86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
04-01-2006, 04:56 PM
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
The next few minutes were very exciting.
Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
don't play nice together.
Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
Jeff DeWitt
Earle Horton wrote:
> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four years in
> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the lights
> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> would have been worse, had it been night time!
>
> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of the park
> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the back of
> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb socket for
> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same circuit, it
> may also be the problem.
>
> Earle
>
> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>
>>Hi all
>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
>>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
>>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
>>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
>>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
>>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
>>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
>>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
>>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
>>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
>>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
>>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>
>>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
>>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>
>>Sincerely
>>
>>Dave
>>
>
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
The next few minutes were very exciting.
Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
don't play nice together.
Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
Jeff DeWitt
Earle Horton wrote:
> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four years in
> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the lights
> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> would have been worse, had it been night time!
>
> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of the park
> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the back of
> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb socket for
> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same circuit, it
> may also be the problem.
>
> Earle
>
> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>
>>Hi all
>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
>>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
>>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
>>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
>>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
>>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
>>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
>>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
>>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
>>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
>>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
>>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>
>>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
>>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>
>>Sincerely
>>
>>Dave
>>
>
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-01-2006, 05:40 PM
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
That could be the reason for the melted wire at the light switch on his,
but not the blowing fuse...
Mike
Jeff DeWitt wrote:
>
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four years in
> > graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> > horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> > driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the lights
> > go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> > would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >
> > You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of the park
> > or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the back of
> > the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> > which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> > Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> > insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> > help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb socket for
> > evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same circuit, it
> > may also be the problem.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >
> >>Hi all
> >> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>
> >>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>
> >>Sincerely
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
but not the blowing fuse...
Mike
Jeff DeWitt wrote:
>
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four years in
> > graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> > horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> > driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the lights
> > go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> > would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >
> > You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of the park
> > or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the back of
> > the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> > which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> > Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> > insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> > help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb socket for
> > evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same circuit, it
> > may also be the problem.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >
> >>Hi all
> >> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>
> >>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>
> >>Sincerely
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-01-2006, 05:40 PM
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
That could be the reason for the melted wire at the light switch on his,
but not the blowing fuse...
Mike
Jeff DeWitt wrote:
>
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four years in
> > graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> > horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> > driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the lights
> > go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> > would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >
> > You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of the park
> > or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the back of
> > the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> > which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> > Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> > insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> > help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb socket for
> > evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same circuit, it
> > may also be the problem.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >
> >>Hi all
> >> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>
> >>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>
> >>Sincerely
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
but not the blowing fuse...
Mike
Jeff DeWitt wrote:
>
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four years in
> > graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> > horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> > driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the lights
> > go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> > would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >
> > You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of the park
> > or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the back of
> > the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> > which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> > Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> > insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> > help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb socket for
> > evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same circuit, it
> > may also be the problem.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >
> >>Hi all
> >> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>
> >>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>
> >>Sincerely
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-01-2006, 05:40 PM
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
That could be the reason for the melted wire at the light switch on his,
but not the blowing fuse...
Mike
Jeff DeWitt wrote:
>
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four years in
> > graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> > horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> > driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the lights
> > go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> > would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >
> > You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of the park
> > or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the back of
> > the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> > which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> > Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> > insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> > help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb socket for
> > evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same circuit, it
> > may also be the problem.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >
> >>Hi all
> >> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>
> >>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>
> >>Sincerely
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
but not the blowing fuse...
Mike
Jeff DeWitt wrote:
>
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four years in
> > graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> > horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> > driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the lights
> > go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> > would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >
> > You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of the park
> > or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the back of
> > the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> > which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> > Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> > insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> > help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb socket for
> > evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same circuit, it
> > may also be the problem.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >
> >>Hi all
> >> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>
> >>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>
> >>Sincerely
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-01-2006, 11:28 PM
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
Even with the Radio Harness off and the wires taped up. It still pops a
fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
checked and repacked with grease.
I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
Dave
fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
checked and repacked with grease.
