ZJ recommended regular maintenance
Guest
Posts: n/a
ZJ recommended regular maintenance
I bought a used 1997 ZJ three years ago, and thinking about it, I've
let maintenance slip quite a bit -- that is, I did regular oil changes,
and that's just about it. The previous owner should me the work sheet
from a pretty major tune-up at around 70k miles, but I'm up to 120k
now. I just put on new rotors and pads in the rear, and new parking
brake shoes, and as that was pretty easy to do, it got me into thinking
that maybe I could spend some more time doing some easy tune-ups, if
they would do the car good.
It's a 2WD and only used on the road. Generally, I follow the "if it
ain't broke, don't fix it" strategy, but then with cars I guess there
are things you better change while they're still good, when they break
they can cause a whole lot of damage (and the hassle of having a broken
car, too). Timing belt is something which comes to my mind, though
that's probably not DIY for me.
So I'd like to get some opinion on these items I can think of,
additional suggestions welcome.
* spark plugs -- I guess one is supposed to change them once in a
while, though the engine is running just fine
* spark plug cables, distributor -- again, everything's working fine,
so I don't see much of a point?
* grease -- haven't done a thing, but I guess this is an item where
you'll only notice once it's too late. And where -- drive shaft and
suspension joints is all I can think of (and I've no clue, really, but
then using a grease gun probably isn't too hard)
* differential fluid. I only have a rear differential, the one with the
rubber plug, and it's slightly leaking from the plug. I'd guess a new
plug will help. I guess it may be a good idea to change the fluid at
the time? What's recommended, new gasket or just the silicone stuff? By
the way, he differential also makes a whining sound under no load
(basically, when I push on the gas and the car accelerates it's quiet,
when I let go off the gas completely, so the engine slightly brakes,
it's fine, but with just a little bit of gas it makes that sound. But
it's been doing this since I bought the car, so it can't be too
harmful?)
* automatic transmission fluid -- worth changing? And how hard is that
diy?
* air filter -- that's an easy one, and may be worth it?
* brake fluid -- another item, where I don't have any problems, so I
don't really see any reason to mess with it.
I'm sure I've forgotten some stuff, pointers welcome. Also, how about
more serious items like timing belt etc -- anything I should take it to
the shop for?
Lots of questions, I know...
let maintenance slip quite a bit -- that is, I did regular oil changes,
and that's just about it. The previous owner should me the work sheet
from a pretty major tune-up at around 70k miles, but I'm up to 120k
now. I just put on new rotors and pads in the rear, and new parking
brake shoes, and as that was pretty easy to do, it got me into thinking
that maybe I could spend some more time doing some easy tune-ups, if
they would do the car good.
It's a 2WD and only used on the road. Generally, I follow the "if it
ain't broke, don't fix it" strategy, but then with cars I guess there
are things you better change while they're still good, when they break
they can cause a whole lot of damage (and the hassle of having a broken
car, too). Timing belt is something which comes to my mind, though
that's probably not DIY for me.
So I'd like to get some opinion on these items I can think of,
additional suggestions welcome.
* spark plugs -- I guess one is supposed to change them once in a
while, though the engine is running just fine
* spark plug cables, distributor -- again, everything's working fine,
so I don't see much of a point?
* grease -- haven't done a thing, but I guess this is an item where
you'll only notice once it's too late. And where -- drive shaft and
suspension joints is all I can think of (and I've no clue, really, but
then using a grease gun probably isn't too hard)
* differential fluid. I only have a rear differential, the one with the
rubber plug, and it's slightly leaking from the plug. I'd guess a new
plug will help. I guess it may be a good idea to change the fluid at
the time? What's recommended, new gasket or just the silicone stuff? By
the way, he differential also makes a whining sound under no load
(basically, when I push on the gas and the car accelerates it's quiet,
when I let go off the gas completely, so the engine slightly brakes,
it's fine, but with just a little bit of gas it makes that sound. But
it's been doing this since I bought the car, so it can't be too
harmful?)
* automatic transmission fluid -- worth changing? And how hard is that
diy?
* air filter -- that's an easy one, and may be worth it?
* brake fluid -- another item, where I don't have any problems, so I
don't really see any reason to mess with it.
I'm sure I've forgotten some stuff, pointers welcome. Also, how about
more serious items like timing belt etc -- anything I should take it to
the shop for?
