Do you think this frame is repairable?

Passenger side rear spring hanger
http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_07.JPG

Drivers side rear spring hanger
http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_08.JPG

Passenger side body mount
http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_05.JPG

Drivers side side body mount
http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_06.JPG

The rest of the frame has some surface rust, these are the BAD spots.

For a bonus prize.....

Any suggestions on getting these broken bolts out of my used wrangler tub
rear mounts?
http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_03.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_04.JPG
(the last one I might be able to just weld a nut on)

 

> Do you think this frame is repairable? <

It is, but you need to very CAREFULLY do a hammer test all over it to reveal
any near rust-throughs. The body/tub mounts can be replaced and the rear
hangers can be removed and the area repaired. The left rear looks kinda
weak, look it over thoroughly and repair as needed.

> Any suggestions on getting these broken bolts out of my used wrangler tub
rear mounts?>

I uncovered the same issue on the LR of my '94 YJ last year when I installed
a 1" body lift. No amount of heating, easy-outing, cursing, etc. would get
the SOB out of the captive nut inside the rear tub xmember. The RR came out
but just barely. I finally just took a big punch and drove the captive nut
(which is about 1" square) completely up and out of its retainers (which was
quite easy to do) and used a hole saw to drill a 3/4" hole right above the
mount so I could get a wrench in there and I used a nut and lock washer on
the bolt. I sealed the hole with a standard plastic body plug and some body
sealer. As for the captive nut, Its still up inside the tub, held in place
by a big wad of sealer. Otherwise I had to split open the xmember to pull it
out, not worth the trouble.

 

> Do you think this frame is repairable? <

It is, but you need to very CAREFULLY do a hammer test all over it to reveal
any near rust-throughs. The body/tub mounts can be replaced and the rear
hangers can be removed and the area repaired. The left rear looks kinda
weak, look it over thoroughly and repair as needed.

> Any suggestions on getting these broken bolts out of my used wrangler tub
rear mounts?>

I uncovered the same issue on the LR of my '94 YJ last year when I installed
a 1" body lift. No amount of heating, easy-outing, cursing, etc. would get
the SOB out of the captive nut inside the rear tub xmember. The RR came out
but just barely. I finally just took a big punch and drove the captive nut
(which is about 1" square) completely up and out of its retainers (which was
quite easy to do) and used a hole saw to drill a 3/4" hole right above the
mount so I could get a wrench in there and I used a nut and lock washer on
the bolt. I sealed the hole with a standard plastic body plug and some body
sealer. As for the captive nut, Its still up inside the tub, held in place
by a big wad of sealer. Otherwise I had to split open the xmember to pull it
out, not worth the trouble.

 

> Do you think this frame is repairable? <

It is, but you need to very CAREFULLY do a hammer test all over it to reveal
any near rust-throughs. The body/tub mounts can be replaced and the rear
hangers can be removed and the area repaired. The left rear looks kinda
weak, look it over thoroughly and repair as needed.

> Any suggestions on getting these broken bolts out of my used wrangler tub
rear mounts?>

I uncovered the same issue on the LR of my '94 YJ last year when I installed
a 1" body lift. No amount of heating, easy-outing, cursing, etc. would get
the SOB out of the captive nut inside the rear tub xmember. The RR came out
but just barely. I finally just took a big punch and drove the captive nut
(which is about 1" square) completely up and out of its retainers (which was
quite easy to do) and used a hole saw to drill a 3/4" hole right above the
mount so I could get a wrench in there and I used a nut and lock washer on
the bolt. I sealed the hole with a standard plastic body plug and some body
sealer. As for the captive nut, Its still up inside the tub, held in place
by a big wad of sealer. Otherwise I had to split open the xmember to pull it
out, not worth the trouble.

 

> Do you think this frame is repairable? <

It is, but you need to very CAREFULLY do a hammer test all over it to reveal
any near rust-throughs. The body/tub mounts can be replaced and the rear
hangers can be removed and the area repaired. The left rear looks kinda
weak, look it over thoroughly and repair as needed.

