86 Cherokee overheating problem
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee overheating problem
You're giving a pretty fair description of a plugged radiator or a
collapsed lower hose - can't pull water out as fast as it goes in. I
looked at the Commanche manual for the 86 and can't tell - did the
4-banger have that wonderful closed system they stuck on the 4.0 L 6
in 87? If so, then there are a few other 'simple' things to look at,
but from what you describe it doesn't sound like the closed system.
On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 22:01:23 UTC "Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com>
wrote:
> Thank you JoBo and Mike for your input. Still working on the problem of
> overheating. Also seems to not getting full power under load. It Bogs down
> going up a hill and seems to have problems during the lower range of the
> Rpms. The Fan clutch seems to be fine. Has the same stiffness in it when
> hot as when cold. I did notice that the water seemed to flow into the
> radiator faster than out when revving up the engine a bit. It came up thru
> the cap every time I increased the engine's Rpms It is a one row radiator
> but looks real clean inside and a small wire easily passes thru the tubes I
> can get to under the cap area. Tried to ask the Jeep Creep for help but so
> far he has not responded. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Don
> "Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
> news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> > Good evening,
> > I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> > overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
> to
> > get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> > the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> > grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> > Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> > valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
> was
> > installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> > Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> > and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> > couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
> radiator
> > between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> > sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
> to
> > get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
> than
> > 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
> find
> > any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> > when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
> sure.
> > Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
> where
> > the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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> >
> >
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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>
>
--
Will Honea
collapsed lower hose - can't pull water out as fast as it goes in. I
looked at the Commanche manual for the 86 and can't tell - did the
4-banger have that wonderful closed system they stuck on the 4.0 L 6
in 87? If so, then there are a few other 'simple' things to look at,
but from what you describe it doesn't sound like the closed system.
On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 22:01:23 UTC "Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com>
wrote:
> Thank you JoBo and Mike for your input. Still working on the problem of
> overheating. Also seems to not getting full power under load. It Bogs down
> going up a hill and seems to have problems during the lower range of the
> Rpms. The Fan clutch seems to be fine. Has the same stiffness in it when
> hot as when cold. I did notice that the water seemed to flow into the
> radiator faster than out when revving up the engine a bit. It came up thru
> the cap every time I increased the engine's Rpms It is a one row radiator
> but looks real clean inside and a small wire easily passes thru the tubes I
> can get to under the cap area. Tried to ask the Jeep Creep for help but so
> far he has not responded. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Don
> "Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
> news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> > Good evening,
> > I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> > overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
> to
> > get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> > the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> > grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> > Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> > valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
> was
> > installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> > Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> > and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> > couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
> radiator
> > between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> > sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
> to
> > get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
> than
> > 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
> find
> > any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> > when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
> sure.
> > Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
> where
> > the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/11/04
> >
> >
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/12/04
>
>
--
Will Honea
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee overheating problem
All seem to be correct but cannot tell for sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
If you've been working on the cooling system, did you put everything
back the way it was? If you get the two bypass hoses switched, you'll
get boiling, no heat in cab etc.
Check that the smaller ('out') hose from the thermo housing goes
direct to the heater core with a T to the TOP of the expansion tank.
Check that the bypass hose ('return') from the block (the one
attatched to the long metal tube to the left of the thermo housing)
goes to the heater core with a T from the BOTTOM of the expansion
tank.
I got the mixed on my '87 and caused all sorts of grief, mischief ,
expense and puzzlement. If backwards, the system will draw in air from
the top of the tank,
and that will give you the symptoms of a BHG, clogged rad, bad pump ,
you name it. I wish I didn't have to have learned this the hard way.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
If you've been working on the cooling system, did you put everything
back the way it was? If you get the two bypass hoses switched, you'll
get boiling, no heat in cab etc.
Check that the smaller ('out') hose from the thermo housing goes
direct to the heater core with a T to the TOP of the expansion tank.
Check that the bypass hose ('return') from the block (the one
attatched to the long metal tube to the left of the thermo housing)
goes to the heater core with a T from the BOTTOM of the expansion
tank.
I got the mixed on my '87 and caused all sorts of grief, mischief ,
expense and puzzlement. If backwards, the system will draw in air from
the top of the tank,
and that will give you the symptoms of a BHG, clogged rad, bad pump ,
you name it. I wish I didn't have to have learned this the hard way.
