Mike chambers

Hay Dan
The four cyl. Works fine. Yes they are very slow going up a hill. I run
with a bunch of guy's who run V8's . Every year on are trip to Silver
Lake sand dunes I have to tow one of them out. Sure I dont fly up the
hills like they do . but its still fun. I also drive mine the 21/2 hour
trip to the dunes and drive back home. They trailer there Jeeps.
Anouther guy I wheel with is big into mud. I go with him alot also. I
get stuck just as much as him with his 8. I have a winch so it's not
that big of a deal . I'm more into trail rides. So it works good. Right
now i'm changeing gears to 4.88's . That will really make a huge
diffrence. Hope this helps.
Mike
48 *****'s 4cyl
50 *****'s pickup flat head V8
87 YJ 4cyl. 33" winch.

Later Mike

Bret Ludwig

Earle Horton wrote:
> I have worked on and even owned air-cooled vehicles. Radiator problems
> aren't so bad. On the other hand, noise, air leaks, dirt and oil as a
> source of reduced cooling efficiency, and cab heating with contaminated air
> all come to mind. We found out with Volkswagen Beetles and Vans, that air
> cooling efficiency during road use is heavily, heavily dependent on vehicle
> aerodynamics and can even be affected by something as seemingly innocuous as
> opening a window. For crawling, your cooling needs would be a serious
> horsepower drain. This is because at low engine speed any deficiencies in
> the engine cooling system, such as cylinder or head "hot spots", become
> painfully apparent. You have to compensate, by grossly oversizing the fan
> and duct work. Liquid cooling concentrates the heat exchange area and
> thereby solves more problems than it creates.

A well designed air cooled vehicle installation and the VW Beetle are
in fact two different things, although later examples and US
aftermarket upgrades did help a lot.

A Deutz has a big blower and is designed for stationary as well as
vehicle use. In a Jeep I think it would be fine for crawling. As far as
contaminated cabin air-use electric heat or a SouthWind heater and be
done with it. The noise a Deutz makes has to be heard though...on
second thought, American offroaders, who are more interested in showing
off than getting anywhere, maybe this would be a plus instead of a
minus.

Bret Ludwig

Earle Horton wrote:
> I have worked on and even owned air-cooled vehicles. Radiator problems
> aren't so bad. On the other hand, noise, air leaks, dirt and oil as a
> source of reduced cooling efficiency, and cab heating with contaminated air
> all come to mind. We found out with Volkswagen Beetles and Vans, that air
> cooling efficiency during road use is heavily, heavily dependent on vehicle
> aerodynamics and can even be affected by something as seemingly innocuous as
> opening a window. For crawling, your cooling needs would be a serious
> horsepower drain. This is because at low engine speed any deficiencies in
> the engine cooling system, such as cylinder or head "hot spots", become
> painfully apparent. You have to compensate, by grossly oversizing the fan
> and duct work. Liquid cooling concentrates the heat exchange area and
> thereby solves more problems than it creates.

A well designed air cooled vehicle installation and the VW Beetle are
in fact two different things, although later examples and US
aftermarket upgrades did help a lot.

A Deutz has a big blower and is designed for stationary as well as
vehicle use. In a Jeep I think it would be fine for crawling. As far as
contaminated cabin air-use electric heat or a SouthWind heater and be
done with it. The noise a Deutz makes has to be heard though...on
second thought, American offroaders, who are more interested in showing
off than getting anywhere, maybe this would be a plus instead of a
minus.

Bret Ludwig

Earle Horton wrote:
> I have worked on and even owned air-cooled vehicles. Radiator problems
> aren't so bad. On the other hand, noise, air leaks, dirt and oil as a
> source of reduced cooling efficiency, and cab heating with contaminated air
> all come to mind. We found out with Volkswagen Beetles and Vans, that air
> cooling efficiency during road use is heavily, heavily dependent on vehicle
> aerodynamics and can even be affected by something as seemingly innocuous as
> opening a window. For crawling, your cooling needs would be a serious
> horsepower drain. This is because at low engine speed any deficiencies in
> the engine cooling system, such as cylinder or head "hot spots", become
> painfully apparent. You have to compensate, by grossly oversizing the fan
> and duct work. Liquid cooling concentrates the heat exchange area and
> thereby solves more problems than it creates.

A well designed air cooled vehicle installation and the VW Beetle are
in fact two different things, although later examples and US
aftermarket upgrades did help a lot.