I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
Dave
04-01-2006, 11:28 PM
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
Even with the Radio Harness off and the wires taped up. It still pops a
fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
checked and repacked with grease.
I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
Dave
fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
checked and repacked with grease.
I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
Dave
04-01-2006, 11:28 PM
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
Even with the Radio Harness off and the wires taped up. It still pops a
fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
checked and repacked with grease.
I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
Dave
fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
checked and repacked with grease.
I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
Dave
04-02-2006, 11:28 AM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
You need to go back to stage 1.....
It worked when you got it......
Something you 'fixed' wasn't broken. It didn't just up and short out.
'You' might know how to wire a stereo, but the last person or several
people ago maybe didn't know how. Hence the cut wires.
Having the radio sitting on the seat running means ----. It is getting
power. PUTTING IT IN THE DASH ADDED ANOTHER GROUND PATH FOR A SHORT!
Also a place to pinch a wire when they slide into the dash.
YOU NEED TO REMOVE IT AND REMOVE 'ALL' THE WIRES GOING TO IT AND THE CUT
WIRES YOU 'FIXED!
(sorry for shouting, but you don't seem to get it. It worked on the
seat is all you keep saying, so you therefore think it must work in the
dash. Wrong.)
Is it now impossible to go back to stage 1 because you have forgotten
what you fixed or taped up?
You messed with wires on the headlight switch too right?
I mean come on, it is one circuit. It blows fuses. Over fusing
something 'shouldn't' have caused a short.
Adding a bad radio is a common short path. The radio can act as a major
body ground which blows fuses if you are lucky and/or cooks the radio.
This is called ground theft and happens because the wire mesh strap from
the firewall to the engine or the cable from the battery to the fender
is rotted or dirty. By putting the radio in, you make a new ground
circuit so it doesn't have to steal it through the gas or brake pedal
any more.
Please answer the questions posed instead of ranting on. I know you are
pissed, but some of us here have actually rewired Jeeps.
Did you remove 'all' the light bulbs from the park light circuit? You
can remove the 5A dash lights fuse as well to cut that out of the
circuit.
The bulbs are known to short out for the signals and running lights
sometimes. The glass falls out of it's base and the wires short.
The 10 amp fuse that blows should have the parking lights, the tail
lamps, the headlight warning chime/buzzer and the instrument panel
dimmer switch on it.
The chime/buzzer module is a rectangle box plugged into the top center
of the fuse panel above the flasher. You could pull that out.
You can remove the fuse that blows and put the multimeter set on 20
volts across the fuse socket or you could put a test light there. With
a short, you will read 12.2 volts or so and/or the light will light up.
Wiggle harnesses and remove light bulbs until it reads 0 volts.
You can also do this with the meter set on continuity or ohms. You hook
it to the side of the fuse that leads to the lights, not the power side
(find out which with the meter set on 20 volts) and pull bulbs until it
stops beeping or take the fuse out and put the meter back on that blue
wire that beeped before and then pull bulbs until it stops beeping.
When it stops, you have found the location of the shorted bulb or wire
section.
Also just to note. Because the radio was killing the battery and you
'wired it correctly' the short happening for 25 minutes might have
overloaded the headlight switch's parking circuit. You might need to
remove the switch and see if it looks melted down.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Dave G wrote:
>
> Even with the Radio Harness off and the wires taped up. It still pops a
> fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
> over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
> to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
> ---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
> thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
> rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
> accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
> wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
> drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
> PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
> not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
> and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
> when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
> and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
> Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
> Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
> busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
> rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
> has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
> the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
> checked and repacked with grease.
>
> I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
> suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
>
> I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
>
> Dave
It worked when you got it......
Something you 'fixed' wasn't broken. It didn't just up and short out.
'You' might know how to wire a stereo, but the last person or several
people ago maybe didn't know how. Hence the cut wires.
Having the radio sitting on the seat running means ----. It is getting
power. PUTTING IT IN THE DASH ADDED ANOTHER GROUND PATH FOR A SHORT!
Also a place to pinch a wire when they slide into the dash.
YOU NEED TO REMOVE IT AND REMOVE 'ALL' THE WIRES GOING TO IT AND THE CUT
WIRES YOU 'FIXED!
