i dont have any fourwheel drive anymore,
vacume lines?
my idiot light used to be on and off iradically all the time,
now isnt even on,
,
any sugestions on how to chase the problem?
the "auto-parts-jeep book" is pritty skimpy on info,
,
all my vacume lines are hooked up and seem to have vacume in them
,
a week ago when shifting out of 4 weel drive,
i was driving and when i got up to 40mph the thing was riding like i
was on a road with small bolders, stopped shifted in and out of 4
wheel again
and it went away,
now no shifting back in
,
any help advice apriciated,
thinking of a manual overide instead of the vacume, but dam another
200.00
,
johnp--not on my tires please

 

Hi John,

The 'small boulder' effect was probably due to the splined collar
grinding away on the edge of the inner axle because your vacuum
diaphragm failed and couldn't fully pull the collar away or your
aluminum fork is worn and has too much lateral play on the shift rod.

If your splines are still intact and the fork isn't too sloppy, make
your own manual shift. Mine was built for $0 with scrounged parts:

http://xjeep.dyndns.org/posilok

1. Arch a small steel plate to cover the aluminum shift housing. Drill
it so it uses two of the existing aluminum cover's bolts.

2. Weld two nuts on the plate such that the shift cable and casing can
fit straight through the two of them. Leave a gap between the nuts for a
small hose clamp to secure the cable casing.

3. Drill a hole across a bolt so that the uncased end of the cable can
pass though. After removing the vacuum diaphragm thing, weld this bolt
(perpendicular) to the shaft that pushes the shift fork. Put two nuts on
the bolt, leaving a gap between them so the drilled cable hole is exposed.

Assembly:

1. Scrape the mating surfaces of the fork cover and axle housing clean
and apply gasket goo. Line up the fork with the shift collar and bolt
the cover, with your steel plate, to the axle housing.

2. Drill a hole in your firewall above the gas pedal. Fit a grommet and
fish the cable through.

3. Fix the cable handle end to the underside of your dash with a bracket
and shove the handle full home.

4. Route the cable end to your shift assembly. Ensure you have enough
slack to allow for full drop of the axle then cut to fit.

5. Strip a few inches off the end of the cable casing. Pass the cable
through the nuts on your plate and insert the bare end into the bolt on
the shift rod. Make sure your cable handle is pushed home and that the
fork rod is pushed all the way to the right. Tighten the two nuts on the
cable end and tighten the hose clamp on the casing.

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org


JohnE.P.--JEP wrote:
> i dont have any fourwheel drive anymore,
> vacume lines?
> my idiot light used to be on and off iradically all the time,
> now isnt even on,
> ,
> any sugestions on how to chase the problem?
> the "auto-parts-jeep book" is pritty skimpy on info,
> ,
> all my vacume lines are hooked up and seem to have vacume in them
> ,
> a week ago when shifting out of 4 weel drive,
> i was driving and when i got up to 40mph the thing was riding like i
> was on a road with small bolders, stopped shifted in and out of 4
> wheel again
> and it went away,
> now no shifting back in
> ,
> any help advice apriciated,
> thinking of a manual overide instead of the vacume, but dam another
> 200.00
> ,
> johnp--not on my tires please

 

Hi John,

The 'small boulder' effect was probably due to the splined collar
grinding away on the edge of the inner axle because your vacuum
diaphragm failed and couldn't fully pull the collar away or your
aluminum fork is worn and has too much lateral play on the shift rod.

If your splines are still intact and the fork isn't too sloppy, make
your own manual shift. Mine was built for $0 with scrounged parts:

http://xjeep.dyndns.org/posilok

1. Arch a small steel plate to cover the aluminum shift housing. Drill
it so it uses two of the existing aluminum cover's bolts.

2. Weld two nuts on the plate such that the shift cable and casing can
fit straight through the two of them. Leave a gap between the nuts for a
small hose clamp to secure the cable casing.

3. Drill a hole across a bolt so that the uncased end of the cable can
pass though. After removing the vacuum diaphragm thing, weld this bolt
(perpendicular) to the shaft that pushes the shift fork. Put two nuts on
the bolt, leaving a gap between them so the drilled cable hole is exposed.

