls no
rough running no hiccups etc.
then last night i had a date (uhhh oh...) and of course - no start. she
(the jeep that is) had sat for about 3-4 hours at this point so i was
surprised (she's supposed to start up and THEN leave me stranded with
my date looking on - jealousy is so ugly) anyway i cranked it
periodically until the batt ran down then hooked up jumper cables but
all to no avail... it didnt even sound like there was any spark at
all... i dont think the motor ever even fired once, although it seemed
to diesel for about 1/4 second once or twice after about 20 seconds of
continuous cranking (didnt want to kill the starter motor).
i had a couple of tablespoons of gas left in a gas can, so i tried
pouring that into the barrel of the carb - no difference. tried
cracking the gas cap and pulling the vent line to the carb float bowl -
nope. since it was nightime and i was in clean clothes and had even
scraped all the oil out from under my fingernails in anticipation of
some serious making out and since - oddly enough - i didnt have a spare
spark plug in my pocket, i wasnt able to see if there was in fact any
spark at all. today i'm gonna have to wait until i can get someone over
to jump me to find out...
in the meantime, anyone have any bright ideas about this? i'm beginning
to lean toward a problem on the ignition side of things but honestly i
have no idea. today i plan to test the coil, and pull the Ignition
Control Module and bring it in to NAPA - they say they can test it...
i've been trolling some previous posts and there was a very similiar
case to mine (averyislandboy, Bob V, from back in Oct 2003 - sorry i
dont know how to hotlink here) - his symptoms were similiar if not
identical and he apparently resolved them by purchasing a new - what he
calls - ECM, by which i take to mean ICM - Ignition Control Module;
that is opposed to the ECU - the Electronic Control Unit. i assume he's
referring to the ICM based on the implied location of said module, in
the engine compartment... (vs ECU in the passenger compartment) and
from the details of his post. can anyone clarify this? Bob, you out
there?
seems to me that if the master brain box - the ECU - was bad the Jeep
wouldnt run at all as opposed to intermittently...
well i suppose i can take the ICM out and have it tested anyway... i
will let all of you know what happens.
i am interested to know, Bob if you're still out there - did the
problem ever reappear or did the new ICM (ECU?) fix it completely?

thanks for all the help,
bennett

PS i am seriously considering pulling the choke circuit as well and
replacing it with a manual choke... and when i have the money trashing
the Carter and going to a Weber set up. how bout a replacement for the
ignition circuit? what's the inside scoop with that?

PPS does the 87 YJ 4.2L have a Crank Position Sensor?

sorry for the barrage of questions... thanks for all your patience.
b

 

Ouch.

Ok, you seem to have more than one thing going on. First off only
kicking the idle down about half the time is a linkage thing. Likely
the choke linkage pieces and the fast idle cam need some oil. I
actually use WD40 on them because it cleans the crud out without leaving
too much behind. If I have, I will use carb cleaner on those parts
too. That also might indicate a dirty connection on the electric choke
not allowing it to open fully.

They even get dirty enough that the choke seizes up. When you checked
it to pour in the gas, was the choke closed? It should have been. If
not, the linkage needs serious cleaning. They like to seize up right
where the choke electric module's shaft comes out.

A bad ignition module can be some of your trouble for sure. When
getting one stay far far away from the Wells unit. They come dead in
the box more often than they come good. Seriously, they have screwed up
something serious in them. If you can find a motorcraft one it would be
the best.

At least you have no CPS to worry about...

The coil pickup in the distributor also can go bad. You can check it
with a multimeter. It should read between 400 to 800 ohms. Mine was a
failed unit at about 415 ohms...

I would be checking the inside of the distributor cap also for crud or
carbon tracks. That can affect starting. There also is a bad batch of
them on the market. The rotors are too short so they arc out all over
the place.

Did you get the carb screws back the same as they were?