(sorry for shouting, but you don't seem to get it. It worked on the
seat is all you keep saying, so you therefore think it must work in the
dash. Wrong.)
Is it now impossible to go back to stage 1 because you have forgotten
what you fixed or taped up?
You messed with wires on the headlight switch too right?
I mean come on, it is one circuit. It blows fuses. Over fusing
something 'shouldn't' have caused a short.
Adding a bad radio is a common short path. The radio can act as a major
body ground which blows fuses if you are lucky and/or cooks the radio.
This is called ground theft and happens because the wire mesh strap from
the firewall to the engine or the cable from the battery to the fender
is rotted or dirty. By putting the radio in, you make a new ground
circuit so it doesn't have to steal it through the gas or brake pedal
any more.
Please answer the questions posed instead of ranting on. I know you are
pissed, but some of us here have actually rewired Jeeps.
Did you remove 'all' the light bulbs from the park light circuit? You
can remove the 5A dash lights fuse as well to cut that out of the
circuit.
The bulbs are known to short out for the signals and running lights
sometimes. The glass falls out of it's base and the wires short.
The 10 amp fuse that blows should have the parking lights, the tail
lamps, the headlight warning chime/buzzer and the instrument panel
dimmer switch on it.
The chime/buzzer module is a rectangle box plugged into the top center
of the fuse panel above the flasher. You could pull that out.
You can remove the fuse that blows and put the multimeter set on 20
volts across the fuse socket or you could put a test light there. With
a short, you will read 12.2 volts or so and/or the light will light up.
Wiggle harnesses and remove light bulbs until it reads 0 volts.
You can also do this with the meter set on continuity or ohms. You hook
it to the side of the fuse that leads to the lights, not the power side
(find out which with the meter set on 20 volts) and pull bulbs until it
stops beeping or take the fuse out and put the meter back on that blue
wire that beeped before and then pull bulbs until it stops beeping.
When it stops, you have found the location of the shorted bulb or wire
section.
Also just to note. Because the radio was killing the battery and you
'wired it correctly' the short happening for 25 minutes might have
overloaded the headlight switch's parking circuit. You might need to
remove the switch and see if it looks melted down.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Dave G wrote:
>
> Even with the Radio Harness off and the wires taped up. It still pops a
> fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
> over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
> to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
> ---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
> thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
> rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
> accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
> wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
> drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
> PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
> not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
> and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
> when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
> and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
> Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
> Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
> busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
> rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
> has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
> the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
> checked and repacked with grease.
>
> I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
> suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
>
> I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
>
> Dave
04-02-2006, 11:28 AM
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
You need to go back to stage 1.....
It worked when you got it......
Something you 'fixed' wasn't broken. It didn't just up and short out.
'You' might know how to wire a stereo, but the last person or several
people ago maybe didn't know how. Hence the cut wires.
Having the radio sitting on the seat running means ----. It is getting
power. PUTTING IT IN THE DASH ADDED ANOTHER GROUND PATH FOR A SHORT!
Also a place to pinch a wire when they slide into the dash.
YOU NEED TO REMOVE IT AND REMOVE 'ALL' THE WIRES GOING TO IT AND THE CUT
WIRES YOU 'FIXED!
(sorry for shouting, but you don't seem to get it. It worked on the
seat is all you keep saying, so you therefore think it must work in the
dash. Wrong.)
Is it now impossible to go back to stage 1 because you have forgotten
what you fixed or taped up?
You messed with wires on the headlight switch too right?
I mean come on, it is one circuit. It blows fuses. Over fusing
something 'shouldn't' have caused a short.
Adding a bad radio is a common short path. The radio can act as a major
body ground which blows fuses if you are lucky and/or cooks the radio.
This is called ground theft and happens because the wire mesh strap from
the firewall to the engine or the cable from the battery to the fender
is rotted or dirty. By putting the radio in, you make a new ground
circuit so it doesn't have to steal it through the gas or brake pedal
any more.
Please answer the questions posed instead of ranting on. I know you are
pissed, but some of us here have actually rewired Jeeps.
