Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
If you really want to do more than stand there with your thumbs in your
pockets, saying "No ma'am, it sure isn't cooling enough", then you need a
high and low side gauge set, and a basic air conditioning manual. A
thermometer to measure the output air temperature to the cabin is a big help
too.
If you are getting any cooling at all, then chances are really, really good
that you have a simple leak, and low refrigerant. You can do what all the
other shade tree mechanics do, add a 13 oz. can of refrigerant, and hope for
the best. Usually when I get a vehicle, with the symptoms you are
describing, this fixes it for a while. Sooner or later, you will have to
find that leak though. They get worse with time, you know. Soap and water
mixture in an old Windex spray bottle is better than nothing. Red or UV
leak detector in a can can be good, too.
A book like the basic repair manual from acsource.com is probably the best
investment you can make at this point.
Earle
"Diezmon" <notmyrealemail@fakeemail.com> wrote in message
news:bcWdnaZ7p6ktsxPZnZ2dnUVZ_vydnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:RIljg.52874$9c6.2909@dukeread11...
> > Diezmon did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hey all,
> > >
> > > I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air
> conditioning
> > > problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to
> hell
> > > it's not the evaporator.
> > >
> > > So, here's the deal:
> >
> > > -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> > > -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature
warm.
> ( I
> > > would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> > > probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> >
> > Your just slightly low on refrigerant.
> > The outlet tube should be colder than the inlet tube (expansion of the
> gas)
> > (outlet about 5-6 C or 8-10F colder than inlet)
> > Outlet is the big hose to the accumulator, inlet is the hardline from
the
> condenser
> >
> > Both tubes going through the firewall should be cold.
>
> According to my refill kit gauge, the pressure is ok. It's a kit that
> attaches to the low pressure side. I'm afraid of adding more from the
can,
> since that would put me in the "RED" zone..
>
> I suppose I should get a more accurate gauge, huh? ;)
>
> Tim
>
>
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
pockets, saying "No ma'am, it sure isn't cooling enough", then you need a
high and low side gauge set, and a basic air conditioning manual. A
thermometer to measure the output air temperature to the cabin is a big help
too.
If you are getting any cooling at all, then chances are really, really good
that you have a simple leak, and low refrigerant. You can do what all the
other shade tree mechanics do, add a 13 oz. can of refrigerant, and hope for
the best. Usually when I get a vehicle, with the symptoms you are
describing, this fixes it for a while. Sooner or later, you will have to
find that leak though. They get worse with time, you know. Soap and water
mixture in an old Windex spray bottle is better than nothing. Red or UV
leak detector in a can can be good, too.
A book like the basic repair manual from acsource.com is probably the best
investment you can make at this point.
Earle
"Diezmon" <notmyrealemail@fakeemail.com> wrote in message
news:bcWdnaZ7p6ktsxPZnZ2dnUVZ_vydnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:RIljg.52874$9c6.2909@dukeread11...
> > Diezmon did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hey all,
> > >
> > > I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air
> conditioning
> > > problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to
> hell
> > > it's not the evaporator.
> > >
> > > So, here's the deal:
> >
> > > -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> > > -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature
warm.
> ( I
> > > would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> > > probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> >
> > Your just slightly low on refrigerant.
> > The outlet tube should be colder than the inlet tube (expansion of the
> gas)
> > (outlet about 5-6 C or 8-10F colder than inlet)
> > Outlet is the big hose to the accumulator, inlet is the hardline from
the
> condenser
> >
> > Both tubes going through the firewall should be cold.
>
> According to my refill kit gauge, the pressure is ok. It's a kit that
> attaches to the low pressure side. I'm afraid of adding more from the
can,
> since that would put me in the "RED" zone..
>
> I suppose I should get a more accurate gauge, huh? ;)
>
> Tim
>
>
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
If you really want to do more than stand there with your thumbs in your
pockets, saying "No ma'am, it sure isn't cooling enough", then you need a
high and low side gauge set, and a basic air conditioning manual. A
thermometer to measure the output air temperature to the cabin is a big help
too.
If you are getting any cooling at all, then chances are really, really good
that you have a simple leak, and low refrigerant. You can do what all the
other shade tree mechanics do, add a 13 oz. can of refrigerant, and hope for
the best. Usually when I get a vehicle, with the symptoms you are
describing, this fixes it for a while. Sooner or later, you will have to
find that leak though. They get worse with time, you know. Soap and water
mixture in an old Windex spray bottle is better than nothing. Red or UV
leak detector in a can can be good, too.
