XJ LED Taillights
06-19-2007, 03:07 AM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ LED Taillights
caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
> like the way the LEDs look.
>
> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
> right turn signal works normally.
> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine before
> the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause this
> and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> John C.
>
I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this device,
check to make sure it is within the specified load.
Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the normal
switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a solid state
flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws of the LED
lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the device is
unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed for.
@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
> like the way the LEDs look.
>
> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
> right turn signal works normally.
> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine before
> the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause this
> and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> John C.
>
I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this device,
check to make sure it is within the specified load.
Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the normal
switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a solid state
flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws of the LED
lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the device is
unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed for.
06-19-2007, 03:07 AM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ LED Taillights
caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
> like the way the LEDs look.
>
> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
> right turn signal works normally.
> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine before
> the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause this
> and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> John C.
>
I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this device,
check to make sure it is within the specified load.
Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the normal
switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a solid state
flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws of the LED
lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the device is
unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed for.
@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
> like the way the LEDs look.
>
> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
> right turn signal works normally.
> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine before
> the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause this
> and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> John C.
>
I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this device,
check to make sure it is within the specified load.
Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the normal
switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a solid state
flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws of the LED
lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the device is
unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed for.
06-19-2007, 03:07 AM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ LED Taillights
caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
> like the way the LEDs look.
>
> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
> right turn signal works normally.
> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine before
> the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause this
> and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> John C.
>
I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this device,
check to make sure it is within the specified load.
Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the normal
switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a solid state
flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws of the LED
lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the device is
unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed for.
@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
> like the way the LEDs look.
>
> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
> right turn signal works normally.
> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine before
> the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause this
> and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> John C.
>
I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this device,
check to make sure it is within the specified load.
Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the normal
switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a solid state
flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws of the LED
lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the device is
unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed for.
06-19-2007, 03:23 AM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ LED Taillights
SneakyP <invalid@invalidsneakemail.com> wrote in
news:f57dpc.15c.1@hamsterserver.local.127.0.0.1:
> caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
> @k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
>
>> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
>> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
>> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
>> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
>> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
>> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
>> like the way the LEDs look.
>>
>> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
>> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
>> right turn signal works normally.
>> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
>> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
>> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
>> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
>> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
>> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine
>> before the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause
>> this and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>> John C.
>>
> I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
> solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
> too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this
> device, check to make sure it is within the specified load.
>
> Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the
> normal switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a
> solid state flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws
> of the LED lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the
> device is unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed
> for.
>
When you replace the LED bulbs for troubleshooting, I would also suggest
a shunt resistor in series with these LEDs to simulate a more realistic
filament bulb current draw. It's coinkydoink, I know, but this sounds
more like a mismatch between the flasher unit (driver designed to drive
higher current bulbs) and the lighting circuit, with LEDs - drawing a
much smaller current (the shunt resistance should increase this current).
--
SneakyP
To reply: newsgroup only, what's posted in ng stays in ng.
Some choose to swim in the potty bowl of nan-ae rather than flush it
down :0)
news:f57dpc.15c.1@hamsterserver.local.127.0.0.1:
> caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
> @k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
>
>> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
>> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
>> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
>> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
>> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
>> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
>> like the way the LEDs look.
>>
>> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
>> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
>> right turn signal works normally.
>> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
>> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
>> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
>> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
>> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
>> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine
>> before the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause
>> this and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>> John C.
>>
> I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
> solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
> too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this
> device, check to make sure it is within the specified load.
>
> Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the
> normal switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a
> solid state flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws
> of the LED lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the
> device is unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed
> for.
>
When you replace the LED bulbs for troubleshooting, I would also suggest
a shunt resistor in series with these LEDs to simulate a more realistic
filament bulb current draw. It's coinkydoink, I know, but this sounds
more like a mismatch between the flasher unit (driver designed to drive
higher current bulbs) and the lighting circuit, with LEDs - drawing a
much smaller current (the shunt resistance should increase this current).
--
SneakyP
To reply: newsgroup only, what's posted in ng stays in ng.
