Peter Parker

In article <431DC714.8F8DA8CC@sympatico.ca>,
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Peter Parker wrote:
>>
>> In article <431cbb5c_2@nntp2.nac.net>, Peter Parker <nospam@zero.com> wrote:
>> >I decided to take the Jeep out for a spin yesterday and found the return
>> >line gas line rubber hose that comes from the fuel pump and clamps on
>> >the hardline by the left rear tire. Is there anyone with experience on
>> >replacing this without having to drop the fuel tank? How about just
>> >dropping it part way or some other trick replacing this rubber hose.
>> >
>> >TIA!
>> >
>> >--
>> >Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
>>
>> Oh I forgot to mention that it's a 1994 with a 20 gallon tank. The fuel
>> pump sender is bolted in with the 20 gal tank.
>>
>> I looked and couldn't find any short cuts.
>>
>> TIA again!
>>
>
>The return line would be going 'to' the tank I believe. You 'can' cut
>out the leak and install a piece of metal gas line with a couple hose
>clamps in place of the leak. Or cut the line after the leak, put the
>metal tube with clamps in and add a new rubber line to the hard line on
>the frame. The return metal line is 5/16" I believe.

On the YJ the fuel supply and return hose go to the pump. The YJ has
vent hoses that T into two valves on each side of pump on the tank. I think
that these supposed to be shutoff valves or something if the Jeep turns
over. The XJ I believe has the hoses going into the tank directly as
you mentioned.

>This will usually only work for the short term because the whole line
>usually rots out all together unless the line got dinged which cause the
>leak, then no problem with a patch.

I can't use this method since the leak is at the bend where it comes out
of the tank and connects to the fuel return hardline.

>If you 'have' to drop the tank to do the whole line, I recommend you
>start soaking all the nuts and bolts many times for a few days before
>starting the job. I also would change all the rubber lines while it was
>open.

Good recommendation. I am a little worried about that since this might
become a huge job if they are hard to remove.

>I am in the rust belt and in our case, sometimes it is better to
>'carefully' cut an access plate in the floor to get at things. That
>depends on the rust level. I had no issues removing my 20 gallon
>tank..... It decided to part company with my CJ7 all by it's self as I
>was running 'baja' style across an old air strip a couple years ago.
>;-) Had to cut all the remaining bolts out.

Well that "ain't no" fun. :-)

You can Doug's thoughts confirm I need to drop the tank. Thanks Mike!


>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's


--
Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

Terry Jeffrey

Dropping the tank is not that big of a task, really. No need to even drain
it first if you take your time and use a hydrolic jack/flat piece of wood to
slowly lower it and keep it level on the way down. You don't even have to
remove the stock skid plate. The exhaust pipe is a little in the way on the
way down, though, which may throw the tank a little off balance. Just work
slowly and you'll be Ok. Like Mike said, the toughest part of the job will
most likely be loosening (without breaking) the rusted old bolts that hold
it to the frame. There are 4 up front and two in the back I believe on my
92YJ. I've replaced two fuel pumps on it over the years and just recently
had the tank off in order to fabricate a new rear exhaust hanger.

Good luck and good Jeepin,
Terry



"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:43243042_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> In article <431DC714.8F8DA8CC@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>Peter Parker wrote:
>>>
>>> In article <431cbb5c_2@nntp2.nac.net>, Peter Parker <nospam@zero.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >I decided to take the Jeep out for a spin yesterday and found the
>>> >return
>>> >line gas line rubber hose that comes from the fuel pump and clamps on
>>> >the hardline by the left rear tire. Is there anyone with experience on
>>> >replacing this without having to drop the fuel tank? How about just
>>> >dropping it part way or some other trick replacing this rubber hose.
>>> >
>>> >TIA!
>>> >
>>> >--
>>> >Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
>>>
>>> Oh I forgot to mention that it's a 1994 with a 20 gallon tank. The fuel
>>> pump sender is bolted in with the 20 gal tank.
>>>
>>> I looked and couldn't find any short cuts.
>>>
>>> TIA again!
>>>
>>
>>The return line would be going 'to' the tank I believe. You 'can' cut
>>out the leak and install a piece of metal gas line with a couple hose
>>clamps in place of the leak. Or cut the line after the leak, put the
>>metal tube with clamps in and add a new rubber line to the hard line on
>>the frame. The return metal line is 5/16" I believe.
>
> On the YJ the fuel supply and return hose go to the pump. The YJ has
> vent hoses that T into two valves on each side of pump on the tank. I
> think
> that these supposed to be shutoff valves or something if the Jeep turns
> over. The XJ I believe has the hoses going into the tank directly as
> you mentioned.
>
>>This will usually only work for the short term because the whole line
>>usually rots out all together unless the line got dinged which cause the
>>leak, then no problem with a patch.
>
> I can't use this method since the leak is at the bend where it comes out
> of the tank and connects to the fuel return hardline.
>
>>If you 'have' to drop the tank to do the whole line, I recommend you
>>start soaking all the nuts and bolts many times for a few days before
>>starting the job. I also would change all the rubber lines while it was
>>open.
>
> Good recommendation. I am a little worried about that since this might
> become a huge job if they are hard to remove.
>
>>I am in the rust belt and in our case, sometimes it is better to
>>'carefully' cut an access plate in the floor to get at things. That
>>depends on the rust level. I had no issues removing my 20 gallon
>>tank..... It decided to part company with my CJ7 all by it's self as I
>>was running 'baja' style across an old air strip a couple years ago.
>>;-) Had to cut all the remaining bolts out.
>
> Well that "ain't no" fun. :-)
>
> You can Doug's thoughts confirm I need to drop the tank. Thanks Mike!
>
>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

Terry Jeffrey

Dropping the tank is not that big of a task, really. No need to even drain
it first if you take your time and use a hydrolic jack/flat piece of wood to
slowly lower it and keep it level on the way down. You don't even have to
remove the stock skid plate. The exhaust pipe is a little in the way on the
way down, though, which may throw the tank a little off balance. Just work
slowly and you'll be Ok. Like Mike said, the toughest part of the job will
most likely be loosening (without breaking) the rusted old bolts that hold
it to the frame. There are 4 up front and two in the back I believe on my
92YJ. I've replaced two fuel pumps on it over the years and just recently
had the tank off in order to fabricate a new rear exhaust hanger.

Good luck and good Jeepin,
Terry



"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:43243042_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> In article <431DC714.8F8DA8CC@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>Peter Parker wrote:
>>>
>>> In article <431cbb5c_2@nntp2.nac.net>, Peter Parker <nospam@zero.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >I decided to take the Jeep out for a spin yesterday and found the
>>> >return
>>> >line gas line rubber hose that comes from the fuel pump and clamps on
>>> >the hardline by the left rear tire. Is there anyone with experience on
>>> >replacing this without having to drop the fuel tank? How about just
>>> >dropping it part way or some other trick replacing this rubber hose.
>>> >
>>> >TIA!
>>> >
>>> >--
>>> >Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
>>>
>>> Oh I forgot to mention that it's a 1994 with a 20 gallon tank. The fuel
>>> pump sender is bolted in with the 20 gal tank.
>>>
>>> I looked and couldn't find any short cuts.
>>>
>>> TIA again!
>>>
>>
>>The return line would be going 'to' the tank I believe. You 'can' cut
>>out the leak and install a piece of metal gas line with a couple hose
>>clamps in place of the leak. Or cut the line after the leak, put the
>>metal tube with clamps in and add a new rubber line to the hard line on
>>the frame. The return metal line is 5/16" I believe.
>
> On the YJ the fuel supply and return hose go to the pump. The YJ has
> vent hoses that T into two valves on each side of pump on the tank. I
> think
> that these supposed to be shutoff valves or something if the Jeep turns
> over. The XJ I believe has the hoses going into the tank directly as
> you mentioned.
>
>>This will usually only work for the short term because the whole line
>>usually rots out all together unless the line got dinged which cause the
>>leak, then no problem with a patch.
>
> I can't use this method since the leak is at the bend where it comes out
> of the tank and connects to the fuel return hardline.
>
>>If you 'have' to drop the tank to do the whole line, I recommend you
>>start soaking all the nuts and bolts many times for a few days before
>>starting the job. I also would change all the rubber lines while it was
>>open.
>
> Good recommendation. I am a little worried about that since this might
> become a huge job if they are hard to remove.
>
>>I am in the rust belt and in our case, sometimes it is better to
>>'carefully' cut an access plate in the floor to get at things. That
>>depends on the rust level. I had no issues removing my 20 gallon
>>tank..... It decided to part company with my CJ7 all by it's self as I
>>was running 'baja' style across an old air strip a couple years ago.
>>;-) Had to cut all the remaining bolts out.
>
> Well that "ain't no" fun. :-)
>
> You can Doug's thoughts confirm I need to drop the tank. Thanks Mike!
>
>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

Terry Jeffrey

Dropping the tank is not that big of a task, really. No need to even drain
it first if you take your time and use a hydrolic jack/flat piece of wood to
slowly lower it and keep it level on the way down. You don't even have to
remove the stock skid plate. The exhaust pipe is a little in the way on the
way down, though, which may throw the tank a little off balance. Just work
slowly and you'll be Ok. Like Mike said, the toughest part of the job will
most likely be loosening (without breaking) the rusted old bolts that hold
it to the frame. There are 4 up front and two in the back I believe on my
92YJ. I've replaced two fuel pumps on it over the years and just recently
had the tank off in order to fabricate a new rear exhaust hanger.

Good luck and good Jeepin,
Terry



"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:43243042_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> In article <431DC714.8F8DA8CC@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>Peter Parker wrote:
>>>
>>> In article <431cbb5c_2@nntp2.nac.net>, Peter Parker <nospam@zero.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >I decided to take the Jeep out for a spin yesterday and found the
>>> >return
>>> >line gas line rubber hose that comes from the fuel pump and clamps on
>>> >the hardline by the left rear tire. Is there anyone with experience on
>>> >replacing this without having to drop the fuel tank? How about just
>>> >dropping it part way or some other trick replacing this rubber hose.
>>> >
>>> >TIA!
>>> >
>>> >--
>>> >Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
>>>
>>> Oh I forgot to mention that it's a 1994 with a 20 gallon tank. The fuel
>>> pump sender is bolted in with the 20 gal tank.
>>>
>>> I looked and couldn't find any short cuts.
>>>
>>> TIA again!
>>>
>>
>>The return line would be going 'to' the tank I believe. You 'can' cut
>>out the leak and install a piece of metal gas line with a couple hose
>>clamps in place of the leak. Or cut the line after the leak, put the
>>metal tube with clamps in and add a new rubber line to the hard line on
>>the frame. The return metal line is 5/16" I believe.
>
> On the YJ the fuel supply and return hose go to the pump. The YJ has
> vent hoses that T into two valves on each side of pump on the tank. I
> think
> that these supposed to be shutoff valves or something if the Jeep turns
> over. The XJ I believe has the hoses going into the tank directly as
> you mentioned.
>
>>This will usually only work for the short term because the whole line
>>usually rots out all together unless the line got dinged which cause the
>>leak, then no problem with a patch.
>
> I can't use this method since the leak is at the bend where it comes out
> of the tank and connects to the fuel return hardline.
>
>>If you 'have' to drop the tank to do the whole line, I recommend you
>>start soaking all the nuts and bolts many times for a few days before
>>starting the job. I also would change all the rubber lines while it was
>>open.
>
> Good recommendation. I am a little worried about that since this might
> become a huge job if they are hard to remove.
>
>>I am in the rust belt and in our case, sometimes it is better to
>>'carefully' cut an access plate in the floor to get at things. That
>>depends on the rust level. I had no issues removing my 20 gallon
>>tank..... It decided to part company with my CJ7 all by it's self as I
>>was running 'baja' style across an old air strip a couple years ago.
>>;-) Had to cut all the remaining bolts out.
>
> Well that "ain't no" fun. :-)
>
> You can Doug's thoughts confirm I need to drop the tank. Thanks Mike!
>
>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

Terry Jeffrey

Dropping the tank is not that big of a task, really. No need to even drain
it first if you take your time and use a hydrolic jack/flat piece of wood to
slowly lower it and keep it level on the way down. You don't even have to
remove the stock skid plate. The exhaust pipe is a little in the way on the
way down, though, which may throw the tank a little off balance. Just work
slowly and you'll be Ok. Like Mike said, the toughest part of the job will
most likely be loosening (without breaking) the rusted old bolts that hold
it to the frame. There are 4 up front and two in the back I believe on my
92YJ. I've replaced two fuel pumps on it over the years and just recently
had the tank off in order to fabricate a new rear exhaust hanger.