Lots of questions, I know...
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ZJ recommended regular maintenance
These intervals are for the WJ that I drive but I assume yours is similar.
In recent years some of the service interval recommendations have been
extended, some shortened.
Generally, I follow the "if it
> ain't broke, don't fix it" strategy, but then with cars I guess there
> are things you better change while they're still good, when they break
> they can cause a whole lot of damage (and the hassle of having a broken
I prefer to work on the vehicle in the summertime at my leisure than broken
don in the snow in February.
> * spark plugs -- I guess one is supposed to change them once in a
> while, though the engine is running just fine
I change them every 2 years/30k. I prefer Bosch Platinums
> * spark plug cables, distributor -- again, everything's working fine,> so
> I don't see much of a point?
Less commonly needed, be sure to clean the rotor and cap, check for evidence
of spark tracks
> * grease -- haven't done a thing, but I guess this is an item where
> you'll only notice once it's too late.
Every oil change
> * differential fluid. I only have a rear differential, the one with the >
> rubber plug, and it's slightly leaking from the plug. I'd guess a new
> plug will help. I guess it may be a good idea to change the fluid at the
> time? What's recommended, new gasket or just the silicone stuff? By
> the way, he differential also makes a whining sound under no load
Severe service interval is 1 year, normal service 30k miles. You can use a
gasket or RTV. It is kinda a messy job, synthetic tolerate long change
intervals better but costs substantially more. Because of the noise..while
you have it open check for damage. If it was noise free I might say leave
the cover on and use a suction pump via the filler hole but if i is noisy
you need to take a look inside.
> * automatic transmission fluid -- worth changing? And how hard is that >
> diy?
You take the bolts loose on the pan, drain, replace the filter, bolt it back
up, add fluid. the only consideration is spilling 4-5 quarts of tranny
fluid on the ground. Check your manual for fluid recommendations. It
probably says ATF+3. If so you can use that or the new ATF+4. DO NOT USE
ANY OTHER KINDS INCLUDING DEXTRON What I mean is don't use something that
says in small print on the back 'meets atf+3, or 'universal'. The front
label should say in big letters ATF+3 (or 4)
> * air filter -- that's an easy one, and may be worth it?
Every 2 years/30k during your every 2 year/30k tuneup or more often if
needed. Hold it up to the light, if you cannot see light coming through it
is time to pitch.
> * brake fluid -- another item, where I don't have any problems, so I don't
> really see any reason to mess with it.
Think again. Every 2 years. Use the new synthetic DOT 4. It takes a quart
for the flush and the synthetic will cost an extra $1 I can probably
guarantee what you have how is black and has floaters, it should be clear.
Power steering fluid every 2 years. Carefully pull the return line or
siphon the old stuff, drive a bit, repeat 2-3 times. Use the new synthetic
(costs 50 cents a quart more) and the pump will run quieter.
In recent years some of the service interval recommendations have been
extended, some shortened.
Generally, I follow the "if it
> ain't broke, don't fix it" strategy, but then with cars I guess there
> are things you better change while they're still good, when they break
> they can cause a whole lot of damage (and the hassle of having a broken
I prefer to work on the vehicle in the summertime at my leisure than broken
don in the snow in February.
> * spark plugs -- I guess one is supposed to change them once in a
> while, though the engine is running just fine
I change them every 2 years/30k. I prefer Bosch Platinums
> * spark plug cables, distributor -- again, everything's working fine,> so
> I don't see much of a point?
Less commonly needed, be sure to clean the rotor and cap, check for evidence
of spark tracks
> * grease -- haven't done a thing, but I guess this is an item where
> you'll only notice once it's too late.
Every oil change
> * differential fluid. I only have a rear differential, the one with the >
> rubber plug, and it's slightly leaking from the plug. I'd guess a new
> plug will help. I guess it may be a good idea to change the fluid at the
> time? What's recommended, new gasket or just the silicone stuff? By
> the way, he differential also makes a whining sound under no load
Severe service interval is 1 year, normal service 30k miles. You can use a
gasket or RTV. It is kinda a messy job, synthetic tolerate long change
intervals better but costs substantially more. Because of the noise..while
you have it open check for damage. If it was noise free I might say leave
the cover on and use a suction pump via the filler hole but if i is noisy
you need to take a look inside.