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee overheating problem
All seem to be correct but cannot tell for sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
If you've been working on the cooling system, did you put everything
back the way it was? If you get the two bypass hoses switched, you'll
get boiling, no heat in cab etc.
Check that the smaller ('out') hose from the thermo housing goes
direct to the heater core with a T to the TOP of the expansion tank.
Check that the bypass hose ('return') from the block (the one
attatched to the long metal tube to the left of the thermo housing)
goes to the heater core with a T from the BOTTOM of the expansion
tank.
I got the mixed on my '87 and caused all sorts of grief, mischief ,
expense and puzzlement. If backwards, the system will draw in air from
the top of the tank,
and that will give you the symptoms of a BHG, clogged rad, bad pump ,
you name it. I wish I didn't have to have learned this the hard way.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
If you've been working on the cooling system, did you put everything
back the way it was? If you get the two bypass hoses switched, you'll
get boiling, no heat in cab etc.
Check that the smaller ('out') hose from the thermo housing goes
direct to the heater core with a T to the TOP of the expansion tank.
Check that the bypass hose ('return') from the block (the one
attatched to the long metal tube to the left of the thermo housing)
goes to the heater core with a T from the BOTTOM of the expansion
tank.
I got the mixed on my '87 and caused all sorts of grief, mischief ,
expense and puzzlement. If backwards, the system will draw in air from
the top of the tank,
and that will give you the symptoms of a BHG, clogged rad, bad pump ,
you name it. I wish I didn't have to have learned this the hard way.
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee overheating problem
All seem to be correct but cannot tell for sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
If you've been working on the cooling system, did you put everything
back the way it was? If you get the two bypass hoses switched, you'll
get boiling, no heat in cab etc.
Check that the smaller ('out') hose from the thermo housing goes
direct to the heater core with a T to the TOP of the expansion tank.
Check that the bypass hose ('return') from the block (the one
attatched to the long metal tube to the left of the thermo housing)
goes to the heater core with a T from the BOTTOM of the expansion
tank.
I got the mixed on my '87 and caused all sorts of grief, mischief ,
expense and puzzlement. If backwards, the system will draw in air from
the top of the tank,
and that will give you the symptoms of a BHG, clogged rad, bad pump ,
you name it. I wish I didn't have to have learned this the hard way.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
If you've been working on the cooling system, did you put everything
back the way it was? If you get the two bypass hoses switched, you'll
get boiling, no heat in cab etc.
Check that the smaller ('out') hose from the thermo housing goes
direct to the heater core with a T to the TOP of the expansion tank.
Check that the bypass hose ('return') from the block (the one
attatched to the long metal tube to the left of the thermo housing)
goes to the heater core with a T from the BOTTOM of the expansion
tank.
I got the mixed on my '87 and caused all sorts of grief, mischief ,
expense and puzzlement. If backwards, the system will draw in air from
the top of the tank,
and that will give you the symptoms of a BHG, clogged rad, bad pump ,
you name it. I wish I didn't have to have learned this the hard way.
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee overheating problem
All seem to be correct but cannot tell for sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
If you've been working on the cooling system, did you put everything
back the way it was? If you get the two bypass hoses switched, you'll
get boiling, no heat in cab etc.
Check that the smaller ('out') hose from the thermo housing goes
direct to the heater core with a T to the TOP of the expansion tank.
Check that the bypass hose ('return') from the block (the one
attatched to the long metal tube to the left of the thermo housing)
goes to the heater core with a T from the BOTTOM of the expansion
tank.
I got the mixed on my '87 and caused all sorts of grief, mischief ,
expense and puzzlement. If backwards, the system will draw in air from
the top of the tank,
and that will give you the symptoms of a BHG, clogged rad, bad pump ,
you name it. I wish I didn't have to have learned this the hard way.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
If you've been working on the cooling system, did you put everything
back the way it was? If you get the two bypass hoses switched, you'll
get boiling, no heat in cab etc.
Check that the smaller ('out') hose from the thermo housing goes
direct to the heater core with a T to the TOP of the expansion tank.
Check that the bypass hose ('return') from the block (the one
attatched to the long metal tube to the left of the thermo housing)
goes to the heater core with a T from the BOTTOM of the expansion
tank.
