Re: Wrangler YJ ignition switch problem
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:464e3ec8$0$1964$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... > lsaugier@hilcorp.com wrote: >> I don't have any evidence that there are any wires burnt out. Given >> that I've replaced the firewall solenoid, battery, and starter, is >> there anything else besides an ignition switch that would cause the >> starter motor to crank uncontrollably? Is it possible I wired the new >> firewall solenoid wrong and that's what's causing it? That seems >> unlikely to me. >> >> The ignition switch is pretty difficult to get at - I'm still not sure >> I'm even able to see it. Is there anything in particular I should >> look for (many wires, few wires, blue clip, white clip, etc) to know >> that I've definitely found the ignition switch? I see the ignition >> rod... thingy... disappear down in there somewhere but can't see where >> it goes. >> > > The switch is at the bottom end of the rod. > > As I mentioned, there are two green wires on that firewall relay/solenoid > unit that are easy to mix then it just starts with battery power. > > Try swapping them. WAIT -- STOP Mike, You are going at this from the direction that he screwed up on his replacement, but his problem began before he did anything and continued afterward. This tells me that he probably has done nothing wrong, therefore his Jeep must be broken. I think his trouble is that the Ignition Lock Set Linkage has broken, and is holding the Ignition Switch to the START position. As soon as he connects the battery terminal, the starter motor begins to crank, even if the key is currently set to OFF. |
Re: Wrangler YJ ignition switch problem
<lsaugier@hilcorp.com> wrote in message news:1179519439.326218.307450@k79g2000hse.googlegr oups.com... > Here's what happened: I started my jeep ('87 YJ 4.2L) and the starter > kept cranking, would not disengage. I didn't know what was happening > and drove off. It sucked all the juice out of my battery and burnt up > the starter. > > My first thought was that my solenoid (the part that sends juice from > the battery to the starter) was stuck. I replaced my solenoid, > starter motor, and battery. When everything was in place I connected > the leads on my battery and the jeep turned over (and would have > started) even though the ignition switch (the one on the steering > column) was set to 'off'. So I think the ignition switch on the > steering column is stuck in the 'start' position. > > How do you replace that thing? Where is it, is it right there where > you put the key in? Do I need to take the steering wheel off and get > to it that way? Chilton is pretty useless here, they really don't > show you where it is or how to get at it. > > Next question - which wire on my solenoid comes from the steering > column? I'm considering a simple 'on-off' switch and a starter button > simply because I can't find where the starter switch is on the > steering column. Any advice? > Let's back up a step of two and start over. If you turn the key (Ignition Lock Set) and it does not feel right, then I suggest you have broken parts in the steering column. You have already said that you think that the Ignition Switch is stuck in the START position, I agree. If this is true, then the key will feel odd -- less resistance than you might expect, the lack of detents as it passes through other settings, that sort of thing. I would not mess around trying to install remote start switches, I would fix the broken parts you already have. (I see no point in adding in new parts to break and confuse the situation in 5 or 10 years.) I have an '81 CJ5, and a '95 Ford Bronco, both of which had variations on the same problem you are having. Both had repair parts available on the aftermarket for just a few dollars. Of the two, the Jeep was cheaper and easier to repair, but I digress. You will need to remove the steering wheel and the Steering Lock Plate (you need a special puller for the lock plate. Autozone has a Free Tool Loaner Program that included the lock plate tool, or you can buy a tool for about $10.). When the lock plate is out, you will see the broken linkage parts, and all you need do is devise the proper route to get it out. Whether or not you have Tilt Steering will alter the directions to get the linkage out, and which linkage part you need to repair the trouble. The linkage is a standard GM part. The aftermarket supplier is called HELP Brand, and if I rember right, the blister package is backed with red paper. (There are different colors of blister packs for the various areas of the vehicle that the part(s) in the package are to be used on.) In my case, I found the HELP Brand parts at Pep Boys -- a very large retail autoparts store. I have found HELP parts at other stores, but the small store on the corner by my house simply lacks the floor space to carry a wide selection. Your corner store may carry the part you need, but if they don't then you can drive across town to the huge autoparts store and probably find the right part in stock. |