A book like the basic repair manual from acsource.com is probably the best
investment you can make at this point.
Earle
"Diezmon" <notmyrealemail@fakeemail.com> wrote in message
news:bcWdnaZ7p6ktsxPZnZ2dnUVZ_vydnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:RIljg.52874$9c6.2909@dukeread11...
> > Diezmon did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hey all,
> > >
> > > I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air
> conditioning
> > > problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to
> hell
> > > it's not the evaporator.
> > >
> > > So, here's the deal:
> >
> > > -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> > > -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature
warm.
> ( I
> > > would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> > > probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> >
> > Your just slightly low on refrigerant.
> > The outlet tube should be colder than the inlet tube (expansion of the
> gas)
> > (outlet about 5-6 C or 8-10F colder than inlet)
> > Outlet is the big hose to the accumulator, inlet is the hardline from
the
> condenser
> >
> > Both tubes going through the firewall should be cold.
>
> According to my refill kit gauge, the pressure is ok. It's a kit that
> attaches to the low pressure side. I'm afraid of adding more from the
can,
> since that would put me in the "RED" zone..
>
> I suppose I should get a more accurate gauge, huh? ;)
>
> Tim
>
>
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
pockets, saying "No ma'am, it sure isn't cooling enough", then you need a
high and low side gauge set, and a basic air conditioning manual. A
thermometer to measure the output air temperature to the cabin is a big help
too.
If you are getting any cooling at all, then chances are really, really good
that you have a simple leak, and low refrigerant. You can do what all the
other shade tree mechanics do, add a 13 oz. can of refrigerant, and hope for
the best. Usually when I get a vehicle, with the symptoms you are
describing, this fixes it for a while. Sooner or later, you will have to
find that leak though. They get worse with time, you know. Soap and water
mixture in an old Windex spray bottle is better than nothing. Red or UV
leak detector in a can can be good, too.
A book like the basic repair manual from acsource.com is probably the best
investment you can make at this point.
Earle
"Diezmon" <notmyrealemail@fakeemail.com> wrote in message
news:bcWdnaZ7p6ktsxPZnZ2dnUVZ_vydnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:RIljg.52874$9c6.2909@dukeread11...
> > Diezmon did pass the time by typing:
> > > Hey all,
> > >
> > > I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air
> conditioning
> > > problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to
> hell
> > > it's not the evaporator.
> > >
> > > So, here's the deal:
> >
> > > -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> > > -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature
warm.
> ( I
> > > would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> > > probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> >
> > Your just slightly low on refrigerant.
> > The outlet tube should be colder than the inlet tube (expansion of the
> gas)
> > (outlet about 5-6 C or 8-10F colder than inlet)
> > Outlet is the big hose to the accumulator, inlet is the hardline from
the
> condenser
> >
> > Both tubes going through the firewall should be cold.
>
> According to my refill kit gauge, the pressure is ok. It's a kit that
> attaches to the low pressure side. I'm afraid of adding more from the
can,
> since that would put me in the "RED" zone..
>
> I suppose I should get a more accurate gauge, huh? ;)
>
> Tim
>
>
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
Diezmon wrote:
> According to my refill kit gauge, the pressure is ok. It's a kit that
> attaches to the low pressure side. I'm afraid of adding more from the can,
> since that would put me in the "RED" zone..
>
> I suppose I should get a more accurate gauge, huh? ;)
FWIW (and I take no responsibility for you blowing out your AC system)
My old Mustang GT had extremely weak air and the same sort of kit showed
the pressure to be good just like yours... Charging it anyway resulted
in nice cold air and no explosions. I did bleed, um I mean... some of
the old pressure _accidentally_ escaped before I stubbornly re-charged
the system.
PROBABLY not what I should have done so take it for what it's worth.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> According to my refill kit gauge, the pressure is ok. It's a kit that
> attaches to the low pressure side. I'm afraid of adding more from the can,
> since that would put me in the "RED" zone..
>
> I suppose I should get a more accurate gauge, huh? ;)
FWIW (and I take no responsibility for you blowing out your AC system)
My old Mustang GT had extremely weak air and the same sort of kit showed
the pressure to be good just like yours... Charging it anyway resulted
in nice cold air and no explosions. I did bleed, um I mean... some of
the old pressure _accidentally_ escaped before I stubbornly re-charged
the system.