I got the mixed on my '87 and caused all sorts of grief, mischief ,
expense and puzzlement. If backwards, the system will draw in air from
the top of the tank,
and that will give you the symptoms of a BHG, clogged rad, bad pump ,
you name it. I wish I didn't have to have learned this the hard way.
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee overheating problem
Thanks all for your inputs. Mike the fan clutch does not become real stiff
after the engine has been run for awhile. It does seem to have some
resistance in its action both cold and while somewhat warm. Will try to get
it hot and recheck. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Will. I think I agree with the diagnosis of a plugged radiator. While it
looks clean without any rust I think I will remove it and check it out. The
hose at the bottom is new. The volume of water at the top of the radiator
seems to show that the pump is working fine. Might be some crap that has
lodged in the bottom tank of the radiator. It is a single row radiator.
Does the radiator out of a 84 V-6 fit? If so I might be able to try a two
row radiator. Thanks to you also, for your suggestions.
Hi Master of None. What I had done was a head removal and valve job. Two
Valves were bad from overheating and there was a bit of head warpage. All
of that is fine now but I could tell that there was a problem before that
caused the overheating. The vave job and repair did not correct it. None
of the other hoses were removed that were not required to get the head off.
Most of the water hoses were easy to locate their proper connections. The
vacuum lines and vapor recovery (Fuel Injection) small hoses might not be
connected correctly. Cannot find the diagram for the system to verify.
None of my water hoses seem to have a "T" connection. The smaller of the
hoses that connect to the thermostat housing loops over to the intake
manifold. There is a heater hose connected to the top area of the water pump
that goes to the heater core area of the firewall. It is about the same
diameter as the one that comes off the thermostat housing. However they are
not long enough to be switched. Thanks for all of your help also.
Also I was not sure about the engine might be running real lean or with
advanced timing. Since I am also experiencing sluggish pickup during the
low end of the Rpm's as well as a bogging down during the higher end of a
Rpm windup, I was also wondering about bad sensors or even a partly clogged
fuel filter. Don
"Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> Good evening,
> I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
to
> get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
was
> installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
radiator
> between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
to
> get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
than
> 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
find
> any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
>
> \
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/13/04
after the engine has been run for awhile. It does seem to have some
resistance in its action both cold and while somewhat warm. Will try to get
it hot and recheck. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Will. I think I agree with the diagnosis of a plugged radiator. While it
looks clean without any rust I think I will remove it and check it out. The
hose at the bottom is new. The volume of water at the top of the radiator
seems to show that the pump is working fine. Might be some crap that has
lodged in the bottom tank of the radiator. It is a single row radiator.
Does the radiator out of a 84 V-6 fit? If so I might be able to try a two
row radiator. Thanks to you also, for your suggestions.
Hi Master of None. What I had done was a head removal and valve job. Two
Valves were bad from overheating and there was a bit of head warpage. All
of that is fine now but I could tell that there was a problem before that
caused the overheating. The vave job and repair did not correct it. None
of the other hoses were removed that were not required to get the head off.
Most of the water hoses were easy to locate their proper connections. The
vacuum lines and vapor recovery (Fuel Injection) small hoses might not be
connected correctly. Cannot find the diagram for the system to verify.
None of my water hoses seem to have a "T" connection. The smaller of the
hoses that connect to the thermostat housing loops over to the intake
manifold. There is a heater hose connected to the top area of the water pump
that goes to the heater core area of the firewall. It is about the same
diameter as the one that comes off the thermostat housing. However they are
not long enough to be switched. Thanks for all of your help also.
Also I was not sure about the engine might be running real lean or with
advanced timing. Since I am also experiencing sluggish pickup during the
low end of the Rpm's as well as a bogging down during the higher end of a
Rpm windup, I was also wondering about bad sensors or even a partly clogged
fuel filter. Don
"Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> Good evening,
> I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
to
> get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
was
> installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
radiator
> between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
to
> get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
than
> 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
find
> any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
>
> \
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/13/04
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee overheating problem
Thanks all for your inputs. Mike the fan clutch does not become real stiff
after the engine has been run for awhile. It does seem to have some
resistance in its action both cold and while somewhat warm. Will try to get
it hot and recheck. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Will. I think I agree with the diagnosis of a plugged radiator. While it
looks clean without any rust I think I will remove it and check it out. The
hose at the bottom is new. The volume of water at the top of the radiator
seems to show that the pump is working fine. Might be some crap that has
lodged in the bottom tank of the radiator. It is a single row radiator.