Did you remove 'all' the light bulbs from the park light circuit? You
can remove the 5A dash lights fuse as well to cut that out of the
circuit.
The bulbs are known to short out for the signals and running lights
sometimes. The glass falls out of it's base and the wires short.
The 10 amp fuse that blows should have the parking lights, the tail
lamps, the headlight warning chime/buzzer and the instrument panel
dimmer switch on it.
The chime/buzzer module is a rectangle box plugged into the top center
of the fuse panel above the flasher. You could pull that out.
You can remove the fuse that blows and put the multimeter set on 20
volts across the fuse socket or you could put a test light there. With
a short, you will read 12.2 volts or so and/or the light will light up.
Wiggle harnesses and remove light bulbs until it reads 0 volts.
You can also do this with the meter set on continuity or ohms. You hook
it to the side of the fuse that leads to the lights, not the power side
(find out which with the meter set on 20 volts) and pull bulbs until it
stops beeping or take the fuse out and put the meter back on that blue
wire that beeped before and then pull bulbs until it stops beeping.
When it stops, you have found the location of the shorted bulb or wire
section.
Also just to note. Because the radio was killing the battery and you
'wired it correctly' the short happening for 25 minutes might have
overloaded the headlight switch's parking circuit. You might need to
remove the switch and see if it looks melted down.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Dave G wrote:
>
> Even with the Radio Harness off and the wires taped up. It still pops a
> fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
> over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
> to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
> ---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
> thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
> rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
> accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
> wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
> drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
> PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
> not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
> and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
> when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
> and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
> Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
> Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
> busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
> rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
> has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
> the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
> checked and repacked with grease.
>
> I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
> suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
>
> I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
>
> Dave
It worked when you got it......
Something you 'fixed' wasn't broken. It didn't just up and short out.
'You' might know how to wire a stereo, but the last person or several
people ago maybe didn't know how. Hence the cut wires.
Having the radio sitting on the seat running means ----. It is getting
power. PUTTING IT IN THE DASH ADDED ANOTHER GROUND PATH FOR A SHORT!
Also a place to pinch a wire when they slide into the dash.
YOU NEED TO REMOVE IT AND REMOVE 'ALL' THE WIRES GOING TO IT AND THE CUT
WIRES YOU 'FIXED!
(sorry for shouting, but you don't seem to get it. It worked on the
seat is all you keep saying, so you therefore think it must work in the
dash. Wrong.)
Is it now impossible to go back to stage 1 because you have forgotten
what you fixed or taped up?
You messed with wires on the headlight switch too right?
I mean come on, it is one circuit. It blows fuses. Over fusing
something 'shouldn't' have caused a short.
Adding a bad radio is a common short path. The radio can act as a major
body ground which blows fuses if you are lucky and/or cooks the radio.
This is called ground theft and happens because the wire mesh strap from
the firewall to the engine or the cable from the battery to the fender
is rotted or dirty. By putting the radio in, you make a new ground
circuit so it doesn't have to steal it through the gas or brake pedal
any more.
Please answer the questions posed instead of ranting on. I know you are
pissed, but some of us here have actually rewired Jeeps.
Did you remove 'all' the light bulbs from the park light circuit? You
can remove the 5A dash lights fuse as well to cut that out of the
circuit.
The bulbs are known to short out for the signals and running lights
sometimes. The glass falls out of it's base and the wires short.
The 10 amp fuse that blows should have the parking lights, the tail
lamps, the headlight warning chime/buzzer and the instrument panel
dimmer switch on it.
The chime/buzzer module is a rectangle box plugged into the top center
of the fuse panel above the flasher. You could pull that out.
You can remove the fuse that blows and put the multimeter set on 20
volts across the fuse socket or you could put a test light there. With
a short, you will read 12.2 volts or so and/or the light will light up.
Wiggle harnesses and remove light bulbs until it reads 0 volts.
You can also do this with the meter set on continuity or ohms. You hook
it to the side of the fuse that leads to the lights, not the power side
(find out which with the meter set on 20 volts) and pull bulbs until it
stops beeping or take the fuse out and put the meter back on that blue
wire that beeped before and then pull bulbs until it stops beeping.
