YJ added interior light wiring tip
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ added interior light wiring tip
You told us that your added bonus was the dash light came on,
meaning they were needed to complete the circuit. Like all the lights
must work in a cheap set of Christmas lights.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Offgridman wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean by bulb fuses. The same fuses that protect
> the underdash light will protect the circuit. I used it because it is
> labeled correctly and has enough amperage and wire capacity to
> illuminate another bulb.
> Can you clarify what you mean please?
meaning they were needed to complete the circuit. Like all the lights
must work in a cheap set of Christmas lights.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Offgridman wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean by bulb fuses. The same fuses that protect
> the underdash light will protect the circuit. I used it because it is
> labeled correctly and has enough amperage and wire capacity to
> illuminate another bulb.
> Can you clarify what you mean please?
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ added interior light wiring tip
Actually they are not needed to complete the circuit.
The ground for them comes from the door switch when the door is open or
when the dome light switch is activated (remember it is on the negative
wire) then a ground path is provided for them through the dome light
switch. Any one light going out will not stop the others from
illuminating. I never understood why some care manufacturers put a
switch on the ground wires before. Now I see it makes it easy to
control things with one wire from different locations.
The ground for them comes from the door switch when the door is open or
when the dome light switch is activated (remember it is on the negative
wire) then a ground path is provided for them through the dome light
switch. Any one light going out will not stop the others from
illuminating. I never understood why some care manufacturers put a
switch on the ground wires before. Now I see it makes it easy to
control things with one wire from different locations.
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ added interior light wiring tip
Actually they are not needed to complete the circuit.
The ground for them comes from the door switch when the door is open or
when the dome light switch is activated (remember it is on the negative
wire) then a ground path is provided for them through the dome light
switch. Any one light going out will not stop the others from
illuminating. I never understood why some care manufacturers put a
switch on the ground wires before. Now I see it makes it easy to
control things with one wire from different locations.
The ground for them comes from the door switch when the door is open or
when the dome light switch is activated (remember it is on the negative
wire) then a ground path is provided for them through the dome light
switch. Any one light going out will not stop the others from
illuminating. I never understood why some care manufacturers put a
switch on the ground wires before. Now I see it makes it easy to
control things with one wire from different locations.
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ added interior light wiring tip
Actually they are not needed to complete the circuit.
The ground for them comes from the door switch when the door is open or
when the dome light switch is activated (remember it is on the negative
wire) then a ground path is provided for them through the dome light
switch. Any one light going out will not stop the others from
illuminating. I never understood why some care manufacturers put a
switch on the ground wires before. Now I see it makes it easy to
control things with one wire from different locations.
The ground for them comes from the door switch when the door is open or
when the dome light switch is activated (remember it is on the negative
wire) then a ground path is provided for them through the dome light
switch. Any one light going out will not stop the others from
illuminating. I never understood why some care manufacturers put a
switch on the ground wires before. Now I see it makes it easy to
control things with one wire from different locations.
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ added interior light wiring tip
Actually they are not needed to complete the circuit.
The ground for them comes from the door switch when the door is open or
when the dome light switch is activated (remember it is on the negative
wire) then a ground path is provided for them through the dome light
switch. Any one light going out will not stop the others from
illuminating. I never understood why some care manufacturers put a
switch on the ground wires before. Now I see it makes it easy to
control things with one wire from different locations.
The ground for them comes from the door switch when the door is open or
when the dome light switch is activated (remember it is on the negative
wire) then a ground path is provided for them through the dome light
switch. Any one light going out will not stop the others from
illuminating. I never understood why some care manufacturers put a
switch on the ground wires before. Now I see it makes it easy to
control things with one wire from different locations.
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ added interior light wiring tip
When the power goes to a bulb first and the switch is the ground, the
bulb filament becomes a 'fuse'. Daimler wired one of my motorbikes this
way, with the tail light bulb in series with the coil power line.
I am not sure how you wired all of them, but it sounds like you have
several bulbs in series using the ground from the door switch or light
switch to 'power' it up. If they are wired this way, any one bulb
burning out will break the 'ground' line and shut the system down.
If however you have multiple grounds running and everything in parallel
which would be quite the rats nest, then one bulb blowing would just be
one bulb blowing.
