Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.

Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
going on with them a little easier).

So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
great!

Thanks everyone.

/Bob

Applicable specs:
1997 TJ
Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
Stock brakes front and rear.
Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Drum brakes are not that much more complicated than disc brakes. The brake
shoes expand to exert pressure on the inside of the drums, instead of
pinching down on the rotors as what happens in a disc brake. The complexity
is entirely related to positioning the springs and related hardware.




"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406281035.4bbf29ac@posting.google.c om...
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Drum brakes are not that much more complicated than disc brakes. The brake
shoes expand to exert pressure on the inside of the drums, instead of
pinching down on the rotors as what happens in a disc brake. The complexity
is entirely related to positioning the springs and related hardware.




"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406281035.4bbf29ac@posting.google.c om...
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Drum brakes are not that much more complicated than disc brakes. The brake
shoes expand to exert pressure on the inside of the drums, instead of
pinching down on the rotors as what happens in a disc brake. The complexity
is entirely related to positioning the springs and related hardware.




"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406281035.4bbf29ac@posting.google.c om...
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Drum brakes are not that much more complicated than disc brakes. The brake
shoes expand to exert pressure on the inside of the drums, instead of
pinching down on the rotors as what happens in a disc brake. The complexity
is entirely related to positioning the springs and related hardware.




"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406281035.4bbf29ac@posting.google.c om...
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
combination valve?

It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.

The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
combination valve?

It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.

The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
combination valve?

It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.

The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
combination valve?

It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.

The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Hi Bob,
Start out by using a good product Bendix or Raybestos:
http://www.raybestos.com/usa/brakepads.htm
A couple of pictures:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg and
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0913.jpg
The tricks I use with drum brakes, is to remove the wheels and
slide them under the frame for a little extra protection in case I jar
it off it's blocks. Usually the drums stick a little to the hub, I
squirt the lugs and center with with WD-40 and hit it with a hammer at
the drum's edge like you were going push it back on and make it ring
like a bell, usually it pop lose, back at you. Rather than the twenty
years I did blowing the asbestos off with air, I've found that a blast
with the garden hose does a much better job of containing the dust and
cleaning the parts you'll use again, then disassemble. As you
disassemble place the parts on the tire rim you have lying beside you so
as they are in the same position as they look on the backing plate, will
help immensely with the different color coded springs on reassemble. If
you heard a metal to metal sound before you started work on the brakes,
then you may have to poke a small screwdriver through the backing plate
to push the ratchet lever back and release the star, and another to back
it off before the drum will come off.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Hi Bob,
Start out by using a good product Bendix or Raybestos:
http://www.raybestos.com/usa/brakepads.htm
A couple of pictures:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg and
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0913.jpg
The tricks I use with drum brakes, is to remove the wheels and
slide them under the frame for a little extra protection in case I jar
it off it's blocks. Usually the drums stick a little to the hub, I
squirt the lugs and center with with WD-40 and hit it with a hammer at
the drum's edge like you were going push it back on and make it ring
like a bell, usually it pop lose, back at you. Rather than the twenty
years I did blowing the asbestos off with air, I've found that a blast
with the garden hose does a much better job of containing the dust and
cleaning the parts you'll use again, then disassemble. As you
disassemble place the parts on the tire rim you have lying beside you so
as they are in the same position as they look on the backing plate, will
help immensely with the different color coded springs on reassemble. If
you heard a metal to metal sound before you started work on the brakes,
then you may have to poke a small screwdriver through the backing plate
to push the ratchet lever back and release the star, and another to back
it off before the drum will come off.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Hi Bob,
Start out by using a good product Bendix or Raybestos:
http://www.raybestos.com/usa/brakepads.htm
A couple of pictures:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg and
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0913.jpg
The tricks I use with drum brakes, is to remove the wheels and
slide them under the frame for a little extra protection in case I jar
it off it's blocks. Usually the drums stick a little to the hub, I
squirt the lugs and center with with WD-40 and hit it with a hammer at
the drum's edge like you were going push it back on and make it ring
like a bell, usually it pop lose, back at you. Rather than the twenty
years I did blowing the asbestos off with air, I've found that a blast
with the garden hose does a much better job of containing the dust and
cleaning the parts you'll use again, then disassemble. As you
disassemble place the parts on the tire rim you have lying beside you so
as they are in the same position as they look on the backing plate, will
help immensely with the different color coded springs on reassemble. If
you heard a metal to metal sound before you started work on the brakes,
then you may have to poke a small screwdriver through the backing plate
to push the ratchet lever back and release the star, and another to back
it off before the drum will come off.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Hi Bob,
Start out by using a good product Bendix or Raybestos:
http://www.raybestos.com/usa/brakepads.htm
A couple of pictures:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0915.jpg and
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axl...2/DSCN0913.jpg
The tricks I use with drum brakes, is to remove the wheels and
slide them under the frame for a little extra protection in case I jar
it off it's blocks. Usually the drums stick a little to the hub, I
squirt the lugs and center with with WD-40 and hit it with a hammer at
the drum's edge like you were going push it back on and make it ring
like a bell, usually it pop lose, back at you. Rather than the twenty
years I did blowing the asbestos off with air, I've found that a blast
with the garden hose does a much better job of containing the dust and
cleaning the parts you'll use again, then disassemble. As you
disassemble place the parts on the tire rim you have lying beside you so
as they are in the same position as they look on the backing plate, will
help immensely with the different color coded springs on reassemble. If
you heard a metal to metal sound before you started work on the brakes,
then you may have to poke a small screwdriver through the backing plate
to push the ratchet lever back and release the star, and another to back
it off before the drum will come off.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Here is a good site and explanation with photos for servicing drum brakes:

