johnny

you should disconnect the positive lead of the battery, then place a
multimeter in current mode in series with the battery and the battery cable.
then check to see if any current is flowing with everything off(use at least
5 amp range to start)
then lower the scale until you can see a few milliamps or maybe 1/4 to 1 amp
flow.
then start pulling fuses or disconnecting wires until you see the current
flow stop. fix that bad circuit and the battery will probably stay charged.
john
"Mel" <mel@flatheadsoccer.com> wrote in message
news:3591af01.0405120455.76b2f8be@posting.google.c om...
> Bought a 76 CJ5 a couple of weeks ago (Hooo-Yahh!) Couple of days
> after I bought it she wouldnt start. Replaced battery. Couple of
> days later, she wouldnt start, battery was dead. Replaced alternator
> & external voltage regulator. As the days went by... engine developed
> 'irregularities': sputtering, backfiring, stalling. Some days it
> would crank right up and idle nice and smooth... other days it would
> take me 10 minutes of cranking to get it to fire, and then it would
> sputter and cough and backfire and generally have a bad attitude all
> day long. She finally stalled out at a light and refused to cooperate
> any further. Got it over to the local starter and alternator guy
> (local mechanic with a good reputation) and he replaced the ignition
> module & a piece called a pick-up coil? Or maybe it was the 'pick-up'
> piece of the coil? Anyways... she fired right up and idled smooth
> when I picked it up. I was happy. Drove it the rest of the
> afternoon, and into the evening. Had the lights on all evening, and I
> noticed the lights getting dimmer, and the engine running rougher.
> Didnt like low gears/low torque.. didnt want to drive down the block
> in 2nd (coughing/sputtering) but when I shifted up to 3rd, it would
> idle along better. Had to wait to pick up my daughter from dance, so
> I sat outside with the lights off and the engine idling waiting for
> her. Was idling ok, but I was nervous about getting home fer sure!
> Finally had to go in and get her, so I turned off the engine. Of
> course, battery was dead when I got back out there. Jumped it the
> next day (yesterday), got it home no problem. This morning I was
> encouraged when it wanted to turn over, but she wont start. Now the
> battery is dead again.
>
> Recap:
> 76 CJ5 w/AMC 304
> New battery
> New alternator
> New voltage regulator
> New ignition module
> new pick-up coil
> fan belt still tight, can't turn alternator fan by hand.
> dont have a multi-meter yet, getting one this weekend.
>
> mechanic said I needed to change plugs cause of all the gas that had
> been dumping on them as I was trying to start it, so gonna do that
> this weekend. Gonna start replacing plugs, wires, filters, etc... but
> methinks it's something deeper.
>
> did I mention the wiring is a nightmare? previous owner had a wire
> fetish... I've pulled out 3 miles of wire that didnt go anywhere. He
> has lights mounted everywhere (purple lights UNDER the tub, mounted to
> the frame?? .:shudder:.) There's wires hanging everywhere, some hot,
> some not (got a little tester with a bulb). New harness is on my wish
> list, but spool of wire and cutters and solder iron more budget
> realistic. The headlights, for example, come on and off. The cheap
> little 'fog-lights' dude wired up shine great, but the headlights?
> Nope... the little floor-kicker for the dims/brights is severly
> rusted, and by nudging it I can get the lights to stay lit up...
> yikes.
>
> Any suggestions for something I need to check first? This weekend
> I'll check out the alternator and every connection I can find with the
> multi-meter, but is there something obvious I need to know? The
> 'Charging System' so to speak, is obviously in trouble.. but what's
> the cure?
>
> thanks!
>
> Mel

