I can do one in 3 hours easily, hand tools with a cold beer on the
ground beside me...

Figure a half day with 2 guys and some beer... ;-)

Cleaning the oil pan gasket is the worst part. I use a razor blade
knife to get the worst, then I get a brass wheel for a drill and give it
----. A brass wheel isn't as likely to scratch or gouge it.

Then clean it and the block side really good before installing the new
gasket. Acetone, coleman fuel, lighter fluid, brake cleaner, anything to
cut the grease off totally. I like cork gaskets and a skim of RTV on
the metal sides. Seems to work best for me.

The valve cover, which is likely your problem is an easy one to seal
tight too if you do it right.

It has to be super clean, even a fingerprint will cause a leak, with a
thin skim of RTV silicone on the cover and the head with a cork gasket
between. You then tighten the cover 'finger tight' with a small 1/4
drive wrench and don't breathe on it after for 24 hours so the RTV
cures.

It then won't leak.

My plastic one only has the two top valve cover bolts holding it on, no
side bolts and no leaks... :-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ronald Keller wrote:
>
> Is it really as easy as that? No hassling with the engine or the drive
> shaft or anything else? That sounds so easy, I might be tempted to do it
> myself....
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F704A06.3AF6D10C@sympatico.ca...
> > After messing around the top of the engine or the valve cover it leaks?
> >
> > 99% it is the valve cover. Those suckers leak if you look at them
> > sideways, let alone if you do work around them.
> >
> > If you heat up the engine and while it is running run a clean rag across
> > the rear of the head below the valve cover and find oil, you have found
> > the leak.
> >
> > The cover will drip oil down the back center and do a sweet imitation of
> > a rear seal leak.
> >
> > Even if it is a rear seal, it can be done in your driveway in an
> > afternoon. You just have to drop the oil pan and pull off the rear
> > bearing cap to replace the seal.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Ronald Keller wrote:
> > >
> > > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
> that
> > > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> > > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb,
> and
> > > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> > > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
> is
> > > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> > > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
> took it
> > > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
> it's
> > > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
> $1000 to
> > > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> replace
> > > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like
> a
> > > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> > > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One
> and
> > > header.
> > > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390
> CFM
> > > with side hung float, see:
> > > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
> do
> > > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> > > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > > Ron
> >

 

I like to use a nut driver on things like this...

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F70ECAD.8F31AB95@sympatico.ca...
> I can do one in 3 hours easily, hand tools with a cold beer on the
> ground beside me...
>
> Figure a half day with 2 guys and some beer... ;-)
>
> Cleaning the oil pan gasket is the worst part. I use a razor blade
> knife to get the worst, then I get a brass wheel for a drill and give it
> ----. A brass wheel isn't as likely to scratch or gouge it.
>
> Then clean it and the block side really good before installing the new
> gasket. Acetone, coleman fuel, lighter fluid, brake cleaner, anything to
> cut the grease off totally. I like cork gaskets and a skim of RTV on
> the metal sides. Seems to work best for me.
>
> The valve cover, which is likely your problem is an easy one to seal
> tight too if you do it right.
>
> It has to be super clean, even a fingerprint will cause a leak, with a
> thin skim of RTV silicone on the cover and the head with a cork gasket
> between. You then tighten the cover 'finger tight' with a small 1/4
> drive wrench and don't breathe on it after for 24 hours so the RTV
> cures.
>
> It then won't leak.
>
> My plastic one only has the two top valve cover bolts holding it on, no
> side bolts and no leaks... :-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Ronald Keller wrote:
> >
> > Is it really as easy as that? No hassling with the engine or the drive
> > shaft or anything else? That sounds so easy, I might be tempted to do it
> > myself....
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F704A06.3AF6D10C@sympatico.ca...
> > > After messing around the top of the engine or the valve cover it
leaks?
> > >
> > > 99% it is the valve cover. Those suckers leak if you look at them
> > > sideways, let alone if you do work around them.
> > >
> > > If you heat up the engine and while it is running run a clean rag
across
> > > the rear of the head below the valve cover and find oil, you have
found
> > > the leak.
> > >
> > > The cover will drip oil down the back center and do a sweet imitation
of
> > > a rear seal leak.
> > >
> > > Even if it is a rear seal, it can be done in your driveway in an
> > > afternoon. You just have to drop the oil pan and pull off the rear
> > > bearing cap to replace the seal.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Ronald Keller wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the
Jeep
> > that
> > > > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I
just
> > > > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt
carb,
> > and
> > > > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > > > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand
the
> > > > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't
understand
> > is
> > > > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year,
the
> > > > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
> > took it
> > > > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
> > it's
> > > > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
> > $1000 to
> > > > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > > > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> > replace
> > > > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked
like
> > a
> > > > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or
an
> > > > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > > > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > > > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage
One
> > and
> > > > header.
> > > > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a
390
> > CFM
> > > > with side hung float, see:
> > > > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html)
how
> > do
> > > > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really
rich
> > > > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > > > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > > > Ron
> > >

 

I like to use a nut driver on things like this...