Some choose to swim in the potty bowl of nan-ae rather than flush it
down :0)
06-19-2007, 03:23 AM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ LED Taillights
SneakyP <invalid@invalidsneakemail.com> wrote in
news:f57dpc.15c.1@hamsterserver.local.127.0.0.1:
> caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
> @k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
>
>> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
>> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
>> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
>> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
>> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
>> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
>> like the way the LEDs look.
>>
>> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
>> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
>> right turn signal works normally.
>> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
>> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
>> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
>> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
>> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
>> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine
>> before the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause
>> this and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>> John C.
>>
> I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
> solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
> too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this
> device, check to make sure it is within the specified load.
>
> Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the
> normal switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a
> solid state flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws
> of the LED lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the
> device is unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed
> for.
>
When you replace the LED bulbs for troubleshooting, I would also suggest
a shunt resistor in series with these LEDs to simulate a more realistic
filament bulb current draw. It's coinkydoink, I know, but this sounds
more like a mismatch between the flasher unit (driver designed to drive
higher current bulbs) and the lighting circuit, with LEDs - drawing a
much smaller current (the shunt resistance should increase this current).
--
SneakyP
To reply: newsgroup only, what's posted in ng stays in ng.
Some choose to swim in the potty bowl of nan-ae rather than flush it
down :0)
news:f57dpc.15c.1@hamsterserver.local.127.0.0.1:
> caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
> @k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
>
>> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
>> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
>> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
>> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
>> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
>> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
>> like the way the LEDs look.
>>
>> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
>> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
>> right turn signal works normally.
>> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
>> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
>> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
>> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
>> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
>> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine
>> before the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause
>> this and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>> John C.
>>
> I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
> solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
> too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this
> device, check to make sure it is within the specified load.
>
> Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the
> normal switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a
> solid state flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws
> of the LED lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the
> device is unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed
> for.
>
When you replace the LED bulbs for troubleshooting, I would also suggest
a shunt resistor in series with these LEDs to simulate a more realistic
filament bulb current draw. It's coinkydoink, I know, but this sounds
more like a mismatch between the flasher unit (driver designed to drive
higher current bulbs) and the lighting circuit, with LEDs - drawing a
much smaller current (the shunt resistance should increase this current).
--
SneakyP
To reply: newsgroup only, what's posted in ng stays in ng.
Some choose to swim in the potty bowl of nan-ae rather than flush it
down :0)
06-19-2007, 03:23 AM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ LED Taillights
SneakyP <invalid@invalidsneakemail.com> wrote in
news:f57dpc.15c.1@hamsterserver.local.127.0.0.1:
> caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
> @k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
>
>> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
>> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
>> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
>> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
>> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
>> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
>> like the way the LEDs look.
>>
>> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
>> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
>> right turn signal works normally.
>> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
>> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
>> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
>> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
>> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
>> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine
>> before the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause
>> this and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>> John C.
>>
> I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
> solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
> too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this
> device, check to make sure it is within the specified load.
>
> Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the
> normal switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a
> solid state flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws
> of the LED lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the
> device is unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed
> for.
>
When you replace the LED bulbs for troubleshooting, I would also suggest
a shunt resistor in series with these LEDs to simulate a more realistic
filament bulb current draw. It's coinkydoink, I know, but this sounds
more like a mismatch between the flasher unit (driver designed to drive
higher current bulbs) and the lighting circuit, with LEDs - drawing a
much smaller current (the shunt resistance should increase this current).
--
SneakyP
To reply: newsgroup only, what's posted in ng stays in ng.
Some choose to swim in the potty bowl of nan-ae rather than flush it
down :0)
news:f57dpc.15c.1@hamsterserver.local.127.0.0.1:
> caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
> @k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
>
>> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
>> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
>> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
>> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
>> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
>> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
>> like the way the LEDs look.
>>
>> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
>> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
>> right turn signal works normally.
>> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
>> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
>> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
>> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
>> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
>> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine
>> before the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause
>> this and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>> John C.
>>
> I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
> solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
> too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this
> device, check to make sure it is within the specified load.
>
> Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the
> normal switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a
> solid state flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws
> of the LED lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the
> device is unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed
> for.
>
When you replace the LED bulbs for troubleshooting, I would also suggest
a shunt resistor in series with these LEDs to simulate a more realistic
filament bulb current draw. It's coinkydoink, I know, but this sounds
more like a mismatch between the flasher unit (driver designed to drive
higher current bulbs) and the lighting circuit, with LEDs - drawing a
much smaller current (the shunt resistance should increase this current).