One last gotcha is the body ground. There is a wire mesh strap from the
rear of the engine head up to the firewall. When it goes ratty the
vehicle steals grounds and will do very strange things like not wanting
to start. The ignition module needs a ground to run.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

bobvonbob wrote:
>
> well after a brief moment of triumph it appears that my joy was
> premature... i removed the venturi cluster and cleaned out the idle
> tubes, they were in fact dripping at idle and there was quite alot of
> crud in them and in the 2 screws. i also cleaned out the gas feed line
> from the fuel filter to the carb just for good measure. since it was
> nightime by then and i didnt have my jumper cables handy i let it sit
> till the next day, when happily, it started up - not such a surprise as
> it reliably starts when cold - but then continued to start up all day
> long - the idle was high (about 1000rpm sometimes sticking up at around
> 1500 and blipping the throttle only worked to bring it down about 1/2
> the time) and when starting it seemed a bit reluctant for about 1/2 a
> second but then it would fire right up and run great. no stalls no
> rough running no hiccups etc.
> then last night i had a date (uhhh oh...) and of course - no start. she
> (the jeep that is) had sat for about 3-4 hours at this point so i was
> surprised (she's supposed to start up and THEN leave me stranded with
> my date looking on - jealousy is so ugly) anyway i cranked it
> periodically until the batt ran down then hooked up jumper cables but
> all to no avail... it didnt even sound like there was any spark at
> all... i dont think the motor ever even fired once, although it seemed
> to diesel for about 1/4 second once or twice after about 20 seconds of
> continuous cranking (didnt want to kill the starter motor).
> i had a couple of tablespoons of gas left in a gas can, so i tried
> pouring that into the barrel of the carb - no difference. tried
> cracking the gas cap and pulling the vent line to the carb float bowl -
> nope. since it was nightime and i was in clean clothes and had even
> scraped all the oil out from under my fingernails in anticipation of
> some serious making out and since - oddly enough - i didnt have a spare
> spark plug in my pocket, i wasnt able to see if there was in fact any
> spark at all. today i'm gonna have to wait until i can get someone over
> to jump me to find out...
> in the meantime, anyone have any bright ideas about this? i'm beginning
> to lean toward a problem on the ignition side of things but honestly i
> have no idea. today i plan to test the coil, and pull the Ignition
> Control Module and bring it in to NAPA - they say they can test it...
> i've been trolling some previous posts and there was a very similiar
> case to mine (averyislandboy, Bob V, from back in Oct 2003 - sorry i
> dont know how to hotlink here) - his symptoms were similiar if not
> identical and he apparently resolved them by purchasing a new - what he
> calls - ECM, by which i take to mean ICM - Ignition Control Module;
> that is opposed to the ECU - the Electronic Control Unit. i assume he's
> referring to the ICM based on the implied location of said module, in
> the engine compartment... (vs ECU in the passenger compartment) and
> from the details of his post. can anyone clarify this? Bob, you out
> there?
> seems to me that if the master brain box - the ECU - was bad the Jeep
> wouldnt run at all as opposed to intermittently...
> well i suppose i can take the ICM out and have it tested anyway... i
> will let all of you know what happens.
> i am interested to know, Bob if you're still out there - did the
> problem ever reappear or did the new ICM (ECU?) fix it completely?
>
> thanks for all the help,
> bennett
>
> PS i am seriously considering pulling the choke circuit as well and
> replacing it with a manual choke... and when i have the money trashing
> the Carter and going to a Weber set up. how bout a replacement for the
> ignition circuit? what's the inside scoop with that?
>
> PPS does the 87 YJ 4.2L have a Crank Position Sensor?
>
> sorry for the barrage of questions... thanks for all your patience.
> b

 

Ouch.

Ok, you seem to have more than one thing going on. First off only
kicking the idle down about half the time is a linkage thing. Likely
the choke linkage pieces and the fast idle cam need some oil. I
actually use WD40 on them because it cleans the crud out without leaving
too much behind. If I have, I will use carb cleaner on those parts
too. That also might indicate a dirty connection on the electric choke
not allowing it to open fully.

They even get dirty enough that the choke seizes up. When you checked
it to pour in the gas, was the choke closed? It should have been. If
not, the linkage needs serious cleaning. They like to seize up right
where the choke electric module's shaft comes out.

A bad ignition module can be some of your trouble for sure. When
getting one stay far far away from the Wells unit. They come dead in
the box more often than they come good. Seriously, they have screwed up
something serious in them. If you can find a motorcraft one it would be
the best.

At least you have no CPS to worry about...