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F70ECAD.8F31AB95@sympatico.ca...
> I can do one in 3 hours easily, hand tools with a cold beer on the
> ground beside me...
>
> Figure a half day with 2 guys and some beer... ;-)
>
> Cleaning the oil pan gasket is the worst part. I use a razor blade
> knife to get the worst, then I get a brass wheel for a drill and give it
> ----. A brass wheel isn't as likely to scratch or gouge it.
>
> Then clean it and the block side really good before installing the new
> gasket. Acetone, coleman fuel, lighter fluid, brake cleaner, anything to
> cut the grease off totally. I like cork gaskets and a skim of RTV on
> the metal sides. Seems to work best for me.
>
> The valve cover, which is likely your problem is an easy one to seal
> tight too if you do it right.
>
> It has to be super clean, even a fingerprint will cause a leak, with a
> thin skim of RTV silicone on the cover and the head with a cork gasket
> between. You then tighten the cover 'finger tight' with a small 1/4
> drive wrench and don't breathe on it after for 24 hours so the RTV
> cures.
>
> It then won't leak.
>
> My plastic one only has the two top valve cover bolts holding it on, no
> side bolts and no leaks... :-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Ronald Keller wrote:
> >
> > Is it really as easy as that? No hassling with the engine or the drive
> > shaft or anything else? That sounds so easy, I might be tempted to do it
> > myself....
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F704A06.3AF6D10C@sympatico.ca...
> > > After messing around the top of the engine or the valve cover it
leaks?
> > >
> > > 99% it is the valve cover. Those suckers leak if you look at them
> > > sideways, let alone if you do work around them.
> > >
> > > If you heat up the engine and while it is running run a clean rag
across
> > > the rear of the head below the valve cover and find oil, you have
found
> > > the leak.
> > >
> > > The cover will drip oil down the back center and do a sweet imitation
of
> > > a rear seal leak.
> > >
> > > Even if it is a rear seal, it can be done in your driveway in an
> > > afternoon. You just have to drop the oil pan and pull off the rear
> > > bearing cap to replace the seal.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Ronald Keller wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the
Jeep
> > that
> > > > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I
just
> > > > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt
carb,
> > and
> > > > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > > > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand
the
> > > > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't
understand
> > is
> > > > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year,
the
> > > > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
> > took it
> > > > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
> > it's
> > > > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
> > $1000 to
> > > > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > > > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> > replace
> > > > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked
like
> > a
> > > > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or
an
> > > > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > > > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > > > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage
One
> > and
> > > > header.
> > > > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a
390
> > CFM
> > > > with side hung float, see:
> > > > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html)
how
> > do
> > > > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really
rich
> > > > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > > > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > > > Ron
> > >

 

I can put too much on a nut driver, I snap hose clamps 'way' too
easy... I like the little socket wrench. I hold the head steady with my
first 2 fingers and thumb and use my baby finger for the torque.

