73 cj5 ignition switch
05-25-2004, 02:11 AM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
Good post Lee. Just wanted to add that the smaller wire coming off the starter
solenoid, supplying the ign switch with B+, must use a fusible link at the
solenoid.
In message <Pine.NEB.4.58.0405241006550.22171@panix1.panix.co m>, "Lee Ayrton"
wrote:
>On Mon, 24 May 2004, KC wrote:
>
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>
>This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
>should be close enough for your purposes.
>
>The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
>relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
>feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
>[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
>
>Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
>cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
>relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
>battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
>terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
>switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
>
>The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
>connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
>someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
>so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
>
>Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
>terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
>the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
>found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
>burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
>full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
>cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
>can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
>from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
>
>
>Schematic:
>
>
> -----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
> |
> \ __________
>TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
> ! | | !
> ! | | ! Starter relay
> !_| __ |_!
> | |
> | |
> | --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
> |
> |
> |
> |----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
> | Ballast
> | resistor
> |
> |
> | ___
> | ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
> __\__! !__/_
> ! [+] [-] !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! COIL !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> !____________!
>
>
>
>Good luck.
>
solenoid, supplying the ign switch with B+, must use a fusible link at the
solenoid.
In message <Pine.NEB.4.58.0405241006550.22171@panix1.panix.co m>, "Lee Ayrton"
wrote:
>On Mon, 24 May 2004, KC wrote:
>
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>
>This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
>should be close enough for your purposes.
>
>The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
>relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
>feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
>[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
>
>Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
>cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
>relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
>battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
>terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
>switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
>
>The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
>connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
>someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
>so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
>
>Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
>terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
>the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
>found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
>burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
>full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
>cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
>can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
>from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
>
>
>Schematic:
>
>
> -----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
> |
> \ __________
>TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
> ! | | !
> ! | | ! Starter relay
> !_| __ |_!
> | |
> | |
> | --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
> |
> |
> |
> |----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
> | Ballast
> | resistor
> |
> |
> | ___
> | ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
> __\__! !__/_
> ! [+] [-] !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! COIL !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> !____________!
>
>
>
>Good luck.
>
05-25-2004, 02:11 AM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
Good post Lee. Just wanted to add that the smaller wire coming off the starter
solenoid, supplying the ign switch with B+, must use a fusible link at the
solenoid.
In message <Pine.NEB.4.58.0405241006550.22171@panix1.panix.co m>, "Lee Ayrton"
wrote:
>On Mon, 24 May 2004, KC wrote:
>
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>
>This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
>should be close enough for your purposes.
>
>The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
>relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
>feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
>[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
>
>Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
>cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
>relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
>battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
>terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
>switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
>
>The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
>connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
>someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
>so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
>
>Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
>terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
>the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
>found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
>burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
>full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
>cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
>can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
>from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
>
>
>Schematic:
>
>
> -----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
> |
> \ __________
>TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
> ! | | !
> ! | | ! Starter relay
> !_| __ |_!
> | |
> | |
> | --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
> |
> |
> |
> |----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
> | Ballast
> | resistor
> |
> |
> | ___
> | ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
> __\__! !__/_
> ! [+] [-] !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! COIL !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> !____________!
>
>
>
>Good luck.
>
solenoid, supplying the ign switch with B+, must use a fusible link at the
solenoid.
In message <Pine.NEB.4.58.0405241006550.22171@panix1.panix.co m>, "Lee Ayrton"
wrote:
>On Mon, 24 May 2004, KC wrote:
>
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>
>This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
>should be close enough for your purposes.
>
>The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
>relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
>feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
>[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
>
>Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
>cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
>relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
>battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
>terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
>switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
>
>The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
>connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
>someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
>so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
>
>Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
>terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
>the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
>found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
>burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
>full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
>cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
>can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
>from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
>
>
>Schematic:
>
>
> -----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
> |
> \ __________
>TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
> ! | | !
> ! | | ! Starter relay
> !_| __ |_!
> | |
> | |
> | --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
> |
> |
> |
> |----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
> | Ballast
> | resistor
> |
> |
> | ___
> | ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
> __\__! !__/_
> ! [+] [-] !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! COIL !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> !____________!
