86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
04-02-2006, 01:11 PM
#71
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
and short non-relayed high current to ground.
Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
>> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
>> years in
>> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
>> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
>> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
>> lights
>> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
>> would have been worse, had it been night time!
>>
>> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
>> the park
>> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
>> back of
>> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
>> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
>> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
>> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
>> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
>> socket for
>> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
>> circuit, it
>> may also be the problem.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>>
>>> Hi all
>>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
>>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
>>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
>>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
>>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
>>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
>>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
>>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
>>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
>>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
>>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
>>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>>
>>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
>>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>>
>>> Sincerely
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
and short non-relayed high current to ground.
Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
>> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
>> years in
>> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
>> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
>> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
>> lights
>> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
>> would have been worse, had it been night time!
>>
>> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
>> the park
>> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
>> back of
>> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
>> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
>> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
>> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
>> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
>> socket for
>> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
>> circuit, it
>> may also be the problem.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>>
>>> Hi all
>>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
>>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
>>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
>>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
>>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
>>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
>>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
>>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
>>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
>>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
>>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
>>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>>
>>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
>>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>>
>>> Sincerely
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-02-2006, 01:11 PM
#72
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
and short non-relayed high current to ground.
Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
>> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
>> years in
>> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
>> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
>> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
>> lights
>> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
>> would have been worse, had it been night time!
>>
>> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
>> the park
>> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
>> back of
>> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
>> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
>> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
>> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
>> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
>> socket for
>> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
>> circuit, it
>> may also be the problem.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>>
>>> Hi all
>>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
>>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
>>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
>>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
>>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
>>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
>>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
>>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
>>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
>>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
>>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
>>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>>
>>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
>>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>>
>>> Sincerely
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
and short non-relayed high current to ground.
Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
>> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
>> years in
>> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
>> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
>> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
>> lights
>> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
>> would have been worse, had it been night time!
>>
>> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
>> the park
>> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
>> back of
>> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
>> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
>> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
>> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
>> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
>> socket for
>> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
>> circuit, it
>> may also be the problem.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>>
>>> Hi all
>>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
>>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
>>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
>>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
>>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
>>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
>>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
>>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
>>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
>>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
>>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
>>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>>
>>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
>>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>>
>>> Sincerely
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-02-2006, 01:11 PM
#73
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
and short non-relayed high current to ground.
Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
>> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
>> years in
>> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
>> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
>> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
>> lights
>> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
>> would have been worse, had it been night time!
>>
>> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
>> the park
>> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
>> back of
>> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
>> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
>> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
>> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
>> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
>> socket for
>> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
>> circuit, it
>> may also be the problem.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>>
>>> Hi all
>>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
>>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
>>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
>>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
>>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
>>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
>>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
>>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
>>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
>>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
>>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
>>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>>
>>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
>>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>>
>>> Sincerely
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
and short non-relayed high current to ground.
Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
> I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>
> The next few minutes were very exciting.
>
> Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> don't play nice together.
>
> Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>
> Jeff DeWitt
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
>> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
>> years in
>> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
>> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
>> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
>> lights
>> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
>> would have been worse, had it been night time!
>>
>> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
>> the park
>> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
>> back of
>> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
>> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
>> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
>> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
>> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
>> socket for
>> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
>> circuit, it
>> may also be the problem.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>>
>>> Hi all
>>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
>>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
>>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
>>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
>>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
>>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
>>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
>>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
>>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
>>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
>>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
>>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>>
>>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
>>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>>
>>> Sincerely
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-02-2006, 01:31 PM
#74
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
Damn man, I have rewired more than on MGB and a couple Austin Mini's,
plus an old 66 Rover 2000TC. Had the damn battery blow up in my face
because of that regulator on the Rover. It had boiled the battery hard
on a highway run and I needed to disconnect the battery at night due to
some short drawing it down. Likely the regulator thinking back on
it... LOL! (sold the car before I ever did find that short) Pulled
the battery cable and Bam off comes the top of the battery. Pieces
sliced up my eyebrow and cheek and punched right through the hood. Good
thing I was real close to water....