http://www.jeepin.com/features/drums/index.asp

Tom

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406281035.4bbf29ac@posting.google.c om...
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Here is a good site and explanation with photos for servicing drum brakes:

http://www.jeepin.com/features/drums/index.asp

Tom

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406281035.4bbf29ac@posting.google.c om...
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Here is a good site and explanation with photos for servicing drum brakes:

http://www.jeepin.com/features/drums/index.asp

Tom

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406281035.4bbf29ac@posting.google.c om...
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Here is a good site and explanation with photos for servicing drum brakes:

http://www.jeepin.com/features/drums/index.asp

Tom

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406281035.4bbf29ac@posting.google.c om...
> Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
>
> Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> going on with them a little easier).
>
> So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> great!
>
> Thanks everyone.
>
> /Bob
>
> Applicable specs:
> 1997 TJ
> Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> Stock brakes front and rear.
> Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
front/rear?


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> combination valve?
>
> It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
>
> The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Bob wrote:
> >
> > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> >
> > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > going on with them a little easier).
> >
> > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > great!
> >
> > Thanks everyone.
> >
> > /Bob
> >
> > Applicable specs:
> > 1997 TJ
> > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
front/rear?


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> combination valve?
>
> It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
>
> The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Bob wrote:
> >
> > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> >
> > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > going on with them a little easier).
> >
> > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > great!
> >
> > Thanks everyone.
> >
> > /Bob
> >
> > Applicable specs:
> > 1997 TJ
> > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
front/rear?


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> combination valve?
>
> It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
>
> The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Bob wrote:
> >
> > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> >
> > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > going on with them a little easier).
> >
> > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > great!
> >
> > Thanks everyone.
> >
> > /Bob
> >
> > Applicable specs:
> > 1997 TJ
> > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
front/rear?


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> combination valve?
>
> It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
>
> The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Bob wrote:
> >
> > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> >
> > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > going on with them a little easier).
> >
> > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > great!
> >
> > Thanks everyone.
> >
> > /Bob
> >
> > Applicable specs:
> > 1997 TJ
> > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share of
the braking, probably 80 to 90%.