Good luck and good Jeepin,
Terry



"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
news:43243042_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> In article <431DC714.8F8DA8CC@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>Peter Parker wrote:
>>>
>>> In article <431cbb5c_2@nntp2.nac.net>, Peter Parker <nospam@zero.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> >I decided to take the Jeep out for a spin yesterday and found the
>>> >return
>>> >line gas line rubber hose that comes from the fuel pump and clamps on
>>> >the hardline by the left rear tire. Is there anyone with experience on
>>> >replacing this without having to drop the fuel tank? How about just
>>> >dropping it part way or some other trick replacing this rubber hose.
>>> >
>>> >TIA!
>>> >
>>> >--
>>> >Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
>>>
>>> Oh I forgot to mention that it's a 1994 with a 20 gallon tank. The fuel
>>> pump sender is bolted in with the 20 gal tank.
>>>
>>> I looked and couldn't find any short cuts.
>>>
>>> TIA again!
>>>
>>
>>The return line would be going 'to' the tank I believe. You 'can' cut
>>out the leak and install a piece of metal gas line with a couple hose
>>clamps in place of the leak. Or cut the line after the leak, put the
>>metal tube with clamps in and add a new rubber line to the hard line on
>>the frame. The return metal line is 5/16" I believe.
>
> On the YJ the fuel supply and return hose go to the pump. The YJ has
> vent hoses that T into two valves on each side of pump on the tank. I
> think
> that these supposed to be shutoff valves or something if the Jeep turns
> over. The XJ I believe has the hoses going into the tank directly as
> you mentioned.
>
>>This will usually only work for the short term because the whole line
>>usually rots out all together unless the line got dinged which cause the
>>leak, then no problem with a patch.
>
> I can't use this method since the leak is at the bend where it comes out
> of the tank and connects to the fuel return hardline.
>
>>If you 'have' to drop the tank to do the whole line, I recommend you
>>start soaking all the nuts and bolts many times for a few days before
>>starting the job. I also would change all the rubber lines while it was
>>open.
>
> Good recommendation. I am a little worried about that since this might
> become a huge job if they are hard to remove.
>
>>I am in the rust belt and in our case, sometimes it is better to
>>'carefully' cut an access plate in the floor to get at things. That
>>depends on the rust level. I had no issues removing my 20 gallon
>>tank..... It decided to part company with my CJ7 all by it's self as I
>>was running 'baja' style across an old air strip a couple years ago.
>>;-) Had to cut all the remaining bolts out.
>
> Well that "ain't no" fun. :-)
>
> You can Doug's thoughts confirm I need to drop the tank. Thanks Mike!
>
>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

Mike Romain

If the bolts are rotted, mine didn't even have a head vise grips would
grab onto left, you can hose the top of the tank with water to remove
any gas fumes (only fumes explode, so a full tank of gas is the safest
to be cutting or welding around) and carefully use a dremil tool with a
fiberglass cut off wheel or an angle grinder to cut an access plate out
from the top. It isn't that hard to do. I know a jig saw or sawsall
will work too, but you really have to watch how deep you cut. I have
seen/done dozens of pump access plates cut out over the years.

You are right about the vent valves being one way, when I had to put my
tank on the back seat on it's side with a gas line going into the torn
corner, they held gas in just fine.

