Jeff Strickland

BEFORE YOU SPEND A SINGLE DIME ON THAT REAR MAIN SEAL, spend a couple of
rolls of dimes on a valve cover gasket.

The oil gets pumped to the top of the motor and drips to the bottom again.
The front of the motor is raised above the rear of the motor, and the gasket
likes to break near the firewall, right next to the low point. Do you
suppose if the oil flowed to the low point and pooled a little before
draining back to the bottom, and there was a hole in the gasket, the oil
would not be able to tell the difference in a hole that drains to the
bottom, and one that drains to the outside?

If you really need a rear main, I'll do the job for $500, and a 12-pack.




"Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:sPMbb.1384$eS5.38@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
that
> would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb, and
> something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
is
> why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I took
it
> to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said it's
> not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted $1000
to
> replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
replace
> all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like a
> sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One and
> header.
> One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390 CFM
> with side hung float, see:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
do
> I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> Ron
>
>

Ronald Keller

Good advice. I went under the Jeep and tightened everything up - I didn'
want to "overtighten", however, I just gave everything a good half turn
(which required some elbow grease). There is still a leak, however....
I'll just keep my eye on it and on the oil level -
Thanks again - Ron

"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:bkogs8$3v661$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> When an engine and driveline gets up to temp and stays there for a good
long
> time, the gaskets and seals begin to do their own thing. Leak or stop
> leaking. My rear ring and pinion seal stopped leaking after a really good
> off-road season. I checked the level and it's still full. My Jeep used
to
> leak somewhere between the engine and bell housing. After feeding it for
a
> month, it quit after I started using it as an everyday driver. I guess
the
> seals and gaskets revitilized themselves. Keep a close eye on them.
Also,
> keep a good eye on the all the bolts to the trany, etc. I noticied mine
had
> loosened some, causing seepage.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:sPMbb.1384$eS5.38@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
> that
> > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb,
and
> > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
> is
> > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
took
> it
> > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
it's
> > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
$1000
> to
> > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> replace
> > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like
a
> > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One
and
> > header.
> > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390
CFM
> > with side hung float, see:
> > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
> do
> > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > Ron
> >
> >
>
>
>

Ronald Keller

Good advice. I went under the Jeep and tightened everything up - I didn'
want to "overtighten", however, I just gave everything a good half turn
(which required some elbow grease). There is still a leak, however....
I'll just keep my eye on it and on the oil level -
Thanks again - Ron

"Paul Brogren" <pibrogren@msn.com> wrote in message
news:bkogs8$3v661$1@ID-190695.news.uni-berlin.de...
> When an engine and driveline gets up to temp and stays there for a good
long
> time, the gaskets and seals begin to do their own thing. Leak or stop
> leaking. My rear ring and pinion seal stopped leaking after a really good
> off-road season. I checked the level and it's still full. My Jeep used
to
> leak somewhere between the engine and bell housing. After feeding it for
a
> month, it quit after I started using it as an everyday driver. I guess
the
> seals and gaskets revitilized themselves. Keep a close eye on them.
Also,
> keep a good eye on the all the bolts to the trany, etc. I noticied mine
had
> loosened some, causing seepage.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
> "Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:sPMbb.1384$eS5.38@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
> that
> > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb,
and
> > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
> is
> > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
took
> it
> > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
it's
> > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
$1000
> to
> > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> replace
> > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like
a
> > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One
and
> > header.
> > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390
CFM
> > with side hung float, see:
> > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
> do
> > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > Ron
> >
> >
>
>
>

Ronald Keller

Where do you live? - I'll bring it over....

Actually, I think (I know) my mechanic was being tongue-in-cheek when he
said it, but it seemed to be more involved that what it was worth - at least
in his opinion.

Hey - if I was going to get it done - anything else I should have done at
the same time, in that location?

Thanks for the advice - Ron

"Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:vmvkc6hb2ofe4@corp.supernews.com...
> > I took it to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he
also
> said it's not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he
> predicted $1000 to
> > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
>
> Yes, your mechanic is a thief! It's about a two hour job to replace, plus
> the cost of the seal, pan gasket, oil & filter. If that comes to $1k, hey,
> bring it on over & I'll do it for you for $950!
>
> It can alos be the vavcle cover gasket, the pan gasket or a host of other
> little places where it can spew. Best thing to do is de-grease the engine
> throroughly wit a good cleaner and high pressure wash. Then run it a good
> ways at temp & look for any signs of seepage. Start at the highest spot on
> the engine & work your way down & around. If there's no upper engine or
> external seal seepage then it's likely the main.
>
>
>

Ronald Keller

Where do you live? - I'll bring it over....