Does the radiator out of a 84 V-6 fit? If so I might be able to try a two
row radiator. Thanks to you also, for your suggestions.
Hi Master of None. What I had done was a head removal and valve job. Two
Valves were bad from overheating and there was a bit of head warpage. All
of that is fine now but I could tell that there was a problem before that
caused the overheating. The vave job and repair did not correct it. None
of the other hoses were removed that were not required to get the head off.
Most of the water hoses were easy to locate their proper connections. The
vacuum lines and vapor recovery (Fuel Injection) small hoses might not be
connected correctly. Cannot find the diagram for the system to verify.
None of my water hoses seem to have a "T" connection. The smaller of the
hoses that connect to the thermostat housing loops over to the intake
manifold. There is a heater hose connected to the top area of the water pump
that goes to the heater core area of the firewall. It is about the same
diameter as the one that comes off the thermostat housing. However they are
not long enough to be switched. Thanks for all of your help also.
Also I was not sure about the engine might be running real lean or with
advanced timing. Since I am also experiencing sluggish pickup during the
low end of the Rpm's as well as a bogging down during the higher end of a
Rpm windup, I was also wondering about bad sensors or even a partly clogged
fuel filter. Don
"Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> Good evening,
> I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
to
> get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
was
> installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
radiator
> between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
to
> get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
than
> 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
find
> any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
>
> \
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/13/04
after the engine has been run for awhile. It does seem to have some
resistance in its action both cold and while somewhat warm. Will try to get
it hot and recheck. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Will. I think I agree with the diagnosis of a plugged radiator. While it
looks clean without any rust I think I will remove it and check it out. The
hose at the bottom is new. The volume of water at the top of the radiator
seems to show that the pump is working fine. Might be some crap that has
lodged in the bottom tank of the radiator. It is a single row radiator.
Does the radiator out of a 84 V-6 fit? If so I might be able to try a two
row radiator. Thanks to you also, for your suggestions.
Hi Master of None. What I had done was a head removal and valve job. Two
Valves were bad from overheating and there was a bit of head warpage. All
of that is fine now but I could tell that there was a problem before that
caused the overheating. The vave job and repair did not correct it. None
of the other hoses were removed that were not required to get the head off.
Most of the water hoses were easy to locate their proper connections. The
vacuum lines and vapor recovery (Fuel Injection) small hoses might not be
connected correctly. Cannot find the diagram for the system to verify.
None of my water hoses seem to have a "T" connection. The smaller of the
hoses that connect to the thermostat housing loops over to the intake
manifold. There is a heater hose connected to the top area of the water pump
that goes to the heater core area of the firewall. It is about the same
diameter as the one that comes off the thermostat housing. However they are
not long enough to be switched. Thanks for all of your help also.
Also I was not sure about the engine might be running real lean or with
advanced timing. Since I am also experiencing sluggish pickup during the
low end of the Rpm's as well as a bogging down during the higher end of a
Rpm windup, I was also wondering about bad sensors or even a partly clogged
fuel filter. Don
"Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> Good evening,
> I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
to
> get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
was
> installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
radiator
> between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
to
> get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
than
> 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
find
> any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
>
> \
---
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#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee overheating problem
Thanks all for your inputs. Mike the fan clutch does not become real stiff
after the engine has been run for awhile. It does seem to have some
resistance in its action both cold and while somewhat warm. Will try to get
it hot and recheck. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Will. I think I agree with the diagnosis of a plugged radiator. While it
looks clean without any rust I think I will remove it and check it out. The
hose at the bottom is new. The volume of water at the top of the radiator
seems to show that the pump is working fine. Might be some crap that has
lodged in the bottom tank of the radiator. It is a single row radiator.
Does the radiator out of a 84 V-6 fit? If so I might be able to try a two
row radiator. Thanks to you also, for your suggestions.
Hi Master of None. What I had done was a head removal and valve job. Two
Valves were bad from overheating and there was a bit of head warpage. All
of that is fine now but I could tell that there was a problem before that
caused the overheating. The vave job and repair did not correct it. None
of the other hoses were removed that were not required to get the head off.
Most of the water hoses were easy to locate their proper connections. The
vacuum lines and vapor recovery (Fuel Injection) small hoses might not be
connected correctly. Cannot find the diagram for the system to verify.