>
>
>
>Good luck.
>
05-25-2004, 02:11 AM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
Good post Lee. Just wanted to add that the smaller wire coming off the starter
solenoid, supplying the ign switch with B+, must use a fusible link at the
solenoid.
In message <Pine.NEB.4.58.0405241006550.22171@panix1.panix.co m>, "Lee Ayrton"
wrote:
>On Mon, 24 May 2004, KC wrote:
>
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>
>This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
>should be close enough for your purposes.
>
>The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
>relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
>feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
>[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
>
>Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
>cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
>relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
>battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
>terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
>switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
>
>The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
>connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
>someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
>so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
>
>Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
>terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
>the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
>found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
>burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
>full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
>cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
>can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
>from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
>
>
>Schematic:
>
>
> -----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
> |
> \ __________
>TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
> ! | | !
> ! | | ! Starter relay
> !_| __ |_!
> | |
> | |
> | --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
> |
> |
> |
> |----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
> | Ballast
> | resistor
> |
> |
> | ___
> | ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
> __\__! !__/_
> ! [+] [-] !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! COIL !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> !____________!
>
>
>
>Good luck.
>
solenoid, supplying the ign switch with B+, must use a fusible link at the
solenoid.
In message <Pine.NEB.4.58.0405241006550.22171@panix1.panix.co m>, "Lee Ayrton"
wrote:
>On Mon, 24 May 2004, KC wrote:
>
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>
>This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
>should be close enough for your purposes.
>
>The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
>relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
>feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
>[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
>
>Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
>cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
>relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
>battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
>terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
>switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
>
>The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
>connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
>someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
>so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
>
>Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
>terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
>the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
>found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
>burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
>full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
>cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
>can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
>from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
>
>
>Schematic:
>
>
> -----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
> |
> \ __________
>TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
> ! | | !
> ! | | ! Starter relay
> !_| __ |_!
> | |
> | |
> | --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
> |
> |
> |
> |----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
> | Ballast
> | resistor
> |
> |
> | ___
> | ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
> __\__! !__/_
> ! [+] [-] !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! COIL !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> ! !
> !____________!
>
>
>
>Good luck.
>
05-25-2004, 02:13 AM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
If you want it to do stuff like crank & run, then yes, it should. :-)
In message <10b4fne9sd82n3e@corp.supernews.com>, "CRWLR" wrote:
>No.
>
>
>
>"KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:pobsc.23819$Ol3.2610@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>>
>>
>
In message <10b4fne9sd82n3e@corp.supernews.com>, "CRWLR" wrote:
>No.
>
>
>
>"KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:pobsc.23819$Ol3.2610@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>>
>>
>
05-25-2004, 02:13 AM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
If you want it to do stuff like crank & run, then yes, it should. :-)
In message <10b4fne9sd82n3e@corp.supernews.com>, "CRWLR" wrote:
>No.
>
>
>
>"KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:pobsc.23819$Ol3.2610@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>>
>>
>
In message <10b4fne9sd82n3e@corp.supernews.com>, "CRWLR" wrote:
>No.
>
>
>
>"KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:pobsc.23819$Ol3.2610@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>>
>>
>
05-25-2004, 02:13 AM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
If you want it to do stuff like crank & run, then yes, it should. :-)
In message <10b4fne9sd82n3e@corp.supernews.com>, "CRWLR" wrote:
>No.
>
>
>
>"KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:pobsc.23819$Ol3.2610@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>>
>>
>
In message <10b4fne9sd82n3e@corp.supernews.com>, "CRWLR" wrote:
>No.
>
>
>
>"KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:pobsc.23819$Ol3.2610@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>>
>>
>
05-25-2004, 02:13 AM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
If you want it to do stuff like crank & run, then yes, it should. :-)
In message <10b4fne9sd82n3e@corp.supernews.com>, "CRWLR" wrote:
>No.
>
>
>
>"KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:pobsc.23819$Ol3.2610@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>>
>>
>
In message <10b4fne9sd82n3e@corp.supernews.com>, "CRWLR" wrote:
>No.
>
>
>
>"KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:pobsc.23819$Ol3.2610@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
>> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
>>
>>
>
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