A Deutz has a big blower and is designed for stationary as well as
vehicle use. In a Jeep I think it would be fine for crawling. As far as
contaminated cabin air-use electric heat or a SouthWind heater and be
done with it. The noise a Deutz makes has to be heard though...on
second thought, American offroaders, who are more interested in showing
off than getting anywhere, maybe this would be a plus instead of a
minus.

Jimbo

The 2.5 is fine for what you need IMO but if you must have more power just
buy one with a 4.0 or you will be in upgrade hell spending more than you
would just getting the 6.
Jim
"Dan Hoskin" <danhoskin@nomorespamsympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:kILqf.4077$%N1.586937@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> What does eveybody think of the 4 cyl. 2.5 L powerplant? I have seen a lot
> of good looking Jeeps lately that are exactly what I am after, except the
> 4-banger. Am I being to hard on a good motor, or is a 4 cyl. to light for
> a Jeep? I am not looking for a serious off-roader, but I do want to be
> able to dump three people, gear and a dog in it and drive to hunt camp 350
> km away through the Ontario snow.....
> What about options like aftermarket carbs and exhaust systems to tweak the
> 4 bangers? Any magazines and catalogs I have seen ignore them completely.
> Are they out there or are they not worth doing?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Hoskin
>
>
>
>
>

Jimbo

The 2.5 is fine for what you need IMO but if you must have more power just
buy one with a 4.0 or you will be in upgrade hell spending more than you
would just getting the 6.
Jim
"Dan Hoskin" <danhoskin@nomorespamsympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:kILqf.4077$%N1.586937@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> What does eveybody think of the 4 cyl. 2.5 L powerplant? I have seen a lot
> of good looking Jeeps lately that are exactly what I am after, except the
> 4-banger. Am I being to hard on a good motor, or is a 4 cyl. to light for
> a Jeep? I am not looking for a serious off-roader, but I do want to be
> able to dump three people, gear and a dog in it and drive to hunt camp 350
> km away through the Ontario snow.....
> What about options like aftermarket carbs and exhaust systems to tweak the
> 4 bangers? Any magazines and catalogs I have seen ignore them completely.
> Are they out there or are they not worth doing?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Hoskin
>
>
>
>
>

Jimbo

The 2.5 is fine for what you need IMO but if you must have more power just
buy one with a 4.0 or you will be in upgrade hell spending more than you
would just getting the 6.
Jim
"Dan Hoskin" <danhoskin@nomorespamsympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:kILqf.4077$%N1.586937@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
> What does eveybody think of the 4 cyl. 2.5 L powerplant? I have seen a lot
> of good looking Jeeps lately that are exactly what I am after, except the
> 4-banger. Am I being to hard on a good motor, or is a 4 cyl. to light for
> a Jeep? I am not looking for a serious off-roader, but I do want to be
> able to dump three people, gear and a dog in it and drive to hunt camp 350
> km away through the Ontario snow.....
> What about options like aftermarket carbs and exhaust systems to tweak the
> 4 bangers? Any magazines and catalogs I have seen ignore them completely.
> Are they out there or are they not worth doing?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Hoskin
>
>
>
>
>

Earle Horton

"As far as contaminated cabin air-use electric heat..." How many watts do
you think it takes, to heat a vehicle cabin to a comfortable temperature, in
a reasonable time? You can arrive at a rough estimate using one hundred
watt light bulbs, electrical pig-tails, and a couple of extension cords.
You may need to plug them into separate circuits. You will wind up with a
two thousand watt alternator, at least, to satisfy most people's cabin
heating requirements.

Fuel powered heaters are effective and efficient, but they are a bear to
maintain. You can find a radiator repair shop, or buy a replacement heater
core, in most small towns in the U.S. or even in Europe.

Earle

"Bret Ludwig" <bretldwig@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1135715633.384922.102790@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I have worked on and even owned air-cooled vehicles. Radiator problems
> > aren't so bad. On the other hand, noise, air leaks, dirt and oil as a
> > source of reduced cooling efficiency, and cab heating with contaminated
air
> > all come to mind. We found out with Volkswagen Beetles and Vans, that
air
> > cooling efficiency during road use is heavily, heavily dependent on
vehicle
> > aerodynamics and can even be affected by something as seemingly
innocuous as
> > opening a window. For crawling, your cooling needs would be a serious
> > horsepower drain. This is because at low engine speed any deficiencies
in
> > the engine cooling system, such as cylinder or head "hot spots", become
> > painfully apparent. You have to compensate, by grossly oversizing the
fan
> > and duct work. Liquid cooling concentrates the heat exchange area and
> > thereby solves more problems than it creates.
>
> A well designed air cooled vehicle installation and the VW Beetle are
> in fact two different things, although later examples and US
> aftermarket upgrades did help a lot.
>
> A Deutz has a big blower and is designed for stationary as well as
> vehicle use. In a Jeep I think it would be fine for crawling. As far as
> contaminated cabin air-use electric heat or a SouthWind heater and be
> done with it. The noise a Deutz makes has to be heard though...on
> second thought, American offroaders, who are more interested in showing
> off than getting anywhere, maybe this would be a plus instead of a
> minus.
>