Mike

Peter Parker wrote:
>
> In article <431DC714.8F8DA8CC@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >Peter Parker wrote:
> >>
> >> In article <431cbb5c_2@nntp2.nac.net>, Peter Parker <nospam@zero.com> wrote:
> >> >I decided to take the Jeep out for a spin yesterday and found the return
> >> >line gas line rubber hose that comes from the fuel pump and clamps on
> >> >the hardline by the left rear tire. Is there anyone with experience on
> >> >replacing this without having to drop the fuel tank? How about just
> >> >dropping it part way or some other trick replacing this rubber hose.
> >> >
> >> >TIA!
> >> >
> >> >--
> >> >Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
> >>
> >> Oh I forgot to mention that it's a 1994 with a 20 gallon tank. The fuel
> >> pump sender is bolted in with the 20 gal tank.
> >>
> >> I looked and couldn't find any short cuts.
> >>
> >> TIA again!
> >>
> >
> >The return line would be going 'to' the tank I believe. You 'can' cut
> >out the leak and install a piece of metal gas line with a couple hose
> >clamps in place of the leak. Or cut the line after the leak, put the
> >metal tube with clamps in and add a new rubber line to the hard line on
> >the frame. The return metal line is 5/16" I believe.
>
> On the YJ the fuel supply and return hose go to the pump. The YJ has
> vent hoses that T into two valves on each side of pump on the tank. I think
> that these supposed to be shutoff valves or something if the Jeep turns
> over. The XJ I believe has the hoses going into the tank directly as
> you mentioned.
>
> >This will usually only work for the short term because the whole line
> >usually rots out all together unless the line got dinged which cause the
> >leak, then no problem with a patch.
>
> I can't use this method since the leak is at the bend where it comes out
> of the tank and connects to the fuel return hardline.
>
> >If you 'have' to drop the tank to do the whole line, I recommend you
> >start soaking all the nuts and bolts many times for a few days before
> >starting the job. I also would change all the rubber lines while it was
> >open.
>
> Good recommendation. I am a little worried about that since this might
> become a huge job if they are hard to remove.
>
> >I am in the rust belt and in our case, sometimes it is better to
> >'carefully' cut an access plate in the floor to get at things. That
> >depends on the rust level. I had no issues removing my 20 gallon
> >tank..... It decided to part company with my CJ7 all by it's self as I
> >was running 'baja' style across an old air strip a couple years ago.
> >;-) Had to cut all the remaining bolts out.
>
> Well that "ain't no" fun. :-)
>
> You can Doug's thoughts confirm I need to drop the tank. Thanks Mike!
>
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

Mike Romain

If the bolts are rotted, mine didn't even have a head vise grips would
grab onto left, you can hose the top of the tank with water to remove
any gas fumes (only fumes explode, so a full tank of gas is the safest
to be cutting or welding around) and carefully use a dremil tool with a
fiberglass cut off wheel or an angle grinder to cut an access plate out
from the top. It isn't that hard to do. I know a jig saw or sawsall
will work too, but you really have to watch how deep you cut. I have
seen/done dozens of pump access plates cut out over the years.

You are right about the vent valves being one way, when I had to put my
tank on the back seat on it's side with a gas line going into the torn
corner, they held gas in just fine.

Mike

Peter Parker wrote:
>
> In article <431DC714.8F8DA8CC@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >Peter Parker wrote:
> >>
> >> In article <431cbb5c_2@nntp2.nac.net>, Peter Parker <nospam@zero.com> wrote:
> >> >I decided to take the Jeep out for a spin yesterday and found the return
> >> >line gas line rubber hose that comes from the fuel pump and clamps on
> >> >the hardline by the left rear tire. Is there anyone with experience on
> >> >replacing this without having to drop the fuel tank? How about just
> >> >dropping it part way or some other trick replacing this rubber hose.
> >> >
> >> >TIA!
> >> >
> >> >--
> >> >Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
> >>
> >> Oh I forgot to mention that it's a 1994 with a 20 gallon tank. The fuel
> >> pump sender is bolted in with the 20 gal tank.
> >>
> >> I looked and couldn't find any short cuts.
> >>
> >> TIA again!
> >>
> >
> >The return line would be going 'to' the tank I believe. You 'can' cut
> >out the leak and install a piece of metal gas line with a couple hose
> >clamps in place of the leak. Or cut the line after the leak, put the
> >metal tube with clamps in and add a new rubber line to the hard line on
> >the frame. The return metal line is 5/16" I believe.
>
> On the YJ the fuel supply and return hose go to the pump. The YJ has
> vent hoses that T into two valves on each side of pump on the tank. I think
> that these supposed to be shutoff valves or something if the Jeep turns
> over. The XJ I believe has the hoses going into the tank directly as
> you mentioned.
>
> >This will usually only work for the short term because the whole line
> >usually rots out all together unless the line got dinged which cause the
> >leak, then no problem with a patch.
>
> I can't use this method since the leak is at the bend where it comes out
> of the tank and connects to the fuel return hardline.
>
> >If you 'have' to drop the tank to do the whole line, I recommend you
> >start soaking all the nuts and bolts many times for a few days before
> >starting the job. I also would change all the rubber lines while it was
> >open.
>
> Good recommendation. I am a little worried about that since this might
> become a huge job if they are hard to remove.
>
> >I am in the rust belt and in our case, sometimes it is better to
> >'carefully' cut an access plate in the floor to get at things. That
> >depends on the rust level. I had no issues removing my 20 gallon
> >tank..... It decided to part company with my CJ7 all by it's self as I
> >was running 'baja' style across an old air strip a couple years ago.
> >;-) Had to cut all the remaining bolts out.
>
> Well that "ain't no" fun. :-)
>
> You can Doug's thoughts confirm I need to drop the tank. Thanks Mike!
>
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