Re: Wrangler YJ ignition switch problem
<lsaugier@hilcorp.com> wrote in message news:1179519439.326218.307450@k79g2000hse.googlegr oups.com... > Here's what happened: I started my jeep ('87 YJ 4.2L) and the starter > kept cranking, would not disengage. I didn't know what was happening > and drove off. It sucked all the juice out of my battery and burnt up > the starter. > > My first thought was that my solenoid (the part that sends juice from > the battery to the starter) was stuck. I replaced my solenoid, > starter motor, and battery. When everything was in place I connected > the leads on my battery and the jeep turned over (and would have > started) even though the ignition switch (the one on the steering > column) was set to 'off'. So I think the ignition switch on the > steering column is stuck in the 'start' position. > > How do you replace that thing? Where is it, is it right there where > you put the key in? Do I need to take the steering wheel off and get > to it that way? Chilton is pretty useless here, they really don't > show you where it is or how to get at it. > > Next question - which wire on my solenoid comes from the steering > column? I'm considering a simple 'on-off' switch and a starter button > simply because I can't find where the starter switch is on the > steering column. Any advice? > Let's back up a step of two and start over. If you turn the key (Ignition Lock Set) and it does not feel right, then I suggest you have broken parts in the steering column. You have already said that you think that the Ignition Switch is stuck in the START position, I agree. If this is true, then the key will feel odd -- less resistance than you might expect, the lack of detents as it passes through other settings, that sort of thing. I would not mess around trying to install remote start switches, I would fix the broken parts you already have. (I see no point in adding in new parts to break and confuse the situation in 5 or 10 years.) I have an '81 CJ5, and a '95 Ford Bronco, both of which had variations on the same problem you are having. Both had repair parts available on the aftermarket for just a few dollars. Of the two, the Jeep was cheaper and easier to repair, but I digress. You will need to remove the steering wheel and the Steering Lock Plate (you need a special puller for the lock plate. Autozone has a Free Tool Loaner Program that included the lock plate tool, or you can buy a tool for about $10.). When the lock plate is out, you will see the broken linkage parts, and all you need do is devise the proper route to get it out. Whether or not you have Tilt Steering will alter the directions to get the linkage out, and which linkage part you need to repair the trouble. The linkage is a standard GM part. The aftermarket supplier is called HELP Brand, and if I rember right, the blister package is backed with red paper. (There are different colors of blister packs for the various areas of the vehicle that the part(s) in the package are to be used on.) In my case, I found the HELP Brand parts at Pep Boys -- a very large retail autoparts store. I have found HELP parts at other stores, but the small store on the corner by my house simply lacks the floor space to carry a wide selection. Your corner store may carry the part you need, but if they don't then you can drive across town to the huge autoparts store and probably find the right part in stock. |
Re: Wrangler YJ ignition switch problem
<lsaugier@hilcorp.com> wrote in message news:1179519439.326218.307450@k79g2000hse.googlegr oups.com... > Here's what happened: I started my jeep ('87 YJ 4.2L) and the starter > kept cranking, would not disengage. I didn't know what was happening > and drove off. It sucked all the juice out of my battery and burnt up > the starter. > > My first thought was that my solenoid (the part that sends juice from > the battery to the starter) was stuck. I replaced my solenoid, > starter motor, and battery. When everything was in place I connected > the leads on my battery and the jeep turned over (and would have > started) even though the ignition switch (the one on the steering > column) was set to 'off'. So I think the ignition switch on the > steering column is stuck in the 'start' position. > > How do you replace that thing? Where is it, is it right there where > you put the key in? Do I need to take the steering wheel off and get > to it that way? Chilton is pretty useless here, they really don't > show you where it is or how to get at it. > > Next question - which wire on my solenoid comes from the steering > column? I'm considering a simple 'on-off' switch and a starter button > simply because I can't find where the starter switch is on the > steering column. Any advice? > Let's back up a step of two and start over. If you turn the key (Ignition Lock Set) and it does not feel right, then I suggest you have broken parts in the steering column. You have already said that you think that the Ignition Switch is stuck in the START position, I agree. If this is true, then the