I think my description was not very good.
Actually switching the ground to the frame eliminates the rats nest you
envision.
Let me try this again,
one fused hot wire is common to all three of the bulbs center posts and
is wired in parallel instead of series so they do not operate as a
fuse. imagine a ground wire that is connected from one door post switch
to the the other door post switch that interconnects both under dash
lights grounding wires. IF you connect this to ground by opening the
drivers door (this is what the door switch does) then both lights come
on. If you close the drivers door and open the passenger door then
current reverses direction and now flows to the passengers door switch
and to ground. I just added a third door switch so to speak when I
installed the overhead light. I only had to have three wires from the
dome light to the underside of the dash to make it all work. two are
ground wires, and one is a hot wire.
one ground connects to the underdash lights ground wire. This ground
wire is connected to the dome light directly and causes the dome light
to come on when the underdash lights become grounded from one of the
doors being opened. The other ground connects to the frame of the
vehicle under the dash continues up to the dome light switch to on one
side and to the dome lights ground wire on the other side of the
switch. When this switch is activated a ground path exists from the
frame under the dash up through the switch to the dome light bulb.
Since the underdash lights connect directly to the dome lights ground
wire a path for the electricity now continues backwards down this
ground wire to the underdash lights which makes them illuminate.
Now when the dome lights switch is on a ground path will exist
Thanks for taking the time and being polite.
Offgridman

 

I think my description was not very good.
Actually switching the ground to the frame eliminates the rats nest you
envision.
Let me try this again,
one fused hot wire is common to all three of the bulbs center posts and
is wired in parallel instead of series so they do not operate as a
fuse. imagine a ground wire that is connected from one door post switch
to the the other door post switch that interconnects both under dash
lights grounding wires. IF you connect this to ground by opening the
drivers door (this is what the door switch does) then both lights come
on. If you close the drivers door and open the passenger door then
current reverses direction and now flows to the passengers door switch
and to ground. I just added a third door switch so to speak when I
installed the overhead light. I only had to have three wires from the
dome light to the underside of the dash to make it all work. two are
ground wires, and one is a hot wire.
one ground connects to the underdash lights ground wire. This ground
wire is connected to the dome light directly and causes the dome light
to come on when the underdash lights become grounded from one of the
doors being opened. The other ground connects to the frame of the
vehicle under the dash continues up to the dome light switch to on one
side and to the dome lights ground wire on the other side of the
switch. When this switch is activated a ground path exists from the
frame under the dash up through the switch to the dome light bulb.
Since the underdash lights connect directly to the dome lights ground
wire a path for the electricity now continues backwards down this
ground wire to the underdash lights which makes them illuminate.
Now when the dome lights switch is on a ground path will exist
Thanks for taking the time and being polite.
Offgridman

 

I think my description was not very good.
Actually switching the ground to the frame eliminates the rats nest you
envision.
Let me try this again,
one fused hot wire is common to all three of the bulbs center posts and
is wired in parallel instead of series so they do not operate as a
fuse. imagine a ground wire that is connected from one door post switch
to the the other door post switch that interconnects both under dash
lights grounding wires. IF you connect this to ground by opening the
drivers door (this is what the door switch does) then both lights come
on. If you close the drivers door and open the passenger door then
current reverses direction and now flows to the passengers door switch
and to ground. I just added a third door switch so to speak when I
installed the overhead light. I only had to have three wires from the
dome light to the underside of the dash to make it all work. two are
ground wires, and one is a hot wire.
one ground connects to the underdash lights ground wire. This ground
wire is connected to the dome light directly and causes the dome light
to come on when the underdash lights become grounded from one of the
doors being opened. The other ground connects to the frame of the
vehicle under the dash continues up to the dome light switch to on one
side and to the dome lights ground wire on the other side of the
switch. When this switch is activated a ground path exists from the
frame under the dash up through the switch to the dome light bulb.
Since the underdash lights connect directly to the dome lights ground
wire a path for the electricity now continues backwards down this
ground wire to the underdash lights which makes them illuminate.
Now when the dome lights switch is on a ground path will exist
Thanks for taking the time and being polite.
Offgridman

 

Gotcha.

I also prefer ground switching. When I ran my Hella Black Magic's I
just had to run one small trigger wire to a micro mini switch on the
dash to ground the relay.

I just got confused with your description.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Offgridman wrote:
>
> I think my description was not very good.
> Actually switching the ground to the frame eliminates the rats nest you
> envision.
> Let me try this again,
> one fused hot wire is common to all three of the bulbs center posts and
> is wired in parallel instead of series so they do not operate as a
> fuse. imagine a ground wire that is connected from one door post switch
> to the the other door post switch that interconnects both under dash
> lights grounding wires. IF you connect this to ground by opening the
> drivers door (this is what the door switch does) then both lights come
> on. If you close the drivers door and open the passenger door then
> current reverses direction and now flows to the passengers door switch
> and to ground. I just added a third door switch so to speak when I
> installed the overhead light. I only had to have three wires from the
> dome light to the underside of the dash to make it all work. two are
> ground wires, and one is a hot wire.
> one ground connects to the underdash lights ground wire. This ground
> wire is connected to the dome light directly and causes the dome light
> to come on when the underdash lights become grounded from one of the
> doors being opened. The other ground connects to the frame of the
> vehicle under the dash continues up to the dome light switch to on one
> side and to the dome lights ground wire on the other side of the
> switch. When this switch is activated a ground path exists from the
> frame under the dash up through the switch to the dome light bulb.
> Since the underdash lights connect directly to the dome lights ground
> wire a path for the electricity now continues backwards down this
> ground wire to the underdash lights which makes them illuminate.
> Now when the dome lights switch is on a ground path will exist
> Thanks for taking the time and being polite.
> Offgridman

 

Gotcha.