Mike Romain

If the bolts are rotted, mine didn't even have a head vise grips would
grab onto left, you can hose the top of the tank with water to remove
any gas fumes (only fumes explode, so a full tank of gas is the safest
to be cutting or welding around) and carefully use a dremil tool with a
fiberglass cut off wheel or an angle grinder to cut an access plate out
from the top. It isn't that hard to do. I know a jig saw or sawsall
will work too, but you really have to watch how deep you cut. I have
seen/done dozens of pump access plates cut out over the years.

You are right about the vent valves being one way, when I had to put my
tank on the back seat on it's side with a gas line going into the torn
corner, they held gas in just fine.

Mike

Peter Parker wrote:
>
> In article <431DC714.8F8DA8CC@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >Peter Parker wrote:
> >>
> >> In article <431cbb5c_2@nntp2.nac.net>, Peter Parker <nospam@zero.com> wrote:
> >> >I decided to take the Jeep out for a spin yesterday and found the return
> >> >line gas line rubber hose that comes from the fuel pump and clamps on
> >> >the hardline by the left rear tire. Is there anyone with experience on
> >> >replacing this without having to drop the fuel tank? How about just
> >> >dropping it part way or some other trick replacing this rubber hose.
> >> >
> >> >TIA!
> >> >
> >> >--
> >> >Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
> >>
> >> Oh I forgot to mention that it's a 1994 with a 20 gallon tank. The fuel
> >> pump sender is bolted in with the 20 gal tank.
> >>
> >> I looked and couldn't find any short cuts.
> >>
> >> TIA again!
> >>
> >
> >The return line would be going 'to' the tank I believe. You 'can' cut
> >out the leak and install a piece of metal gas line with a couple hose
> >clamps in place of the leak. Or cut the line after the leak, put the
> >metal tube with clamps in and add a new rubber line to the hard line on
> >the frame. The return metal line is 5/16" I believe.
>
> On the YJ the fuel supply and return hose go to the pump. The YJ has
> vent hoses that T into two valves on each side of pump on the tank. I think
> that these supposed to be shutoff valves or something if the Jeep turns
> over. The XJ I believe has the hoses going into the tank directly as
> you mentioned.
>
> >This will usually only work for the short term because the whole line
> >usually rots out all together unless the line got dinged which cause the
> >leak, then no problem with a patch.
>
> I can't use this method since the leak is at the bend where it comes out
> of the tank and connects to the fuel return hardline.
>
> >If you 'have' to drop the tank to do the whole line, I recommend you
> >start soaking all the nuts and bolts many times for a few days before
> >starting the job. I also would change all the rubber lines while it was
> >open.
>
> Good recommendation. I am a little worried about that since this might
> become a huge job if they are hard to remove.
>
> >I am in the rust belt and in our case, sometimes it is better to
> >'carefully' cut an access plate in the floor to get at things. That
> >depends on the rust level. I had no issues removing my 20 gallon
> >tank..... It decided to part company with my CJ7 all by it's self as I
> >was running 'baja' style across an old air strip a couple years ago.
> >;-) Had to cut all the remaining bolts out.
>
> Well that "ain't no" fun. :-)
>
> You can Doug's thoughts confirm I need to drop the tank. Thanks Mike!
>
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

Mike Romain

If the bolts are rotted, mine didn't even have a head vise grips would
grab onto left, you can hose the top of the tank with water to remove
any gas fumes (only fumes explode, so a full tank of gas is the safest
to be cutting or welding around) and carefully use a dremil tool with a
fiberglass cut off wheel or an angle grinder to cut an access plate out
from the top. It isn't that hard to do. I know a jig saw or sawsall
will work too, but you really have to watch how deep you cut. I have
seen/done dozens of pump access plates cut out over the years.

