I've been having intermittent check engine light problems w/my Cherokee ever
since I had the header swapped out. Now I know why,
when I was changing the oil I noticed the wiring harness for the O2 sensor was
shredded, evidentally by the front propeller shaft. I'm thinking I might
zip-tie the new O2 harness to the 4WD push cable assembly so it'll be out of
the way of the front prop shaft. Anyone have any alternative ideas? Am I
risking my Catalytic converter by continuing to drive the vehicle this way?
-Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

 

Wblane did pass the time by typing:
> I've been having intermittent check engine light problems w/my Cherokee ever
> since I had the header swapped out. Now I know why,
> when I was changing the oil I noticed the wiring harness for the O2 sensor was
> shredded, evidentally by the front propeller shaft. I'm thinking I might
> zip-tie the new O2 harness to the 4WD push cable assembly so it'll be out of
> the way of the front prop shaft. Anyone have any alternative ideas? Am I
> risking my Catalytic converter by continuing to drive the vehicle this way?
> -Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

Running without the O2 sensor is not a good idea. The ECU uses it to
adjust the mix so your engine isn't going to be running at the proper
mix. Could be rich, could be lean, neither is good.

Now if the wires are just frayed they probably still are ok for a while.
Mine got fairly badly melted at the clamp that holds them to the engine
block. Had to rewrap the wires and route them away from heat.

I use wire loom and zip ties to keep things out of the way.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

 

Wblane did pass the time by typing:
> I've been having intermittent check engine light problems w/my Cherokee ever
> since I had the header swapped out. Now I know why,
> when I was changing the oil I noticed the wiring harness for the O2 sensor was
> shredded, evidentally by the front propeller shaft. I'm thinking I might
> zip-tie the new O2 harness to the 4WD push cable assembly so it'll be out of
> the way of the front prop shaft. Anyone have any alternative ideas? Am I
> risking my Catalytic converter by continuing to drive the vehicle this way?
> -Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

Running without the O2 sensor is not a good idea. The ECU uses it to
adjust the mix so your engine isn't going to be running at the proper
mix. Could be rich, could be lean, neither is good.

Now if the wires are just frayed they probably still are ok for a while.
Mine got fairly badly melted at the clamp that holds them to the engine
block. Had to rewrap the wires and route them away from heat.

I use wire loom and zip ties to keep things out of the way.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

 

Wblane did pass the time by typing:
> I've been having intermittent check engine light problems w/my Cherokee ever
> since I had the header swapped out. Now I know why,
> when I was changing the oil I noticed the wiring harness for the O2 sensor was
> shredded, evidentally by the front propeller shaft. I'm thinking I might
> zip-tie the new O2 harness to the 4WD push cable assembly so it'll be out of
> the way of the front prop shaft. Anyone have any alternative ideas? Am I
> risking my Catalytic converter by continuing to drive the vehicle this way?
> -Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

Running without the O2 sensor is not a good idea. The ECU uses it to
adjust the mix so your engine isn't going to be running at the proper
mix. Could be rich, could be lean, neither is good.

Now if the wires are just frayed they probably still are ok for a while.
Mine got fairly badly melted at the clamp that holds them to the engine
block. Had to rewrap the wires and route them away from heat.

I use wire loom and zip ties to keep things out of the way.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

 

Wblane did pass the time by typing:
> I've been having intermittent check engine light problems w/my Cherokee ever
> since I had the header swapped out. Now I know why,
> when I was changing the oil I noticed the wiring harness for the O2 sensor was
> shredded, evidentally by the front propeller shaft. I'm thinking I might
> zip-tie the new O2 harness to the 4WD push cable assembly so it'll be out of
> the way of the front prop shaft. Anyone have any alternative ideas? Am I
> risking my Catalytic converter by continuing to drive the vehicle this way?
> -Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

Running without the O2 sensor is not a good idea. The ECU uses it to
adjust the mix so your engine isn't going to be running at the proper
mix. Could be rich, could be lean, neither is good.

Now if the wires are just frayed they probably still are ok for a while.
Mine got fairly badly melted at the clamp that holds them to the engine
block. Had to rewrap the wires and route them away from heat.

I use wire loom and zip ties to keep things out of the way.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

 

Doug, thanks for the response, but the wires aren't only frayed, one of them
has broken. I just picked up a Bosch replacement O2 sensor. I just hope I can
find a long enough zip tie to do the job.

>Now if the wires are just frayed they probably still are ok for a while.
>Mine got fairly badly melted at the clamp that holds them to the engine
>block. Had to rewrap the wires and route them away


-Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

 

Doug, thanks for the response, but the wires aren't only frayed, one of them
has broken. I just picked up a Bosch replacement O2 sensor. I just hope I can
find a long enough zip tie to do the job.

>Now if the wires are just frayed they probably still are ok for a while.
>Mine got fairly badly melted at the clamp that holds them to the engine
>block. Had to rewrap the wires and route them away


-Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

 

Doug, thanks for the response, but the wires aren't only frayed, one of them
has broken. I just picked up a Bosch replacement O2 sensor. I just hope I can
find a long enough zip tie to do the job.

>Now if the wires are just frayed they probably still are ok for a while.
>Mine got fairly badly melted at the clamp that holds them to the engine
>block. Had to rewrap the wires and route them away


-Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

 

Doug, thanks for the response, but the wires aren't only frayed, one of them
has broken. I just picked up a Bosch replacement O2 sensor. I just hope I can
find a long enough zip tie to do the job.

>Now if the wires are just frayed they probably still are ok for a while.
>Mine got fairly badly melted at the clamp that holds them to the engine
>block. Had to rewrap the wires and route them away


-Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

 

Wblane did pass the time by typing:
> Doug, thanks for the response, but the wires aren't only frayed, one of them
> has broken. I just picked up a Bosch replacement O2 sensor. I just hope I can
> find a long enough zip tie to do the job.

That would then depend on the wire that's broke. Two of them are for the
heater circuit. If either one of those are broke you will just run rich
for the first few minutes of run time. Can't say for sure since I don't
have your years wiring diagram.

--
DougW