Earle Horton

"As far as contaminated cabin air-use electric heat..." How many watts do
you think it takes, to heat a vehicle cabin to a comfortable temperature, in
a reasonable time? You can arrive at a rough estimate using one hundred
watt light bulbs, electrical pig-tails, and a couple of extension cords.
You may need to plug them into separate circuits. You will wind up with a
two thousand watt alternator, at least, to satisfy most people's cabin
heating requirements.

Fuel powered heaters are effective and efficient, but they are a bear to
maintain. You can find a radiator repair shop, or buy a replacement heater
core, in most small towns in the U.S. or even in Europe.

Earle

"Bret Ludwig" <bretldwig@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1135715633.384922.102790@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I have worked on and even owned air-cooled vehicles. Radiator problems
> > aren't so bad. On the other hand, noise, air leaks, dirt and oil as a
> > source of reduced cooling efficiency, and cab heating with contaminated
air
> > all come to mind. We found out with Volkswagen Beetles and Vans, that
air
> > cooling efficiency during road use is heavily, heavily dependent on
vehicle
> > aerodynamics and can even be affected by something as seemingly
innocuous as
> > opening a window. For crawling, your cooling needs would be a serious
> > horsepower drain. This is because at low engine speed any deficiencies
in
> > the engine cooling system, such as cylinder or head "hot spots", become
> > painfully apparent. You have to compensate, by grossly oversizing the
fan
> > and duct work. Liquid cooling concentrates the heat exchange area and
> > thereby solves more problems than it creates.
>
> A well designed air cooled vehicle installation and the VW Beetle are
> in fact two different things, although later examples and US
> aftermarket upgrades did help a lot.
>
> A Deutz has a big blower and is designed for stationary as well as
> vehicle use. In a Jeep I think it would be fine for crawling. As far as
> contaminated cabin air-use electric heat or a SouthWind heater and be
> done with it. The noise a Deutz makes has to be heard though...on
> second thought, American offroaders, who are more interested in showing
> off than getting anywhere, maybe this would be a plus instead of a
> minus.
>

Earle Horton

"As far as contaminated cabin air-use electric heat..." How many watts do
you think it takes, to heat a vehicle cabin to a comfortable temperature, in
a reasonable time? You can arrive at a rough estimate using one hundred
watt light bulbs, electrical pig-tails, and a couple of extension cords.
You may need to plug them into separate circuits. You will wind up with a
two thousand watt alternator, at least, to satisfy most people's cabin
heating requirements.

Fuel powered heaters are effective and efficient, but they are a bear to
maintain. You can find a radiator repair shop, or buy a replacement heater
core, in most small towns in the U.S. or even in Europe.

Earle

"Bret Ludwig" <bretldwig@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1135715633.384922.102790@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I have worked on and even owned air-cooled vehicles. Radiator problems
> > aren't so bad. On the other hand, noise, air leaks, dirt and oil as a
> > source of reduced cooling efficiency, and cab heating with contaminated
air
> > all come to mind. We found out with Volkswagen Beetles and Vans, that
air
> > cooling efficiency during road use is heavily, heavily dependent on
vehicle
> > aerodynamics and can even be affected by something as seemingly
innocuous as
> > opening a window. For crawling, your cooling needs would be a serious
> > horsepower drain. This is because at low engine speed any deficiencies
in
> > the engine cooling system, such as cylinder or head "hot spots", become
> > painfully apparent. You have to compensate, by grossly oversizing the
fan
> > and duct work. Liquid cooling concentrates the heat exchange area and
> > thereby solves more problems than it creates.
>
> A well designed air cooled vehicle installation and the VW Beetle are
> in fact two different things, although later examples and US
> aftermarket upgrades did help a lot.
>
> A Deutz has a big blower and is designed for stationary as well as
> vehicle use. In a Jeep I think it would be fine for crawling. As far as
> contaminated cabin air-use electric heat or a SouthWind heater and be
> done with it. The noise a Deutz makes has to be heard though...on
> second thought, American offroaders, who are more interested in showing
> off than getting anywhere, maybe this would be a plus instead of a
> minus.
>