When it stops, you have found the location of the shorted bulb or wire
section.
Also just to note. Because the radio was killing the battery and you
'wired it correctly' the short happening for 25 minutes might have
overloaded the headlight switch's parking circuit. You might need to
remove the switch and see if it looks melted down.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Dave G wrote:
>
> Even with the Radio Harness off and the wires taped up. It still pops a
> fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
> over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
> to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
> ---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
> thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
> rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
> accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
> wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
> drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
> PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
> not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
> and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
> when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
> and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
> Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
> Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
> busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
> rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
> has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
> the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
> checked and repacked with grease.
>
> I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
> suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
>
> I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
>
> Dave
04-02-2006, 11:28 AM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
You need to go back to stage 1.....
It worked when you got it......
Something you 'fixed' wasn't broken. It didn't just up and short out.
'You' might know how to wire a stereo, but the last person or several
people ago maybe didn't know how. Hence the cut wires.
Having the radio sitting on the seat running means ----. It is getting
power. PUTTING IT IN THE DASH ADDED ANOTHER GROUND PATH FOR A SHORT!
Also a place to pinch a wire when they slide into the dash.
YOU NEED TO REMOVE IT AND REMOVE 'ALL' THE WIRES GOING TO IT AND THE CUT
WIRES YOU 'FIXED!
(sorry for shouting, but you don't seem to get it. It worked on the
seat is all you keep saying, so you therefore think it must work in the
dash. Wrong.)
Is it now impossible to go back to stage 1 because you have forgotten
what you fixed or taped up?
You messed with wires on the headlight switch too right?
I mean come on, it is one circuit. It blows fuses. Over fusing
something 'shouldn't' have caused a short.
Adding a bad radio is a common short path. The radio can act as a major
body ground which blows fuses if you are lucky and/or cooks the radio.
This is called ground theft and happens because the wire mesh strap from
the firewall to the engine or the cable from the battery to the fender
is rotted or dirty. By putting the radio in, you make a new ground
circuit so it doesn't have to steal it through the gas or brake pedal
any more.
Please answer the questions posed instead of ranting on. I know you are
pissed, but some of us here have actually rewired Jeeps.
Did you remove 'all' the light bulbs from the park light circuit? You
can remove the 5A dash lights fuse as well to cut that out of the
circuit.
The bulbs are known to short out for the signals and running lights
sometimes. The glass falls out of it's base and the wires short.
The 10 amp fuse that blows should have the parking lights, the tail
lamps, the headlight warning chime/buzzer and the instrument panel
dimmer switch on it.
The chime/buzzer module is a rectangle box plugged into the top center
of the fuse panel above the flasher. You could pull that out.
You can remove the fuse that blows and put the multimeter set on 20
volts across the fuse socket or you could put a test light there. With
a short, you will read 12.2 volts or so and/or the light will light up.
Wiggle harnesses and remove light bulbs until it reads 0 volts.
You can also do this with the meter set on continuity or ohms. You hook
it to the side of the fuse that leads to the lights, not the power side
(find out which with the meter set on 20 volts) and pull bulbs until it
stops beeping or take the fuse out and put the meter back on that blue
wire that beeped before and then pull bulbs until it stops beeping.
When it stops, you have found the location of the shorted bulb or wire
section.
Also just to note. Because the radio was killing the battery and you
'wired it correctly' the short happening for 25 minutes might have
overloaded the headlight switch's parking circuit. You might need to
remove the switch and see if it looks melted down.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Dave G wrote:
>
> Even with the Radio Harness off and the wires taped up. It still pops a
> fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
> over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
> to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
> ---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
> thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
> rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
> accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
> wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
> drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
> PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
> not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
> and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
> when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
> and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
> Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
> Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
> busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
> rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
> has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
> the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
> checked and repacked with grease.
>
> I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
> suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
>
> I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
>
> Dave
It worked when you got it......
Something you 'fixed' wasn't broken. It didn't just up and short out.
'You' might know how to wire a stereo, but the last person or several
people ago maybe didn't know how. Hence the cut wires.