PROBABLY not what I should have done so take it for what it's worth.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
Diezmon wrote:
> According to my refill kit gauge, the pressure is ok. It's a kit that
> attaches to the low pressure side. I'm afraid of adding more from the can,
> since that would put me in the "RED" zone..
>
> I suppose I should get a more accurate gauge, huh? ;)
FWIW (and I take no responsibility for you blowing out your AC system)
My old Mustang GT had extremely weak air and the same sort of kit showed
the pressure to be good just like yours... Charging it anyway resulted
in nice cold air and no explosions. I did bleed, um I mean... some of
the old pressure _accidentally_ escaped before I stubbornly re-charged
the system.
PROBABLY not what I should have done so take it for what it's worth.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> According to my refill kit gauge, the pressure is ok. It's a kit that
> attaches to the low pressure side. I'm afraid of adding more from the can,
> since that would put me in the "RED" zone..
>
> I suppose I should get a more accurate gauge, huh? ;)
FWIW (and I take no responsibility for you blowing out your AC system)
My old Mustang GT had extremely weak air and the same sort of kit showed
the pressure to be good just like yours... Charging it anyway resulted
in nice cold air and no explosions. I did bleed, um I mean... some of
the old pressure _accidentally_ escaped before I stubbornly re-charged
the system.
PROBABLY not what I should have done so take it for what it's worth.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
Diezmon wrote:
> According to my refill kit gauge, the pressure is ok. It's a kit that
> attaches to the low pressure side. I'm afraid of adding more from the can,
> since that would put me in the "RED" zone..
>
> I suppose I should get a more accurate gauge, huh? ;)
FWIW (and I take no responsibility for you blowing out your AC system)
My old Mustang GT had extremely weak air and the same sort of kit showed
the pressure to be good just like yours... Charging it anyway resulted
in nice cold air and no explosions. I did bleed, um I mean... some of
the old pressure _accidentally_ escaped before I stubbornly re-charged
the system.
PROBABLY not what I should have done so take it for what it's worth.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> According to my refill kit gauge, the pressure is ok. It's a kit that
> attaches to the low pressure side. I'm afraid of adding more from the can,
> since that would put me in the "RED" zone..
>
> I suppose I should get a more accurate gauge, huh? ;)
FWIW (and I take no responsibility for you blowing out your AC system)
My old Mustang GT had extremely weak air and the same sort of kit showed
the pressure to be good just like yours... Charging it anyway resulted
in nice cold air and no explosions. I did bleed, um I mean... some of
the old pressure _accidentally_ escaped before I stubbornly re-charged
the system.
PROBABLY not what I should have done so take it for what it's worth.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
the main thing you left out was what the gauge set was reading as far as
pressures in the ac system are. do you have one ?? so you can hook it up and
tell us what they are??? knowing what high side and low side pressures are, goes
a long way in telling what is wrong with a ac system and avoids extra work also
include ambaint temp at the time
Diezmon wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air conditioning
> problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to hell
> it's not the evaporator.
>
> So, here's the deal:
>
> -compressor is working normally
> -blower fan is working normally
> -air dampers appear to be working normally
> -tube from compressor to condenser is hot
> -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature warm. ( I
> would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> -airflow inside the cabin is KIND of cool, but definitely not cold.. hard to
> tell if it's just air temp, but it may feel cooler just because of the rapid
> air flow..
> -hot/cold selector seems to be working fine.. definitely HOT air when
> switched to hot.
>
> I took most of the dash off, to see the cables, dampers etc, and to see if
> there's some kind of physical blockage in there.. nothing obvious.
>
> Before I completely take out the heater/ac housing, do these symptoms tell
> you anything concrete about the evaporator?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tim
>
> Yikes ==> http://www.diezfamily.us/coppermine/...s.php?album=34
pressures in the ac system are. do you have one ?? so you can hook it up and
tell us what they are??? knowing what high side and low side pressures are, goes
a long way in telling what is wrong with a ac system and avoids extra work also
include ambaint temp at the time
Diezmon wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air conditioning
> problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to hell
> it's not the evaporator.
>
> So, here's the deal:
>
> -compressor is working normally
> -blower fan is working normally
> -air dampers appear to be working normally
> -tube from compressor to condenser is hot
> -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature warm. ( I
> would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> -airflow inside the cabin is KIND of cool, but definitely not cold.. hard to
> tell if it's just air temp, but it may feel cooler just because of the rapid
> air flow..