key will feel odd -- less resistance than you might expect, the lack of detents as it passes through other settings, that sort of thing. I would not mess around trying to install remote start switches, I would fix the broken parts you already have. (I see no point in adding in new parts to break and confuse the situation in 5 or 10 years.) I have an '81 CJ5, and a '95 Ford Bronco, both of which had variations on the same problem you are having. Both had repair parts available on the aftermarket for just a few dollars. Of the two, the Jeep was cheaper and easier to repair, but I digress. You will need to remove the steering wheel and the Steering Lock Plate (you need a special puller for the lock plate. Autozone has a Free Tool Loaner Program that included the lock plate tool, or you can buy a tool for about $10.). When the lock plate is out, you will see the broken linkage parts, and all you need do is devise the proper route to get it out. Whether or not you have Tilt Steering will alter the directions to get the linkage out, and which linkage part you need to repair the trouble. The linkage is a standard GM part. The aftermarket supplier is called HELP Brand, and if I rember right, the blister package is backed with red paper. (There are different colors of blister packs for the various areas of the vehicle that the part(s) in the package are to be used on.) In my case, I found the HELP Brand parts at Pep Boys -- a very large retail autoparts store. I have found HELP parts at other stores, but the small store on the corner by my house simply lacks the floor space to carry a wide selection. Your corner store may carry the part you need, but if they don't then you can drive across town to the huge autoparts store and probably find the right part in stock. |
Re: Wrangler YJ ignition switch problem
<lsaugier@hilcorp.com> wrote in message news:1179519439.326218.307450@k79g2000hse.googlegr oups.com... > Here's what happened: I started my jeep ('87 YJ 4.2L) and the starter > kept cranking, would not disengage. I didn't know what was happening > and drove off. It sucked all the juice out of my battery and burnt up > the starter. > > My first thought was that my solenoid (the part that sends juice from > the battery to the starter) was stuck. I replaced my solenoid, > starter motor, and battery. When everything was in place I connected > the leads on my battery and the jeep turned over (and would have > started) even though the ignition switch (the one on the steering > column) was set to 'off'. So I think the ignition switch on the > steering column is stuck in the 'start' position. > > How do you replace that thing? Where is it, is it right there where > you put the key in? Do I need to take the steering wheel off and get > to it that way? Chilton is pretty useless here, they really don't > show you where it is or how to get at it. > > Next question - which wire on my solenoid comes from the steering > column? I'm considering a simple 'on-off' switch and a starter button > simply because I can't find where the starter switch is on the > steering column. Any advice? > Let's back up a step of two and start over. If you turn the key (Ignition Lock Set) and it does not feel right, then I suggest you have broken parts in the steering column. You have already said that you think that the Ignition Switch is stuck in the START position, I agree. If this is true, then the key will feel odd -- less resistance than you might expect, the lack of detents as it passes through other settings, that sort of thing. I would not mess around trying to install remote start switches, I would fix the broken parts you already have. (I see no point in adding in new parts to break and confuse the situation in 5 or 10 years.) I have an '81 CJ5, and a '95 Ford Bronco, both of which had variations on the same problem you are having. Both had repair parts available on the aftermarket for just a few dollars. Of the two, the Jeep was cheaper and easier to repair, but I digress. You will need to remove the steering wheel and the Steering Lock Plate (you need a special puller for the lock plate. Autozone has a Free Tool Loaner Program that included the lock plate tool, or you can buy a tool for about $10.). When the lock plate is out, you will see the broken linkage parts, and all you need do is devise the proper route to get it out. Whether or not you have Tilt Steering will alter the directions to get the linkage out, and which linkage part you need to repair the trouble. The linkage is a standard GM part. The aftermarket supplier is called HELP Brand, and if I rember right, the blister package is backed with red paper. (There are different colors of blister packs for the various areas of the vehicle that the part(s) in the package are to be used on.) In my case, I found the HELP Brand parts at Pep Boys -- a very large retail autoparts store. I have found HELP parts at other stores, but the small store on the corner by my house simply lacks the floor space to carry a wide selection. Your corner store may carry the part you need, but if they don't then you can drive across town to the huge autoparts store and probably find the right part in stock. |
