1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade 5
bolts.
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
Approx 2"
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw to
get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
was reinstalled.
There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones are
up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my own,>
The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
expensive to just buy one.
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration a
tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line the
powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could make
> one of these on my mill, >
I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade 5
bolts.
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
Approx 2"
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw to
get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
was reinstalled.
There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones are
up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my own,>
The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
expensive to just buy one.
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration a
tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line the
powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could make
> one of these on my mill, >
I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade 5
bolts.
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
Approx 2"
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw to
get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
was reinstalled.
There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones are
up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my own,>
The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
expensive to just buy one.
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration a
tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line the
powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could make
> one of these on my mill, >
I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade 5
bolts.
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
Approx 2"
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw to
get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
was reinstalled.
There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones are
up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my own,>
The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
expensive to just buy one.
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration a
tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line the
powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could make
> one of these on my mill, >
I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade 5
bolts.
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
Approx 2"
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw to
get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
was reinstalled.
There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones are
up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my own,>
The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
expensive to just buy one.
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration a
tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line the
powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could make
> one of these on my mill, >
I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade 5
bolts.
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
Approx 2"
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw to
get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
was reinstalled.
There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones are
up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my own,>
The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
expensive to just buy one.
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration a
tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line the
powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could make
> one of these on my mill, >
I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
Guest
Posts: n/a
OT: NHL Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
hearhear! stupid all around.... can't believe the lockout...
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:4Zidna4rVIuVvCvcRVn-hg@rogers.com...
> In the past I would have agreed with you but with the ongoing NHL lockout
> I
> think it is our duty to support puck manufacturers.
>
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41B5E551.9A7F8B98@sympatico.ca...
> : That is so wrong in so many ways....
> :
> : Mike
> : 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> : 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> :
> : jeff wrote:
> : >
> : > The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood
> sporting
> : > goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.
> : >
> : > <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> : > news:1102436380.427587.284780@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> : > > i could also do them in steel
> : > >
> : > > johnp
> : > >
>
>
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:4Zidna4rVIuVvCvcRVn-hg@rogers.com...
> In the past I would have agreed with you but with the ongoing NHL lockout
> I
> think it is our duty to support puck manufacturers.
>
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41B5E551.9A7F8B98@sympatico.ca...
> : That is so wrong in so many ways....
> :
> : Mike
> : 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> : 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> :
> : jeff wrote:
> : >
> : > The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood
> sporting
> : > goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.
> : >
> : > <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> : > news:1102436380.427587.284780@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> : > > i could also do them in steel
> : > >
> : > > johnp
> : > >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
OT: NHL Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
hearhear! stupid all around.... can't believe the lockout...
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:4Zidna4rVIuVvCvcRVn-hg@rogers.com...
> In the past I would have agreed with you but with the ongoing NHL lockout
> I
> think it is our duty to support puck manufacturers.
>
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41B5E551.9A7F8B98@sympatico.ca...
> : That is so wrong in so many ways....
> :
> : Mike
> : 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> : 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> :
> : jeff wrote:
> : >
> : > The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood
> sporting
> : > goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.
> : >
> : > <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> : > news:1102436380.427587.284780@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> : > > i could also do them in steel
> : > >
> : > > johnp
> : > >
>
>
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:4Zidna4rVIuVvCvcRVn-hg@rogers.com...
> In the past I would have agreed with you but with the ongoing NHL lockout
> I
> think it is our duty to support puck manufacturers.
>
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41B5E551.9A7F8B98@sympatico.ca...
> : That is so wrong in so many ways....
> :
> : Mike
> : 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> : 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> :
> : jeff wrote:
> : >
> : > The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood
> sporting
> : > goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.
> : >
> : > <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> : > news:1102436380.427587.284780@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> : > > i could also do them in steel
> : > >
> : > > johnp
> : > >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
OT: NHL Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
hearhear! stupid all around.... can't believe the lockout...
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:4Zidna4rVIuVvCvcRVn-hg@rogers.com...
> In the past I would have agreed with you but with the ongoing NHL lockout
> I
> think it is our duty to support puck manufacturers.
>
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41B5E551.9A7F8B98@sympatico.ca...
> : That is so wrong in so many ways....
> :
> : Mike
> : 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> : 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> :
> : jeff wrote:
> : >
> : > The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood
> sporting
> : > goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.
> : >
> : > <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> : > news:1102436380.427587.284780@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> : > > i could also do them in steel
> : > >
> : > > johnp
> : > >
>
>
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:4Zidna4rVIuVvCvcRVn-hg@rogers.com...
> In the past I would have agreed with you but with the ongoing NHL lockout
> I
> think it is our duty to support puck manufacturers.
>
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41B5E551.9A7F8B98@sympatico.ca...
> : That is so wrong in so many ways....
> :
> : Mike
> : 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> : 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> :
> : jeff wrote:
> : >
> : > The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood
> sporting
> : > goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.
> : >
> : > <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> : > news:1102436380.427587.284780@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> : > > i could also do them in steel
> : > >
> : > > johnp
> : > >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
twenty years, they still look they same.
I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I was
parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
or bends to the mounts.
"SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cp65mb01c5e@enews3.newsguy.com...
> <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
>> what grade bolts would be needed,
>
> I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade
> 5 bolts.
>
>> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
>
> Approx 2"
>
>> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
>
> Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
> bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
> sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
> was reinstalled.