> -hot/cold selector seems to be working fine.. definitely HOT air when
> switched to hot.
>
> I took most of the dash off, to see the cables, dampers etc, and to see if
> there's some kind of physical blockage in there.. nothing obvious.
>
> Before I completely take out the heater/ac housing, do these symptoms tell
> you anything concrete about the evaporator?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tim
>
> Yikes ==> http://www.diezfamily.us/coppermine/...s.php?album=34
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
the main thing you left out was what the gauge set was reading as far as
pressures in the ac system are. do you have one ?? so you can hook it up and
tell us what they are??? knowing what high side and low side pressures are, goes
a long way in telling what is wrong with a ac system and avoids extra work also
include ambaint temp at the time
Diezmon wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air conditioning
> problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to hell
> it's not the evaporator.
>
> So, here's the deal:
>
> -compressor is working normally
> -blower fan is working normally
> -air dampers appear to be working normally
> -tube from compressor to condenser is hot
> -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature warm. ( I
> would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> -airflow inside the cabin is KIND of cool, but definitely not cold.. hard to
> tell if it's just air temp, but it may feel cooler just because of the rapid
> air flow..
> -hot/cold selector seems to be working fine.. definitely HOT air when
> switched to hot.
>
> I took most of the dash off, to see the cables, dampers etc, and to see if
> there's some kind of physical blockage in there.. nothing obvious.
>
> Before I completely take out the heater/ac housing, do these symptoms tell
> you anything concrete about the evaporator?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tim
>
> Yikes ==> http://www.diezfamily.us/coppermine/...s.php?album=34
pressures in the ac system are. do you have one ?? so you can hook it up and
tell us what they are??? knowing what high side and low side pressures are, goes
a long way in telling what is wrong with a ac system and avoids extra work also
include ambaint temp at the time
Diezmon wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air conditioning
> problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to hell
> it's not the evaporator.
>
> So, here's the deal:
>
> -compressor is working normally
> -blower fan is working normally
> -air dampers appear to be working normally
> -tube from compressor to condenser is hot
> -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature warm. ( I
> would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> -airflow inside the cabin is KIND of cool, but definitely not cold.. hard to
> tell if it's just air temp, but it may feel cooler just because of the rapid
> air flow..
> -hot/cold selector seems to be working fine.. definitely HOT air when
> switched to hot.
>
> I took most of the dash off, to see the cables, dampers etc, and to see if
> there's some kind of physical blockage in there.. nothing obvious.
>
> Before I completely take out the heater/ac housing, do these symptoms tell
> you anything concrete about the evaporator?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tim
>
> Yikes ==> http://www.diezfamily.us/coppermine/...s.php?album=34
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
the main thing you left out was what the gauge set was reading as far as
pressures in the ac system are. do you have one ?? so you can hook it up and
tell us what they are??? knowing what high side and low side pressures are, goes
a long way in telling what is wrong with a ac system and avoids extra work also
include ambaint temp at the time
Diezmon wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air conditioning
> problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to hell
> it's not the evaporator.
>
> So, here's the deal:
>
> -compressor is working normally
> -blower fan is working normally
> -air dampers appear to be working normally
> -tube from compressor to condenser is hot
> -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature warm. ( I
> would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> -airflow inside the cabin is KIND of cool, but definitely not cold.. hard to
> tell if it's just air temp, but it may feel cooler just because of the rapid
> air flow..
> -hot/cold selector seems to be working fine.. definitely HOT air when
> switched to hot.
>
> I took most of the dash off, to see the cables, dampers etc, and to see if
> there's some kind of physical blockage in there.. nothing obvious.
>
> Before I completely take out the heater/ac housing, do these symptoms tell
> you anything concrete about the evaporator?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tim
>
> Yikes ==> http://www.diezfamily.us/coppermine/...s.php?album=34
pressures in the ac system are. do you have one ?? so you can hook it up and
tell us what they are??? knowing what high side and low side pressures are, goes
a long way in telling what is wrong with a ac system and avoids extra work also
include ambaint temp at the time
Diezmon wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air conditioning
> problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to hell
> it's not the evaporator.
>
> So, here's the deal:
>
> -compressor is working normally
> -blower fan is working normally
> -air dampers appear to be working normally
> -tube from compressor to condenser is hot
> -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature warm. ( I
> would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> -airflow inside the cabin is KIND of cool, but definitely not cold.. hard to
> tell if it's just air temp, but it may feel cooler just because of the rapid
> air flow..
> -hot/cold selector seems to be working fine.. definitely HOT air when
> switched to hot.
>
> I took most of the dash off, to see the cables, dampers etc, and to see if
> there's some kind of physical blockage in there.. nothing obvious.
>
> Before I completely take out the heater/ac housing, do these symptoms tell
> you anything concrete about the evaporator?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tim
>
> Yikes ==> http://www.diezfamily.us/coppermine/...s.php?album=34
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
Many people think that a gauge set is a single low side gauge, connected to
a low side coupler and a can tap. If you have Lady Luck on your side, once
your system stops cooling, the low side pressure will be about ten, but
there will be enough refrigerant to actuate the switch that keeps the
compressor engaged. After a 13 oz. can of refrigerant it will start working
again, with a low side pressure of 25-30. This is hardly scientific, in
that you have little chance of getting the precise amount of refrigerant
that R134a systems like to have. It is even less scientific, than
attempting to charge an R134a system using high and low side gauges.
As another poster points out, if the system "accidentally" discharges
itself, you will now have the opportunity to install the correct amount of
refrigerant.
Earle
"philthy" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
news:448F78CC.17379A94@cac.net...
> the main thing you left out was what the gauge set was reading as far as
> pressures in the ac system are. do you have one ?? so you can hook it up
and
> tell us what they are??? knowing what high side and low side pressures
are, goes
> a long way in telling what is wrong with a ac system and avoids extra work
also
> include ambaint temp at the time
>
> Diezmon wrote:
>
> > Hey all,
> >
> > I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air
conditioning
> > problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to
hell
> > it's not the evaporator.
> >
> > So, here's the deal:
> >
> > -compressor is working normally
> > -blower fan is working normally
> > -air dampers appear to be working normally
> > -tube from compressor to condenser is hot
> > -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> > -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature warm.
( I
> > would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> > probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> > -airflow inside the cabin is KIND of cool, but definitely not cold..
hard to
> > tell if it's just air temp, but it may feel cooler just because of the
rapid
> > air flow..
> > -hot/cold selector seems to be working fine.. definitely HOT air when
> > switched to hot.
> >
> > I took most of the dash off, to see the cables, dampers etc, and to see
if
> > there's some kind of physical blockage in there.. nothing obvious.
> >
> > Before I completely take out the heater/ac housing, do these symptoms
tell
> > you anything concrete about the evaporator?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > Yikes ==> http://www.diezfamily.us/coppermine/...s.php?album=34
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
a low side coupler and a can tap. If you have Lady Luck on your side, once
your system stops cooling, the low side pressure will be about ten, but
there will be enough refrigerant to actuate the switch that keeps the
compressor engaged. After a 13 oz. can of refrigerant it will start working
again, with a low side pressure of 25-30. This is hardly scientific, in
that you have little chance of getting the precise amount of refrigerant
that R134a systems like to have. It is even less scientific, than
attempting to charge an R134a system using high and low side gauges.
As another poster points out, if the system "accidentally" discharges
itself, you will now have the opportunity to install the correct amount of
refrigerant.
Earle
"philthy" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
news:448F78CC.17379A94@cac.net...
> the main thing you left out was what the gauge set was reading as far as
> pressures in the ac system are. do you have one ?? so you can hook it up
and
> tell us what they are??? knowing what high side and low side pressures
are, goes
> a long way in telling what is wrong with a ac system and avoids extra work
also
> include ambaint temp at the time
>
> Diezmon wrote:
>
> > Hey all,
> >
> > I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air
conditioning
> > problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to
hell
> > it's not the evaporator.
> >
> > So, here's the deal:
> >
> > -compressor is working normally
> > -blower fan is working normally
> > -air dampers appear to be working normally
> > -tube from compressor to condenser is hot
> > -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> > -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature warm.
( I
> > would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> > probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> > -airflow inside the cabin is KIND of cool, but definitely not cold..
hard to
> > tell if it's just air temp, but it may feel cooler just because of the
rapid
> > air flow..
> > -hot/cold selector seems to be working fine.. definitely HOT air when
> > switched to hot.
> >
> > I took most of the dash off, to see the cables, dampers etc, and to see
if
> > there's some kind of physical blockage in there.. nothing obvious.