Re: Wrangler YJ ignition switch problem
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:464e3ec8$0$1964$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >> lsaugier@hilcorp.com wrote: >>> I don't have any evidence that there are any wires burnt out. Given >>> that I've replaced the firewall solenoid, battery, and starter, is >>> there anything else besides an ignition switch that would cause the >>> starter motor to crank uncontrollably? Is it possible I wired the new >>> firewall solenoid wrong and that's what's causing it? That seems >>> unlikely to me. >>> >>> The ignition switch is pretty difficult to get at - I'm still not sure >>> I'm even able to see it. Is there anything in particular I should >>> look for (many wires, few wires, blue clip, white clip, etc) to know >>> that I've definitely found the ignition switch? I see the ignition >>> rod... thingy... disappear down in there somewhere but can't see where >>> it goes. >>> >> >> The switch is at the bottom end of the rod. >> >> As I mentioned, there are two green wires on that firewall >> relay/solenoid unit that are easy to mix then it just starts with >> battery power. >> >> Try swapping them. > > > > WAIT -- STOP > > Mike, > You are going at this from the direction that he screwed up on his > replacement, but his problem began before he did anything and continued > afterward. This tells me that he probably has done nothing wrong, > therefore his Jeep must be broken. > > > > I think his trouble is that the Ignition Lock Set Linkage has broken, > and is holding the Ignition Switch to the START position. As soon as he > connects the battery terminal, the starter motor begins to crank, even > if the key is currently set to OFF. Good call, I won't disagree. If he pulls the switch he will find out. It is easier to do with the door off or open all the way with the strap off. I really was thinking his meltdown got some other wires like the starter trigger because I have seen this happen before. The heat took out the firewall relay and some upstream wires when the relay shorted. Mike |
Re: Wrangler YJ ignition switch problem
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:464e3ec8$0$1964$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >> lsaugier@hilcorp.com wrote: >>> I don't have any evidence that there are any wires burnt out. Given >>> that I've replaced the firewall solenoid, battery, and starter, is >>> there anything else besides an ignition switch that would cause the >>> starter motor to crank uncontrollably? Is it possible I wired the new >>> firewall solenoid wrong and that's what's causing it? That seems >>> unlikely to me. >>> >>> The ignition switch is pretty difficult to get at - I'm still not sure >>> I'm even able to see it. Is there anything in particular I should >>> look for (many wires, few wires, blue clip, white clip, etc) to know >>> that I've definitely found the ignition switch? I see the ignition >>> rod... thingy... disappear down in there somewhere but can't see where >>> it goes. >>> >> >> The switch is at the bottom end of the rod. >> >> As I mentioned, there are two green wires on that firewall >> relay/solenoid unit that are easy to mix then it just starts with >> battery power. >> >> Try swapping them. > > > > WAIT -- STOP > > Mike, > You are going at this from the direction that he screwed up on his > replacement, but his problem began before he did anything and continued > afterward. This tells me that he probably has done nothing wrong, > therefore his Jeep must be broken. > > > > I think his trouble is that the Ignition Lock Set Linkage has broken, > and is holding the Ignition Switch to the START position. As soon as he > connects the battery terminal, the starter motor begins to crank, even > if the key is currently set to OFF. Good call, I won't disagree. If he pulls the switch he will find out. It is easier to do with the door off or open all the way with the strap off. I really was thinking his meltdown got some other wires like the starter trigger because I have seen this happen before. The heat took out the firewall relay and some upstream wires when the relay shorted. Mike |
Re: Wrangler YJ ignition switch problem