> Any suggestions on getting these broken bolts out of my used wrangler tub
rear mounts?>

I uncovered the same issue on the LR of my '94 YJ last year when I installed
a 1" body lift. No amount of heating, easy-outing, cursing, etc. would get
the SOB out of the captive nut inside the rear tub xmember. The RR came out
but just barely. I finally just took a big punch and drove the captive nut
(which is about 1" square) completely up and out of its retainers (which was
quite easy to do) and used a hole saw to drill a 3/4" hole right above the
mount so I could get a wrench in there and I used a nut and lock washer on
the bolt. I sealed the hole with a standard plastic body plug and some body
sealer. As for the captive nut, Its still up inside the tub, held in place
by a big wad of sealer. Otherwise I had to split open the xmember to pull it
out, not worth the trouble.

 

I don't think I'll tackle it myself. Although I have a sufficient welder, I
don't have the practice/fabrication expertise. I have a friend who welds
for a living (and builds jeeps for fun) and I just found out he's out of
work. I'll probably just get him to make the 4 hr trip and put him up for a
few days and pay him for his time. I've got a few other projects he can
tackle while he's at it.

"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cc1gkr07kk@enews2.newsguy.com...
> > Do you think this frame is repairable? <
>
> It is, but you need to very CAREFULLY do a hammer test all over it to
reveal
> any near rust-throughs. The body/tub mounts can be replaced and the rear
> hangers can be removed and the area repaired. The left rear looks kinda
> weak, look it over thoroughly and repair as needed.
>
> > Any suggestions on getting these broken bolts out of my used wrangler
tub
> rear mounts?>
>
> I uncovered the same issue on the LR of my '94 YJ last year when I
installed
> a 1" body lift. No amount of heating, easy-outing, cursing, etc. would get
> the SOB out of the captive nut inside the rear tub xmember. The RR came
out
> but just barely. I finally just took a big punch and drove the captive nut
> (which is about 1" square) completely up and out of its retainers (which
was
> quite easy to do) and used a hole saw to drill a 3/4" hole right above the
> mount so I could get a wrench in there and I used a nut and lock washer on
> the bolt. I sealed the hole with a standard plastic body plug and some
body
> sealer. As for the captive nut, Its still up inside the tub, held in place
> by a big wad of sealer. Otherwise I had to split open the xmember to pull
it
> out, not worth the trouble.
>
>

 

I don't think I'll tackle it myself. Although I have a sufficient welder, I
don't have the practice/fabrication expertise. I have a friend who welds
for a living (and builds jeeps for fun) and I just found out he's out of
work. I'll probably just get him to make the 4 hr trip and put him up for a
few days and pay him for his time. I've got a few other projects he can
tackle while he's at it.

"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cc1gkr07kk@enews2.newsguy.com...
> > Do you think this frame is repairable? <
>
> It is, but you need to very CAREFULLY do a hammer test all over it to
reveal
> any near rust-throughs. The body/tub mounts can be replaced and the rear
> hangers can be removed and the area repaired. The left rear looks kinda
> weak, look it over thoroughly and repair as needed.
>
> > Any suggestions on getting these broken bolts out of my used wrangler
tub
> rear mounts?>
>
> I uncovered the same issue on the LR of my '94 YJ last year when I
installed
> a 1" body lift. No amount of heating, easy-outing, cursing, etc. would get
> the SOB out of the captive nut inside the rear tub xmember. The RR came
out
> but just barely. I finally just took a big punch and drove the captive nut
> (which is about 1" square) completely up and out of its retainers (which
was
> quite easy to do) and used a hole saw to drill a 3/4" hole right above the
> mount so I could get a wrench in there and I used a nut and lock washer on
> the bolt. I sealed the hole with a standard plastic body plug and some
body
> sealer. As for the captive nut, Its still up inside the tub, held in place
> by a big wad of sealer. Otherwise I had to split open the xmember to pull
it
> out, not worth the trouble.
>
>

 

I don't think I'll tackle it myself. Although I have a sufficient welder, I
don't have the practice/fabrication expertise. I have a friend who welds
for a living (and builds jeeps for fun) and I just found out he's out of
work. I'll probably just get him to make the 4 hr trip and put him up for a
few days and pay him for his time. I've got a few other projects he can
tackle while he's at it.