> * automatic transmission fluid -- worth changing? And how hard is that >
> diy?
You take the bolts loose on the pan, drain, replace the filter, bolt it back
up, add fluid. the only consideration is spilling 4-5 quarts of tranny
fluid on the ground. Check your manual for fluid recommendations. It
probably says ATF+3. If so you can use that or the new ATF+4. DO NOT USE
ANY OTHER KINDS INCLUDING DEXTRON What I mean is don't use something that
says in small print on the back 'meets atf+3, or 'universal'. The front
label should say in big letters ATF+3 (or 4)
> * air filter -- that's an easy one, and may be worth it?
Every 2 years/30k during your every 2 year/30k tuneup or more often if
needed. Hold it up to the light, if you cannot see light coming through it
is time to pitch.
> * brake fluid -- another item, where I don't have any problems, so I don't
> really see any reason to mess with it.
Think again. Every 2 years. Use the new synthetic DOT 4. It takes a quart
for the flush and the synthetic will cost an extra $1 I can probably
guarantee what you have how is black and has floaters, it should be clear.
Power steering fluid every 2 years. Carefully pull the return line or
siphon the old stuff, drive a bit, repeat 2-3 times. Use the new synthetic
(costs 50 cents a quart more) and the pump will run quieter.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ZJ recommended regular maintenance
These intervals are for the WJ that I drive but I assume yours is similar.
In recent years some of the service interval recommendations have been
extended, some shortened.
Generally, I follow the "if it
> ain't broke, don't fix it" strategy, but then with cars I guess there
> are things you better change while they're still good, when they break
> they can cause a whole lot of damage (and the hassle of having a broken
I prefer to work on the vehicle in the summertime at my leisure than broken
don in the snow in February.
> * spark plugs -- I guess one is supposed to change them once in a
> while, though the engine is running just fine
I change them every 2 years/30k. I prefer Bosch Platinums
> * spark plug cables, distributor -- again, everything's working fine,> so
> I don't see much of a point?
Less commonly needed, be sure to clean the rotor and cap, check for evidence
of spark tracks
> * grease -- haven't done a thing, but I guess this is an item where
> you'll only notice once it's too late.
Every oil change
> * differential fluid. I only have a rear differential, the one with the >
> rubber plug, and it's slightly leaking from the plug. I'd guess a new
> plug will help. I guess it may be a good idea to change the fluid at the
> time? What's recommended, new gasket or just the silicone stuff? By
> the way, he differential also makes a whining sound under no load
Severe service interval is 1 year, normal service 30k miles. You can use a
gasket or RTV. It is kinda a messy job, synthetic tolerate long change
intervals better but costs substantially more. Because of the noise..while
you have it open check for damage. If it was noise free I might say leave
the cover on and use a suction pump via the filler hole but if i is noisy
you need to take a look inside.
> * automatic transmission fluid -- worth changing? And how hard is that >
> diy?
You take the bolts loose on the pan, drain, replace the filter, bolt it back
up, add fluid. the only consideration is spilling 4-5 quarts of tranny
fluid on the ground. Check your manual for fluid recommendations. It
probably says ATF+3. If so you can use that or the new ATF+4. DO NOT USE
ANY OTHER KINDS INCLUDING DEXTRON What I mean is don't use something that
says in small print on the back 'meets atf+3, or 'universal'. The front
label should say in big letters ATF+3 (or 4)
> * air filter -- that's an easy one, and may be worth it?
Every 2 years/30k during your every 2 year/30k tuneup or more often if
needed. Hold it up to the light, if you cannot see light coming through it
is time to pitch.
> * brake fluid -- another item, where I don't have any problems, so I don't
> really see any reason to mess with it.
Think again. Every 2 years. Use the new synthetic DOT 4. It takes a quart
for the flush and the synthetic will cost an extra $1 I can probably
guarantee what you have how is black and has floaters, it should be clear.
Power steering fluid every 2 years. Carefully pull the return line or
siphon the old stuff, drive a bit, repeat 2-3 times. Use the new synthetic
(costs 50 cents a quart more) and the pump will run quieter.
In recent years some of the service interval recommendations have been
extended, some shortened.
