1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
Guest
Posts: n/a
1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
what grade bolts would be needed,
,
what diam would the Pucks have to be?
and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
own,
,
i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
there notes section says that it increses vibration,
cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
i could make one of these on my mill, ,
,
will i have vibration trouble doing this?
thanks for the help,
johnp
what grade bolts would be needed,
,
what diam would the Pucks have to be?
and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
own,
,
i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
there notes section says that it increses vibration,
cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
i could make one of these on my mill, ,
,
will i have vibration trouble doing this?
thanks for the help,
johnp
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
I do not think aluminum 'pucks' are a good idea at all.
The problem is any place aluminum touches steel will rot out really
fast. Really fast. Electrolysis sets up. It happens really fast up
here in the salt belt. I have seen several aluminum rims that 'became
one' with the wheel hub, literally. The last one was on the tenant's 92
Jeep and when it finally got pounded off, almost 1" of rim was left on
the hub.
This goes for the frame mounts, bolts, body tub or any washers that come
in contact with it.
On some static applications you can use some special antiseize compounds
to slow down the damage, but mounts are basically moving parts.
My $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
scopenutt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp
The problem is any place aluminum touches steel will rot out really
fast. Really fast. Electrolysis sets up. It happens really fast up
here in the salt belt. I have seen several aluminum rims that 'became
one' with the wheel hub, literally. The last one was on the tenant's 92
Jeep and when it finally got pounded off, almost 1" of rim was left on
the hub.
This goes for the frame mounts, bolts, body tub or any washers that come
in contact with it.
On some static applications you can use some special antiseize compounds
to slow down the damage, but mounts are basically moving parts.
My $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
scopenutt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
I do not think aluminum 'pucks' are a good idea at all.
The problem is any place aluminum touches steel will rot out really
fast. Really fast. Electrolysis sets up. It happens really fast up
here in the salt belt. I have seen several aluminum rims that 'became
one' with the wheel hub, literally. The last one was on the tenant's 92
Jeep and when it finally got pounded off, almost 1" of rim was left on
the hub.
This goes for the frame mounts, bolts, body tub or any washers that come
in contact with it.
On some static applications you can use some special antiseize compounds
to slow down the damage, but mounts are basically moving parts.
My $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
scopenutt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp
The problem is any place aluminum touches steel will rot out really
fast. Really fast. Electrolysis sets up. It happens really fast up
here in the salt belt. I have seen several aluminum rims that 'became
one' with the wheel hub, literally. The last one was on the tenant's 92
Jeep and when it finally got pounded off, almost 1" of rim was left on
the hub.
This goes for the frame mounts, bolts, body tub or any washers that come
in contact with it.
On some static applications you can use some special antiseize compounds
to slow down the damage, but mounts are basically moving parts.
My $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
scopenutt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1inch body lift "self-built pucks"
I do not think aluminum 'pucks' are a good idea at all.
The problem is any place aluminum touches steel will rot out really
fast. Really fast. Electrolysis sets up. It happens really fast up
here in the salt belt. I have seen several aluminum rims that 'became
one' with the wheel hub, literally. The last one was on the tenant's 92
Jeep and when it finally got pounded off, almost 1" of rim was left on
the hub.
This goes for the frame mounts, bolts, body tub or any washers that come
in contact with it.
On some static applications you can use some special antiseize compounds
to slow down the damage, but mounts are basically moving parts.
My $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
scopenutt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp
The problem is any place aluminum touches steel will rot out really
fast. Really fast. Electrolysis sets up. It happens really fast up
here in the salt belt. I have seen several aluminum rims that 'became
one' with the wheel hub, literally. The last one was on the tenant's 92
Jeep and when it finally got pounded off, almost 1" of rim was left on
the hub.
This goes for the frame mounts, bolts, body tub or any washers that come
in contact with it.
On some static applications you can use some special antiseize compounds
to slow down the damage, but mounts are basically moving parts.
My $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
scopenutt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp