Again "pucks" made out of car tire rubber are somewhat oil resistant and
stand up to wear pretty well, where Hockey Pucks are not. completely
different compounds..

Snow...

"Jeff White" <jwhite08@nospam.rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:NaFtd.39074$1u.14069@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
> My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
> the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
> twenty years, they still look they same.
> I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
> welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I
was
> parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
> or bends to the mounts.
>
>
> "SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:cp65mb01c5e@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> >>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> >> what grade bolts would be needed,
> >
> > I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with
grade
> > 5 bolts.
> >
> >> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
> >
> > Approx 2"
> >
> >> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
> >
> > Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> > exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took
a
> > bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> > to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer,
then
> > sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> > right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before
it
> > was reinstalled.
> >
> > There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> > radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> > are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
> >
> > Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to
complete.
> >
> >> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> >> own,>
> >
> > The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> > expensive to just buy one.
> >
> >> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> >> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
> >
> > I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine
vibration
> > a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> > the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> >
> >> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
1inch
> >> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
> >> make one of these on my mill, >
> >
> > I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach
through
> > the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

Again "pucks" made out of car tire rubber are somewhat oil resistant and
stand up to wear pretty well, where Hockey Pucks are not. completely
different compounds..

Snow...

"Jeff White" <jwhite08@nospam.rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:NaFtd.39074$1u.14069@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
> My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
> the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
> twenty years, they still look they same.
> I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
> welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I
was
> parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
> or bends to the mounts.
>
>
> "SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:cp65mb01c5e@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> >>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> >> what grade bolts would be needed,
> >
> > I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with
grade
> > 5 bolts.
> >
> >> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
> >
> > Approx 2"
> >
> >> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
> >
> > Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> > exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took
a
> > bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> > to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer,
then
> > sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> > right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before
it
> > was reinstalled.
> >
> > There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> > radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> > are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
> >
> > Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to
complete.
> >
> >> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> >> own,>
> >
> > The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> > expensive to just buy one.
> >
> >> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> >> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
> >
> > I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine
vibration
> > a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> > the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> >
> >> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
1inch
> >> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
> >> make one of these on my mill, >
> >
> > I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach
through
> > the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

> My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
> the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
> twenty years, they still look they same.

Sure, not all rubber's made the same. The stuff in tires is undoubtedly
designed toward being exposed to the harsh elements of an automobile.
Certainly more than a hockey puck.

> I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
> welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I
was
> parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
> or bends to the mounts.

There's always plenty of "my hack job never caused me any trouble" stories.
Unfornutately there's also plenty of "my insurance was voided because of
some stupid hack" stories. It's also not a matter of whether the hack
survived but whether the hack transferred damage to other places instead of
absorbing it. Better to have a cheap rubber bushing fail than to have a
welded up hack force damage onto other parts of the vehicle. It's probably
not an issue for the job you've done but it's advice worth considering when
thinking about cobbling up something on a vehicle that might put you or
others at risk of not only monetary but loss of life as well.

-Bill Kearney

 

> My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
> the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
> twenty years, they still look they same.

Sure, not all rubber's made the same. The stuff in tires is undoubtedly
designed toward being exposed to the harsh elements of an automobile.
Certainly more than a hockey puck.

> I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
> welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I
was
> parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
> or bends to the mounts.

There's always plenty of "my hack job never caused me any trouble" stories.
Unfornutately there's also plenty of "my insurance was voided because of
some stupid hack" stories. It's also not a matter of whether the hack
survived but whether the hack transferred damage to other places instead of
absorbing it. Better to have a cheap rubber bushing fail than to have a
welded up hack force damage onto other parts of the vehicle. It's probably
not an issue for the job you've done but it's advice worth considering when
thinking about cobbling up something on a vehicle that might put you or
others at risk of not only monetary but loss of life as well.

-Bill Kearney

 

> My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
> the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
> twenty years, they still look they same.

Sure, not all rubber's made the same. The stuff in tires is undoubtedly
designed toward being exposed to the harsh elements of an automobile.
Certainly more than a hockey puck.

> I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
> welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I
was
> parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
> or bends to the mounts.

There's always plenty of "my hack job never caused me any trouble" stories.
Unfornutately there's also plenty of "my insurance was voided because of
some stupid hack" stories. It's also not a matter of whether the hack
survived but whether the hack transferred damage to other places instead of
absorbing it. Better to have a cheap rubber bushing fail than to have a
welded up hack force damage onto other parts of the vehicle. It's probably
not an issue for the job you've done but it's advice worth considering when
thinking about cobbling up something on a vehicle that might put you or
others at risk of not only monetary but loss of life as well.

-Bill Kearney

 

I did exactly what you are talking about except I used UHMWPE. I made the
pucks 1.25 thick and the diameter was 2.25 for all 11 pucks... it's been on
my Jeep for over a year and it's working flawlessly. The 1" alum block
you're thinking of is made my JKS (and others possibly). The block itself is
easy as pie to make, but what you pay for imo is the fasteners... JKS sends
you a pin that goes through the block and is threaded on the inside...
n.


<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp
>

 

I did exactly what you are talking about except I used UHMWPE. I made the
pucks 1.25 thick and the diameter was 2.25 for all 11 pucks... it's been on
my Jeep for over a year and it's working flawlessly. The 1" alum block
you're thinking of is made my JKS (and others possibly). The block itself is
easy as pie to make, but what you pay for imo is the fasteners... JKS sends
you a pin that goes through the block and is threaded on the inside...
n.


<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp
>

 

I did exactly what you are talking about except I used UHMWPE. I made the
pucks 1.25 thick and the diameter was 2.25 for all 11 pucks... it's been on
my Jeep for over a year and it's working flawlessly. The 1" alum block
you're thinking of is made my JKS (and others possibly). The block itself is
easy as pie to make, but what you pay for imo is the fasteners... JKS sends
you a pin that goes through the block and is threaded on the inside...
n.


<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp
>