Actually, I think (I know) my mechanic was being tongue-in-cheek when he
said it, but it seemed to be more involved that what it was worth - at least
in his opinion.

Hey - if I was going to get it done - anything else I should have done at
the same time, in that location?

Thanks for the advice - Ron

"Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:vmvkc6hb2ofe4@corp.supernews.com...
> > I took it to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he
also
> said it's not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he
> predicted $1000 to
> > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
>
> Yes, your mechanic is a thief! It's about a two hour job to replace, plus
> the cost of the seal, pan gasket, oil & filter. If that comes to $1k, hey,
> bring it on over & I'll do it for you for $950!
>
> It can alos be the vavcle cover gasket, the pan gasket or a host of other
> little places where it can spew. Best thing to do is de-grease the engine
> throroughly wit a good cleaner and high pressure wash. Then run it a good
> ways at temp & look for any signs of seepage. Start at the highest spot on
> the engine & work your way down & around. If there's no upper engine or
> external seal seepage then it's likely the main.
>
>
>

Ronald Keller

Is it really as easy as that? No hassling with the engine or the drive
shaft or anything else? That sounds so easy, I might be tempted to do it
myself....

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F704A06.3AF6D10C@sympatico.ca...
> After messing around the top of the engine or the valve cover it leaks?
>
> 99% it is the valve cover. Those suckers leak if you look at them
> sideways, let alone if you do work around them.
>
> If you heat up the engine and while it is running run a clean rag across
> the rear of the head below the valve cover and find oil, you have found
> the leak.
>
> The cover will drip oil down the back center and do a sweet imitation of
> a rear seal leak.
>
> Even if it is a rear seal, it can be done in your driveway in an
> afternoon. You just have to drop the oil pan and pull off the rear
> bearing cap to replace the seal.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Ronald Keller wrote:
> >
> > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
that
> > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb,
and
> > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
is
> > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
took it
> > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
it's
> > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
$1000 to
> > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
replace
> > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like
a
> > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One
and
> > header.
> > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390
CFM
> > with side hung float, see:
> > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
do
> > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > Ron
>

Ronald Keller

Is it really as easy as that? No hassling with the engine or the drive
shaft or anything else? That sounds so easy, I might be tempted to do it
myself....

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F704A06.3AF6D10C@sympatico.ca...
> After messing around the top of the engine or the valve cover it leaks?
>
> 99% it is the valve cover. Those suckers leak if you look at them
> sideways, let alone if you do work around them.
>
> If you heat up the engine and while it is running run a clean rag across
> the rear of the head below the valve cover and find oil, you have found
> the leak.
>
> The cover will drip oil down the back center and do a sweet imitation of
> a rear seal leak.
>
> Even if it is a rear seal, it can be done in your driveway in an
> afternoon. You just have to drop the oil pan and pull off the rear
> bearing cap to replace the seal.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Ronald Keller wrote:
> >
> > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
that
> > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb,
and
> > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
is
> > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
took it
> > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
it's
> > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
$1000 to
> > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
replace
> > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like
a
> > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One
and
> > header.
> > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390
CFM
> > with side hung float, see:
> > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
do
> > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > Ron
>

Ronald Keller

Good advice, Jeff. I'll do that this weekend and see if it makes a
difference -

Ron

"Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vn17j5rl8rft84@corp.supernews.com...
> BEFORE YOU SPEND A SINGLE DIME ON THAT REAR MAIN SEAL, spend a couple of
> rolls of dimes on a valve cover gasket.
>
> The oil gets pumped to the top of the motor and drips to the bottom again.
> The front of the motor is raised above the rear of the motor, and the
gasket
> likes to break near the firewall, right next to the low point. Do you
> suppose if the oil flowed to the low point and pooled a little before
> draining back to the bottom, and there was a hole in the gasket, the oil
> would not be able to tell the difference in a hole that drains to the
> bottom, and one that drains to the outside?
>
> If you really need a rear main, I'll do the job for $500, and a 12-pack.
>
>
>
>
> "Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:sPMbb.1384$eS5.38@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
> that
> > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb,
and
> > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
> is
> > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
took
> it
> > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
it's
> > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
$1000
> to
> > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> replace
> > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like
a
> > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One
and
> > header.
> > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390
CFM
> > with side hung float, see:
> > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
> do
> > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > Ron
> >
> >
>
>
>

