Mike Romain

Umm yes, you are getting the right idea.

The alternator can be grounded to the firewall or the battery negative.
The fact the case has a ground wire likely means the bracket has rusted
beyond continuity for a ground path.

Normally the mesh ground strap goes from one of the head or intake
manifold bolts up to the center of the firewall. Then a second mesh
ground jumps from one side of an engine mount to the frame on the other
side.

I would also run a dedicated ground to one of the bolts holding on the
regulator too just so rusty fender bolts don't interfere with it's
signal.

Mike

Mel wrote:
>
> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
> have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)
>
> Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
> (AMC 304)
>
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
> everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
> frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
> back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?
>
> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
> external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
> with the new pieces.
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
> Mel
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> > A connection comes to my mind.
> >
> > The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> > wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> > have one from the battery to the firewall too.
> >
> > If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> > the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> > ground too.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jerry McG

"Mel" <mel@flatheadsoccer.com> wrote in message
news:3591af01.0405130259.2e4d58e9@posting.google.c om...
> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block?

You, that's a bad thing, indeed.

>I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. <

You need grounds from the battery negative to the body, generally at the
firewall, and from the block to the frame.

Fwiw, when I started restoring mine it had been generally butchered by
previous owners. It had no body ground, which meant the only ground came
from the speedo cable. All the gauges were screwey, some beyond repair, and
the lights, well..don;t ask. A simple jumper cable attached from the
negative trerm. on the battery to the body and everytihng started working
correctly. It was not a coincidence I found a new alternator and battery had
just been installed!

The engine to frame ground should a shorth, heavy wire on the left side of
the block and runs under the left side motor mount to the frame horn.
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the frame, I'll
do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the back of the alt,
run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?<

If you have the original alt bracket it is metal and therefore will ground
to the frame as long as the block to frame ground wire is installed.

> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is external.
When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now<

Sorry, I was referring to the 6 cyl, which uses a Delco alt with internal
regulator. I'm not sure what color the ign module is on the 304, but it
should be on the right inner fenderwell regtardless.

Jerry McG

"Mel" <mel@flatheadsoccer.com> wrote in message
news:3591af01.0405130259.2e4d58e9@posting.google.c om...
> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block?

You, that's a bad thing, indeed.

>I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. <

You need grounds from the battery negative to the body, generally at the
firewall, and from the block to the frame.

Fwiw, when I started restoring mine it had been generally butchered by
previous owners. It had no body ground, which meant the only ground came
from the speedo cable. All the gauges were screwey, some beyond repair, and
the lights, well..don;t ask. A simple jumper cable attached from the
negative trerm. on the battery to the body and everytihng started working
correctly. It was not a coincidence I found a new alternator and battery had
just been installed!

The engine to frame ground should a shorth, heavy wire on the left side of
the block and runs under the left side motor mount to the frame horn.
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the frame, I'll
do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the back of the alt,
run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?<

If you have the original alt bracket it is metal and therefore will ground
to the frame as long as the block to frame ground wire is installed.

> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is external.
When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now<

Sorry, I was referring to the 6 cyl, which uses a Delco alt with internal
regulator. I'm not sure what color the ign module is on the 304, but it
should be on the right inner fenderwell regtardless.

Jerry McG

"Mel" <mel@flatheadsoccer.com> wrote in message
news:3591af01.0405130259.2e4d58e9@posting.google.c om...
> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block?

You, that's a bad thing, indeed.

>I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. <

You need grounds from the battery negative to the body, generally at the
firewall, and from the block to the frame.

Fwiw, when I started restoring mine it had been generally butchered by
previous owners. It had no body ground, which meant the only ground came
from the speedo cable. All the gauges were screwey, some beyond repair, and
the lights, well..don;t ask. A simple jumper cable attached from the
negative trerm. on the battery to the body and everytihng started working
correctly. It was not a coincidence I found a new alternator and battery had
just been installed!

