Dale Beckett wrote:
>
> Mike Romain says...
> > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > >
> > > L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) ------ III says...
> [snip]
> >
> > Either that or I am a ---- load stronger than I think I am... I could
> > easily pick up my 'glass tub and put it on or off the frame when it was
> > empty. Even after I placed the seats and roll bar inside, 2 of us could
> > move it. My front clip can't weigh in more than 50 lb also.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
>
> So, with a 'glass front end, you had to run new electrical grounds, and
> remount the radiator, yes?
>
> Any other gotchas?
>
> --
>
> Dale Beckett

I ran a negative battery cable over to the back of the fuse panel and
mounted some electrical clamps there for the ground wires. I ran a
dedicated 10 ga ground for each harness piece and terminated all of them
at the above ground tap.

For the solenoid ground, I mounted that to the side of the engine block
behind the alternator. The dash also got it's own ground.

I soldered the ground tags right onto the outside of the front signal
lens
sockets and soldered it to the plate inside the rear fixtures.

For the rad, I use an old bed frame and just welded up a couple L shapes
and used old rad hose squares as vibration washers. It held for 5 years
of heavy off roading and one roll over. I finally twisted up enough
last fall to snap the metal side strap on the rad, so welded a 1"x1/8"
bar along the outside of the rad like [. That held until last week when
I snapped the other side on an off road trip. I am just welding that
one up today for the next 4 day trip tomorrow. My Rad will now have
heavy brackets on both sides like [=====] . :-)

You have to watch the roll bar height. The floor can be too thick so
the hard top might not fit on. The heater was a bit of a pain to fit
flush so I use spacers and left it pointing a bit to the passenger
side. You cannot see this when looking at it. I think I had to shorten
the steering brace by 1/4" or so, no trouble there.

I managed to put 6"x1/4"x4" plate under the floor under the roll bar so
the frame mount hits the plate and the seat belt is bolted down to it.

All in all I love the 'glass body! It was worth the work and is so
light my CJ7 is downright scary with the acceleration it has. She goes
like a scalded cat thanks to some nice sites like
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Dale Beckett wrote:
>
> Mike Romain says...
> > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > >
> > > L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) ------ III says...
> [snip]
> >
> > Either that or I am a ---- load stronger than I think I am... I could
> > easily pick up my 'glass tub and put it on or off the frame when it was
> > empty. Even after I placed the seats and roll bar inside, 2 of us could
> > move it. My front clip can't weigh in more than 50 lb also.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
>
> So, with a 'glass front end, you had to run new electrical grounds, and
> remount the radiator, yes?
>
> Any other gotchas?
>
> --
>
> Dale Beckett

I ran a negative battery cable over to the back of the fuse panel and
mounted some electrical clamps there for the ground wires. I ran a
dedicated 10 ga ground for each harness piece and terminated all of them
at the above ground tap.

For the solenoid ground, I mounted that to the side of the engine block
behind the alternator. The dash also got it's own ground.

I soldered the ground tags right onto the outside of the front signal
lens
sockets and soldered it to the plate inside the rear fixtures.

For the rad, I use an old bed frame and just welded up a couple L shapes
and used old rad hose squares as vibration washers. It held for 5 years
of heavy off roading and one roll over. I finally twisted up enough
last fall to snap the metal side strap on the rad, so welded a 1"x1/8"
bar along the outside of the rad like [. That held until last week when
I snapped the other side on an off road trip. I am just welding that
one up today for the next 4 day trip tomorrow. My Rad will now have
heavy brackets on both sides like [=====] . :-)

You have to watch the roll bar height. The floor can be too thick so
the hard top might not fit on. The heater was a bit of a pain to fit
flush so I use spacers and left it pointing a bit to the passenger
side. You cannot see this when looking at it. I think I had to shorten
the steering brace by 1/4" or so, no trouble there.

I managed to put 6"x1/4"x4" plate under the floor under the roll bar so
the frame mount hits the plate and the seat belt is bolted down to it.