Jeeps aren't 'supposed' to act like those nightmares.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Lon wrote:
>
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
plus an old 66 Rover 2000TC. Had the damn battery blow up in my face
because of that regulator on the Rover. It had boiled the battery hard
on a highway run and I needed to disconnect the battery at night due to
some short drawing it down. Likely the regulator thinking back on
it... LOL! (sold the car before I ever did find that short) Pulled
the battery cable and Bam off comes the top of the battery. Pieces
sliced up my eyebrow and cheek and punched right through the hood. Good
thing I was real close to water....
Jeeps aren't 'supposed' to act like those nightmares.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Lon wrote:
>
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-02-2006, 01:31 PM
#75
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
Damn man, I have rewired more than on MGB and a couple Austin Mini's,
plus an old 66 Rover 2000TC. Had the damn battery blow up in my face
because of that regulator on the Rover. It had boiled the battery hard
on a highway run and I needed to disconnect the battery at night due to
some short drawing it down. Likely the regulator thinking back on
it... LOL! (sold the car before I ever did find that short) Pulled
the battery cable and Bam off comes the top of the battery. Pieces
sliced up my eyebrow and cheek and punched right through the hood. Good
thing I was real close to water....
Jeeps aren't 'supposed' to act like those nightmares.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Lon wrote:
>
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
plus an old 66 Rover 2000TC. Had the damn battery blow up in my face
because of that regulator on the Rover. It had boiled the battery hard
on a highway run and I needed to disconnect the battery at night due to
some short drawing it down. Likely the regulator thinking back on
it... LOL! (sold the car before I ever did find that short) Pulled
the battery cable and Bam off comes the top of the battery. Pieces
sliced up my eyebrow and cheek and punched right through the hood. Good
thing I was real close to water....
Jeeps aren't 'supposed' to act like those nightmares.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Lon wrote:
>
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-02-2006, 01:31 PM
#76
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
Damn man, I have rewired more than on MGB and a couple Austin Mini's,
plus an old 66 Rover 2000TC. Had the damn battery blow up in my face
because of that regulator on the Rover. It had boiled the battery hard
on a highway run and I needed to disconnect the battery at night due to
some short drawing it down. Likely the regulator thinking back on
it... LOL! (sold the car before I ever did find that short) Pulled
the battery cable and Bam off comes the top of the battery. Pieces
sliced up my eyebrow and cheek and punched right through the hood. Good
thing I was real close to water....
Jeeps aren't 'supposed' to act like those nightmares.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Lon wrote:
>
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
plus an old 66 Rover 2000TC. Had the damn battery blow up in my face
because of that regulator on the Rover. It had boiled the battery hard
on a highway run and I needed to disconnect the battery at night due to
some short drawing it down. Likely the regulator thinking back on
it... LOL! (sold the car before I ever did find that short) Pulled
the battery cable and Bam off comes the top of the battery. Pieces
sliced up my eyebrow and cheek and punched right through the hood. Good
thing I was real close to water....
Jeeps aren't 'supposed' to act like those nightmares.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Lon wrote:
>
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-02-2006, 01:36 PM
#77
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
Do I take it (since you didn't mention it) that you actually had an MGB that
.... wait for it ... didn't let the rain in ?
[gasp]
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:T_ydnZsr3LFGmK3ZnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
>
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something,
about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later.
It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure
out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small
resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may
also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights
and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no
problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio
always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses
go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in
it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried
out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so
do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do
come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad
ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had
this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main
computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as
possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
.... wait for it ... didn't let the rain in ?
[gasp]
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:T_ydnZsr3LFGmK3ZnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
>
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something,
about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later.
It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure
out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small
resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may
also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights
and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no
problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio
always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses
go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in
it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried
out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so
do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do
come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad
ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had
this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main
computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as
possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-02-2006, 01:36 PM
#78
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
Do I take it (since you didn't mention it) that you actually had an MGB that
.... wait for it ... didn't let the rain in ?
[gasp]
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:T_ydnZsr3LFGmK3ZnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
>
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something,
about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later.
