Richard Harris

Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth
the work?
Rich
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push
rods.
> I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job
done
> on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was
> going to do this swap but changed his mind.
>
> Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short block
> and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train.
>
> It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from
> http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug.
>
> I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I
had
> to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe.
>
> Just a bunch of little things which did add up.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com...
> > richard-check out this site:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com
> >
> > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and
> pushrods.
> > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this swap
> > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the
> results.
> > william oliveri in this group has done the swap.
> >
> > try here too:
> > http://www.cjoffroad.com
> >
> > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there.
good
> > luck!
> > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know
> about
> > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold and
> > valve
> > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is
it
> > that
> > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to
mention
> > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that
the
> > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to make
> sure
> > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rich
> > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits
front
> > and
> > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous
offroad
> > > related crap.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Richard Harris

Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth
the work?
Rich
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push
rods.
> I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job
done
> on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was
> going to do this swap but changed his mind.
>
> Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short block
> and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train.
>
> It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from
> http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug.
>
> I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I
had
> to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe.
>
> Just a bunch of little things which did add up.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com...
> > richard-check out this site:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com
> >
> > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and
> pushrods.
> > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this swap
> > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the
> results.
> > william oliveri in this group has done the swap.
> >
> > try here too:
> > http://www.cjoffroad.com
> >
> > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there.
good
> > luck!
> > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know
> about
> > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold and
> > valve
> > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is
it
> > that
> > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to
mention
> > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that
the
> > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to make
> sure
> > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rich
> > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits
front
> > and
> > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous
offroad
> > > related crap.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Richard Harris

Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth
the work?
Rich
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push
rods.
> I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job
done
> on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was
> going to do this swap but changed his mind.
>
> Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short block
> and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train.
>
> It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from
> http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug.
>
> I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I
had
> to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe.
>
> Just a bunch of little things which did add up.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com...
> > richard-check out this site:
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com
> >
> > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and
> pushrods.
> > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this swap
> > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the
> results.
> > william oliveri in this group has done the swap.
> >
> > try here too:
> > http://www.cjoffroad.com
> >
> > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there.
good
> > luck!
> > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know
> about
> > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold and
> > valve
> > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is
it
> > that
> > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to
mention
> > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that
the
> > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to make
> sure
> > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rich
> > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits
front
> > and
> > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous
offroad
> > > related crap.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

William Oliveri

I can't give you a clear picture yet as I'm still breaking it in and I need
to get a CV Shaft to tone down the drive shaft vibration after I added my 4"
lift kit. I get this vibration at around 40 mph so I'm being delicate with
it now.

I can let you know further on down the road.


Bill


"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:P%usc.391$eQ5.92@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth
> the work?
> Rich
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push
> rods.
> > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job
> done
> > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was
> > going to do this swap but changed his mind.
> >
> > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short
block
> > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train.
> >
> > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from
> > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug.
> >
> > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I
> had
> > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe.
> >
> > Just a bunch of little things which did add up.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com...
> > > richard-check out this site:
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com
> > >
> > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and
> > pushrods.
> > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this
swap
> > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the
> > results.
> > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap.
> > >
> > > try here too:
> > > http://www.cjoffroad.com
> > >
> > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there.
> good
> > > luck!
> > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know
> > about
> > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold
and
> > > valve
> > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is
> it
> > > that
> > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to
> mention
> > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that
> the
> > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to
make
> > sure
> > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful.
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Rich
> > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits
> front
> > > and
> > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous
> offroad
> > > > related crap.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

William Oliveri

I can't give you a clear picture yet as I'm still breaking it in and I need
to get a CV Shaft to tone down the drive shaft vibration after I added my 4"
lift kit. I get this vibration at around 40 mph so I'm being delicate with
it now.

I can let you know further on down the road.


Bill


"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:P%usc.391$eQ5.92@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth
> the work?
> Rich
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push
> rods.
> > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job
> done
> > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was
> > going to do this swap but changed his mind.
> >
> > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short
block
> > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train.
> >
> > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from
> > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug.
> >
> > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I
> had
> > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe.
> >
> > Just a bunch of little things which did add up.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com...
> > > richard-check out this site:
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com
> > >
> > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and
> > pushrods.
> > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this
swap
> > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the
> > results.
> > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap.
> > >
> > > try here too:
> > > http://www.cjoffroad.com
> > >
> > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there.
> good
> > > luck!
> > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know
> > about
> > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold
and
> > > valve
> > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is
> it
> > > that
> > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to
> mention
> > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that
> the
> > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to
make
> > sure
> > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful.
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Rich
> > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits
> front
> > > and
> > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous
> offroad
> > > > related crap.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

William Oliveri

I can't give you a clear picture yet as I'm still breaking it in and I need
to get a CV Shaft to tone down the drive shaft vibration after I added my 4"
lift kit. I get this vibration at around 40 mph so I'm being delicate with
it now.

I can let you know further on down the road.


Bill


"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:P%usc.391$eQ5.92@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth
> the work?
> Rich
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push
> rods.
> > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job
> done
> > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was
> > going to do this swap but changed his mind.
> >
> > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short
block
> > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train.
> >
> > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from
> > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug.
> >
> > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I
> had
> > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe.
> >
> > Just a bunch of little things which did add up.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com...
> > > richard-check out this site:
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com
> > >
> > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and
> > pushrods.
> > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this
swap
> > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the
> > results.
> > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap.
> > >
> > > try here too:
> > > http://www.cjoffroad.com
> > >
> > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there.
> good
> > > luck!
> > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know
> > about
> > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold
and
> > > valve
> > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is
> it
> > > that
> > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to
> mention
> > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that
> the
> > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to
make
> > sure
> > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful.
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Rich
> > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits
> front
> > > and
> > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous
> offroad
> > > > related crap.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

William Oliveri

I can't give you a clear picture yet as I'm still breaking it in and I need
to get a CV Shaft to tone down the drive shaft vibration after I added my 4"
lift kit. I get this vibration at around 40 mph so I'm being delicate with
it now.

I can let you know further on down the road.


Bill


"Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
news:P%usc.391$eQ5.92@twister.socal.rr.com...
> Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth
> the work?
> Rich
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push
> rods.
> > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job
> done
> > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was
> > going to do this swap but changed his mind.
> >
> > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short
block
> > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train.
> >
> > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from
> > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug.
> >
> > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I
> had
> > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe.
> >
> > Just a bunch of little things which did add up.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com...
> > > richard-check out this site:
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com
> > >
> > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and
> > pushrods.
> > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this
swap
> > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the
> > results.
> > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap.
> > >
> > > try here too:
> > > http://www.cjoffroad.com
> > >
> > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there.
> good
> > > luck!
> > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know
> > about
> > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold
and
> > > valve
> > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is
> it
> > > that
> > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to
> mention
> > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that
> the
> > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to
make
> > sure
> > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful.
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Rich
> > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits
> front
> > > and
> > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous
> offroad
> > > > related crap.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>