johnny

you should disconnect the positive lead of the battery, then place a
multimeter in current mode in series with the battery and the battery cable.
then check to see if any current is flowing with everything off(use at least
5 amp range to start)
then lower the scale until you can see a few milliamps or maybe 1/4 to 1 amp
flow.
then start pulling fuses or disconnecting wires until you see the current
flow stop. fix that bad circuit and the battery will probably stay charged.
john
"Mel" <mel@flatheadsoccer.com> wrote in message
news:3591af01.0405120455.76b2f8be@posting.google.c om...
> Bought a 76 CJ5 a couple of weeks ago (Hooo-Yahh!) Couple of days
> after I bought it she wouldnt start. Replaced battery. Couple of
> days later, she wouldnt start, battery was dead. Replaced alternator
> & external voltage regulator. As the days went by... engine developed
> 'irregularities': sputtering, backfiring, stalling. Some days it
> would crank right up and idle nice and smooth... other days it would
> take me 10 minutes of cranking to get it to fire, and then it would
> sputter and cough and backfire and generally have a bad attitude all
> day long. She finally stalled out at a light and refused to cooperate
> any further. Got it over to the local starter and alternator guy
> (local mechanic with a good reputation) and he replaced the ignition
> module & a piece called a pick-up coil? Or maybe it was the 'pick-up'
> piece of the coil? Anyways... she fired right up and idled smooth
> when I picked it up. I was happy. Drove it the rest of the
> afternoon, and into the evening. Had the lights on all evening, and I
> noticed the lights getting dimmer, and the engine running rougher.
> Didnt like low gears/low torque.. didnt want to drive down the block
> in 2nd (coughing/sputtering) but when I shifted up to 3rd, it would
> idle along better. Had to wait to pick up my daughter from dance, so
> I sat outside with the lights off and the engine idling waiting for
> her. Was idling ok, but I was nervous about getting home fer sure!
> Finally had to go in and get her, so I turned off the engine. Of
> course, battery was dead when I got back out there. Jumped it the
> next day (yesterday), got it home no problem. This morning I was
> encouraged when it wanted to turn over, but she wont start. Now the
> battery is dead again.
>
> Recap:
> 76 CJ5 w/AMC 304
> New battery
> New alternator
> New voltage regulator
> New ignition module
> new pick-up coil
> fan belt still tight, can't turn alternator fan by hand.
> dont have a multi-meter yet, getting one this weekend.
>
> mechanic said I needed to change plugs cause of all the gas that had
> been dumping on them as I was trying to start it, so gonna do that
> this weekend. Gonna start replacing plugs, wires, filters, etc... but
> methinks it's something deeper.
>
> did I mention the wiring is a nightmare? previous owner had a wire
> fetish... I've pulled out 3 miles of wire that didnt go anywhere. He
> has lights mounted everywhere (purple lights UNDER the tub, mounted to
> the frame?? .:shudder:.) There's wires hanging everywhere, some hot,
> some not (got a little tester with a bulb). New harness is on my wish
> list, but spool of wire and cutters and solder iron more budget
> realistic. The headlights, for example, come on and off. The cheap
> little 'fog-lights' dude wired up shine great, but the headlights?
> Nope... the little floor-kicker for the dims/brights is severly
> rusted, and by nudging it I can get the lights to stay lit up...
> yikes.
>
> Any suggestions for something I need to check first? This weekend
> I'll check out the alternator and every connection I can find with the
> multi-meter, but is there something obvious I need to know? The
> 'Charging System' so to speak, is obviously in trouble.. but what's
> the cure?
>
> thanks!
>
> Mel

johnny

you should disconnect the positive lead of the battery, then place a
multimeter in current mode in series with the battery and the battery cable.
then check to see if any current is flowing with everything off(use at least
5 amp range to start)
then lower the scale until you can see a few milliamps or maybe 1/4 to 1 amp
flow.
then start pulling fuses or disconnecting wires until you see the current
flow stop. fix that bad circuit and the battery will probably stay charged.
john
"Mel" <mel@flatheadsoccer.com> wrote in message
news:3591af01.0405120455.76b2f8be@posting.google.c om...
> Bought a 76 CJ5 a couple of weeks ago (Hooo-Yahh!) Couple of days
> after I bought it she wouldnt start. Replaced battery. Couple of
> days later, she wouldnt start, battery was dead. Replaced alternator
> & external voltage regulator. As the days went by... engine developed
> 'irregularities': sputtering, backfiring, stalling. Some days it
> would crank right up and idle nice and smooth... other days it would
> take me 10 minutes of cranking to get it to fire, and then it would
> sputter and cough and backfire and generally have a bad attitude all
> day long. She finally stalled out at a light and refused to cooperate
> any further. Got it over to the local starter and alternator guy
> (local mechanic with a good reputation) and he replaced the ignition
> module & a piece called a pick-up coil? Or maybe it was the 'pick-up'
> piece of the coil? Anyways... she fired right up and idled smooth
> when I picked it up. I was happy. Drove it the rest of the
> afternoon, and into the evening. Had the lights on all evening, and I
> noticed the lights getting dimmer, and the engine running rougher.
> Didnt like low gears/low torque.. didnt want to drive down the block
> in 2nd (coughing/sputtering) but when I shifted up to 3rd, it would
> idle along better. Had to wait to pick up my daughter from dance, so
> I sat outside with the lights off and the engine idling waiting for
> her. Was idling ok, but I was nervous about getting home fer sure!
> Finally had to go in and get her, so I turned off the engine. Of
> course, battery was dead when I got back out there. Jumped it the
> next day (yesterday), got it home no problem. This morning I was
> encouraged when it wanted to turn over, but she wont start. Now the
> battery is dead again.
>
> Recap:
> 76 CJ5 w/AMC 304
> New battery
> New alternator
> New voltage regulator
> New ignition module
> new pick-up coil
> fan belt still tight, can't turn alternator fan by hand.
> dont have a multi-meter yet, getting one this weekend.
>
> mechanic said I needed to change plugs cause of all the gas that had
> been dumping on them as I was trying to start it, so gonna do that
> this weekend. Gonna start replacing plugs, wires, filters, etc... but
> methinks it's something deeper.
>
> did I mention the wiring is a nightmare? previous owner had a wire
> fetish... I've pulled out 3 miles of wire that didnt go anywhere. He
> has lights mounted everywhere (purple lights UNDER the tub, mounted to
> the frame?? .:shudder:.) There's wires hanging everywhere, some hot,
> some not (got a little tester with a bulb). New harness is on my wish
> list, but spool of wire and cutters and solder iron more budget
> realistic. The headlights, for example, come on and off. The cheap
> little 'fog-lights' dude wired up shine great, but the headlights?
> Nope... the little floor-kicker for the dims/brights is severly
> rusted, and by nudging it I can get the lights to stay lit up...
> yikes.
>
> Any suggestions for something I need to check first? This weekend
> I'll check out the alternator and every connection I can find with the
> multi-meter, but is there something obvious I need to know? The
> 'Charging System' so to speak, is obviously in trouble.. but what's
> the cure?
>
> thanks!
>
> Mel