>
> There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
>
> Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
>
>> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
>> own,>
>
> The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> expensive to just buy one.
>
>> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
>> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
>
> I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration
> a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
>
>> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
>> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
>> make one of these on my mill, >
>
> I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
> the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
>
>
>
the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
twenty years, they still look they same.
I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I was
parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
or bends to the mounts.
"SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cp65mb01c5e@enews3.newsguy.com...
> <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
>> what grade bolts would be needed,
>
> I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade
> 5 bolts.
>
>> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
>
> Approx 2"
>
>> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
>
> Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
> bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
> sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
> was reinstalled.
>
> There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
>
> Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
>
>> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
>> own,>
>
> The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> expensive to just buy one.
>
>> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
>> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
>
> I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration
> a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
>
>> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
>> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
>> make one of these on my mill, >
>
> I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
> the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
twenty years, they still look they same.
I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I was
parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
or bends to the mounts.
"SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cp65mb01c5e@enews3.newsguy.com...
> <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
>> what grade bolts would be needed,
>
> I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade
> 5 bolts.
>
>> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
>
> Approx 2"
>
>> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
>
> Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
> bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
> sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
> was reinstalled.
>
> There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
>
> Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
>
>> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
>> own,>
>
> The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> expensive to just buy one.
>
>> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
>> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
>
> I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration
> a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
>
>> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
>> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
>> make one of these on my mill, >
>
> I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
> the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
>
>
>
the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
twenty years, they still look they same.
I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I was
parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
or bends to the mounts.
"SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cp65mb01c5e@enews3.newsguy.com...
> <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
>> what grade bolts would be needed,
>
> I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade
> 5 bolts.
>
>> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
>
> Approx 2"
>
>> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
>
> Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
> bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
> sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
> was reinstalled.
>
> There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
>
> Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
>
>> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
>> own,>
>
> The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> expensive to just buy one.
>
>> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
>> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
>
> I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration
> a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
>
>> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
>> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
>> make one of these on my mill, >
>
> I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
> the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
twenty years, they still look they same.
I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I was
parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
or bends to the mounts.
"SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cp65mb01c5e@enews3.newsguy.com...
> <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
>> what grade bolts would be needed,
>
> I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade
> 5 bolts.
>
>> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
>
> Approx 2"
>
>> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
>
> Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
> bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
> sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
> was reinstalled.
>
> There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
>
> Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
>
>> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
>> own,>
>
> The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> expensive to just buy one.
>
>> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
>> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
>
> I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration
> a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
>
>> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
>> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
>> make one of these on my mill, >
>
> I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
> the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
>
>
>
the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
twenty years, they still look they same.
I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I was
parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
or bends to the mounts.
"SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cp65mb01c5e@enews3.newsguy.com...
> <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
>> what grade bolts would be needed,
>
> I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade
> 5 bolts.
>
>> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
>
> Approx 2"
>
>> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
>
> Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
> bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
> sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
> was reinstalled.
>
> There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
>
> Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
>
>> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
>> own,>
>
> The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> expensive to just buy one.
>
>> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
>> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
>
> I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration
> a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
>
>> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
>> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
>> make one of these on my mill, >
>
> I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
> the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
Again "pucks" made out of car tire rubber are somewhat oil resistant and
stand up to wear pretty well, where Hockey Pucks are not. completely
different compounds..
Snow...
"Jeff White" <jwhite08@nospam.rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:NaFtd.39074$1u.14069@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
> My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
> the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
> twenty years, they still look they same.
> I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
> welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I
was
> parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
> or bends to the mounts.
>
>
> "SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:cp65mb01c5e@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> >>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> >> what grade bolts would be needed,
> >
> > I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with
grade
> > 5 bolts.
> >
> >> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
> >
> > Approx 2"
> >
> >> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
> >
> > Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> > exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took
a
> > bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> > to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer,
then
> > sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> > right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before
it
> > was reinstalled.
> >
> > There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> > radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> > are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
> >
> > Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to
complete.
> >
> >> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> >> own,>
> >
> > The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> > expensive to just buy one.
> >
> >> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> >> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
> >
> > I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine
vibration
> > a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> > the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> >
> >> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
1inch
> >> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
> >> make one of these on my mill, >
> >
> > I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach
through
> > the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
stand up to wear pretty well, where Hockey Pucks are not. completely
different compounds..
Snow...
"Jeff White" <jwhite08@nospam.rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:NaFtd.39074$1u.14069@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
> My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
> the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
> twenty years, they still look they same.
> I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
> welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I
was
> parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
> or bends to the mounts.
>
>
> "SoK66" <SoK66@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:cp65mb01c5e@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > <scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:1102423969.670359.317160@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> >>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> >> what grade bolts would be needed,
> >
> > I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with
grade
> > 5 bolts.
> >
> >> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
> >
> > Approx 2"
> >
> >> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
> >
> > Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> > exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took
a
> > bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> > to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer,
then
> > sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> > right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before
it
> > was reinstalled.
> >
> > There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> > radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> > are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
> >
> > Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to
complete.
> >
> >> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> >> own,>
> >
> > The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> > expensive to just buy one.
> >
> >> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> >> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
> >
> > I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine
vibration
> > a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> > the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> >
> >> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
1inch
> >> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
> >> make one of these on my mill, >
> >
> > I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach
through
> > the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
> >
> >
> >
>
>