You are right about the vent valves being one way, when I had to put my
tank on the back seat on it's side with a gas line going into the torn
corner, they held gas in just fine.

Mike

Peter Parker wrote:
>
> In article <431DC714.8F8DA8CC@sympatico.ca>,
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >Peter Parker wrote:
> >>
> >> In article <431cbb5c_2@nntp2.nac.net>, Peter Parker <nospam@zero.com> wrote:
> >> >I decided to take the Jeep out for a spin yesterday and found the return
> >> >line gas line rubber hose that comes from the fuel pump and clamps on
> >> >the hardline by the left rear tire. Is there anyone with experience on
> >> >replacing this without having to drop the fuel tank? How about just
> >> >dropping it part way or some other trick replacing this rubber hose.
> >> >
> >> >TIA!
> >> >
> >> >--
> >> >Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
> >>
> >> Oh I forgot to mention that it's a 1994 with a 20 gallon tank. The fuel
> >> pump sender is bolted in with the 20 gal tank.
> >>
> >> I looked and couldn't find any short cuts.
> >>
> >> TIA again!
> >>
> >
> >The return line would be going 'to' the tank I believe. You 'can' cut
> >out the leak and install a piece of metal gas line with a couple hose
> >clamps in place of the leak. Or cut the line after the leak, put the
> >metal tube with clamps in and add a new rubber line to the hard line on
> >the frame. The return metal line is 5/16" I believe.
>
> On the YJ the fuel supply and return hose go to the pump. The YJ has
> vent hoses that T into two valves on each side of pump on the tank. I think
> that these supposed to be shutoff valves or something if the Jeep turns
> over. The XJ I believe has the hoses going into the tank directly as
> you mentioned.
>
> >This will usually only work for the short term because the whole line
> >usually rots out all together unless the line got dinged which cause the
> >leak, then no problem with a patch.
>
> I can't use this method since the leak is at the bend where it comes out
> of the tank and connects to the fuel return hardline.
>
> >If you 'have' to drop the tank to do the whole line, I recommend you
> >start soaking all the nuts and bolts many times for a few days before
> >starting the job. I also would change all the rubber lines while it was
> >open.
>
> Good recommendation. I am a little worried about that since this might
> become a huge job if they are hard to remove.
>
> >I am in the rust belt and in our case, sometimes it is better to
> >'carefully' cut an access plate in the floor to get at things. That
> >depends on the rust level. I had no issues removing my 20 gallon
> >tank..... It decided to part company with my CJ7 all by it's self as I
> >was running 'baja' style across an old air strip a couple years ago.
> >;-) Had to cut all the remaining bolts out.
>
> Well that "ain't no" fun. :-)
>
> You can Doug's thoughts confirm I need to drop the tank. Thanks Mike!
>
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...

SoK66

>> Is there anyone with experience on replacing this without having to drop
>> the fuel tank? How about just dropping it part way or some other trick
>> replacing this rubber hose.Oh I forgot to mention that it's a 1994 with a
>> 20 gallon tank. The fuel pump sender is bolted in with the 20 gal tank.>>

Yeah, there's really no way to do this without pulling the tank and
replacing all the lines at the same time. I just did this while installing a
Kilby fuel tank skid on my '94. Drain the tank completely and pull the tank
& skid assembly. It's really not very difficult, but you need to be VERY
careful to keep all hose connections capped & plugged, the fill & vent line
hoses and nipples on the tank plugged, etc. It's clumsy, but if the tank is
empty it's not all that heavy. Put a floor jack uder the center of the tank
unit, then lower it down after removing the front bolts & rear nuts holding
the skid to the frame. You have to lift it up on thr right side, drop the
fill & vent nipples under the left-side spring, then lower it down & to the
left. The tank is secured to the skid plate with two metal straps that
unless you're changing the skid don't need to be removed. There are three
hoses in an array coming from the senfing unit/pump assembly, and the vent
points on the top of the tank. I'd use this opportunity to replace all of
them. Since the EFI system is fairly low pressure, they just used standard
fuel & vacuum lines and over the counter - type hose clamps.