Frank The Tank

"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:765ab$44c98969$48311eaf$16043@FUSE.NET...
: How old is the coolant?
:
: Have you added any in the last 6 months?
:
: What kind did you add?
:
: What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like?
:
: Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside?
:
: If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you
could
: have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner
might
: be of great use along with fresh coolant.
:
: If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other
than
: Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC
coolant
: results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system.
:
: If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool
and
: your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and
your
: engine seals damaged.
:
: Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality
control,
: check your fan clutch again.
:
: Depending on your answers:
:
: You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine,
: replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant
: concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This
: will give you protection of -65 to +270.
:
: Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the
new
: DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use
: Prestone or Peak (or most store brands)
:
:
: "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message
: news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com...
: >
: >
: > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
: > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
when
: > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
: > incline, even at very slow speed.
: >
: > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
: > light.
: >
: > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
some
: > at idle.
: >
: > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
: > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
: > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
: > medium inclines even at slow speeds.
: >
: > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
I
: > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
six
: > years and I know how it performs.
: >
: > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
: >
: > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
just
: > to install a new radiator?
: >
: > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
: > (Water pump does not leak).
: >
: >
: > Thanks for any tips !!!
: >
: > --James--
: >
: >
:
Sweet writed up! Kudos!

Frank The Tank

"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:765ab$44c98969$48311eaf$16043@FUSE.NET...
: How old is the coolant?
:
: Have you added any in the last 6 months?
:
: What kind did you add?
:
: What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like?
:
: Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside?
:
: If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you
could
: have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner
might
: be of great use along with fresh coolant.
:
: If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other
than
: Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC
coolant
: results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system.
:
: If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool
and
: your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and
your
: engine seals damaged.
:
: Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality
control,
: check your fan clutch again.
:
: Depending on your answers:
:
: You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine,
: replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant
: concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This
: will give you protection of -65 to +270.
:
: Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the
new
: DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use
: Prestone or Peak (or most store brands)
:
:
: "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message
: news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com...
: >
: >
: > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
: > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
when
: > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
: > incline, even at very slow speed.
: >
: > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
: > light.
: >
: > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
some
: > at idle.
: >
: > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
: > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
: > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
: > medium inclines even at slow speeds.
: >
: > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
I
: > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
six
: > years and I know how it performs.
: >
: > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
: >
: > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
just
: > to install a new radiator?
: >
: > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
: > (Water pump does not leak).
: >
: >
: > Thanks for any tips !!!
: >
: > --James--
: >
: >
:
Sweet writed up! Kudos!

Frank The Tank

"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:765ab$44c98969$48311eaf$16043@FUSE.NET...
: How old is the coolant?
:
: Have you added any in the last 6 months?
:
: What kind did you add?
:
: What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like?
:
: Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside?
:
: If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you
could
: have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner
might
: be of great use along with fresh coolant.
:
: If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other
than
: Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC
coolant
: results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system.
:
: If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool
and
: your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and
your
: engine seals damaged.
:
: Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality
control,
: check your fan clutch again.
:
: Depending on your answers:
:
: You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine,
: replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant
: concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This
: will give you protection of -65 to +270.
:
: Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the
new
: DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use
: Prestone or Peak (or most store brands)
:
:
: "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message
: news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com...
: >
: >
: > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
: > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
when
: > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
: > incline, even at very slow speed.
: >
: > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
: > light.
: >
: > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
some
: > at idle.
: >
: > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
: > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
: > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
: > medium inclines even at slow speeds.
: >
: > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
I
: > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
six
: > years and I know how it performs.
: >
: > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
: >
: > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
just
: > to install a new radiator?
: >
: > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
: > (Water pump does not leak).
: >
: >
: > Thanks for any tips !!!
: >
: > --James--
: >
: >
:
Sweet writed up! Kudos!

philthy

and thne most simple reason low coolant level did you check the level of
the coolant

XS11E wrote:

> "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in
> news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com:
>
> > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>
> Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are
> very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably
> due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd
> wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less
> likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles.
>
> > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
> > best just to install a new radiator?
>
> I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it
> because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner
> or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with
> good results.
>
> BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often
> overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment,
> dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the
> movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat
> first and then take a look at the radiator.

philthy

and thne most simple reason low coolant level did you check the level of
the coolant

XS11E wrote:

> "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in
> news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com:
>
> > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>
> Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are
> very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably
> due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd
> wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less
> likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles.
>
> > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
> > best just to install a new radiator?
>
> I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it
> because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner
> or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with
> good results.
>
> BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often
> overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment,
> dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the
> movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat
> first and then take a look at the radiator.

philthy

and thne most simple reason low coolant level did you check the level of
the coolant

XS11E wrote:

> "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in
> news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com:
>
> > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>
> Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are
> very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably
> due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd
> wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less
> likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles.
>
> > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
> > best just to install a new radiator?
>
> I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it
> because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner
> or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with
> good results.
>
> BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often
> overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment,
> dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the
> movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat
> first and then take a look at the radiator.

philthy

and thne most simple reason low coolant level did you check the level of
the coolant

XS11E wrote:

> "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in
> news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com:
>
> > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>
> Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are
> very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably
> due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd
> wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less
> likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles.
>
> > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
> > best just to install a new radiator?
>
> I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it
> because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner
> or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with
> good results.
>
> BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often
> overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment,
> dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the
> movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat
> first and then take a look at the radiator.