Maybe I wasn't reading your description right?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Offgridman wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean by bulb fuses. The same fuses that protect
> the underdash light will protect the circuit. I used it because it is
> labeled correctly and has enough amperage and wire capacity to
> illuminate another bulb.
> Can you clarify what you mean please?
bulb filament becomes a 'fuse'. Daimler wired one of my motorbikes this
way, with the tail light bulb in series with the coil power line.
I am not sure how you wired all of them, but it sounds like you have
several bulbs in series using the ground from the door switch or light
switch to 'power' it up. If they are wired this way, any one bulb
burning out will break the 'ground' line and shut the system down.
If however you have multiple grounds running and everything in parallel
which would be quite the rats nest, then one bulb blowing would just be
one bulb blowing.
Maybe I wasn't reading your description right?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Offgridman wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean by bulb fuses. The same fuses that protect
> the underdash light will protect the circuit. I used it because it is
> labeled correctly and has enough amperage and wire capacity to
> illuminate another bulb.
> Can you clarify what you mean please?
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ added interior light wiring tip
When the power goes to a bulb first and the switch is the ground, the
bulb filament becomes a 'fuse'. Daimler wired one of my motorbikes this
way, with the tail light bulb in series with the coil power line.
I am not sure how you wired all of them, but it sounds like you have
several bulbs in series using the ground from the door switch or light
switch to 'power' it up. If they are wired this way, any one bulb
burning out will break the 'ground' line and shut the system down.
If however you have multiple grounds running and everything in parallel
which would be quite the rats nest, then one bulb blowing would just be
one bulb blowing.
Maybe I wasn't reading your description right?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Offgridman wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean by bulb fuses. The same fuses that protect
> the underdash light will protect the circuit. I used it because it is
> labeled correctly and has enough amperage and wire capacity to
> illuminate another bulb.
> Can you clarify what you mean please?
bulb filament becomes a 'fuse'. Daimler wired one of my motorbikes this
way, with the tail light bulb in series with the coil power line.
I am not sure how you wired all of them, but it sounds like you have
several bulbs in series using the ground from the door switch or light
switch to 'power' it up. If they are wired this way, any one bulb
burning out will break the 'ground' line and shut the system down.
If however you have multiple grounds running and everything in parallel
which would be quite the rats nest, then one bulb blowing would just be
one bulb blowing.
Maybe I wasn't reading your description right?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Offgridman wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean by bulb fuses. The same fuses that protect
> the underdash light will protect the circuit. I used it because it is
> labeled correctly and has enough amperage and wire capacity to
> illuminate another bulb.
> Can you clarify what you mean please?
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ added interior light wiring tip
When the power goes to a bulb first and the switch is the ground, the
bulb filament becomes a 'fuse'. Daimler wired one of my motorbikes this
way, with the tail light bulb in series with the coil power line.
I am not sure how you wired all of them, but it sounds like you have
several bulbs in series using the ground from the door switch or light
switch to 'power' it up. If they are wired this way, any one bulb
burning out will break the 'ground' line and shut the system down.
If however you have multiple grounds running and everything in parallel
which would be quite the rats nest, then one bulb blowing would just be
one bulb blowing.
Maybe I wasn't reading your description right?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Offgridman wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean by bulb fuses. The same fuses that protect
> the underdash light will protect the circuit. I used it because it is
> labeled correctly and has enough amperage and wire capacity to
> illuminate another bulb.
> Can you clarify what you mean please?
bulb filament becomes a 'fuse'. Daimler wired one of my motorbikes this
way, with the tail light bulb in series with the coil power line.
I am not sure how you wired all of them, but it sounds like you have
several bulbs in series using the ground from the door switch or light
switch to 'power' it up. If they are wired this way, any one bulb
burning out will break the 'ground' line and shut the system down.
If however you have multiple grounds running and everything in parallel
which would be quite the rats nest, then one bulb blowing would just be
one bulb blowing.
Maybe I wasn't reading your description right?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Offgridman wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean by bulb fuses. The same fuses that protect
> the underdash light will protect the circuit. I used it because it is
> labeled correctly and has enough amperage and wire capacity to
> illuminate another bulb.
> Can you clarify what you mean please?