Generally, I follow the "if it
> ain't broke, don't fix it" strategy, but then with cars I guess there
> are things you better change while they're still good, when they break
> they can cause a whole lot of damage (and the hassle of having a broken
I prefer to work on the vehicle in the summertime at my leisure than broken
don in the snow in February.
> * spark plugs -- I guess one is supposed to change them once in a
> while, though the engine is running just fine
I change them every 2 years/30k. I prefer Bosch Platinums
> * spark plug cables, distributor -- again, everything's working fine,> so
> I don't see much of a point?
Less commonly needed, be sure to clean the rotor and cap, check for evidence
of spark tracks
> * grease -- haven't done a thing, but I guess this is an item where
> you'll only notice once it's too late.
Every oil change
> * differential fluid. I only have a rear differential, the one with the >
> rubber plug, and it's slightly leaking from the plug. I'd guess a new
> plug will help. I guess it may be a good idea to change the fluid at the
> time? What's recommended, new gasket or just the silicone stuff? By
> the way, he differential also makes a whining sound under no load
Severe service interval is 1 year, normal service 30k miles. You can use a
gasket or RTV. It is kinda a messy job, synthetic tolerate long change
intervals better but costs substantially more. Because of the noise..while
you have it open check for damage. If it was noise free I might say leave
the cover on and use a suction pump via the filler hole but if i is noisy
you need to take a look inside.
> * automatic transmission fluid -- worth changing? And how hard is that >
> diy?
You take the bolts loose on the pan, drain, replace the filter, bolt it back
up, add fluid. the only consideration is spilling 4-5 quarts of tranny
fluid on the ground. Check your manual for fluid recommendations. It
probably says ATF+3. If so you can use that or the new ATF+4. DO NOT USE
ANY OTHER KINDS INCLUDING DEXTRON What I mean is don't use something that
says in small print on the back 'meets atf+3, or 'universal'. The front
label should say in big letters ATF+3 (or 4)
> * air filter -- that's an easy one, and may be worth it?
Every 2 years/30k during your every 2 year/30k tuneup or more often if
needed. Hold it up to the light, if you cannot see light coming through it
is time to pitch.
> * brake fluid -- another item, where I don't have any problems, so I don't
> really see any reason to mess with it.
Think again. Every 2 years. Use the new synthetic DOT 4. It takes a quart
for the flush and the synthetic will cost an extra $1 I can probably
guarantee what you have how is black and has floaters, it should be clear.
Power steering fluid every 2 years. Carefully pull the return line or
siphon the old stuff, drive a bit, repeat 2-3 times. Use the new synthetic
(costs 50 cents a quart more) and the pump will run quieter.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ZJ recommended regular maintenance
These intervals are for the WJ that I drive but I assume yours is similar.
In recent years some of the service interval recommendations have been
extended, some shortened.
Generally, I follow the "if it
> ain't broke, don't fix it" strategy, but then with cars I guess there
> are things you better change while they're still good, when they break
> they can cause a whole lot of damage (and the hassle of having a broken
I prefer to work on the vehicle in the summertime at my leisure than broken
don in the snow in February.
> * spark plugs -- I guess one is supposed to change them once in a
> while, though the engine is running just fine
I change them every 2 years/30k. I prefer Bosch Platinums
> * spark plug cables, distributor -- again, everything's working fine,> so
> I don't see much of a point?
Less commonly needed, be sure to clean the rotor and cap, check for evidence
of spark tracks
> * grease -- haven't done a thing, but I guess this is an item where
> you'll only notice once it's too late.
Every oil change
> * differential fluid. I only have a rear differential, the one with the >
> rubber plug, and it's slightly leaking from the plug. I'd guess a new
> plug will help. I guess it may be a good idea to change the fluid at the
> time? What's recommended, new gasket or just the silicone stuff? By
> the way, he differential also makes a whining sound under no load
Severe service interval is 1 year, normal service 30k miles. You can use a
gasket or RTV. It is kinda a messy job, synthetic tolerate long change
intervals better but costs substantially more. Because of the noise..while
you have it open check for damage. If it was noise free I might say leave
the cover on and use a suction pump via the filler hole but if i is noisy
you need to take a look inside.
> * automatic transmission fluid -- worth changing? And how hard is that >
> diy?