None of my water hoses seem to have a "T" connection. The smaller of the
hoses that connect to the thermostat housing loops over to the intake
manifold. There is a heater hose connected to the top area of the water pump
that goes to the heater core area of the firewall. It is about the same
diameter as the one that comes off the thermostat housing. However they are
not long enough to be switched. Thanks for all of your help also.
Also I was not sure about the engine might be running real lean or with
advanced timing. Since I am also experiencing sluggish pickup during the
low end of the Rpm's as well as a bogging down during the higher end of a
Rpm windup, I was also wondering about bad sensors or even a partly clogged
fuel filter. Don
"Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> Good evening,
> I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
to
> get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
was
> installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
radiator
> between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
to
> get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
than
> 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
find
> any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
>
> \
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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after the engine has been run for awhile. It does seem to have some
resistance in its action both cold and while somewhat warm. Will try to get
it hot and recheck. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Will. I think I agree with the diagnosis of a plugged radiator. While it
looks clean without any rust I think I will remove it and check it out. The
hose at the bottom is new. The volume of water at the top of the radiator
seems to show that the pump is working fine. Might be some crap that has
lodged in the bottom tank of the radiator. It is a single row radiator.
Does the radiator out of a 84 V-6 fit? If so I might be able to try a two
row radiator. Thanks to you also, for your suggestions.
Hi Master of None. What I had done was a head removal and valve job. Two
Valves were bad from overheating and there was a bit of head warpage. All
of that is fine now but I could tell that there was a problem before that
caused the overheating. The vave job and repair did not correct it. None
of the other hoses were removed that were not required to get the head off.
Most of the water hoses were easy to locate their proper connections. The
vacuum lines and vapor recovery (Fuel Injection) small hoses might not be
connected correctly. Cannot find the diagram for the system to verify.
None of my water hoses seem to have a "T" connection. The smaller of the
hoses that connect to the thermostat housing loops over to the intake
manifold. There is a heater hose connected to the top area of the water pump
that goes to the heater core area of the firewall. It is about the same
diameter as the one that comes off the thermostat housing. However they are
not long enough to be switched. Thanks for all of your help also.
Also I was not sure about the engine might be running real lean or with
advanced timing. Since I am also experiencing sluggish pickup during the
low end of the Rpm's as well as a bogging down during the higher end of a
Rpm windup, I was also wondering about bad sensors or even a partly clogged
fuel filter. Don
"Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> Good evening,
> I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
to
> get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
was
> installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
radiator
> between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
to
> get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
than
> 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
find
> any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
>
> \
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/13/04
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee overheating problem
Thanks all for your inputs. Mike the fan clutch does not become real stiff
after the engine has been run for awhile. It does seem to have some
resistance in its action both cold and while somewhat warm. Will try to get
it hot and recheck. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Will. I think I agree with the diagnosis of a plugged radiator. While it
looks clean without any rust I think I will remove it and check it out. The
hose at the bottom is new. The volume of water at the top of the radiator
seems to show that the pump is working fine. Might be some crap that has
lodged in the bottom tank of the radiator. It is a single row radiator.
Does the radiator out of a 84 V-6 fit? If so I might be able to try a two
row radiator. Thanks to you also, for your suggestions.
Hi Master of None. What I had done was a head removal and valve job. Two
Valves were bad from overheating and there was a bit of head warpage. All
of that is fine now but I could tell that there was a problem before that
caused the overheating. The vave job and repair did not correct it. None
of the other hoses were removed that were not required to get the head off.
Most of the water hoses were easy to locate their proper connections. The
vacuum lines and vapor recovery (Fuel Injection) small hoses might not be
connected correctly. Cannot find the diagram for the system to verify.
None of my water hoses seem to have a "T" connection. The smaller of the
hoses that connect to the thermostat housing loops over to the intake
manifold. There is a heater hose connected to the top area of the water pump
that goes to the heater core area of the firewall. It is about the same
diameter as the one that comes off the thermostat housing. However they are
not long enough to be switched. Thanks for all of your help also.