Tom


"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:T72Ec.5$T6i.0@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.roger s.com...
> is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> front/rear?
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > combination valve?
> >
> > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> >
> > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
snip

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share of
the braking, probably 80 to 90%.

Tom


"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:T72Ec.5$T6i.0@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.roger s.com...
> is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> front/rear?
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > combination valve?
> >
> > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> >
> > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
snip

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share of
the braking, probably 80 to 90%.

Tom


"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:T72Ec.5$T6i.0@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.roger s.com...
> is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> front/rear?
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > combination valve?
> >
> > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> >
> > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
snip

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share of
the braking, probably 80 to 90%.

Tom


"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:T72Ec.5$T6i.0@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.roger s.com...
> is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> front/rear?
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > combination valve?
> >
> > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> >
> > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
snip

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Yes.

It is a bit more complicated than just a 60/40 split. On pickups and
Jeeps it really tries to never lock the rears while keeping braking. It
plays with the pressures.

Mike

SB wrote:
>
> is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> front/rear?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > combination valve?
> >
> > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> >
> > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Bob wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> > > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> > > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> > > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> > > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > > going on with them a little easier).
> > >
> > > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> > > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> > > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> > > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > > great!
> > >
> > > Thanks everyone.
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > Applicable specs:
> > > 1997 TJ
> > > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Yes.

It is a bit more complicated than just a 60/40 split. On pickups and
Jeeps it really tries to never lock the rears while keeping braking. It
plays with the pressures.

Mike

SB wrote:
>
> is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> front/rear?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > combination valve?
> >
> > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> >
> > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Bob wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> > > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> > > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> > > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> > > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > > going on with them a little easier).
> > >
> > > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> > > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> > > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> > > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > > great!
> > >
> > > Thanks everyone.
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > Applicable specs:
> > > 1997 TJ
> > > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Yes.

It is a bit more complicated than just a 60/40 split. On pickups and
Jeeps it really tries to never lock the rears while keeping braking. It
plays with the pressures.

Mike

SB wrote:
>
> is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> front/rear?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > combination valve?
> >
> > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> >
> > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Bob wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> > > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> > > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> > > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> > > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > > going on with them a little easier).
> > >
> > > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> > > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> > > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> > > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > > great!
> > >
> > > Thanks everyone.
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > Applicable specs:
> > > 1997 TJ
> > > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Yes.

It is a bit more complicated than just a 60/40 split. On pickups and
Jeeps it really tries to never lock the rears while keeping braking. It
plays with the pressures.

Mike

SB wrote:
>
> is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> front/rear?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > combination valve?
> >
> > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> >
> > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Bob wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent brake
> > > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I want
> > > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for info
> > > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what I
> > > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > > going on with them a little easier).
> > >
> > > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to instructions
> > > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be awesome.
> > > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I should
> > > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > > great!
> > >
> > > Thanks everyone.
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > Applicable specs:
> > > 1997 TJ
> > > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Wow...do the front actually do that much?

Sure feels like it the way the front dives down....
actually shared an arse clenching experience with a dog today! Nosed down
and skidded....but all's ok!


"mabar" <mabar@NoSpamgrbonline.com> wrote in message
news:W-OdnQ9Kgs_ZK33dRVn-sA@gbronline.com...
> Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
> distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
> much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share
of
> the braking, probably 80 to 90%.
>
> Tom
>
>
> "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:T72Ec.5$T6i.0@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.roger s.com...
> > is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> > front/rear?
> >
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > > combination valve?
> > >
> > > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> > >
> > > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> snip
>
>

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Wow...do the front actually do that much?

Sure feels like it the way the front dives down....
actually shared an arse clenching experience with a dog today! Nosed down
and skidded....but all's ok!