You take the bolts loose on the pan, drain, replace the filter, bolt it back
up, add fluid. the only consideration is spilling 4-5 quarts of tranny
fluid on the ground. Check your manual for fluid recommendations. It
probably says ATF+3. If so you can use that or the new ATF+4. DO NOT USE
ANY OTHER KINDS INCLUDING DEXTRON What I mean is don't use something that
says in small print on the back 'meets atf+3, or 'universal'. The front
label should say in big letters ATF+3 (or 4)
> * air filter -- that's an easy one, and may be worth it?
Every 2 years/30k during your every 2 year/30k tuneup or more often if
needed. Hold it up to the light, if you cannot see light coming through it
is time to pitch.
> * brake fluid -- another item, where I don't have any problems, so I don't
> really see any reason to mess with it.
Think again. Every 2 years. Use the new synthetic DOT 4. It takes a quart
for the flush and the synthetic will cost an extra $1 I can probably
guarantee what you have how is black and has floaters, it should be clear.
Power steering fluid every 2 years. Carefully pull the return line or
siphon the old stuff, drive a bit, repeat 2-3 times. Use the new synthetic
(costs 50 cents a quart more) and the pump will run quieter.
In recent years some of the service interval recommendations have been
extended, some shortened.
Generally, I follow the "if it
> ain't broke, don't fix it" strategy, but then with cars I guess there
> are things you better change while they're still good, when they break
> they can cause a whole lot of damage (and the hassle of having a broken
I prefer to work on the vehicle in the summertime at my leisure than broken
don in the snow in February.
> * spark plugs -- I guess one is supposed to change them once in a
> while, though the engine is running just fine
I change them every 2 years/30k. I prefer Bosch Platinums
> * spark plug cables, distributor -- again, everything's working fine,> so
> I don't see much of a point?
Less commonly needed, be sure to clean the rotor and cap, check for evidence
of spark tracks
> * grease -- haven't done a thing, but I guess this is an item where
> you'll only notice once it's too late.
Every oil change
> * differential fluid. I only have a rear differential, the one with the >
> rubber plug, and it's slightly leaking from the plug. I'd guess a new
> plug will help. I guess it may be a good idea to change the fluid at the
> time? What's recommended, new gasket or just the silicone stuff? By
> the way, he differential also makes a whining sound under no load
Severe service interval is 1 year, normal service 30k miles. You can use a
gasket or RTV. It is kinda a messy job, synthetic tolerate long change
intervals better but costs substantially more. Because of the noise..while
you have it open check for damage. If it was noise free I might say leave
the cover on and use a suction pump via the filler hole but if i is noisy
you need to take a look inside.
> * automatic transmission fluid -- worth changing? And how hard is that >
> diy?
You take the bolts loose on the pan, drain, replace the filter, bolt it back
up, add fluid. the only consideration is spilling 4-5 quarts of tranny
fluid on the ground. Check your manual for fluid recommendations. It
probably says ATF+3. If so you can use that or the new ATF+4. DO NOT USE
ANY OTHER KINDS INCLUDING DEXTRON What I mean is don't use something that
says in small print on the back 'meets atf+3, or 'universal'. The front
label should say in big letters ATF+3 (or 4)
> * air filter -- that's an easy one, and may be worth it?
Every 2 years/30k during your every 2 year/30k tuneup or more often if
needed. Hold it up to the light, if you cannot see light coming through it
is time to pitch.
> * brake fluid -- another item, where I don't have any problems, so I don't
> really see any reason to mess with it.
Think again. Every 2 years. Use the new synthetic DOT 4. It takes a quart
for the flush and the synthetic will cost an extra $1 I can probably
guarantee what you have how is black and has floaters, it should be clear.
Power steering fluid every 2 years. Carefully pull the return line or
siphon the old stuff, drive a bit, repeat 2-3 times. Use the new synthetic
(costs 50 cents a quart more) and the pump will run quieter.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ZJ recommended regular maintenance
These intervals are for the WJ that I drive but I assume yours is similar.
In recent years some of the service interval recommendations have been
extended, some shortened.
Generally, I follow the "if it
> ain't broke, don't fix it" strategy, but then with cars I guess there
> are things you better change while they're still good, when they break
> they can cause a whole lot of damage (and the hassle of having a broken
I prefer to work on the vehicle in the summertime at my leisure than broken
don in the snow in February.