Also I was not sure about the engine might be running real lean or with
advanced timing. Since I am also experiencing sluggish pickup during the
low end of the Rpm's as well as a bogging down during the higher end of a
Rpm windup, I was also wondering about bad sensors or even a partly clogged
fuel filter. Don
"Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> Good evening,
> I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
to
> get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
was
> installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
radiator
> between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
to
> get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
than
> 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
find
> any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
>
> \
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/13/04
after the engine has been run for awhile. It does seem to have some
resistance in its action both cold and while somewhat warm. Will try to get
it hot and recheck. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Will. I think I agree with the diagnosis of a plugged radiator. While it
looks clean without any rust I think I will remove it and check it out. The
hose at the bottom is new. The volume of water at the top of the radiator
seems to show that the pump is working fine. Might be some crap that has
lodged in the bottom tank of the radiator. It is a single row radiator.
Does the radiator out of a 84 V-6 fit? If so I might be able to try a two
row radiator. Thanks to you also, for your suggestions.
Hi Master of None. What I had done was a head removal and valve job. Two
Valves were bad from overheating and there was a bit of head warpage. All
of that is fine now but I could tell that there was a problem before that
caused the overheating. The vave job and repair did not correct it. None
of the other hoses were removed that were not required to get the head off.
Most of the water hoses were easy to locate their proper connections. The
vacuum lines and vapor recovery (Fuel Injection) small hoses might not be
connected correctly. Cannot find the diagram for the system to verify.
None of my water hoses seem to have a "T" connection. The smaller of the
hoses that connect to the thermostat housing loops over to the intake
manifold. There is a heater hose connected to the top area of the water pump
that goes to the heater core area of the firewall. It is about the same
diameter as the one that comes off the thermostat housing. However they are
not long enough to be switched. Thanks for all of your help also.
Also I was not sure about the engine might be running real lean or with
advanced timing. Since I am also experiencing sluggish pickup during the
low end of the Rpm's as well as a bogging down during the higher end of a
Rpm windup, I was also wondering about bad sensors or even a partly clogged
fuel filter. Don
"Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> Good evening,
> I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
to
> get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
was
> installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
radiator
> between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
to
> get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
than
> 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
find
> any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
>
> \
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/13/04
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee overheating problem
I think I have repaired the overheating problem at last. I removed the
radiator to change it over to a two row unit and found that the area between
the A/C radiator and engine radiator was almost completely clogged up with
dirt and leaves. I went ahead and changed the radiator but the old one
looks good now that it can breathe. Ran the vehicle up a couple of hills
and the temperature stayed down where it should. Thank you everybody for
your help. Don Smith
"Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> Good evening,
> I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
to
> get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
was
> installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
radiator
> between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
to
> get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
than
> 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
find
> any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/11/04
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.737 / Virus Database: 491 - Release Date: 8/11/04
radiator to change it over to a two row unit and found that the area between
the A/C radiator and engine radiator was almost completely clogged up with
dirt and leaves. I went ahead and changed the radiator but the old one
looks good now that it can breathe. Ran the vehicle up a couple of hills
and the temperature stayed down where it should. Thank you everybody for
your help. Don Smith
"Don Smith" <desmith@innercite.com> wrote in message
news:10hs8sgt6ct7s01@corp.supernews.com...
> Good evening,
> I have a 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer with a 2.46L 4-150 engine with an
> overheating problem. I just purchased it as a basket case and am trying
to
> get it back on the road again. I found that there were two bad valves in
> the number two cylinder. The intake valve was burned through with a large
> grove across the face. The exhaust valve had gotten so hot that it had
> Cupped and sat too low in the seat. The head had a complete professional
> valve job and was shaved slightly to ensure it was not warped. After it
was
> installed the engine ran rich and I found a hose was disconnected from the
> Mapp sensor. I also found that someone had installed the wrong O2 sensor
> and it was replaced with the correct one. The radiator has been flushed a
> couple of times and now seems clean. There is a slight leak in the
radiator
> between the converter and muffler. It seems to idle fine but has a
> sluggish pickup in engine RPM. Also backfires once in a while and wants
to
> get hot climbing even a small hill. Timing seems to be slightly higher
than
> 12 BTDC. Have not checked the fuel filter as of yet. I cannot seem to
find
> any information as to the correct hose connections that had to be removed
> when doing the valve job. All seem to be correct but cannot tell for
sure.
> Can you advise any other areas to check and perhaps point me to a site
where
> the hose diagram might be found? Thanks Don Smith
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/11/04
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.737 / Virus Database: 491 - Release Date: 8/11/04