Mike

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> I like to use a nut driver on things like this...
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F70ECAD.8F31AB95@sympatico.ca...
> > I can do one in 3 hours easily, hand tools with a cold beer on the
> > ground beside me...
> >
> > Figure a half day with 2 guys and some beer... ;-)
> >
> > Cleaning the oil pan gasket is the worst part. I use a razor blade
> > knife to get the worst, then I get a brass wheel for a drill and give it
> > ----. A brass wheel isn't as likely to scratch or gouge it.
> >
> > Then clean it and the block side really good before installing the new
> > gasket. Acetone, coleman fuel, lighter fluid, brake cleaner, anything to
> > cut the grease off totally. I like cork gaskets and a skim of RTV on
> > the metal sides. Seems to work best for me.
> >
> > The valve cover, which is likely your problem is an easy one to seal
> > tight too if you do it right.
> >
> > It has to be super clean, even a fingerprint will cause a leak, with a
> > thin skim of RTV silicone on the cover and the head with a cork gasket
> > between. You then tighten the cover 'finger tight' with a small 1/4
> > drive wrench and don't breathe on it after for 24 hours so the RTV
> > cures.
> >
> > It then won't leak.
> >
> > My plastic one only has the two top valve cover bolts holding it on, no
> > side bolts and no leaks... :-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Ronald Keller wrote:
> > >
> > > Is it really as easy as that? No hassling with the engine or the drive
> > > shaft or anything else? That sounds so easy, I might be tempted to do it
> > > myself....
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F704A06.3AF6D10C@sympatico.ca...
> > > > After messing around the top of the engine or the valve cover it
> leaks?
> > > >
> > > > 99% it is the valve cover. Those suckers leak if you look at them
> > > > sideways, let alone if you do work around them.
> > > >
> > > > If you heat up the engine and while it is running run a clean rag
> across
> > > > the rear of the head below the valve cover and find oil, you have
> found
> > > > the leak.
> > > >
> > > > The cover will drip oil down the back center and do a sweet imitation
> of
> > > > a rear seal leak.
> > > >
> > > > Even if it is a rear seal, it can be done in your driveway in an
> > > > afternoon. You just have to drop the oil pan and pull off the rear
> > > > bearing cap to replace the seal.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Ronald Keller wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the
> Jeep
> > > that
> > > > > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I
> just
> > > > > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt
> carb,
> > > and
> > > > > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > > > > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand
> the
> > > > > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't
> understand
> > > is
> > > > > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year,
> the
> > > > > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
> > > took it
> > > > > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
> > > it's
> > > > > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
> > > $1000 to
> > > > > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > > > > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> > > replace
> > > > > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked
> like
> > > a
> > > > > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or
> an
> > > > > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > > > > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > > > > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage
> One
> > > and
> > > > > header.
> > > > > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a
> 390
> > > CFM
> > > > > with side hung float, see:
> > > > > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html)
> how
> > > do
> > > > > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really
> rich
> > > > > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > > > > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > > > > Ron
> > > >

 

I can put too much on a nut driver, I snap hose clamps 'way' too
easy... I like the little socket wrench. I hold the head steady with my
first 2 fingers and thumb and use my baby finger for the torque.

Mike

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> I like to use a nut driver on things like this...
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F70ECAD.8F31AB95@sympatico.ca...
> > I can do one in 3 hours easily, hand tools with a cold beer on the
> > ground beside me...
> >
> > Figure a half day with 2 guys and some beer... ;-)
> >
> > Cleaning the oil pan gasket is the worst part. I use a razor blade
> > knife to get the worst, then I get a brass wheel for a drill and give it
> > ----. A brass wheel isn't as likely to scratch or gouge it.
> >
> > Then clean it and the block side really good before installing the new
> > gasket. Acetone, coleman fuel, lighter fluid, brake cleaner, anything to
> > cut the grease off totally. I like cork gaskets and a skim of RTV on
> > the metal sides. Seems to work best for me.
> >
> > The valve cover, which is likely your problem is an easy one to seal
> > tight too if you do it right.
> >
> > It has to be super clean, even a fingerprint will cause a leak, with a
> > thin skim of RTV silicone on the cover and the head with a cork gasket
> > between. You then tighten the cover 'finger tight' with a small 1/4
> > drive wrench and don't breathe on it after for 24 hours so the RTV
> > cures.
> >
> > It then won't leak.
> >
> > My plastic one only has the two top valve cover bolts holding it on, no
> > side bolts and no leaks... :-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Ronald Keller wrote:
> > >
> > > Is it really as easy as that? No hassling with the engine or the drive
> > > shaft or anything else? That sounds so easy, I might be tempted to do it
> > > myself....
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:3F704A06.3AF6D10C@sympatico.ca...
> > > > After messing around the top of the engine or the valve cover it
> leaks?
> > > >
> > > > 99% it is the valve cover. Those suckers leak if you look at them
> > > > sideways, let alone if you do work around them.
> > > >
> > > > If you heat up the engine and while it is running run a clean rag
> across
> > > > the rear of the head below the valve cover and find oil, you have
> found
> > > > the leak.
> > > >
> > > > The cover will drip oil down the back center and do a sweet imitation
> of
> > > > a rear seal leak.
> > > >
> > > > Even if it is a rear seal, it can be done in your driveway in an
> > > > afternoon. You just have to drop the oil pan and pull off the rear
> > > > bearing cap to replace the seal.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Ronald Keller wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the
> Jeep
> > > that
> > > > > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I
> just
> > > > > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt
> carb,
> > > and
> > > > > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > > > > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand
> the
> > > > > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't
> understand
> > > is
> > > > > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year,
> the
> > > > > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
> > > took it
> > > > > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
> > > it's
> > > > > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
> > > $1000 to
> > > > > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > > > > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> > > replace
> > > > > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked
> like
> > > a
> > > > > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or
> an
> > > > > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > > > > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > > > > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage
> One
> > > and
> > > > > header.
> > > > > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a
> 390
> > > CFM
> > > > > with side hung float, see:
> > > > > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html)
> how
> > > do
> > > > > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really
> rich
> > > > > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > > > > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > > > > Ron
> > > >