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:464e3ec8$0$1964$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >> lsaugier@hilcorp.com wrote: >>> I don't have any evidence that there are any wires burnt out. Given >>> that I've replaced the firewall solenoid, battery, and starter, is >>> there anything else besides an ignition switch that would cause the >>> starter motor to crank uncontrollably? Is it possible I wired the new >>> firewall solenoid wrong and that's what's causing it? That seems >>> unlikely to me. >>> >>> The ignition switch is pretty difficult to get at - I'm still not sure >>> I'm even able to see it. Is there anything in particular I should >>> look for (many wires, few wires, blue clip, white clip, etc) to know >>> that I've definitely found the ignition switch? I see the ignition >>> rod... thingy... disappear down in there somewhere but can't see where >>> it goes. >>> >> >> The switch is at the bottom end of the rod. >> >> As I mentioned, there are two green wires on that firewall >> relay/solenoid unit that are easy to mix then it just starts with >> battery power. >> >> Try swapping them. > > > > WAIT -- STOP > > Mike, > You are going at this from the direction that he screwed up on his > replacement, but his problem began before he did anything and continued > afterward. This tells me that he probably has done nothing wrong, > therefore his Jeep must be broken. > > > > I think his trouble is that the Ignition Lock Set Linkage has broken, > and is holding the Ignition Switch to the START position. As soon as he > connects the battery terminal, the starter motor begins to crank, even > if the key is currently set to OFF. Good call, I won't disagree. If he pulls the switch he will find out. It is easier to do with the door off or open all the way with the strap off. I really was thinking his meltdown got some other wires like the starter trigger because I have seen this happen before. The heat took out the firewall relay and some upstream wires when the relay shorted. Mike |
Re: Wrangler YJ ignition switch problem
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:464e3ec8$0$1964$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >> lsaugier@hilcorp.com wrote: >>> I don't have any evidence that there are any wires burnt out. Given >>> that I've replaced the firewall solenoid, battery, and starter, is >>> there anything else besides an ignition switch that would cause the >>> starter motor to crank uncontrollably? Is it possible I wired the new >>> firewall solenoid wrong and that's what's causing it? That seems >>> unlikely to me. >>> >>> The ignition switch is pretty difficult to get at - I'm still not sure >>> I'm even able to see it. Is there anything in particular I should >>> look for (many wires, few wires, blue clip, white clip, etc) to know >>> that I've definitely found the ignition switch? I see the ignition >>> rod... thingy... disappear down in there somewhere but can't see where >>> it goes. >>> >> >> The switch is at the bottom end of the rod. >> >> As I mentioned, there are two green wires on that firewall >> relay/solenoid unit that are easy to mix then it just starts with >> battery power. >> >> Try swapping them. > > > > WAIT -- STOP > > Mike, > You are going at this from the direction that he screwed up on his > replacement, but his problem began before he did anything and continued > afterward. This tells me that he probably has done nothing wrong, > therefore his Jeep must be broken. > > > > I think his trouble is that the Ignition Lock Set Linkage has broken, > and is holding the Ignition Switch to the START position. As soon as he > connects the battery terminal, the starter motor begins to crank, even > if the key is currently set to OFF. Good call, I won't disagree. If he pulls the switch he will find out. It is easier to do with the door off or open all the way with the strap off. I really was thinking his meltdown got some other wires like the starter trigger because I have seen this happen before. The heat took out the firewall relay and some upstream wires when the relay shorted. Mike |
Re: Wrangler YJ ignition switch problem
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> > <lsaugier@hilcorp.com> wrote in message > news:1179519439.326218.307450@k79g2000hse.googlegr oups.com... >> Here's what happened: I started my jeep ('87 YJ 4.2L) and the starter >> kept cranking, would not disengage. I didn't know what was happening >> and drove off. It sucked all the juice out of my battery and burnt up >> the starter. >> >> My first thought was that my solenoid (the part that sends juice from >> the battery to the starter) was stuck. I replaced my solenoid, >> starter motor, and battery. When everything was in place I connected >> the leads on my battery and the jeep turned over (and would have >> started) even though the ignition switch (the one on the steering >> column) was set to 'off'. So I think the ignition switch on the >> steering column is stuck in the 'start' position. >> >> How do you replace that thing? Where is it, is it right there where >> you put the key in? Do I need to take the steering wheel off and get >> to it that way? Chilton is pretty useless here, they really don't >> show you where it is or how to get at it. >> >> Next question - which wire on my solenoid comes from the steering >> column? I'm considering a simple 'on-off' switch and a starter button >> simply because I can't find where the starter switch is on the >> steering column. Any advice? >> > > > Let's back up a step of two and start over. > I think he should pull the switch at the 'bottom' which is easy first to verify if that is the trouble or not before ripping the wheel apart... Mike |
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