--
SneakyP
To reply: newsgroup only, what's posted in ng stays in ng.
Some choose to swim in the potty bowl of nan-ae rather than flush it
down :0)
06-19-2007, 03:23 AM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ LED Taillights
SneakyP <invalid@invalidsneakemail.com> wrote in
news:f57dpc.15c.1@hamsterserver.local.127.0.0.1:
> caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
> @k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
>
>> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
>> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
>> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
>> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
>> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
>> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
>> like the way the LEDs look.
>>
>> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
>> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
>> right turn signal works normally.
>> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
>> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
>> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
>> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
>> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
>> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine
>> before the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause
>> this and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>> John C.
>>
> I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
> solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
> too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this
> device, check to make sure it is within the specified load.
>
> Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the
> normal switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a
> solid state flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws
> of the LED lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the
> device is unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed
> for.
>
When you replace the LED bulbs for troubleshooting, I would also suggest
a shunt resistor in series with these LEDs to simulate a more realistic
filament bulb current draw. It's coinkydoink, I know, but this sounds
more like a mismatch between the flasher unit (driver designed to drive
higher current bulbs) and the lighting circuit, with LEDs - drawing a
much smaller current (the shunt resistance should increase this current).
--
SneakyP
To reply: newsgroup only, what's posted in ng stays in ng.
Some choose to swim in the potty bowl of nan-ae rather than flush it
down :0)
news:f57dpc.15c.1@hamsterserver.local.127.0.0.1:
> caps <caps@cablespeed.com> wrote in news:1181947028.550152.74450
> @k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
>
>> Help. I am being driven nuts by my jeep. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee
>> XJ/ I replaced my turn signal and brake lights with LED bulbs and
>> they flashed way too fast. I then bought a LED flasher unit that is
>> designed for LEDs (EP27-L) since I was told that there is no such
>> thing as a heavy duty flasher to replace the stock one. That cured
>> the flashing speed problem and the lights work fine now. I really
>> like the way the LEDs look.
>>
>> Now the problem - Today I plugged in my utility trailer and for some
>> reason the left turn signal causes both tail lights to flash. The
>> right turn signal works normally.
>> Brake works ok as does the running lights. The trailer wiring is ok
>> and bulbs are fine. Checked the trailer ground and its ok. Checked
>> the voltages at the connector and when the left turn signal is on
>> there is voltage at both left and right turn connectors. When the
>> right turn signal is on, only the right connector has voltage. I
>> have a factory installed tow package and everything worked fine
>> before the LED conversion. And the question is..... What could cause
>> this and how do I fix it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>> John C.
>>
> I would suggest you add up all the current draws necessary to run the
> solid state relay switches and see if any of the loads draw
> too/much/little load on it. If theres a range specified for this
> device, check to make sure it is within the specified load.
>
> Since filament lights normally draw a much larger current for the
> normal switch/flasher unit to operate properly it makes sense that a
> solid state flasher unit works for the much lower load current draws
> of the LED lights. Perhaps there is a tolerance of current which the
> device is unable to handle outside of the current draw it is designed
> for.
>
When you replace the LED bulbs for troubleshooting, I would also suggest
a shunt resistor in series with these LEDs to simulate a more realistic
filament bulb current draw. It's coinkydoink, I know, but this sounds
more like a mismatch between the flasher unit (driver designed to drive
higher current bulbs) and the lighting circuit, with LEDs - drawing a
much smaller current (the shunt resistance should increase this current).
--
SneakyP
To reply: newsgroup only, what's posted in ng stays in ng.