Mel

....so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)

Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
(AMC 304)

I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?

Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
with the new pieces.


Thanks everyone!


Mel


Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> A connection comes to my mind.
>
> The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> have one from the battery to the firewall too.
>
> If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> ground too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mel

....so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)

Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
(AMC 304)

I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?

Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
with the new pieces.


Thanks everyone!


Mel


Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> A connection comes to my mind.
>
> The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> have one from the battery to the firewall too.
>
> If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> ground too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mel

....so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)

Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
(AMC 304)

I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?

Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
with the new pieces.


Thanks everyone!


Mel


Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> A connection comes to my mind.
>
> The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> have one from the battery to the firewall too.
>
> If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> ground too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mel

....so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)

Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
(AMC 304)

I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?

Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
with the new pieces.


Thanks everyone!


Mel


Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> A connection comes to my mind.
>
> The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> have one from the battery to the firewall too.
>
> If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> ground too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike Romain

Umm yes, you are getting the right idea.

The alternator can be grounded to the firewall or the battery negative.
The fact the case has a ground wire likely means the bracket has rusted
beyond continuity for a ground path.

Normally the mesh ground strap goes from one of the head or intake
manifold bolts up to the center of the firewall. Then a second mesh
ground jumps from one side of an engine mount to the frame on the other
side.

I would also run a dedicated ground to one of the bolts holding on the
regulator too just so rusty fender bolts don't interfere with it's
signal.

Mike

Mel wrote:
>
> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
> have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)
>
> Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
> (AMC 304)
>
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
> everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
> frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
> back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?
>
> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
> external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
> with the new pieces.
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
> Mel
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> > A connection comes to my mind.
> >
> > The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> > wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> > have one from the battery to the firewall too.
> >
> > If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> > the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> > ground too.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike Romain

Umm yes, you are getting the right idea.

The alternator can be grounded to the firewall or the battery negative.
The fact the case has a ground wire likely means the bracket has rusted
beyond continuity for a ground path.

Normally the mesh ground strap goes from one of the head or intake
manifold bolts up to the center of the firewall. Then a second mesh
ground jumps from one side of an engine mount to the frame on the other
side.

I would also run a dedicated ground to one of the bolts holding on the
regulator too just so rusty fender bolts don't interfere with it's
signal.

Mike

Mel wrote:
>
> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
> have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)
>
> Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
> (AMC 304)
>
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
> everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
> frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
> back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?
>
> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
> external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
> with the new pieces.
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
> Mel
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> > A connection comes to my mind.
> >
> > The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> > wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> > have one from the battery to the firewall too.
> >
> > If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> > the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> > ground too.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike Romain

Umm yes, you are getting the right idea.

The alternator can be grounded to the firewall or the battery negative.
The fact the case has a ground wire likely means the bracket has rusted
beyond continuity for a ground path.

Normally the mesh ground strap goes from one of the head or intake
manifold bolts up to the center of the firewall. Then a second mesh
ground jumps from one side of an engine mount to the frame on the other
side.

I would also run a dedicated ground to one of the bolts holding on the
regulator too just so rusty fender bolts don't interfere with it's
signal.

Mike

Mel wrote:
>
> ...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from
> the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs
> into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I
> have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)
>
> Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run?
> (AMC 304)
>
> I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding
> everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the
> frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the
> back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?
>
> Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is
> external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now
> with the new pieces.
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
> Mel
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40A23D60.F8935246@sympatico.ca>...
> > A connection comes to my mind.
> >
> > The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the
> > wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might
> > have one from the battery to the firewall too.
> >
> > If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and
> > the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good
> > ground too.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's