The coil pickup in the distributor also can go bad. You can check it
with a multimeter. It should read between 400 to 800 ohms. Mine was a
failed unit at about 415 ohms...

I would be checking the inside of the distributor cap also for crud or
carbon tracks. That can affect starting. There also is a bad batch of
them on the market. The rotors are too short so they arc out all over
the place.

Did you get the carb screws back the same as they were?

One last gotcha is the body ground. There is a wire mesh strap from the
rear of the engine head up to the firewall. When it goes ratty the
vehicle steals grounds and will do very strange things like not wanting
to start. The ignition module needs a ground to run.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

bobvonbob wrote:
>
> well after a brief moment of triumph it appears that my joy was
> premature... i removed the venturi cluster and cleaned out the idle
> tubes, they were in fact dripping at idle and there was quite alot of
> crud in them and in the 2 screws. i also cleaned out the gas feed line
> from the fuel filter to the carb just for good measure. since it was
> nightime by then and i didnt have my jumper cables handy i let it sit
> till the next day, when happily, it started up - not such a surprise as
> it reliably starts when cold - but then continued to start up all day
> long - the idle was high (about 1000rpm sometimes sticking up at around
> 1500 and blipping the throttle only worked to bring it down about 1/2
> the time) and when starting it seemed a bit reluctant for about 1/2 a
> second but then it would fire right up and run great. no stalls no
> rough running no hiccups etc.
> then last night i had a date (uhhh oh...) and of course - no start. she
> (the jeep that is) had sat for about 3-4 hours at this point so i was
> surprised (she's supposed to start up and THEN leave me stranded with
> my date looking on - jealousy is so ugly) anyway i cranked it
> periodically until the batt ran down then hooked up jumper cables but
> all to no avail... it didnt even sound like there was any spark at
> all... i dont think the motor ever even fired once, although it seemed
> to diesel for about 1/4 second once or twice after about 20 seconds of
> continuous cranking (didnt want to kill the starter motor).
> i had a couple of tablespoons of gas left in a gas can, so i tried
> pouring that into the barrel of the carb - no difference. tried
> cracking the gas cap and pulling the vent line to the carb float bowl -
> nope. since it was nightime and i was in clean clothes and had even
> scraped all the oil out from under my fingernails in anticipation of
> some serious making out and since - oddly enough - i didnt have a spare
> spark plug in my pocket, i wasnt able to see if there was in fact any
> spark at all. today i'm gonna have to wait until i can get someone over
> to jump me to find out...
> in the meantime, anyone have any bright ideas about this? i'm beginning
> to lean toward a problem on the ignition side of things but honestly i
> have no idea. today i plan to test the coil, and pull the Ignition
> Control Module and bring it in to NAPA - they say they can test it...
> i've been trolling some previous posts and there was a very similiar
> case to mine (averyislandboy, Bob V, from back in Oct 2003 - sorry i
> dont know how to hotlink here) - his symptoms were similiar if not
> identical and he apparently resolved them by purchasing a new - what he
> calls - ECM, by which i take to mean ICM - Ignition Control Module;
> that is opposed to the ECU - the Electronic Control Unit. i assume he's
> referring to the ICM based on the implied location of said module, in
> the engine compartment... (vs ECU in the passenger compartment) and
> from the details of his post. can anyone clarify this? Bob, you out
> there?
> seems to me that if the master brain box - the ECU - was bad the Jeep
> wouldnt run at all as opposed to intermittently...
> well i suppose i can take the ICM out and have it tested anyway... i
> will let all of you know what happens.
> i am interested to know, Bob if you're still out there - did the
> problem ever reappear or did the new ICM (ECU?) fix it completely?
>
> thanks for all the help,
> bennett
>
> PS i am seriously considering pulling the choke circuit as well and
> replacing it with a manual choke... and when i have the money trashing
> the Carter and going to a Weber set up. how bout a replacement for the
> ignition circuit? what's the inside scoop with that?
>
> PPS does the 87 YJ 4.2L have a Crank Position Sensor?
>
> sorry for the barrage of questions... thanks for all your patience.
> b

 

Ouch.

Ok, you seem to have more than one thing going on. First off only
kicking the idle down about half the time is a linkage thing. Likely
the choke linkage pieces and the fast idle cam need some oil. I
actually use WD40 on them because it cleans the crud out without leaving
too much behind. If I have, I will use carb cleaner on those parts
too. That also might indicate a dirty connection on the electric choke
not allowing it to open fully.