Some choose to swim in the potty bowl of nan-ae rather than flush it
down :0)
06-21-2007, 06:48 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ LED Taillights
On Jun 19, 12:51 am, Nobody But Me <inva...@invalid.com> wrote:
> caps <c...@cablespeed.com> wrote innews:1182205246.600787.135980@p77g2000hsh.google groups.com:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jun 18, 11:07 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> On Jun 17, 5:21 pm, ---- <w...@k7yca.org> wrote:
>
> >> > On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 16:23:30 -0700, caps <c...@cablespeed.com>
> >> > wrote:
> >> > >That was my thought and when I saw that the trailer used the
> >> > >chasis for the ground, I installed a wire from each lights ground
> >> > >to the connector/chasis ground point. My jeep has one of the
> >> > >factory installed large round connectors and I use an adapter to
> >> > >connect the four pin connector for the trailer. I though it might
> >> > >be the connector adapter but I tried another one and it made no
> >> > >difference. It is not the trailer lights. When I measure the
> >> > >voltage at the Jeep connector, the left turn signal applies
> >> > >voltage to both the left turn and right turn pins on it. The right
> >> > >turn signal works as it should. The lights on the jeep seem to
> >> > >work as they should but the signal at the connector is wrong.
>
> >> > >John C.
>
> >> > If the factory tow lighting on a 2001 Cherokee is anything like the
> >> > same on a '93 Grand Cherokee, the wiring is quite complex. It
> >> > involves a number of connectors and 3 relays. I would get a copy
> >> > of the factory service manual to do your failure diagnosis.
> >> > Without a schematic of that system you are really shooting in the
> >> > dark.
>
> >> > ----
>
> >> > --
> >> > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> >> If all the wiring is intact, the turn signal/dimmer switch assy. is
> >> where it all "Y's" together...- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > Ok, I'm a little closer to zeroing in on the problem. I pulled all 13
> > of the LED bulbs and put the stock ones back in. Left the electonic
> > flasher unit in since it is more trouble to replace. Everything works
> > as it is supposed to. I put the LED side marker and top brake LED
> > back in and everything still works ok. Don't have time today but I am
> > going to put the LED lights back in one at a time until the problem
> > re- appears.
>
> > John C.
>
> That may be a current draw issue. Too little current draw can stop the
> flasher unit designed for higher currents.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
The flasher unit is an electronic one and is supposed to work with
either LED bulbs or Incadescent. It works fine with the regular
bulbs. I did some testing on one of the LED brake lite bulbs. Its
one of those kind that has 25 small LEDs with some sort of electronic
circuit in it. Its a replacement for a standard 3157 dual filament
bulb. I found that the bulb does not have two separate electrical
paths like a filament bulb does. The LED bulb is non-polarized and
you can apply 12V to ANY two connections on the LED bulb and it will
light. Three of the possible six connections cause a bright beam
(Brake) and three cause low beam (Running light). I'm thinking that
maybe I can put a couple diodes inside the bulb housing to polarize
them and prevent the electrical cross connection at the Positive side
of the circuit. This would give the same effect as having two
separate filaments - I think.
John C.
> caps <c...@cablespeed.com> wrote innews:1182205246.600787.135980@p77g2000hsh.google groups.com:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jun 18, 11:07 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> On Jun 17, 5:21 pm, ---- <w...@k7yca.org> wrote:
>
> >> > On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 16:23:30 -0700, caps <c...@cablespeed.com>
> >> > wrote:
> >> > >That was my thought and when I saw that the trailer used the
> >> > >chasis for the ground, I installed a wire from each lights ground
> >> > >to the connector/chasis ground point. My jeep has one of the
> >> > >factory installed large round connectors and I use an adapter to
> >> > >connect the four pin connector for the trailer. I though it might
> >> > >be the connector adapter but I tried another one and it made no
> >> > >difference. It is not the trailer lights. When I measure the
> >> > >voltage at the Jeep connector, the left turn signal applies
> >> > >voltage to both the left turn and right turn pins on it. The right
> >> > >turn signal works as it should. The lights on the jeep seem to
> >> > >work as they should but the signal at the connector is wrong.
>
> >> > >John C.
>
> >> > If the factory tow lighting on a 2001 Cherokee is anything like the
> >> > same on a '93 Grand Cherokee, the wiring is quite complex. It
> >> > involves a number of connectors and 3 relays. I would get a copy
> >> > of the factory service manual to do your failure diagnosis.
> >> > Without a schematic of that system you are really shooting in the
> >> > dark.
>
> >> > ----
>
> >> > --
> >> > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> >> If all the wiring is intact, the turn signal/dimmer switch assy. is
> >> where it all "Y's" together...- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > Ok, I'm a little closer to zeroing in on the problem. I pulled all 13
> > of the LED bulbs and put the stock ones back in. Left the electonic
> > flasher unit in since it is more trouble to replace. Everything works
> > as it is supposed to. I put the LED side marker and top brake LED
> > back in and everything still works ok. Don't have time today but I am
> > going to put the LED lights back in one at a time until the problem
> > re- appears.