It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure
out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small
resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may
also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights
and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no
problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio
always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses
go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in
it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried
out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so
do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do
come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad
ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had
this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main
computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as
possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
.... wait for it ... didn't let the rain in ?
[gasp]
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:T_ydnZsr3LFGmK3ZnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
>
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something,
about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later.
It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure
out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small
resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may
also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights
and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no
problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio
always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses
go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in
it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried
out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so
do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do
come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad
ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had
this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main
computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as
possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-02-2006, 01:36 PM
#79
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
Do I take it (since you didn't mention it) that you actually had an MGB that
.... wait for it ... didn't let the rain in ?
[gasp]
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:T_ydnZsr3LFGmK3ZnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
>
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something,
about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later.
It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure
out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small
resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may
also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights
and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no
problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio
always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses
go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in
it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried
out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so
do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do
come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad
ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had
this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main
computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as
possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
.... wait for it ... didn't let the rain in ?
[gasp]
Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:T_ydnZsr3LFGmK3ZnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
> used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
> River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
> missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
> route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
> grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
> a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
> that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
> acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
> pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
> that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
> and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>
>
>
> Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>
> > I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
> > dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
> >
> > The next few minutes were very exciting.
> >
> > Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
> > don't play nice together.
> >
> > Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
> > best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
> >
> > Jeff DeWitt
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >
> >> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
> >> years in
> >> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> >> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something,
about
> >> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
> >> lights
> >> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later.
It
> >> would have been worse, had it been night time!
> >>
> >> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
> >> the park
> >> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
> >> back of
> >> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure
out
> >> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small
resistance.
> >> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> >> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may
also
> >> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
> >> socket for
> >> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
> >> circuit, it
> >> may also be the problem.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> >>
> >>> Hi all
> >>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
> >>> pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
> >>> my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
> >>> head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
> >>> the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
> >>> time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights
and
> >>> instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no
problems
> >>> the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
> >>> think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio
always
> >>> thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
> >>> switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
> >>> someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
> >>> the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
> >>> looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses
go
> >>> where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in
it,
> >>> the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried
out
> >>> my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
> >>> a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
> >>> up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
> >>> headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
> >>> it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
> >>> a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
> >>> the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so
do
> >>> my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do
come
> >>> one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
> >>> interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad
ground?
> >>> Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had
this
> >>> problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
> >>> . I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
> >>> stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
> >>> there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main
computer
> >>> harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
> >>> Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
> >>>
> >>> Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as
possiable
> >>> if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
> >>> I'll be watching the forum for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Sincerely
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
> >> http://www.SecureIX.com ***
04-02-2006, 04:26 PM
#80
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 86 Cherokee. Need desperate electrical help!!!! plz
There wasn't all that much rain in the high Utah desert, but oddly
enough I never got that much rain...granted I had an aftermarket top
with the sorta gasket-flange at the windows and a thickened gasket like
area at the button downs.
Dave Milne proclaimed:
> Do I take it (since you didn't mention it) that you actually had an MGB that
> ... wait for it ... didn't let the rain in ?
> [gasp]
>
> Dave Milne, Scotland
> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
>
> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:T_ydnZsr3LFGmK3ZnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>
>>You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
>>used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
>>River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
>>missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
>>route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
>>grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
>>a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
>>that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
>>acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
>>pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
>>that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
>>and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>>
>>
>>
>>Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>>
>>
>>>I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
>>>dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>>>
>>>The next few minutes were very exciting.
>>>
>>>Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
>>>don't play nice together.
>>>
>>>Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
>>>best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>>>
>>>Jeff DeWitt
>>>
>>>Earle Horton wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
>>>>years in
>>>>graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
>>>>horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something,
>
> about
>
>>>>driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
>>>>lights
>>>>go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later.
>
> It
>
>>>>would have been worse, had it been night time!
>>>>
>>>>You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
>>>>the park
>>>>or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
>>>>back of
>>>>the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure
>
> out
>
>>>>which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small
>
> resistance.
>
>>>>Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
>>>>insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may
>
> also
>
>>>>help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
>>>>socket for
>>>>evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
>>>>circuit, it
>>>>may also be the problem.