They even get dirty enough that the choke seizes up. When you checked
it to pour in the gas, was the choke closed? It should have been. If
not, the linkage needs serious cleaning. They like to seize up right
where the choke electric module's shaft comes out.

A bad ignition module can be some of your trouble for sure. When
getting one stay far far away from the Wells unit. They come dead in
the box more often than they come good. Seriously, they have screwed up
something serious in them. If you can find a motorcraft one it would be
the best.

At least you have no CPS to worry about...

The coil pickup in the distributor also can go bad. You can check it
with a multimeter. It should read between 400 to 800 ohms. Mine was a
failed unit at about 415 ohms...

I would be checking the inside of the distributor cap also for crud or
carbon tracks. That can affect starting. There also is a bad batch of
them on the market. The rotors are too short so they arc out all over
the place.

Did you get the carb screws back the same as they were?

One last gotcha is the body ground. There is a wire mesh strap from the
rear of the engine head up to the firewall. When it goes ratty the
vehicle steals grounds and will do very strange things like not wanting
to start. The ignition module needs a ground to run.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

bobvonbob wrote:
>
> well after a brief moment of triumph it appears that my joy was
> premature... i removed the venturi cluster and cleaned out the idle
> tubes, they were in fact dripping at idle and there was quite alot of
> crud in them and in the 2 screws. i also cleaned out the gas feed line
> from the fuel filter to the carb just for good measure. since it was
> nightime by then and i didnt have my jumper cables handy i let it sit
> till the next day, when happily, it started up - not such a surprise as
> it reliably starts when cold - but then continued to start up all day
> long - the idle was high (about 1000rpm sometimes sticking up at around
> 1500 and blipping the throttle only worked to bring it down about 1/2
> the time) and when starting it seemed a bit reluctant for about 1/2 a
> second but then it would fire right up and run great. no stalls no
> rough running no hiccups etc.
> then last night i had a date (uhhh oh...) and of course - no start. she
> (the jeep that is) had sat for about 3-4 hours at this point so i was
> surprised (she's supposed to start up and THEN leave me stranded with
> my date looking on - jealousy is so ugly) anyway i cranked it
> periodically until the batt ran down then hooked up jumper cables but
> all to no avail... it didnt even sound like there was any spark at
> all... i dont think the motor ever even fired once, although it seemed
> to diesel for about 1/4 second once or twice after about 20 seconds of
> continuous cranking (didnt want to kill the starter motor).
> i had a couple of tablespoons of gas left in a gas can, so i tried
> pouring that into the barrel of the carb - no difference. tried
> cracking the gas cap and pulling the vent line to the carb float bowl -
> nope. since it was nightime and i was in clean clothes and had even
> scraped all the oil out from under my fingernails in anticipation of
> some serious making out and since - oddly enough - i didnt have a spare
> spark plug in my pocket, i wasnt able to see if there was in fact any
> spark at all. today i'm gonna have to wait until i can get someone over
> to jump me to find out...
> in the meantime, anyone have any bright ideas about this? i'm beginning
> to lean toward a problem on the ignition side of things but honestly i
> have no idea. today i plan to test the coil, and pull the Ignition
> Control Module and bring it in to NAPA - they say they can test it...
> i've been trolling some previous posts and there was a very similiar
> case to mine (averyislandboy, Bob V, from back in Oct 2003 - sorry i
> dont know how to hotlink here) - his symptoms were similiar if not
> identical and he apparently resolved them by purchasing a new - what he
> calls - ECM, by which i take to mean ICM - Ignition Control Module;
> that is opposed to the ECU - the Electronic Control Unit. i assume he's
> referring to the ICM based on the implied location of said module, in
> the engine compartment... (vs ECU in the passenger compartment) and
> from the details of his post. can anyone clarify this? Bob, you out
> there?
> seems to me that if the master brain box - the ECU - was bad the Jeep
> wouldnt run at all as opposed to intermittently...
> well i suppose i can take the ICM out and have it tested anyway... i
> will let all of you know what happens.
> i am interested to know, Bob if you're still out there - did the
> problem ever reappear or did the new ICM (ECU?) fix it completely?
>
> thanks for all the help,
> bennett
>
> PS i am seriously considering pulling the choke circuit as well and
> replacing it with a manual choke... and when i have the money trashing
> the Carter and going to a Weber set up. how bout a replacement for the
> ignition circuit? what's the inside scoop with that?
>
> PPS does the 87 YJ 4.2L have a Crank Position Sensor?
>
> sorry for the barrage of questions... thanks for all your patience.
> b