All in all I love the 'glass body! It was worth the work and is so
light my CJ7 is downright scary with the acceleration it has. She goes
like a scalded cat thanks to some nice sites like
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Dale Beckett wrote:
>
> Mike Romain says...
> > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > >
> > > L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) ------ III says...
> [snip]
> >
> > Either that or I am a ---- load stronger than I think I am... I could
> > easily pick up my 'glass tub and put it on or off the frame when it was
> > empty. Even after I placed the seats and roll bar inside, 2 of us could
> > move it. My front clip can't weigh in more than 50 lb also.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
>
> So, with a 'glass front end, you had to run new electrical grounds, and
> remount the radiator, yes?
>
> Any other gotchas?
>
> --
>
> Dale Beckett

I ran a negative battery cable over to the back of the fuse panel and
mounted some electrical clamps there for the ground wires. I ran a
dedicated 10 ga ground for each harness piece and terminated all of them
at the above ground tap.

For the solenoid ground, I mounted that to the side of the engine block
behind the alternator. The dash also got it's own ground.

I soldered the ground tags right onto the outside of the front signal
lens
sockets and soldered it to the plate inside the rear fixtures.

For the rad, I use an old bed frame and just welded up a couple L shapes
and used old rad hose squares as vibration washers. It held for 5 years
of heavy off roading and one roll over. I finally twisted up enough
last fall to snap the metal side strap on the rad, so welded a 1"x1/8"
bar along the outside of the rad like [. That held until last week when
I snapped the other side on an off road trip. I am just welding that
one up today for the next 4 day trip tomorrow. My Rad will now have
heavy brackets on both sides like [=====] . :-)

You have to watch the roll bar height. The floor can be too thick so
the hard top might not fit on. The heater was a bit of a pain to fit
flush so I use spacers and left it pointing a bit to the passenger
side. You cannot see this when looking at it. I think I had to shorten
the steering brace by 1/4" or so, no trouble there.

I managed to put 6"x1/4"x4" plate under the floor under the roll bar so
the frame mount hits the plate and the seat belt is bolted down to it.

All in all I love the 'glass body! It was worth the work and is so
light my CJ7 is downright scary with the acceleration it has. She goes
like a scalded cat thanks to some nice sites like
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Mike Romain says...
> Dale Beckett wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain says...
> > > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > > >
> > > > L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) ------ III says...
> > [snip]
> > >{SNIP}
>
> I ran a negative battery cable over to the back of the fuse panel and
> mounted some electrical clamps there for the ground wires. I ran a
> dedicated 10 ga ground for each harness piece and terminated all of them
> at the above ground tap.
>
> For the solenoid ground, I mounted that to the side of the engine block
> behind the alternator. The dash also got it's own ground.
>
> I soldered the ground tags right onto the outside of the front signal
> lens
> sockets and soldered it to the plate inside the rear fixtures.
>
> For the rad, I use an old bed frame and just welded up a couple L shapes
> and used old rad hose squares as vibration washers. It held for 5 years
> of heavy off roading and one roll over. I finally twisted up enough
> last fall to snap the metal side strap on the rad, so welded a 1"x1/8"
> bar along the outside of the rad like [. That held until last week when
> I snapped the other side on an off road trip. I am just welding that
> one up today for the next 4 day trip tomorrow. My Rad will now have
> heavy brackets on both sides like [=====] . :-)
>
> You have to watch the roll bar height. The floor can be too thick so
> the hard top might not fit on. The heater was a bit of a pain to fit
> flush so I use spacers and left it pointing a bit to the passenger
> side. You cannot see this when looking at it. I think I had to shorten
> the steering brace by 1/4" or so, no trouble there.
>
> I managed to put 6"x1/4"x4" plate under the floor under the roll bar so
> the frame mount hits the plate and the seat belt is bolted down to it.
>
> All in all I love the 'glass body! It was worth the work and is so
> light my CJ7 is downright scary with the acceleration it has. She goes
> like a scalded cat thanks to some nice sites like
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

Thanks for the clues on some things I wouldn't have thought of.
And you're right, that IS a cool site, isn't it? :)