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ added interior light wiring tip
When the power goes to a bulb first and the switch is the ground, the
bulb filament becomes a 'fuse'. Daimler wired one of my motorbikes this
way, with the tail light bulb in series with the coil power line.
I am not sure how you wired all of them, but it sounds like you have
several bulbs in series using the ground from the door switch or light
switch to 'power' it up. If they are wired this way, any one bulb
burning out will break the 'ground' line and shut the system down.
If however you have multiple grounds running and everything in parallel
which would be quite the rats nest, then one bulb blowing would just be
one bulb blowing.
Maybe I wasn't reading your description right?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Offgridman wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean by bulb fuses. The same fuses that protect
> the underdash light will protect the circuit. I used it because it is
> labeled correctly and has enough amperage and wire capacity to
> illuminate another bulb.
> Can you clarify what you mean please?
bulb filament becomes a 'fuse'. Daimler wired one of my motorbikes this
way, with the tail light bulb in series with the coil power line.
I am not sure how you wired all of them, but it sounds like you have
several bulbs in series using the ground from the door switch or light
switch to 'power' it up. If they are wired this way, any one bulb
burning out will break the 'ground' line and shut the system down.
If however you have multiple grounds running and everything in parallel
which would be quite the rats nest, then one bulb blowing would just be
one bulb blowing.
Maybe I wasn't reading your description right?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Offgridman wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean by bulb fuses. The same fuses that protect
> the underdash light will protect the circuit. I used it because it is
> labeled correctly and has enough amperage and wire capacity to
> illuminate another bulb.
> Can you clarify what you mean please?
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: YJ added interior light wiring tip
I think my description was not very good.
Actually switching the ground to the frame eliminates the rats nest you
envision.
Let me try this again,
one fused hot wire is common to all three of the bulbs center posts and
is wired in parallel instead of series so they do not operate as a
fuse. imagine a ground wire that is connected from one door post switch
to the the other door post switch that interconnects both under dash
lights grounding wires. IF you connect this to ground by opening the
drivers door (this is what the door switch does) then both lights come
on. If you close the drivers door and open the passenger door then
current reverses direction and now flows to the passengers door switch
and to ground. I just added a third door switch so to speak when I
installed the overhead light. I only had to have three wires from the
dome light to the underside of the dash to make it all work. two are
ground wires, and one is a hot wire.
one ground connects to the underdash lights ground wire. This ground
wire is connected to the dome light directly and causes the dome light
to come on when the underdash lights become grounded from one of the
doors being opened. The other ground connects to the frame of the
vehicle under the dash continues up to the dome light switch to on one
side and to the dome lights ground wire on the other side of the
switch. When this switch is activated a ground path exists from the
frame under the dash up through the switch to the dome light bulb.
Since the underdash lights connect directly to the dome lights ground
wire a path for the electricity now continues backwards down this
ground wire to the underdash lights which makes them illuminate.
Now when the dome lights switch is on a ground path will exist
Thanks for taking the time and being polite.
Offgridman
Actually switching the ground to the frame eliminates the rats nest you
envision.
Let me try this again,
one fused hot wire is common to all three of the bulbs center posts and
is wired in parallel instead of series so they do not operate as a
fuse. imagine a ground wire that is connected from one door post switch
to the the other door post switch that interconnects both under dash
lights grounding wires. IF you connect this to ground by opening the
drivers door (this is what the door switch does) then both lights come
on. If you close the drivers door and open the passenger door then
current reverses direction and now flows to the passengers door switch
and to ground. I just added a third door switch so to speak when I
installed the overhead light. I only had to have three wires from the
dome light to the underside of the dash to make it all work. two are
ground wires, and one is a hot wire.
one ground connects to the underdash lights ground wire. This ground
wire is connected to the dome light directly and causes the dome light
to come on when the underdash lights become grounded from one of the
doors being opened. The other ground connects to the frame of the
vehicle under the dash continues up to the dome light switch to on one
side and to the dome lights ground wire on the other side of the
switch. When this switch is activated a ground path exists from the
frame under the dash up through the switch to the dome light bulb.
Since the underdash lights connect directly to the dome lights ground
wire a path for the electricity now continues backwards down this
ground wire to the underdash lights which makes them illuminate.
Now when the dome lights switch is on a ground path will exist
Thanks for taking the time and being polite.
Offgridman