04WJGuy

For the 99-04's you had to make really good friends with a mechanic with a DRB reader and have him reset the DRL code to the US. No more DRL's, unfortunately that won't help you with the 05+ since the headlights and driving lights use the BUS system to check that thier working.

Dan

Cole MacDonald

I also have an 05. The DRL's use the high beam bulbs anyway so they will not interfere if you only put HID's in your low beams. You will also need a relay harness to make them work and not flicker. I only put HID's in my low beams because I wanted to keep the smart beam system functional since the smartbeams vary bulb brightness and HID's are either on or off.

zerocool25

I agree. My 07 GC has DRL high beam only. I installed my kit from my 2006 Grand prix (both bulbs are same) and had issues stated above. Got a $10 relay harness and worked great. Ive had them for 2+ years

Crow79

I hate to revive a long dead thread... But has anyone tried simply replacing the high beam bulb on a 1999 GC with a low beam bulb, and plugging the regular halogen high beam into the low beam harness? Then you can use your HIDs with a flick of the high beam when you need them... This SHOULD eliminate the flickering problem in theory.

I just installed an HID projector beam kit, and I am currently having trouble with flickering on the DRL setting as well. So my next thought was to try the setup above since the high beams in my particular housings are just halogens anyway.... Thoughts?

AutoJunkieMan

With the modern HID kits available i wouldn't think this problem would exist anymore. Most HID kits actually use LESS power then traditional halogen bulbs, so this "flicker" issue kind of baffles me. I've seen full Hi and Low beam kits available in the toronto area.
HID Canada - HIDC-R3 HID Conversion Kit [KTR3XX] - $169.99 : HID Canada, Illuminating Your World
I think that is the website, the technology has come up a bit since 2009?

mr blondie

The flickering is usually on the can bus system. I've had both a 2K2 WJ OVERLAND and still currently have a 2K7 OVERLAND and had/have Xenons in both. My WJ just bedded a relay and a wire harness and the WK needs the same plus a capacitor. And if you get a PBS code it'll even need a resistor. I have a starscan and changed my Canadian WK to USA mode. Has nothing to do with the Xenons but it's the high beams. Also the WJ either use the relay and harness and live with the Xenons always on or you can run a ugly switch.

Crow79

The problem I'm having is actually this:

I installed the ballasts and capacitors on both sides, but found that the driver side light does NOT work when hooked up to the capacitor, no matter which capacitor I use. I can't figure out why, it doesn't make any sense. Strangely enough, with ONE capacitor on the passenger side, so long as I actually turn the low beams ON before starting my vehicle, I can turn the low beams OFF after the lights warm up and run them as DRLs.

So, I have two choices, run the halogen high beams off the low beam harness so I still get DRLs without flicker issues, or try to purchase Canbus ballasts that have the capacitors built in. Problem is, I don't know if I'd just be wasting my money - what if the driver side just doesn't work with the capacitor, built in or not? I have also heard I may need to use a wiring harness to run the HIDs directly off my battery if I want them to work properly. What is involved with that? I haven't seen any video installs covering it yet...

Yes, running my HIDs off the high beam switch is a ghetto little MacGyver move, but it saves me money and it should work. I'm surprised no one has thought to try this simple solution.

mr blondie

Sounds like you have a burnt capacitor or the polarity is wrong. Either way it's sounds to me like you're not using a relay. You don't need 2 capacitors only one. You need to do what you're saying. Take a normal 12 volt auto relay put the 12 volt constant from battery to 30(relay pin), make 87(relay pin) go to both ballasts positive, and use only one of your jeeps low beam plugs and use it on the relays triggers 85 and 86 (polarity isn't important)but use the capacitor on the triggers. No choice only way to install Xenons properly require a relay and wiring harness to the battery.

Crow79

The Capacitor and polarity are fine, because they both work on the passenger side without issue. I won't run a relay and wiring harness off the battery... It'll just turn an already culttered mess into worse. I already had to reroute the headlight wiring harnesses to reach my aftermarket bulb inputs by cutting holes in the headlight bracket. In hindsight, I should have bought the lights most similar to stock, but I liked the look of a different set.

I've ordered higher quality capacitors to see if it fixes the problem... If not, I'm happy to run the HIDs off the high beam plugs instead. To me, it's the simplest most elegant solution.

mr blondie

I understand.

Just so you know I'm a seller/tech for automotive electronics and IMO you will either burn your ballasts or even risk burning fuses or even worse, wires. I sell hIds for 60 locally and I used to install them when I was younger but now I havE a tech doing it for me. When clients pay 40$ on install some of them want to try and save money and do their own install. Sure it's plug and play but there is rarely enough juice(amps) in a oem headlight wiring harness to do the initial power up of cold Xenons. If you ever see people with aftermarket hids and only one is working 9/10 times it's cause they tried to cut corners and skipped out on the relay harness.

Good luck to you.