> >
> > Before I completely take out the heater/ac housing, do these symptoms
tell
> > you anything concrete about the evaporator?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > Yikes ==> http://www.diezfamily.us/coppermine/...s.php?album=34
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Yup, another '98 TJ with no A\C
Many people think that a gauge set is a single low side gauge, connected to
a low side coupler and a can tap. If you have Lady Luck on your side, once
your system stops cooling, the low side pressure will be about ten, but
there will be enough refrigerant to actuate the switch that keeps the
compressor engaged. After a 13 oz. can of refrigerant it will start working
again, with a low side pressure of 25-30. This is hardly scientific, in
that you have little chance of getting the precise amount of refrigerant
that R134a systems like to have. It is even less scientific, than
attempting to charge an R134a system using high and low side gauges.
As another poster points out, if the system "accidentally" discharges
itself, you will now have the opportunity to install the correct amount of
refrigerant.
Earle
"philthy" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
news:448F78CC.17379A94@cac.net...
> the main thing you left out was what the gauge set was reading as far as
> pressures in the ac system are. do you have one ?? so you can hook it up
and
> tell us what they are??? knowing what high side and low side pressures
are, goes
> a long way in telling what is wrong with a ac system and avoids extra work
also
> include ambaint temp at the time
>
> Diezmon wrote:
>
> > Hey all,
> >
> > I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air
conditioning
> > problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to
hell
> > it's not the evaporator.
> >
> > So, here's the deal:
> >
> > -compressor is working normally
> > -blower fan is working normally
> > -air dampers appear to be working normally
> > -tube from compressor to condenser is hot
> > -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> > -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature warm.
( I
> > would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> > probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> > -airflow inside the cabin is KIND of cool, but definitely not cold..
hard to
> > tell if it's just air temp, but it may feel cooler just because of the
rapid
> > air flow..
> > -hot/cold selector seems to be working fine.. definitely HOT air when
> > switched to hot.
> >
> > I took most of the dash off, to see the cables, dampers etc, and to see
if
> > there's some kind of physical blockage in there.. nothing obvious.
> >
> > Before I completely take out the heater/ac housing, do these symptoms
tell
> > you anything concrete about the evaporator?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > Yikes ==> http://www.diezfamily.us/coppermine/...s.php?album=34
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
a low side coupler and a can tap. If you have Lady Luck on your side, once
your system stops cooling, the low side pressure will be about ten, but
there will be enough refrigerant to actuate the switch that keeps the
compressor engaged. After a 13 oz. can of refrigerant it will start working
again, with a low side pressure of 25-30. This is hardly scientific, in
that you have little chance of getting the precise amount of refrigerant
that R134a systems like to have. It is even less scientific, than
attempting to charge an R134a system using high and low side gauges.
As another poster points out, if the system "accidentally" discharges
itself, you will now have the opportunity to install the correct amount of
refrigerant.
Earle
"philthy" <dbrider@cac.net> wrote in message
news:448F78CC.17379A94@cac.net...
> the main thing you left out was what the gauge set was reading as far as
> pressures in the ac system are. do you have one ?? so you can hook it up
and
> tell us what they are??? knowing what high side and low side pressures
are, goes
> a long way in telling what is wrong with a ac system and avoids extra work
also
> include ambaint temp at the time
>
> Diezmon wrote:
>
> > Hey all,
> >
> > I've been reading the MANY posts and sites about TJ's and air
conditioning
> > problems, but didn't find a definite answer to my symptoms. I hope to
hell
> > it's not the evaporator.
> >
> > So, here's the deal:
> >
> > -compressor is working normally
> > -blower fan is working normally
> > -air dampers appear to be working normally
> > -tube from compressor to condenser is hot
> > -tube from condenser into firewall/evaporator is nice and cold
> > -tube OUT from firewall/evaporator is warm.. like air temperature warm.
( I
> > would assume this would be fairly cool as well, since the evaporator
> > probably isn't 100% efficient? )
> > -airflow inside the cabin is KIND of cool, but definitely not cold..
hard to
> > tell if it's just air temp, but it may feel cooler just because of the
rapid
> > air flow..
> > -hot/cold selector seems to be working fine.. definitely HOT air when
> > switched to hot.
> >
> > I took most of the dash off, to see the cables, dampers etc, and to see
if
> > there's some kind of physical blockage in there.. nothing obvious.
> >
> > Before I completely take out the heater/ac housing, do these symptoms
tell
> > you anything concrete about the evaporator?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > Yikes ==> http://www.diezfamily.us/coppermine/...s.php?album=34
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com