Assembly:

1. Scrape the mating surfaces of the fork cover and axle housing clean
and apply gasket goo. Line up the fork with the shift collar and bolt
the cover, with your steel plate, to the axle housing.

2. Drill a hole in your firewall above the gas pedal. Fit a grommet and
fish the cable through.

3. Fix the cable handle end to the underside of your dash with a bracket
and shove the handle full home.

4. Route the cable end to your shift assembly. Ensure you have enough
slack to allow for full drop of the axle then cut to fit.

5. Strip a few inches off the end of the cable casing. Pass the cable
through the nuts on your plate and insert the bare end into the bolt on
the shift rod. Make sure your cable handle is pushed home and that the
fork rod is pushed all the way to the right. Tighten the two nuts on the
cable end and tighten the hose clamp on the casing.

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org


JohnE.P.--JEP wrote:
> i dont have any fourwheel drive anymore,
> vacume lines?
> my idiot light used to be on and off iradically all the time,
> now isnt even on,
> ,
> any sugestions on how to chase the problem?
> the "auto-parts-jeep book" is pritty skimpy on info,
> ,
> all my vacume lines are hooked up and seem to have vacume in them
> ,
> a week ago when shifting out of 4 weel drive,
> i was driving and when i got up to 40mph the thing was riding like i
> was on a road with small bolders, stopped shifted in and out of 4
> wheel again
> and it went away,
> now no shifting back in
> ,
> any help advice apriciated,
> thinking of a manual overide instead of the vacume, but dam another
> 200.00
> ,
> johnp--not on my tires please

 

Hi John,

The 'small boulder' effect was probably due to the splined collar
grinding away on the edge of the inner axle because your vacuum
diaphragm failed and couldn't fully pull the collar away or your
aluminum fork is worn and has too much lateral play on the shift rod.

If your splines are still intact and the fork isn't too sloppy, make
your own manual shift. Mine was built for $0 with scrounged parts:

http://xjeep.dyndns.org/posilok

1. Arch a small steel plate to cover the aluminum shift housing. Drill
it so it uses two of the existing aluminum cover's bolts.

2. Weld two nuts on the plate such that the shift cable and casing can
fit straight through the two of them. Leave a gap between the nuts for a
small hose clamp to secure the cable casing.

3. Drill a hole across a bolt so that the uncased end of the cable can
pass though. After removing the vacuum diaphragm thing, weld this bolt
(perpendicular) to the shaft that pushes the shift fork. Put two nuts on
the bolt, leaving a gap between them so the drilled cable hole is exposed.

Assembly:

1. Scrape the mating surfaces of the fork cover and axle housing clean
and apply gasket goo. Line up the fork with the shift collar and bolt
the cover, with your steel plate, to the axle housing.

2. Drill a hole in your firewall above the gas pedal. Fit a grommet and
fish the cable through.

3. Fix the cable handle end to the underside of your dash with a bracket
and shove the handle full home.

4. Route the cable end to your shift assembly. Ensure you have enough
slack to allow for full drop of the axle then cut to fit.

5. Strip a few inches off the end of the cable casing. Pass the cable
through the nuts on your plate and insert the bare end into the bolt on
the shift rod. Make sure your cable handle is pushed home and that the
fork rod is pushed all the way to the right. Tighten the two nuts on the
cable end and tighten the hose clamp on the casing.

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org


JohnE.P.--JEP wrote:
> i dont have any fourwheel drive anymore,
> vacume lines?
> my idiot light used to be on and off iradically all the time,
> now isnt even on,
> ,
> any sugestions on how to chase the problem?
> the "auto-parts-jeep book" is pritty skimpy on info,
> ,
> all my vacume lines are hooked up and seem to have vacume in them
> ,
> a week ago when shifting out of 4 weel drive,
> i was driving and when i got up to 40mph the thing was riding like i
> was on a road with small bolders, stopped shifted in and out of 4
> wheel again
> and it went away,
> now no shifting back in
> ,
> any help advice apriciated,
> thinking of a manual overide instead of the vacume, but dam another
> 200.00
> ,
> johnp--not on my tires please