>
> > John C.
>
> That may be a current draw issue. Too little current draw can stop the
> flasher unit designed for higher currents.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
The flasher unit is an electronic one and is supposed to work with
either LED bulbs or Incadescent. It works fine with the regular
bulbs. I did some testing on one of the LED brake lite bulbs. Its
one of those kind that has 25 small LEDs with some sort of electronic
circuit in it. Its a replacement for a standard 3157 dual filament
bulb. I found that the bulb does not have two separate electrical
paths like a filament bulb does. The LED bulb is non-polarized and
you can apply 12V to ANY two connections on the LED bulb and it will
light. Three of the possible six connections cause a bright beam
(Brake) and three cause low beam (Running light). I'm thinking that
maybe I can put a couple diodes inside the bulb housing to polarize
them and prevent the electrical cross connection at the Positive side
of the circuit. This would give the same effect as having two
separate filaments - I think.
John C.
06-21-2007, 06:48 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ LED Taillights
On Jun 19, 12:51 am, Nobody But Me <inva...@invalid.com> wrote:
> caps <c...@cablespeed.com> wrote innews:1182205246.600787.135980@p77g2000hsh.google groups.com:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jun 18, 11:07 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> On Jun 17, 5:21 pm, ---- <w...@k7yca.org> wrote:
>
> >> > On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 16:23:30 -0700, caps <c...@cablespeed.com>
> >> > wrote:
> >> > >That was my thought and when I saw that the trailer used the
> >> > >chasis for the ground, I installed a wire from each lights ground
> >> > >to the connector/chasis ground point. My jeep has one of the
> >> > >factory installed large round connectors and I use an adapter to
> >> > >connect the four pin connector for the trailer. I though it might
> >> > >be the connector adapter but I tried another one and it made no
> >> > >difference. It is not the trailer lights. When I measure the
> >> > >voltage at the Jeep connector, the left turn signal applies
> >> > >voltage to both the left turn and right turn pins on it. The right
> >> > >turn signal works as it should. The lights on the jeep seem to
> >> > >work as they should but the signal at the connector is wrong.
>
> >> > >John C.
>
> >> > If the factory tow lighting on a 2001 Cherokee is anything like the
> >> > same on a '93 Grand Cherokee, the wiring is quite complex. It
> >> > involves a number of connectors and 3 relays. I would get a copy
> >> > of the factory service manual to do your failure diagnosis.
> >> > Without a schematic of that system you are really shooting in the
> >> > dark.
>
> >> > ----
>
> >> > --
> >> > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> >> If all the wiring is intact, the turn signal/dimmer switch assy. is
> >> where it all "Y's" together...- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > Ok, I'm a little closer to zeroing in on the problem. I pulled all 13
> > of the LED bulbs and put the stock ones back in. Left the electonic
> > flasher unit in since it is more trouble to replace. Everything works
> > as it is supposed to. I put the LED side marker and top brake LED
> > back in and everything still works ok. Don't have time today but I am
> > going to put the LED lights back in one at a time until the problem
> > re- appears.
>
> > John C.
>
> That may be a current draw issue. Too little current draw can stop the
> flasher unit designed for higher currents.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
The flasher unit is an electronic one and is supposed to work with
either LED bulbs or Incadescent. It works fine with the regular
bulbs. I did some testing on one of the LED brake lite bulbs. Its
one of those kind that has 25 small LEDs with some sort of electronic
circuit in it. Its a replacement for a standard 3157 dual filament
bulb. I found that the bulb does not have two separate electrical
paths like a filament bulb does. The LED bulb is non-polarized and
you can apply 12V to ANY two connections on the LED bulb and it will
light. Three of the possible six connections cause a bright beam
(Brake) and three cause low beam (Running light). I'm thinking that
maybe I can put a couple diodes inside the bulb housing to polarize
them and prevent the electrical cross connection at the Positive side
of the circuit. This would give the same effect as having two
separate filaments - I think.
John C.