> * spark plugs -- I guess one is supposed to change them once in a
> while, though the engine is running just fine
I change them every 2 years/30k. I prefer Bosch Platinums
> * spark plug cables, distributor -- again, everything's working fine,> so
> I don't see much of a point?
Less commonly needed, be sure to clean the rotor and cap, check for evidence
of spark tracks
> * grease -- haven't done a thing, but I guess this is an item where
> you'll only notice once it's too late.
Every oil change
> * differential fluid. I only have a rear differential, the one with the >
> rubber plug, and it's slightly leaking from the plug. I'd guess a new
> plug will help. I guess it may be a good idea to change the fluid at the
> time? What's recommended, new gasket or just the silicone stuff? By
> the way, he differential also makes a whining sound under no load
Severe service interval is 1 year, normal service 30k miles. You can use a
gasket or RTV. It is kinda a messy job, synthetic tolerate long change
intervals better but costs substantially more. Because of the noise..while
you have it open check for damage. If it was noise free I might say leave
the cover on and use a suction pump via the filler hole but if i is noisy
you need to take a look inside.
> * automatic transmission fluid -- worth changing? And how hard is that >
> diy?
You take the bolts loose on the pan, drain, replace the filter, bolt it back
up, add fluid. the only consideration is spilling 4-5 quarts of tranny
fluid on the ground. Check your manual for fluid recommendations. It
probably says ATF+3. If so you can use that or the new ATF+4. DO NOT USE
ANY OTHER KINDS INCLUDING DEXTRON What I mean is don't use something that
says in small print on the back 'meets atf+3, or 'universal'. The front
label should say in big letters ATF+3 (or 4)
> * air filter -- that's an easy one, and may be worth it?
Every 2 years/30k during your every 2 year/30k tuneup or more often if
needed. Hold it up to the light, if you cannot see light coming through it
is time to pitch.
> * brake fluid -- another item, where I don't have any problems, so I don't
> really see any reason to mess with it.
Think again. Every 2 years. Use the new synthetic DOT 4. It takes a quart
for the flush and the synthetic will cost an extra $1 I can probably
guarantee what you have how is black and has floaters, it should be clear.
Power steering fluid every 2 years. Carefully pull the return line or
siphon the old stuff, drive a bit, repeat 2-3 times. Use the new synthetic
(costs 50 cents a quart more) and the pump will run quieter.
In recent years some of the service interval recommendations have been
extended, some shortened.
Generally, I follow the "if it
> ain't broke, don't fix it" strategy, but then with cars I guess there
> are things you better change while they're still good, when they break
> they can cause a whole lot of damage (and the hassle of having a broken
I prefer to work on the vehicle in the summertime at my leisure than broken
don in the snow in February.
> * spark plugs -- I guess one is supposed to change them once in a
> while, though the engine is running just fine
I change them every 2 years/30k. I prefer Bosch Platinums
> * spark plug cables, distributor -- again, everything's working fine,> so
> I don't see much of a point?
Less commonly needed, be sure to clean the rotor and cap, check for evidence
of spark tracks
> * grease -- haven't done a thing, but I guess this is an item where
> you'll only notice once it's too late.
Every oil change
> * differential fluid. I only have a rear differential, the one with the >
> rubber plug, and it's slightly leaking from the plug. I'd guess a new
> plug will help. I guess it may be a good idea to change the fluid at the
> time? What's recommended, new gasket or just the silicone stuff? By
> the way, he differential also makes a whining sound under no load
Severe service interval is 1 year, normal service 30k miles. You can use a
gasket or RTV. It is kinda a messy job, synthetic tolerate long change
intervals better but costs substantially more. Because of the noise..while
you have it open check for damage. If it was noise free I might say leave
the cover on and use a suction pump via the filler hole but if i is noisy
you need to take a look inside.
> * automatic transmission fluid -- worth changing? And how hard is that >
> diy?
You take the bolts loose on the pan, drain, replace the filter, bolt it back
up, add fluid. the only consideration is spilling 4-5 quarts of tranny
fluid on the ground. Check your manual for fluid recommendations. It
probably says ATF+3. If so you can use that or the new ATF+4. DO NOT USE
ANY OTHER KINDS INCLUDING DEXTRON What I mean is don't use something that
says in small print on the back 'meets atf+3, or 'universal'. The front
label should say in big letters ATF+3 (or 4)
> * air filter -- that's an easy one, and may be worth it?