--

Dale Beckett

 

Mike Romain says...
> Dale Beckett wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain says...
> > > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > > >
> > > > L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) ------ III says...
> > [snip]
> > >{SNIP}
>
> I ran a negative battery cable over to the back of the fuse panel and
> mounted some electrical clamps there for the ground wires. I ran a
> dedicated 10 ga ground for each harness piece and terminated all of them
> at the above ground tap.
>
> For the solenoid ground, I mounted that to the side of the engine block
> behind the alternator. The dash also got it's own ground.
>
> I soldered the ground tags right onto the outside of the front signal
> lens
> sockets and soldered it to the plate inside the rear fixtures.
>
> For the rad, I use an old bed frame and just welded up a couple L shapes
> and used old rad hose squares as vibration washers. It held for 5 years
> of heavy off roading and one roll over. I finally twisted up enough
> last fall to snap the metal side strap on the rad, so welded a 1"x1/8"
> bar along the outside of the rad like [. That held until last week when
> I snapped the other side on an off road trip. I am just welding that
> one up today for the next 4 day trip tomorrow. My Rad will now have
> heavy brackets on both sides like [=====] . :-)
>
> You have to watch the roll bar height. The floor can be too thick so
> the hard top might not fit on. The heater was a bit of a pain to fit
> flush so I use spacers and left it pointing a bit to the passenger
> side. You cannot see this when looking at it. I think I had to shorten
> the steering brace by 1/4" or so, no trouble there.
>
> I managed to put 6"x1/4"x4" plate under the floor under the roll bar so
> the frame mount hits the plate and the seat belt is bolted down to it.
>
> All in all I love the 'glass body! It was worth the work and is so
> light my CJ7 is downright scary with the acceleration it has. She goes
> like a scalded cat thanks to some nice sites like
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

Thanks for the clues on some things I wouldn't have thought of.
And you're right, that IS a cool site, isn't it? :)


--

Dale Beckett

 

Mike Romain says...
> Dale Beckett wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain says...
> > > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > > >
> > > > L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) ------ III says...
> > [snip]
> > >{SNIP}
>
> I ran a negative battery cable over to the back of the fuse panel and
> mounted some electrical clamps there for the ground wires. I ran a
> dedicated 10 ga ground for each harness piece and terminated all of them
> at the above ground tap.
>
> For the solenoid ground, I mounted that to the side of the engine block
> behind the alternator. The dash also got it's own ground.
>
> I soldered the ground tags right onto the outside of the front signal
> lens
> sockets and soldered it to the plate inside the rear fixtures.
>
> For the rad, I use an old bed frame and just welded up a couple L shapes
> and used old rad hose squares as vibration washers. It held for 5 years
> of heavy off roading and one roll over. I finally twisted up enough
> last fall to snap the metal side strap on the rad, so welded a 1"x1/8"
> bar along the outside of the rad like [. That held until last week when
> I snapped the other side on an off road trip. I am just welding that
> one up today for the next 4 day trip tomorrow. My Rad will now have
> heavy brackets on both sides like [=====] . :-)
>
> You have to watch the roll bar height. The floor can be too thick so
> the hard top might not fit on. The heater was a bit of a pain to fit
> flush so I use spacers and left it pointing a bit to the passenger
> side. You cannot see this when looking at it. I think I had to shorten
> the steering brace by 1/4" or so, no trouble there.
>
> I managed to put 6"x1/4"x4" plate under the floor under the roll bar so
> the frame mount hits the plate and the seat belt is bolted down to it.
>
> All in all I love the 'glass body! It was worth the work and is so
> light my CJ7 is downright scary with the acceleration it has. She goes
> like a scalded cat thanks to some nice sites like
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

Thanks for the clues on some things I wouldn't have thought of.
And you're right, that IS a cool site, isn't it? :)


--

Dale Beckett

 

