Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message news:765ab$44c98969$48311eaf$16043@FUSE.NET... : How old is the coolant? : : Have you added any in the last 6 months? : : What kind did you add? : : What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like? : : Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside? : : If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you could : have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner might : be of great use along with fresh coolant. : : If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other than : Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC coolant : results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system. : : If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool and : your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and your : engine seals damaged. : : Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality control, : check your fan clutch again. : : Depending on your answers: : : You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine, : replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant : concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This : will give you protection of -65 to +270. : : Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the new : DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use : Prestone or Peak (or most store brands) : : : "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message : news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com... : > : > : > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210 : > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when : > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium : > incline, even at very slow speed. : > : > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic : > light. : > : > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some : > at idle. : > : > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I : > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective : > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on : > medium inclines even at slow speeds. : > : > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I : > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six : > years and I know how it performs. : > : > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator : > : > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just : > to install a new radiator? : > : > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more? : > (Water pump does not leak). : > : > : > Thanks for any tips !!! : > : > --James-- : > : > : Sweet writed up! Kudos! |
Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message news:765ab$44c98969$48311eaf$16043@FUSE.NET... : How old is the coolant? : : Have you added any in the last 6 months? : : What kind did you add? : : What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like? : : Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside? : : If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you could : have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner might : be of great use along with fresh coolant. : : If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other than : Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC coolant : results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system. : : If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool and : your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and your : engine seals damaged. : : Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality control, : check your fan clutch again. : : Depending on your answers: : : You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine, : replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant : concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This : will give you protection of -65 to +270. : : Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the new : DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use : Prestone or Peak (or most store brands) : : : "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message : news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com... : > : > : > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210 : > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when : > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium : > incline, even at very slow speed. : > : > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic : > light. : > : > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some : > at idle. : > : > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I : > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective : > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on : > medium inclines even at slow speeds. : > : > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I : > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six : > years and I know how it performs. : > : > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator : > : > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just : > to install a new radiator? : > : > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more? : > (Water pump does not leak). : > : > : > Thanks for any tips !!! : > : > --James-- : > : > : Sweet writed up! Kudos! |
Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message news:765ab$44c98969$48311eaf$16043@FUSE.NET... : How old is the coolant? : : Have you added any in the last 6 months? : : What kind did you add? : : What does the coolant in the overflow tank look like? : : Does the overflow tank look like it has a layer of 'slime' inside? : : If you have the factory fill coolant is now about 7 years old and you could : have corrosion in your cooling system. a can of cooling system cleaner might : be of great use along with fresh coolant. : : If you added coolant in the last six months and it was ANY brand other than : Zerex then you probably added DexCool to the system and DexCool + DC coolant : results in a reddish brown sludge which would coat and clog the system. : : If you refilled the system with Prestone or Peak then you added DexCool and : your water pump,thermostat, and radiator might be complete corroded and your : engine seals damaged. : : Anything mass produced sometimes is defective and gets part quality control, : check your fan clutch again. : : Depending on your answers: : : You may want to add a flush-n-fill tee and chemically flush the engine, : replace the thermostat and add 2 gallons of Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant : concentrate (in the gold jug) and top it off with distilled water. This : will give you protection of -65 to +270. : : Please note: Valvoline Zerex G-05 is the only coolant approved for the new : DC vehicles. Older vehicles can use "American Green" but NONE can use : Prestone or Peak (or most store brands) : : : "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in message : news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com... : > : > : > This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210 : > degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees when : > traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium : > incline, even at very slow speed. : > : > It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic : > light. : > : > Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some : > at idle. : > : > I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I : > may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective : > water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on : > medium inclines even at slow speeds. : > : > BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances. I : > can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six : > years and I know how it performs. : > : > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator : > : > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best just : > to install a new radiator? : > : > As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more? : > (Water pump does not leak). : > : > : > Thanks for any tips !!! : > : > --James-- : > : > : Sweet writed up! Kudos! |
Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
and thne most simple reason low coolant level did you check the level of
the coolant XS11E wrote: > "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in > news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com: > > > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator > > Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are > very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably > due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd > wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less > likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles. > > > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it > > best just to install a new radiator? > > I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it > because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner > or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with > good results. > > BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often > overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment, > dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the > movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat > first and then take a look at the radiator. |
Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
and thne most simple reason low coolant level did you check the level of
the coolant XS11E wrote: > "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in > news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com: > > > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator > > Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are > very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably > due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd > wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less > likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles. > > > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it > > best just to install a new radiator? > > I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it > because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner > or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with > good results. > > BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often > overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment, > dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the > movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat > first and then take a look at the radiator. |
Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
and thne most simple reason low coolant level did you check the level of
the coolant XS11E wrote: > "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in > news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com: > > > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator > > Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are > very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably > due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd > wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less > likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles. > > > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it > > best just to install a new radiator? > > I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it > because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner > or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with > good results. > > BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often > overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment, > dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the > movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat > first and then take a look at the radiator. |
Re: 2000 JGC Overheating (Some)
and thne most simple reason low coolant level did you check the level of
the coolant XS11E wrote: > "James Nipper" <no@one.com> wrote in > news:12cifbf78lo794c@corp.supernews.com: > > > What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator > > Don't think about most likely, think about cheapest! Thermostats are > very inexpensive so give that a shot first. The water pump is probably > due because of the mileage on the vehicle but if it isn't leaking I'd > wait until it does. It could cause your overheating but it's less > likely than the radiator. It could be pretty crudded up at 120K miles. > > > If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it > > best just to install a new radiator? > > I'd take a look at it. If it has the plastic tanks I'd replace it > because the gasket that is between the tank and core will go bad sooner > or later. If the tanks are metal you should be able to rod it out with > good results. > > BTW there's dozens of other causes of overheating that are often > overlooked. Clutch or transmission slippage, very bad wheel alignment, > dragging brakes, etc. all can contribute. Anything that opposes the > movement of the car can cause overheating but I'd change the thermostat > first and then take a look at the radiator. |
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