>>>>
>>>>Earle
>>>>
>>>>"Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googl egroups.com...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Hi all
>>>>>I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>>>>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>>>>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>>>>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>>>>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>>>>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights
>
> and
>
>>>>>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no
>
> problems
>
>>>>>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>>>>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio
>
> always
>
>>>>>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>>>>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>>>>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>>>>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>>>>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses
>
> go
>
>>>>>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in
>
> it,
>
>>>>>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried
>
> out
>
>>>>>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>>>>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>>>>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>>>>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>>>>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>>>>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>>>>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so
>
> do
>
>>>>>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do
>
> come
>
>>>>>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>>>>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad
>
> ground?
>
>>>>>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had
>
> this
>
>>>>>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>>>>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>>>>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>>>>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main
>
> computer
>
>>>>>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>>>>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>>>>
>>>>>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as
>
> possiable
>
>>>>>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>>>>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>>>>
>>>>>Sincerely
>>>>>
>>>>>Dave
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>>>>*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>>>>http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>
>
enough I never got that much rain...granted I had an aftermarket top
with the sorta gasket-flange at the windows and a thickened gasket like
area at the button downs.
Dave Milne proclaimed:
> Do I take it (since you didn't mention it) that you actually had an MGB that
> ... wait for it ... didn't let the rain in ?
> [gasp]
>
> Dave Milne, Scotland
> '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ
>
> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:T_ydnZsr3LFGmK3ZnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>
>>You guys are making me *almost* nostalgic about my old 1966 MGB that
>>used to regularly drop all lights on the commute between Moab to Green
>>River...in the middle of the freakin night after a long delay in a
>>missle launch. Wonder what brit engineer thought it was a good idea to
>>route the high current portions of the wiring right behind the front
>>grille where the tiniest sharp pebble would always get caught and cause
>>a short to the positive ground. Or created those voltage regulators
>>that guaranteed your twin 6 volt batteries behind the seats would boil
>>acid all over the unprotected metal carriers. Or the electrical fuel
>>pump would decide to short internally. Or put wires to driving lights
>>that were never standard equipment where those wires would get pinched
>>and short non-relayed high current to ground.
>>
>>
>>
>>Jeff DeWitt proclaimed:
>>
>>
>>>I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
>>>dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.
>>>
>>>The next few minutes were very exciting.
>>>
>>>Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
>>>don't play nice together.
>>>
>>>Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
>>>best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!
>>>
>>>Jeff DeWitt
>>>
>>>Earle Horton wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four
>>>>years in
>>>>graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
>>>>horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something,
>
> about
>
>>>>driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the
>>>>lights
>>>>go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later.
>
> It
>
>>>>would have been worse, had it been night time!
>>>>
>>>>You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of
>>>>the park
>>>>or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the
>>>>back of
>>>>the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure
>
> out
>
>>>>which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small
>
> resistance.
>
>>>>Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
>>>>insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may
>
> also
>
>>>>help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb
>>>>socket for
>>>>evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same
>>>>circuit, it
>>>>may also be the problem.
>>>>
>>>>Earle
>>>>
>>>>"Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googl egroups.com...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Hi all
>>>>>I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>>>>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>>>>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>>>>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>>>>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>>>>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights
>
> and
>
>>>>>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no
>
> problems
>
>>>>>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>>>>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio
>
> always
>
>>>>>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>>>>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>>>>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>>>>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>>>>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses
>
> go
>
>>>>>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in
>
> it,
>
>>>>>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried
>
> out
>
>>>>>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>>>>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>>>>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>>>>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>>>>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>>>>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>>>>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so
>
> do
>
>>>>>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do
>
> come
>
>>>>>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>>>>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad
>
> ground?
>
>>>>>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had
>
> this
>
>>>>>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>>>>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>>>>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>>>>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main
>
> computer
>
>>>>>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>>>>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>>>>
>>>>>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as
>
> possiable
>
>>>>>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>>>>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>>>>
>>>>>Sincerely
>>>>>
>>>>>Dave
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
>>>>*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from
>>>>http://www.SecureIX.com ***
>
>
>