Having the radio sitting on the seat running means ----. It is getting
power. PUTTING IT IN THE DASH ADDED ANOTHER GROUND PATH FOR A SHORT!
Also a place to pinch a wire when they slide into the dash.
YOU NEED TO REMOVE IT AND REMOVE 'ALL' THE WIRES GOING TO IT AND THE CUT
WIRES YOU 'FIXED!
(sorry for shouting, but you don't seem to get it. It worked on the
seat is all you keep saying, so you therefore think it must work in the
dash. Wrong.)
Is it now impossible to go back to stage 1 because you have forgotten
what you fixed or taped up?
You messed with wires on the headlight switch too right?
I mean come on, it is one circuit. It blows fuses. Over fusing
something 'shouldn't' have caused a short.
Adding a bad radio is a common short path. The radio can act as a major
body ground which blows fuses if you are lucky and/or cooks the radio.
This is called ground theft and happens because the wire mesh strap from
the firewall to the engine or the cable from the battery to the fender
is rotted or dirty. By putting the radio in, you make a new ground
circuit so it doesn't have to steal it through the gas or brake pedal
any more.
Please answer the questions posed instead of ranting on. I know you are
pissed, but some of us here have actually rewired Jeeps.
Did you remove 'all' the light bulbs from the park light circuit? You
can remove the 5A dash lights fuse as well to cut that out of the
circuit.
The bulbs are known to short out for the signals and running lights
sometimes. The glass falls out of it's base and the wires short.
The 10 amp fuse that blows should have the parking lights, the tail
lamps, the headlight warning chime/buzzer and the instrument panel
dimmer switch on it.
The chime/buzzer module is a rectangle box plugged into the top center
of the fuse panel above the flasher. You could pull that out.
You can remove the fuse that blows and put the multimeter set on 20
volts across the fuse socket or you could put a test light there. With
a short, you will read 12.2 volts or so and/or the light will light up.
Wiggle harnesses and remove light bulbs until it reads 0 volts.
You can also do this with the meter set on continuity or ohms. You hook
it to the side of the fuse that leads to the lights, not the power side
(find out which with the meter set on 20 volts) and pull bulbs until it
stops beeping or take the fuse out and put the meter back on that blue
wire that beeped before and then pull bulbs until it stops beeping.
When it stops, you have found the location of the shorted bulb or wire
section.
Also just to note. Because the radio was killing the battery and you
'wired it correctly' the short happening for 25 minutes might have
overloaded the headlight switch's parking circuit. You might need to
remove the switch and see if it looks melted down.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Dave G wrote:
>
> Even with the Radio Harness off and the wires taped up. It still pops a
> fuse!!!!!!!!!!!! So does anyone have any other suggestions??? Could
> over amping the circuit like this ------- did by 5 amps, have anything
> to do with it? I've come to the conculsion that the wiring is toast,
> ---- the whole piece of crap jeep is toast, but sadly its the only
> thing I have to work with. I mean lets face wiring in a radio isn't
> rocket science. I know what the constent 12v is I know what the
> accesory 12v switch is, I know what wires go where. I didn't just stick
> wires together. As I stated previous the radio was wired and when I
> drove the vehicle from College about 30-35 minutes away the radio was
> PLUGGED in and sitting on the passenger seat playing cd's, it was just
> not mounted into the dash. I know most of you guys are trying to help
> and I really really appreciate it, I'm just losing it I'm pissed off
> when I wake up and I'm pissed off when I go to bed. Not to mention if
> and when I ever sort out this problem I still have to contend with a
> Ripped air intake, from the box to the throttle body, A leaking Auto
> Transmission that could either be the pan gasket or what looked like a
> busted up Trans-cool line that some ------- fixed with a piece of
> rubber hose and radiator clamps, a new raditator, the front driveshaft
> has a CV style joint that the boots been pushed in and more then likely
> the guts have been containmented so that has to be pulled apart and
> checked and repacked with grease.
>
> I'm sorry all if I come across as an -------, but all this from what is
> suppose to be a daily driver vehicle.
>
> I think I've lost it plain old and simple.
>
> Dave