> caps <c...@cablespeed.com> wrote innews:1182205246.600787.135980@p77g2000hsh.google groups.com:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jun 18, 11:07 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> On Jun 17, 5:21 pm, ---- <w...@k7yca.org> wrote:
>
> >> > On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 16:23:30 -0700, caps <c...@cablespeed.com>
> >> > wrote:
> >> > >That was my thought and when I saw that the trailer used the
> >> > >chasis for the ground, I installed a wire from each lights ground
> >> > >to the connector/chasis ground point. My jeep has one of the
> >> > >factory installed large round connectors and I use an adapter to
> >> > >connect the four pin connector for the trailer. I though it might
> >> > >be the connector adapter but I tried another one and it made no
> >> > >difference. It is not the trailer lights. When I measure the
> >> > >voltage at the Jeep connector, the left turn signal applies
> >> > >voltage to both the left turn and right turn pins on it. The right
> >> > >turn signal works as it should. The lights on the jeep seem to
> >> > >work as they should but the signal at the connector is wrong.
>
> >> > >John C.
>
> >> > If the factory tow lighting on a 2001 Cherokee is anything like the
> >> > same on a '93 Grand Cherokee, the wiring is quite complex. It
> >> > involves a number of connectors and 3 relays. I would get a copy
> >> > of the factory service manual to do your failure diagnosis.
> >> > Without a schematic of that system you are really shooting in the
> >> > dark.
>
> >> > ----
>
> >> > --
> >> > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> >> If all the wiring is intact, the turn signal/dimmer switch assy. is
> >> where it all "Y's" together...- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > Ok, I'm a little closer to zeroing in on the problem. I pulled all 13
> > of the LED bulbs and put the stock ones back in. Left the electonic
> > flasher unit in since it is more trouble to replace. Everything works
> > as it is supposed to. I put the LED side marker and top brake LED
> > back in and everything still works ok. Don't have time today but I am
> > going to put the LED lights back in one at a time until the problem
> > re- appears.
>
> > John C.
>
> That may be a current draw issue. Too little current draw can stop the
> flasher unit designed for higher currents.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
The flasher unit is an electronic one and is supposed to work with
either LED bulbs or Incadescent. It works fine with the regular
bulbs. I did some testing on one of the LED brake lite bulbs. Its
one of those kind that has 25 small LEDs with some sort of electronic
circuit in it. Its a replacement for a standard 3157 dual filament
bulb. I found that the bulb does not have two separate electrical
paths like a filament bulb does. The LED bulb is non-polarized and
you can apply 12V to ANY two connections on the LED bulb and it will
light. Three of the possible six connections cause a bright beam
(Brake) and three cause low beam (Running light). I'm thinking that
maybe I can put a couple diodes inside the bulb housing to polarize
them and prevent the electrical cross connection at the Positive side
of the circuit. This would give the same effect as having two
separate filaments - I think.
John C.
06-21-2007, 06:48 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: XJ LED Taillights
On Jun 19, 12:51 am, Nobody But Me <inva...@invalid.com> wrote:
> caps <c...@cablespeed.com> wrote innews:1182205246.600787.135980@p77g2000hsh.google groups.com:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jun 18, 11:07 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> On Jun 17, 5:21 pm, ---- <w...@k7yca.org> wrote:
>
> >> > On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 16:23:30 -0700, caps <c...@cablespeed.com>
> >> > wrote:
> >> > >That was my thought and when I saw that the trailer used the
> >> > >chasis for the ground, I installed a wire from each lights ground
> >> > >to the connector/chasis ground point. My jeep has one of the
> >> > >factory installed large round connectors and I use an adapter to
> >> > >connect the four pin connector for the trailer. I though it might
> >> > >be the connector adapter but I tried another one and it made no
> >> > >difference. It is not the trailer lights. When I measure the
> >> > >voltage at the Jeep connector, the left turn signal applies
> >> > >voltage to both the left turn and right turn pins on it. The right
> >> > >turn signal works as it should. The lights on the jeep seem to
> >> > >work as they should but the signal at the connector is wrong.
>
> >> > >John C.
>
> >> > If the factory tow lighting on a 2001 Cherokee is anything like the
> >> > same on a '93 Grand Cherokee, the wiring is quite complex. It
> >> > involves a number of connectors and 3 relays. I would get a copy
> >> > of the factory service manual to do your failure diagnosis.
> >> > Without a schematic of that system you are really shooting in the
> >> > dark.