Mike Romain says...
> Dale Beckett wrote:
> >
> > Mike Romain says...
> > > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > > >
> > > > L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) ------ III says...
> > [snip]
> > >{SNIP}
>
> I ran a negative battery cable over to the back of the fuse panel and
> mounted some electrical clamps there for the ground wires. I ran a
> dedicated 10 ga ground for each harness piece and terminated all of them
> at the above ground tap.
>
> For the solenoid ground, I mounted that to the side of the engine block
> behind the alternator. The dash also got it's own ground.
>
> I soldered the ground tags right onto the outside of the front signal
> lens
> sockets and soldered it to the plate inside the rear fixtures.
>
> For the rad, I use an old bed frame and just welded up a couple L shapes
> and used old rad hose squares as vibration washers. It held for 5 years
> of heavy off roading and one roll over. I finally twisted up enough
> last fall to snap the metal side strap on the rad, so welded a 1"x1/8"
> bar along the outside of the rad like [. That held until last week when
> I snapped the other side on an off road trip. I am just welding that
> one up today for the next 4 day trip tomorrow. My Rad will now have
> heavy brackets on both sides like [=====] . :-)
>
> You have to watch the roll bar height. The floor can be too thick so
> the hard top might not fit on. The heater was a bit of a pain to fit
> flush so I use spacers and left it pointing a bit to the passenger
> side. You cannot see this when looking at it. I think I had to shorten
> the steering brace by 1/4" or so, no trouble there.
>
> I managed to put 6"x1/4"x4" plate under the floor under the roll bar so
> the frame mount hits the plate and the seat belt is bolted down to it.
>
> All in all I love the 'glass body! It was worth the work and is so
> light my CJ7 is downright scary with the acceleration it has. She goes
> like a scalded cat thanks to some nice sites like
> http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

Thanks for the clues on some things I wouldn't have thought of.
And you're right, that IS a cool site, isn't it? :)


--

Dale Beckett

 

Dale Beckett wrote:
>
> Mike Romain says...
> > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike Romain says...
> > > > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) ------ III says...
> > > [snip]
> > > >{SNIP}
> >
> > I ran a negative battery cable over to the back of the fuse panel and
> > mounted some electrical clamps there for the ground wires. I ran a
> > dedicated 10 ga ground for each harness piece and terminated all of them
> > at the above ground tap.
> >
> > For the solenoid ground, I mounted that to the side of the engine block
> > behind the alternator. The dash also got it's own ground.
> >
> > I soldered the ground tags right onto the outside of the front signal
> > lens
> > sockets and soldered it to the plate inside the rear fixtures.
> >
> > For the rad, I use an old bed frame and just welded up a couple L shapes
> > and used old rad hose squares as vibration washers. It held for 5 years
> > of heavy off roading and one roll over. I finally twisted up enough
> > last fall to snap the metal side strap on the rad, so welded a 1"x1/8"
> > bar along the outside of the rad like [. That held until last week when
> > I snapped the other side on an off road trip. I am just welding that
> > one up today for the next 4 day trip tomorrow. My Rad will now have
> > heavy brackets on both sides like [=====] . :-)
> >
> > You have to watch the roll bar height. The floor can be too thick so
> > the hard top might not fit on. The heater was a bit of a pain to fit
> > flush so I use spacers and left it pointing a bit to the passenger
> > side. You cannot see this when looking at it. I think I had to shorten
> > the steering brace by 1/4" or so, no trouble there.
> >
> > I managed to put 6"x1/4"x4" plate under the floor under the roll bar so
> > the frame mount hits the plate and the seat belt is bolted down to it.
> >
> > All in all I love the 'glass body! It was worth the work and is so
> > light my CJ7 is downright scary with the acceleration it has. She goes
> > like a scalded cat thanks to some nice sites like
> > http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
>
> Thanks for the clues on some things I wouldn't have thought of.
> And you're right, that IS a cool site, isn't it? :)
>
> --
>
> Dale Beckett

You are more than welcome. Please feel free to ask if you need more
ideas.