 

thanks mike - here's an update, first things first: i checked for spark
and sure enough, spark is present. cant speak for the strength but she
has fire.
so next i went and got a new choke pull off and ICM - not too
expensive, about $40 from NAPA - when i went to replace the pull off i
noticed that the vacuum hose to the pull off from the carb was
seriously cracked - i dont mean heat cracks - i mean two big splits,
one on either end of the hose where LOTS of air would have been coming
thru... AAHA! i thought! the culprit!
but no - no start. replaced the ICM - still no start.
then i double checked the part # for the pull off with the part # of
the carb and lo and behold - it is the incorrect pull off! my Carter
BBD is apparently a model 8383 and this pull off is only for models
8338 and 8339... i have since found the correct pull off and will be
replacing it tonight or tomorrow so we'll see...
an interesting note - when my friend and i were trying to get it to
start after replacing both parts, the motor was turning over but still
not catching - just like before. on a whim i reached over and manually
opened the choke plate - and vroom! she started! she ran great, idled
happily at about 700rpm and revved with a healthy roar. i noticed that
while she was running, the choke plate stayed at least partially open -
held open by the (apparently incorrect) choke pull off which appeared
to have vacuum since it was engaged. we turned it off and she restarted
again no problem. now after an hour or so - no start, choke plate
completely closed - my friend split so i have no one to crank it while
i hold the plate open (and no remote starter) so i dont know if i can
successfully reproduce the starting procedure...
i suppose this is a VERY long way of asking how exactly the choke pull
off is supposed to work and whether this could be the ultimate source
of the problem (the linkage WAS a bit sticky, cleaned and lubed it up -
thanks). sorry this comes out rather stream-of-consciousness, i think
better while talking or typing - thinking out loud so to speak... if i
had a slightly better idea of how the choke circuit is supposed to work
this might be clearer to me...

thanks for all your help,
bennett

 

thanks mike - here's an update, first things first: i checked for spark
and sure enough, spark is present. cant speak for the strength but she
has fire.
so next i went and got a new choke pull off and ICM - not too
expensive, about $40 from NAPA - when i went to replace the pull off i
noticed that the vacuum hose to the pull off from the carb was
seriously cracked - i dont mean heat cracks - i mean two big splits,
one on either end of the hose where LOTS of air would have been coming
thru... AAHA! i thought! the culprit!
but no - no start. replaced the ICM - still no start.
then i double checked the part # for the pull off with the part # of
the carb and lo and behold - it is the incorrect pull off! my Carter
BBD is apparently a model 8383 and this pull off is only for models
8338 and 8339... i have since found the correct pull off and will be
replacing it tonight or tomorrow so we'll see...
an interesting note - when my friend and i were trying to get it to
start after replacing both parts, the motor was turning over but still
not catching - just like before. on a whim i reached over and manually
opened the choke plate - and vroom! she started! she ran great, idled
happily at about 700rpm and revved with a healthy roar. i noticed that
while she was running, the choke plate stayed at least partially open -
held open by the (apparently incorrect) choke pull off which appeared
to have vacuum since it was engaged. we turned it off and she restarted
again no problem. now after an hour or so - no start, choke plate
completely closed - my friend split so i have no one to crank it while
i hold the plate open (and no remote starter) so i dont know if i can
successfully reproduce the starting procedure...
i suppose this is a VERY long way of asking how exactly the choke pull
off is supposed to work and whether this could be the ultimate source
of the problem (the linkage WAS a bit sticky, cleaned and lubed it up -
thanks). sorry this comes out rather stream-of-consciousness, i think
better while talking or typing - thinking out loud so to speak... if i
had a slightly better idea of how the choke circuit is supposed to work
this might be clearer to me...

thanks for all your help,
bennett