>
> >> > ----
>
> >> > --
> >> > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> >> If all the wiring is intact, the turn signal/dimmer switch assy. is
> >> where it all "Y's" together...- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > Ok, I'm a little closer to zeroing in on the problem. I pulled all 13
> > of the LED bulbs and put the stock ones back in. Left the electonic
> > flasher unit in since it is more trouble to replace. Everything works
> > as it is supposed to. I put the LED side marker and top brake LED
> > back in and everything still works ok. Don't have time today but I am
> > going to put the LED lights back in one at a time until the problem
> > re- appears.
>
> > John C.
>
> That may be a current draw issue. Too little current draw can stop the
> flasher unit designed for higher currents.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
The flasher unit is an electronic one and is supposed to work with
either LED bulbs or Incadescent. It works fine with the regular
bulbs. I did some testing on one of the LED brake lite bulbs. Its
one of those kind that has 25 small LEDs with some sort of electronic
circuit in it. Its a replacement for a standard 3157 dual filament
bulb. I found that the bulb does not have two separate electrical
paths like a filament bulb does. The LED bulb is non-polarized and
you can apply 12V to ANY two connections on the LED bulb and it will
light. Three of the possible six connections cause a bright beam
(Brake) and three cause low beam (Running light). I'm thinking that
maybe I can put a couple diodes inside the bulb housing to polarize
them and prevent the electrical cross connection at the Positive side
of the circuit. This would give the same effect as having two
separate filaments - I think.
John C.
> caps <c...@cablespeed.com> wrote innews:1182205246.600787.135980@p77g2000hsh.google groups.com:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jun 18, 11:07 am, Jon <jongodd...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> On Jun 17, 5:21 pm, ---- <w...@k7yca.org> wrote:
>
> >> > On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 16:23:30 -0700, caps <c...@cablespeed.com>
> >> > wrote:
> >> > >That was my thought and when I saw that the trailer used the
> >> > >chasis for the ground, I installed a wire from each lights ground
> >> > >to the connector/chasis ground point. My jeep has one of the
> >> > >factory installed large round connectors and I use an adapter to
> >> > >connect the four pin connector for the trailer. I though it might
> >> > >be the connector adapter but I tried another one and it made no
> >> > >difference. It is not the trailer lights. When I measure the
> >> > >voltage at the Jeep connector, the left turn signal applies
> >> > >voltage to both the left turn and right turn pins on it. The right
> >> > >turn signal works as it should. The lights on the jeep seem to
> >> > >work as they should but the signal at the connector is wrong.
>
> >> > >John C.
>
> >> > If the factory tow lighting on a 2001 Cherokee is anything like the
> >> > same on a '93 Grand Cherokee, the wiring is quite complex. It
> >> > involves a number of connectors and 3 relays. I would get a copy
> >> > of the factory service manual to do your failure diagnosis.
> >> > Without a schematic of that system you are really shooting in the
> >> > dark.
>
> >> > ----
>
> >> > --
> >> > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
> >> If all the wiring is intact, the turn signal/dimmer switch assy. is
> >> where it all "Y's" together...- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > Ok, I'm a little closer to zeroing in on the problem. I pulled all 13
> > of the LED bulbs and put the stock ones back in. Left the electonic
> > flasher unit in since it is more trouble to replace. Everything works
> > as it is supposed to. I put the LED side marker and top brake LED
> > back in and everything still works ok. Don't have time today but I am
> > going to put the LED lights back in one at a time until the problem
> > re- appears.
>
> > John C.
>
> That may be a current draw issue. Too little current draw can stop the
> flasher unit designed for higher currents.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
The flasher unit is an electronic one and is supposed to work with
either LED bulbs or Incadescent. It works fine with the regular
bulbs. I did some testing on one of the LED brake lite bulbs. Its
one of those kind that has 25 small LEDs with some sort of electronic
circuit in it. Its a replacement for a standard 3157 dual filament
bulb. I found that the bulb does not have two separate electrical
paths like a filament bulb does. The LED bulb is non-polarized and
you can apply 12V to ANY two connections on the LED bulb and it will
light. Three of the possible six connections cause a bright beam
(Brake) and three cause low beam (Running light). I'm thinking that
maybe I can put a couple diodes inside the bulb housing to polarize
them and prevent the electrical cross connection at the Positive side
of the circuit. This would give the same effect as having two
separate filaments - I think.
John C.