Mike

 

Dale Beckett wrote:
>
> Mike Romain says...
> > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike Romain says...
> > > > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) ------ III says...
> > > [snip]
> > > >{SNIP}
> >
> > I ran a negative battery cable over to the back of the fuse panel and
> > mounted some electrical clamps there for the ground wires. I ran a
> > dedicated 10 ga ground for each harness piece and terminated all of them
> > at the above ground tap.
> >
> > For the solenoid ground, I mounted that to the side of the engine block
> > behind the alternator. The dash also got it's own ground.
> >
> > I soldered the ground tags right onto the outside of the front signal
> > lens
> > sockets and soldered it to the plate inside the rear fixtures.
> >
> > For the rad, I use an old bed frame and just welded up a couple L shapes
> > and used old rad hose squares as vibration washers. It held for 5 years
> > of heavy off roading and one roll over. I finally twisted up enough
> > last fall to snap the metal side strap on the rad, so welded a 1"x1/8"
> > bar along the outside of the rad like [. That held until last week when
> > I snapped the other side on an off road trip. I am just welding that
> > one up today for the next 4 day trip tomorrow. My Rad will now have
> > heavy brackets on both sides like [=====] . :-)
> >
> > You have to watch the roll bar height. The floor can be too thick so
> > the hard top might not fit on. The heater was a bit of a pain to fit
> > flush so I use spacers and left it pointing a bit to the passenger
> > side. You cannot see this when looking at it. I think I had to shorten
> > the steering brace by 1/4" or so, no trouble there.
> >
> > I managed to put 6"x1/4"x4" plate under the floor under the roll bar so
> > the frame mount hits the plate and the seat belt is bolted down to it.
> >
> > All in all I love the 'glass body! It was worth the work and is so
> > light my CJ7 is downright scary with the acceleration it has. She goes
> > like a scalded cat thanks to some nice sites like
> > http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
>
> Thanks for the clues on some things I wouldn't have thought of.
> And you're right, that IS a cool site, isn't it? :)
>
> --
>
> Dale Beckett

You are more than welcome. Please feel free to ask if you need more
ideas.

Mike

 

Dale Beckett wrote:
>
> Mike Romain says...
> > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > >
> > > Mike Romain says...
> > > > Dale Beckett wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) ------ III says...
> > > [snip]
> > > >{SNIP}
> >
> > I ran a negative battery cable over to the back of the fuse panel and
> > mounted some electrical clamps there for the ground wires. I ran a
> > dedicated 10 ga ground for each harness piece and terminated all of them
> > at the above ground tap.
> >
> > For the solenoid ground, I mounted that to the side of the engine block
> > behind the alternator. The dash also got it's own ground.
> >
> > I soldered the ground tags right onto the outside of the front signal
> > lens
> > sockets and soldered it to the plate inside the rear fixtures.
> >
> > For the rad, I use an old bed frame and just welded up a couple L shapes
> > and used old rad hose squares as vibration washers. It held for 5 years
> > of heavy off roading and one roll over. I finally twisted up enough
> > last fall to snap the metal side strap on the rad, so welded a 1"x1/8"
> > bar along the outside of the rad like [. That held until last week when
> > I snapped the other side on an off road trip. I am just welding that
> > one up today for the next 4 day trip tomorrow. My Rad will now have
> > heavy brackets on both sides like [=====] . :-)
> >
> > You have to watch the roll bar height. The floor can be too thick so
> > the hard top might not fit on. The heater was a bit of a pain to fit
> > flush so I use spacers and left it pointing a bit to the passenger
> > side. You cannot see this when looking at it. I think I had to shorten
> > the steering brace by 1/4" or so, no trouble there.
> >
> > I managed to put 6"x1/4"x4" plate under the floor under the roll bar so
> > the frame mount hits the plate and the seat belt is bolted down to it.
> >
> > All in all I love the 'glass body! It was worth the work and is so
> > light my CJ7 is downright scary with the acceleration it has. She goes
> > like a scalded cat thanks to some nice sites like
> > http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
>
> Thanks for the clues on some things I wouldn't have thought of.
> And you're right, that IS a cool site, isn't it? :)
>
> --
>
> Dale Beckett

You are more than welcome. Please feel free to ask if you need more
ideas.

Mike