2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
 

This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210 degrees.
During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when traveling
over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium incline, even at
very slow speed.

It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
light.

Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some at
idle.

I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I may
have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective water pump
at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on medium
inclines even at slow speeds.

BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I
can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
years and I know how it performs.

What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator

If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just
to install a new radiator?

As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
(Water pump does not leak).


Thanks for any tips !!!

--James--

Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
 

"James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in
news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com:

> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator

Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are
very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably
due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd
wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less
likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles.

> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
> best just to install a new radiator?

I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it
because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner
or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with
good results.

BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often
overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment,
dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the
movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat
first and then take a look at the radiator.

Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
 

"James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in
news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com:

> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator

Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are
very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably
due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd
wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less
likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles.

> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
> best just to install a new radiator?

I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it
because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner
or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with
good results.

BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often
overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment,
dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the
movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat
first and then take a look at the radiator.

Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
 

"James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in
news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com:

> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator

Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are
very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably
due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd
wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less
likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles.

> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
> best just to install a new radiator?

I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it
because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner
or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with
good results.

BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often
overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment,
dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the
movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat
first and then take a look at the radiator.

Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
 

"James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in
news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com:

> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator

Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are
very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably
due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd
wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less
likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles.

> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
> best just to install a new radiator?

I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it
because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner
or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with
good results.

BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often
overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment,
dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the
movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat
first and then take a look at the radiator.

Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
 

How old is the coolant?

Have you added any in the last 6 months?

What kind did you add?

What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like?

Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside?

If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you could
have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner might
be of great use along with fresh coolant.

If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other than
Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC coolant
results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system.

If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool and
your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and your
engine seals damaged.

Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality control,
check your fan clutch again.

Depending on your answers:

You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine,
replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant
concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This
will give you protection of -65 to +270.

Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the new
DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use
Prestone or Peak (or most store brands)


"James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message
news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when
> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> incline, even at very slow speed.
>
> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
> light.
>
> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
> at idle.
>
> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>
> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I
> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
> years and I know how it performs.
>
> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>
> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just
> to install a new radiator?
>
> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
> (Water pump does not leak).
>
>
> Thanks for any tips !!!
>
> --James--
>
>

Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
 

How old is the coolant?

Have you added any in the last 6 months?

What kind did you add?

What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like?

Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside?

If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you could
have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner might
be of great use along with fresh coolant.

If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other than
Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC coolant
results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system.

If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool and
your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and your
engine seals damaged.

Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality control,
check your fan clutch again.

Depending on your answers:

You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine,
replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant
concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This
will give you protection of -65 to +270.

Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the new
DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use
Prestone or Peak (or most store brands)


"James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message
news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when
> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> incline, even at very slow speed.
>
> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
> light.
>
> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
> at idle.
>
> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>
> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I
> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
> years and I know how it performs.
>
> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>
> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just
> to install a new radiator?
>
> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
> (Water pump does not leak).
>
>
> Thanks for any tips !!!
>
> --James--
>
>

Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
 

How old is the coolant?

Have you added any in the last 6 months?

What kind did you add?

What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like?

Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside?

If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you could
have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner might
be of great use along with fresh coolant.

If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other than
Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC coolant
results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system.

If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool and
your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and your
engine seals damaged.

Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality control,
check your fan clutch again.

Depending on your answers:

You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine,
replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant
concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This
will give you protection of -65 to +270.

Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the new
DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use
Prestone or Peak (or most store brands)


"James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message
news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when
> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> incline, even at very slow speed.
>
> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
> light.
>
> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
> at idle.
>
> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>
> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I
> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
> years and I know how it performs.
>
> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>
> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just
> to install a new radiator?
>
> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
> (Water pump does not leak).
>
>
> Thanks for any tips !!!
>
> --James--
>
>

Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
 

How old is the coolant?

Have you added any in the last 6 months?

What kind did you add?

What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like?

Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside?

If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you could
have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner might
be of great use along with fresh coolant.

If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other than
Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC coolant
results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system.

If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool and
your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and your
engine seals damaged.

Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality control,
check your fan clutch again.

Depending on your answers:

You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine,
replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant
concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This
will give you protection of -65 to +270.

Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the new
DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use
Prestone or Peak (or most store brands)


"James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message
news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when
> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> incline, even at very slow speed.
>
> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
> light.
>
> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
> at idle.
>
> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>
> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I
> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
> years and I know how it performs.
>
> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>
> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just
> to install a new radiator?
>
> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
> (Water pump does not leak).
>
>
> Thanks for any tips !!!
>
> --James--
>
>

Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
 

"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:765ab$44c98969$48311eaf$16043@FUSE.NET...
: How old is the coolant?
:
: Have you added any in the last 6 months?
:
: What kind did you add?
:
: What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like?
:
: Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside?
:
: If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you
could
: have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner
might
: be of great use along with fresh coolant.
:
: If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other
than
: Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC
coolant
: results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system.
:
: If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool
and
: your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and
your
: engine seals damaged.
:
: Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality
control,
: check your fan clutch again.
:
: Depending on your answers:
:
: You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine,
: replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant
: concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This
: will give you protection of -65 to +270.
:
: Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the
new
: DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use
: Prestone or Peak (or most store brands)
:
:
: "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message
: news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com...
: >
: >
: > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
: > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
when
: > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
: > incline, even at very slow speed.
: >
: > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
: > light.
: >
: > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
some
: > at idle.
: >
: > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
: > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
: > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
: > medium inclines even at slow speeds.
: >
: > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
I
: > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
six
: > years and I know how it performs.
: >
: > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
: >
: > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
just
: > to install a new radiator?
: >
: > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
: > (Water pump does not leak).
: >
: >
: > Thanks for any tips !!!
: >
: > --James--
: >
: >
:
Sweet writed up! Kudos!