The engine to frame ground should a shorth, heavy wire on the left side of
the block and runs under the left side motor mount to the frame horn.
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the frame, I'll
do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the back of the alt,
run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?<

If you have the original alt bracket it is metal and therefore will ground
to the frame as long as the block to frame ground wire is installed.

> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is external.
When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now<

Sorry, I was referring to the 6 cyl, which uses a Delco alt with internal
regulator. I'm not sure what color the ign module is on the 304, but it
should be on the right inner fenderwell regtardless.

Jerry McG

"Mel" <mel@flatheadsoccer.com> wrote in message
news:3591af01.0405130259.2e4d58e9@posting.google.c om...
> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block?

You, that's a bad thing, indeed.

>I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. <

You need grounds from the battery negative to the body, generally at the
firewall, and from the block to the frame.

Fwiw, when I started restoring mine it had been generally butchered by
previous owners. It had no body ground, which meant the only ground came
from the speedo cable. All the gauges were screwey, some beyond repair, and
the lights, well..don;t ask. A simple jumper cable attached from the
negative trerm. on the battery to the body and everytihng started working
correctly. It was not a coincidence I found a new alternator and battery had
just been installed!

The engine to frame ground should a shorth, heavy wire on the left side of
the block and runs under the left side motor mount to the frame horn.
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the frame, I'll
do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the back of the alt,
run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?<

If you have the original alt bracket it is metal and therefore will ground
to the frame as long as the block to frame ground wire is installed.

> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is external.
When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now<

Sorry, I was referring to the 6 cyl, which uses a Delco alt with internal
regulator. I'm not sure what color the ign module is on the 304, but it
should be on the right inner fenderwell regtardless.

Lee Ayrton

The factory negative battery cable for 1976 had a tag line that ran from
the battery terminal clamp to a bolt near the passenger-side grill brace
on the firewall. If your cable has been replaced the PO might have
thought the body ground it wasn't needed.


On Thu, 13 May 2004, Mel wrote:

> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
> have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)
>
> Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
> (AMC 304)
>
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
> everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
> frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
> back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?
>
> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
> external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
> with the new pieces.
>
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
>
> Mel
>
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> > A connection comes to my mind.
> >
> > The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> > wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> > have one from the battery to the firewall too.
> >
> > If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> > the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> > ground too.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

Lee Ayrton

The factory negative battery cable for 1976 had a tag line that ran from
the battery terminal clamp to a bolt near the passenger-side grill brace
on the firewall. If your cable has been replaced the PO might have
thought the body ground it wasn't needed.


On Thu, 13 May 2004, Mel wrote:

> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
> have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)
>
> Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
> (AMC 304)
>
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
> everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
> frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
> back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?
>
> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
> external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
> with the new pieces.
>
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
>
> Mel
>
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> > A connection comes to my mind.
> >
> > The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> > wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> > have one from the battery to the firewall too.
> >
> > If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> > the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> > ground too.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

Lee Ayrton

The factory negative battery cable for 1976 had a tag line that ran from
the battery terminal clamp to a bolt near the passenger-side grill brace
on the firewall. If your cable has been replaced the PO might have
thought the body ground it wasn't needed.


On Thu, 13 May 2004, Mel wrote:

> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
> have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)
>
> Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
> (AMC 304)
>
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
> everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
> frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
> back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?
>
> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
> external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
> with the new pieces.
>
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
>
> Mel
>
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> > A connection comes to my mind.
> >
> > The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> > wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> > have one from the battery to the firewall too.
> >
> > If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> > the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> > ground too.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

Lee Ayrton

The factory negative battery cable for 1976 had a tag line that ran from
the battery terminal clamp to a bolt near the passenger-side grill brace
on the firewall. If your cable has been replaced the PO might have
thought the body ground it wasn't needed.


On Thu, 13 May 2004, Mel wrote:

> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
> have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)
>
> Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
> (AMC 304)
>
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
> everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
> frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
> back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?
>
> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
> external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
> with the new pieces.
>
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
>
> Mel
>
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> > A connection comes to my mind.
> >
> > The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> > wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> > have one from the battery to the firewall too.
> >
> > If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> > the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> > ground too.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>