Ronald Keller

Good advice, Jeff. I'll do that this weekend and see if it makes a
difference -

Ron

"Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vn17j5rl8rft84@corp.supernews.com...
> BEFORE YOU SPEND A SINGLE DIME ON THAT REAR MAIN SEAL, spend a couple of
> rolls of dimes on a valve cover gasket.
>
> The oil gets pumped to the top of the motor and drips to the bottom again.
> The front of the motor is raised above the rear of the motor, and the
gasket
> likes to break near the firewall, right next to the low point. Do you
> suppose if the oil flowed to the low point and pooled a little before
> draining back to the bottom, and there was a hole in the gasket, the oil
> would not be able to tell the difference in a hole that drains to the
> bottom, and one that drains to the outside?
>
> If you really need a rear main, I'll do the job for $500, and a 12-pack.
>
>
>
>
> "Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:sPMbb.1384$eS5.38@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
> > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
> that
> > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb,
and
> > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
> is
> > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
took
> it
> > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
it's
> > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
$1000
> to
> > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> replace
> > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like
a
> > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One
and
> > header.
> > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390
CFM
> > with side hung float, see:
> > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
> do
> > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > Ron
> >
> >
>
>
>

Mike Romain

I can do one in 3 hours easily, hand tools with a cold beer on the
ground beside me...

Figure a half day with 2 guys and some beer... ;-)

Cleaning the oil pan gasket is the worst part. I use a razor blade
knife to get the worst, then I get a brass wheel for a drill and give it
----. A brass wheel isn't as likely to scratch or gouge it.

Then clean it and the block side really good before installing the new
gasket. Acetone, coleman fuel, lighter fluid, brake cleaner, anything to
cut the grease off totally. I like cork gaskets and a skim of RTV on
the metal sides. Seems to work best for me.

The valve cover, which is likely your problem is an easy one to seal
tight too if you do it right.

It has to be super clean, even a fingerprint will cause a leak, with a
thin skim of RTV silicone on the cover and the head with a cork gasket
between. You then tighten the cover 'finger tight' with a small 1/4
drive wrench and don't breathe on it after for 24 hours so the RTV
cures.

It then won't leak.

My plastic one only has the two top valve cover bolts holding it on, no
side bolts and no leaks... :-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ronald Keller wrote:
>
> Is it really as easy as that? No hassling with the engine or the drive
> shaft or anything else? That sounds so easy, I might be tempted to do it
> myself....
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F704A06.3AF6D10C@sympatico.ca...
> > After messing around the top of the engine or the valve cover it leaks?
> >
> > 99% it is the valve cover. Those suckers leak if you look at them
> > sideways, let alone if you do work around them.
> >
> > If you heat up the engine and while it is running run a clean rag across
> > the rear of the head below the valve cover and find oil, you have found
> > the leak.
> >
> > The cover will drip oil down the back center and do a sweet imitation of
> > a rear seal leak.
> >
> > Even if it is a rear seal, it can be done in your driveway in an
> > afternoon. You just have to drop the oil pan and pull off the rear
> > bearing cap to replace the seal.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Ronald Keller wrote:
> > >
> > > Okay, so y'all helped me with my last dilemma (the mystery of the Jeep
> that
> > > would run for fifteen minutes then die for the rest of the day....I just
> > > replaced everything between the Fuel Tank and the newly rebuilt carb,
> and
> > > something did the trick!), so maybe you can help me with a question:
> > > This is my second twenty year old (almost) Jeep, so I understand the
> > > concept of old Jeeps leaking oil. No big deal. What I don't understand
> is
> > > why it sometimes leaks oil and sometimes doesn't. For about a year, the
> > > Jeep leaked nary a drop. Now (after the fuel problem), it leaks. I
> took it
> > > to my mechanic, and he said it was the rear main seal - he also said
> it's
> > > not worth fixing for the small amount that is leaking (he predicted
> $1000 to
> > > replace the seal right - any thoughts on that?).
> > > I remember on my 78 CJ5 when I bought it, the first thing I did was
> replace
> > > all of the fluids with synthetics. Big mistake. The thing leaked like
> a
> > > sieve. Perhaps on this one, I should use a slightly thicker oil or an
> > > additive for older engines.....any thoughts on that? I live in FLA,
> > > however, so I don't want anything too heavy.
> > > BTW: It's an 84 CJ7 with a partially rebuilt 258, Clifford Stage One
> and
> > > header.
> > > One other question: On a Holley Carb (Model 4160, I think - it's a 390
> CFM
> > > with side hung float, see:
> > > http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html) how
> do
> > > I lean it out? Since I had it rebuilt, the exhaust gases is really rich
> > > smelling - burns your eyes if you get too close.....Which screw do I
> > > adjust??? Thanks - I appreciate the advice!!!!
> > > Ron
> >