I also prefer ground switching. When I ran my Hella Black Magic's I
just had to run one small trigger wire to a micro mini switch on the
dash to ground the relay.

I just got confused with your description.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Offgridman wrote:
>
> I think my description was not very good.
> Actually switching the ground to the frame eliminates the rats nest you
> envision.
> Let me try this again,
> one fused hot wire is common to all three of the bulbs center posts and
> is wired in parallel instead of series so they do not operate as a
> fuse. imagine a ground wire that is connected from one door post switch
> to the the other door post switch that interconnects both under dash
> lights grounding wires. IF you connect this to ground by opening the
> drivers door (this is what the door switch does) then both lights come
> on. If you close the drivers door and open the passenger door then
> current reverses direction and now flows to the passengers door switch
> and to ground. I just added a third door switch so to speak when I
> installed the overhead light. I only had to have three wires from the
> dome light to the underside of the dash to make it all work. two are
> ground wires, and one is a hot wire.
> one ground connects to the underdash lights ground wire. This ground
> wire is connected to the dome light directly and causes the dome light
> to come on when the underdash lights become grounded from one of the
> doors being opened. The other ground connects to the frame of the
> vehicle under the dash continues up to the dome light switch to on one
> side and to the dome lights ground wire on the other side of the
> switch. When this switch is activated a ground path exists from the
> frame under the dash up through the switch to the dome light bulb.
> Since the underdash lights connect directly to the dome lights ground
> wire a path for the electricity now continues backwards down this
> ground wire to the underdash lights which makes them illuminate.
> Now when the dome lights switch is on a ground path will exist
> Thanks for taking the time and being polite.
> Offgridman

 

Gotcha.

I also prefer ground switching. When I ran my Hella Black Magic's I
just had to run one small trigger wire to a micro mini switch on the
dash to ground the relay.

I just got confused with your description.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Offgridman wrote:
>
> I think my description was not very good.
> Actually switching the ground to the frame eliminates the rats nest you
> envision.
> Let me try this again,
> one fused hot wire is common to all three of the bulbs center posts and
> is wired in parallel instead of series so they do not operate as a
> fuse. imagine a ground wire that is connected from one door post switch
> to the the other door post switch that interconnects both under dash
> lights grounding wires. IF you connect this to ground by opening the
> drivers door (this is what the door switch does) then both lights come
> on. If you close the drivers door and open the passenger door then
> current reverses direction and now flows to the passengers door switch
> and to ground. I just added a third door switch so to speak when I
> installed the overhead light. I only had to have three wires from the
> dome light to the underside of the dash to make it all work. two are
> ground wires, and one is a hot wire.
> one ground connects to the underdash lights ground wire. This ground
> wire is connected to the dome light directly and causes the dome light
> to come on when the underdash lights become grounded from one of the
> doors being opened. The other ground connects to the frame of the
> vehicle under the dash continues up to the dome light switch to on one
> side and to the dome lights ground wire on the other side of the
> switch. When this switch is activated a ground path exists from the
> frame under the dash up through the switch to the dome light bulb.
> Since the underdash lights connect directly to the dome lights ground
> wire a path for the electricity now continues backwards down this
> ground wire to the underdash lights which makes them illuminate.
> Now when the dome lights switch is on a ground path will exist
> Thanks for taking the time and being polite.
> Offgridman

 

Gotcha.

I also prefer ground switching. When I ran my Hella Black Magic's I
just had to run one small trigger wire to a micro mini switch on the
dash to ground the relay.

I just got confused with your description.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Offgridman wrote:
>
> I think my description was not very good.
> Actually switching the ground to the frame eliminates the rats nest you
> envision.
> Let me try this again,
> one fused hot wire is common to all three of the bulbs center posts and
> is wired in parallel instead of series so they do not operate as a
> fuse. imagine a ground wire that is connected from one door post switch
> to the the other door post switch that interconnects both under dash
> lights grounding wires. IF you connect this to ground by opening the
> drivers door (this is what the door switch does) then both lights come
> on. If you close the drivers door and open the passenger door then
> current reverses direction and now flows to the passengers door switch
> and to ground. I just added a third door switch so to speak when I
> installed the overhead light. I only had to have three wires from the
> dome light to the underside of the dash to make it all work. two are
> ground wires, and one is a hot wire.
> one ground connects to the underdash lights ground wire. This ground
> wire is connected to the dome light directly and causes the dome light
> to come on when the underdash lights become grounded from one of the
> doors being opened. The other ground connects to the frame of the
> vehicle under the dash continues up to the dome light switch to on one
> side and to the dome lights ground wire on the other side of the
> switch. When this switch is activated a ground path exists from the
> frame under the dash up through the switch to the dome light bulb.
> Since the underdash lights connect directly to the dome lights ground
> wire a path for the electricity now continues backwards down this
> ground wire to the underdash lights which makes them illuminate.
> Now when the dome lights switch is on a ground path will exist
> Thanks for taking the time and being polite.
> Offgridman