Every 2 years/30k during your every 2 year/30k tuneup or more often if
needed. Hold it up to the light, if you cannot see light coming through it
is time to pitch.
> * brake fluid -- another item, where I don't have any problems, so I don't
> really see any reason to mess with it.
Think again. Every 2 years. Use the new synthetic DOT 4. It takes a quart
for the flush and the synthetic will cost an extra $1 I can probably
guarantee what you have how is black and has floaters, it should be clear.
Power steering fluid every 2 years. Carefully pull the return line or
siphon the old stuff, drive a bit, repeat 2-3 times. Use the new synthetic
(costs 50 cents a quart more) and the pump will run quieter.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ZJ recommended regular maintenance
**Bill have you got a ZJ maintenance schedule?
"kaig" <kai@germaschewski.name> wrote in message
news:1157120676.764634.202950@74g2000cwt.googlegro ups.com...
>I bought a used 1997 ZJ three years ago, and thinking about it, I've
> let maintenance slip quite a bit -- that is, I did regular oil changes,
> and that's just about it. The previous owner should me the work sheet
"kaig" <kai@germaschewski.name> wrote in message
news:1157120676.764634.202950@74g2000cwt.googlegro ups.com...
>I bought a used 1997 ZJ three years ago, and thinking about it, I've
> let maintenance slip quite a bit -- that is, I did regular oil changes,
> and that's just about it. The previous owner should me the work sheet
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ZJ recommended regular maintenance
**Bill have you got a ZJ maintenance schedule?
"kaig" <kai@germaschewski.name> wrote in message
news:1157120676.764634.202950@74g2000cwt.googlegro ups.com...
>I bought a used 1997 ZJ three years ago, and thinking about it, I've
> let maintenance slip quite a bit -- that is, I did regular oil changes,
> and that's just about it. The previous owner should me the work sheet
"kaig" <kai@germaschewski.name> wrote in message
news:1157120676.764634.202950@74g2000cwt.googlegro ups.com...
>I bought a used 1997 ZJ three years ago, and thinking about it, I've
> let maintenance slip quite a bit -- that is, I did regular oil changes,
> and that's just about it. The previous owner should me the work sheet
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ZJ recommended regular maintenance
**Bill have you got a ZJ maintenance schedule?
"kaig" <kai@germaschewski.name> wrote in message
news:1157120676.764634.202950@74g2000cwt.googlegro ups.com...
>I bought a used 1997 ZJ three years ago, and thinking about it, I've
> let maintenance slip quite a bit -- that is, I did regular oil changes,
> and that's just about it. The previous owner should me the work sheet
"kaig" <kai@germaschewski.name> wrote in message
news:1157120676.764634.202950@74g2000cwt.googlegro ups.com...
>I bought a used 1997 ZJ three years ago, and thinking about it, I've
> let maintenance slip quite a bit -- that is, I did regular oil changes,
> and that's just about it. The previous owner should me the work sheet
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ZJ recommended regular maintenance
**Bill have you got a ZJ maintenance schedule?
"kaig" <kai@germaschewski.name> wrote in message
news:1157120676.764634.202950@74g2000cwt.googlegro ups.com...
>I bought a used 1997 ZJ three years ago, and thinking about it, I've
> let maintenance slip quite a bit -- that is, I did regular oil changes,
> and that's just about it. The previous owner should me the work sheet
"kaig" <kai@germaschewski.name> wrote in message
news:1157120676.764634.202950@74g2000cwt.googlegro ups.com...
>I bought a used 1997 ZJ three years ago, and thinking about it, I've
> let maintenance slip quite a bit -- that is, I did regular oil changes,
> and that's just about it. The previous owner should me the work sheet
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ZJ recommended regular maintenance
If you want to save your self from a big mess when changing your ATF
fluid.
Go to any auto parts store and buy a hand pump for about 5 bucks, slide
the tubing down your ATF fill tube and pump out 3 or so quarts before
unbolting your pan.
Take it easy......John
fluid.
Go to any auto parts store and buy a hand pump for about 5 bucks, slide
the tubing down your ATF fill tube and pump out 3 or so quarts before
unbolting your pan.
Take it easy......John