"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cc1gkr07kk@enews2.newsguy.com...
> > Do you think this frame is repairable? <
>
> It is, but you need to very CAREFULLY do a hammer test all over it to
reveal
> any near rust-throughs. The body/tub mounts can be replaced and the rear
> hangers can be removed and the area repaired. The left rear looks kinda
> weak, look it over thoroughly and repair as needed.
>
> > Any suggestions on getting these broken bolts out of my used wrangler
tub
> rear mounts?>
>
> I uncovered the same issue on the LR of my '94 YJ last year when I
installed
> a 1" body lift. No amount of heating, easy-outing, cursing, etc. would get
> the SOB out of the captive nut inside the rear tub xmember. The RR came
out
> but just barely. I finally just took a big punch and drove the captive nut
> (which is about 1" square) completely up and out of its retainers (which
was
> quite easy to do) and used a hole saw to drill a 3/4" hole right above the
> mount so I could get a wrench in there and I used a nut and lock washer on
> the bolt. I sealed the hole with a standard plastic body plug and some
body
> sealer. As for the captive nut, Its still up inside the tub, held in place
> by a big wad of sealer. Otherwise I had to split open the xmember to pull
it
> out, not worth the trouble.
>
>

 

I don't think I'll tackle it myself. Although I have a sufficient welder, I
don't have the practice/fabrication expertise. I have a friend who welds
for a living (and builds jeeps for fun) and I just found out he's out of
work. I'll probably just get him to make the 4 hr trip and put him up for a
few days and pay him for his time. I've got a few other projects he can
tackle while he's at it.

"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cc1gkr07kk@enews2.newsguy.com...
> > Do you think this frame is repairable? <
>
> It is, but you need to very CAREFULLY do a hammer test all over it to
reveal
> any near rust-throughs. The body/tub mounts can be replaced and the rear
> hangers can be removed and the area repaired. The left rear looks kinda
> weak, look it over thoroughly and repair as needed.
>
> > Any suggestions on getting these broken bolts out of my used wrangler
tub
> rear mounts?>
>
> I uncovered the same issue on the LR of my '94 YJ last year when I
installed
> a 1" body lift. No amount of heating, easy-outing, cursing, etc. would get
> the SOB out of the captive nut inside the rear tub xmember. The RR came
out
> but just barely. I finally just took a big punch and drove the captive nut
> (which is about 1" square) completely up and out of its retainers (which
was
> quite easy to do) and used a hole saw to drill a 3/4" hole right above the
> mount so I could get a wrench in there and I used a nut and lock washer on
> the bolt. I sealed the hole with a standard plastic body plug and some
body
> sealer. As for the captive nut, Its still up inside the tub, held in place
> by a big wad of sealer. Otherwise I had to split open the xmember to pull
it
> out, not worth the trouble.
>
>

 

This guy's was much worse: http://www.saturdaybang.com/jeep/ Real
Jeep do not rust out because they use thicker open channel frames and
rivets like the commercial trucks.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

"Kevin S." wrote:
>
> Do you think this frame is repairable?
>
> Passenger side rear spring hanger
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_07.JPG
>
> Drivers side rear spring hanger
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_08.JPG
>
> Passenger side body mount
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_05.JPG
>
> Drivers side side body mount
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_06.JPG
>
> The rest of the frame has some surface rust, these are the BAD spots.
>
> For a bonus prize.....
>
> Any suggestions on getting these broken bolts out of my used wrangler tub
> rear mounts?
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_03.JPG
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee.../july_1_04.JPG
> (the last one I might be able to just weld a nut on)