Which XJ to get?
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Which XJ to get?
My preference is for a 98 or newer, 5 speed, AC. 97 was the redesign
where the hatch was changed to steel, interior was redone.
Downside is that they went to a slip yoke on the transfer case around 95
I thinks, this means that you will need to add another $500 to any lift
over about 3". Heck, even the factory upcountry option had driveline vibe
problems and that was less than 2" over stock.
Older XJ's check door hinges, specially the 2 door versions.
Look for rusted out floors under the rear seat.
I have a 98 w/181,000+ miles on it and still love it, no lift but I'm
running BFG AT/KO's in 235/75R15's, front and rear skids, front and rear
hooks, goes everywhere I've wanted it to go and carries plenty of stuff,
alot more since I added that 65" safari rack up top.
We have our own web site at http://www.naxja.org just for XJ's and MJ's.
"Steve Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:s8L6b.458$Ee5.113@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com:
>
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <mlmacchia@aol.comspambgon> wrote in message
> news:20030907141731.28496.00000463@mb-m18.aol.com...
>> In article <7t2dnVE_CPkDy8aiRTvU2Q@speakeasy.net>, tmoonNG
>> <theodoremoon@NGhotmail.com> writes:
>
> ...
>
>> >-What sorts of special wear and tear need to be looked for in the XJ
> design?
>>
>> On the 4.0L I-6, look for leaking valve cover and/or oil filter
>> adapter.
> Both
>> relatively easy fixed. The Crank Position Sensor tends to be
>> problematic
> on
>> older I-6's as well.
>
> Look for leaking/corroded rear output shaft on the transfer case
> (Command Trac only)... later ones had the boot to protect this
> vulnerable area. Earlier
> XJ had a problem with the rear hatch lock busting out of the
> fiberglas... fixed by '93, at least. Look for the missing manifold
> vacuum plug... if I'd noticed mine during barter, I could have used it
> for a few points, perhaps. It should be capped... find it on the
> vacuum routing sticker ("unused").
>
>> >
>> >-Which mod's will yield most bang for the buck? Fender-trimming,
>> >lift, bigger tires, anything else? Do I really need a new bumper?
>>
>> A modest 3" lift will fit 31x10.5" tires. You'd need a new bumper if
>> you
> want
>> to install a winch. If not, definitely install adequate tow hooks.
>
> I've been looking at the Draw-Tite front hitch receiver... lots of
> neat accessories,
> including a winch mount good for 8000# straight pull (only 300#
> vertical, so no GodsMustBeCrazy fun). Cheap, too... has tow hooks
> built in. __
> Steve
> .
>
>
>
where the hatch was changed to steel, interior was redone.
Downside is that they went to a slip yoke on the transfer case around 95
I thinks, this means that you will need to add another $500 to any lift
over about 3". Heck, even the factory upcountry option had driveline vibe
problems and that was less than 2" over stock.
Older XJ's check door hinges, specially the 2 door versions.
Look for rusted out floors under the rear seat.
I have a 98 w/181,000+ miles on it and still love it, no lift but I'm
running BFG AT/KO's in 235/75R15's, front and rear skids, front and rear
hooks, goes everywhere I've wanted it to go and carries plenty of stuff,
alot more since I added that 65" safari rack up top.
We have our own web site at http://www.naxja.org just for XJ's and MJ's.
"Steve Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:s8L6b.458$Ee5.113@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com:
>
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <mlmacchia@aol.comspambgon> wrote in message
> news:20030907141731.28496.00000463@mb-m18.aol.com...
>> In article <7t2dnVE_CPkDy8aiRTvU2Q@speakeasy.net>, tmoonNG
>> <theodoremoon@NGhotmail.com> writes:
>
> ...
>
>> >-What sorts of special wear and tear need to be looked for in the XJ
> design?
>>
>> On the 4.0L I-6, look for leaking valve cover and/or oil filter
>> adapter.
> Both
>> relatively easy fixed. The Crank Position Sensor tends to be
>> problematic
> on
>> older I-6's as well.
>
> Look for leaking/corroded rear output shaft on the transfer case
> (Command Trac only)... later ones had the boot to protect this
> vulnerable area. Earlier
> XJ had a problem with the rear hatch lock busting out of the
> fiberglas... fixed by '93, at least. Look for the missing manifold
> vacuum plug... if I'd noticed mine during barter, I could have used it
> for a few points, perhaps. It should be capped... find it on the
> vacuum routing sticker ("unused").
>
>> >
>> >-Which mod's will yield most bang for the buck? Fender-trimming,
>> >lift, bigger tires, anything else? Do I really need a new bumper?
>>
>> A modest 3" lift will fit 31x10.5" tires. You'd need a new bumper if
>> you
> want
>> to install a winch. If not, definitely install adequate tow hooks.
>
> I've been looking at the Draw-Tite front hitch receiver... lots of
> neat accessories,
> including a winch mount good for 8000# straight pull (only 300#
> vertical, so no GodsMustBeCrazy fun). Cheap, too... has tow hooks
> built in. __
> Steve
> .
>
>
>
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Which XJ to get?
"tmoonNG" <theodoremoon@NGhotmail.com> wrote in message >
> -Which years/options are most desireable and why?
I would say best years are 93-96 or 97-2001. 93-96 are identical
drivetrains and parts are still stocked at most stealerships, the body
panels are the same as earlier models (84-92). 97-2001 are pretty much the
same as each other as well, they share the body design (was redesigned in
97).
> -Which years should be avoided?
As stated above, avoid the 2.8 v-6 (unless its for body parts), I would even
agree with avoiding the four banger as well. The inline 6 is a very old and
very proven design, it will give thousands or miles (kilometers) of reliable
service.
> -What sorts of special wear and tear need to be looked for in the XJ
design?
As someone said.. Watch the floor..Both in the passenger compartment and in
the cargo compartment I have had to do work in both these areas.
Snow...93 XJ... 90 percent stock and 95 percent new parts..
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Which XJ to get?
"tmoonNG" <theodoremoon@NGhotmail.com> wrote in message >
> -Which years/options are most desireable and why?
I would say best years are 93-96 or 97-2001. 93-96 are identical
drivetrains and parts are still stocked at most stealerships, the body
panels are the same as earlier models (84-92). 97-2001 are pretty much the
same as each other as well, they share the body design (was redesigned in
97).
> -Which years should be avoided?
As stated above, avoid the 2.8 v-6 (unless its for body parts), I would even
agree with avoiding the four banger as well. The inline 6 is a very old and
very proven design, it will give thousands or miles (kilometers) of reliable
service.
> -What sorts of special wear and tear need to be looked for in the XJ
design?
As someone said.. Watch the floor..Both in the passenger compartment and in
the cargo compartment I have had to do work in both these areas.
Snow...93 XJ... 90 percent stock and 95 percent new parts..
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