"mabar" <mabar@NoSpamgrbonline.com> wrote in message
news:W-OdnQ9Kgs_ZK33dRVn-sA@gbronline.com...
> Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
> distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
> much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share
of
> the braking, probably 80 to 90%.
>
> Tom
>
>
> "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:T72Ec.5$T6i.0@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.roger s.com...
> > is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> > front/rear?
> >
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > > combination valve?
> > >
> > > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> > >
> > > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> snip
>
>

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Wow...do the front actually do that much?

Sure feels like it the way the front dives down....
actually shared an arse clenching experience with a dog today! Nosed down
and skidded....but all's ok!


"mabar" <mabar@NoSpamgrbonline.com> wrote in message
news:W-OdnQ9Kgs_ZK33dRVn-sA@gbronline.com...
> Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
> distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
> much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share
of
> the braking, probably 80 to 90%.
>
> Tom
>
>
> "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:T72Ec.5$T6i.0@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.roger s.com...
> > is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> > front/rear?
> >
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > > combination valve?
> > >
> > > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> > >
> > > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> snip
>
>

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Wow...do the front actually do that much?

Sure feels like it the way the front dives down....
actually shared an arse clenching experience with a dog today! Nosed down
and skidded....but all's ok!


"mabar" <mabar@NoSpamgrbonline.com> wrote in message
news:W-OdnQ9Kgs_ZK33dRVn-sA@gbronline.com...
> Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
> distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
> much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share
of
> the braking, probably 80 to 90%.
>
> Tom
>
>
> "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:T72Ec.5$T6i.0@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.roger s.com...
> > is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> > front/rear?
> >
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > > combination valve?
> > >
> > > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> > >
> > > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> snip
>
>

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Oh, it's an "on the fly" type of doo-hickey!
On the older muscle cars, wasn't it something that you set by a knob and
left? Or was there a way to do a real time adjust on that too?!


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40E0BDC0.F6D2B9C7@sympatico.ca...
> Yes.
>
> It is a bit more complicated than just a 60/40 split. On pickups and
> Jeeps it really tries to never lock the rears while keeping braking. It
> plays with the pressures.
>
> Mike
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> > front/rear?
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > > combination valve?
> > >
> > > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> > >
> > > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Bob wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent
brake
> > > > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I
want
> > > > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for
info
> > > > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > > > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what
I
> > > > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > > > going on with them a little easier).
> > > >
> > > > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to
instructions
> > > > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be
awesome.
> > > > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > > > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > > > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I
should
> > > > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > > > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > > > great!
> > > >
> > > > Thanks everyone.
> > > >
> > > > /Bob
> > > >
> > > > Applicable specs:
> > > > 1997 TJ
> > > > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > > > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > > > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > > > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Oh, it's an "on the fly" type of doo-hickey!
On the older muscle cars, wasn't it something that you set by a knob and
left? Or was there a way to do a real time adjust on that too?!


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40E0BDC0.F6D2B9C7@sympatico.ca...
> Yes.
>
> It is a bit more complicated than just a 60/40 split. On pickups and
> Jeeps it really tries to never lock the rears while keeping braking. It
> plays with the pressures.
>
> Mike
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> > front/rear?
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > > combination valve?
> > >
> > > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> > >
> > > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Bob wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent
brake
> > > > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I
want
> > > > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for
info
> > > > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > > > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what
I
> > > > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > > > going on with them a little easier).
> > > >
> > > > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to
instructions
> > > > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be
awesome.
> > > > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > > > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > > > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I
should
> > > > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > > > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > > > great!
> > > >
> > > > Thanks everyone.
> > > >
> > > > /Bob
> > > >
> > > > Applicable specs:
> > > > 1997 TJ
> > > > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > > > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > > > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > > > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Oh, it's an "on the fly" type of doo-hickey!
On the older muscle cars, wasn't it something that you set by a knob and
left? Or was there a way to do a real time adjust on that too?!


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40E0BDC0.F6D2B9C7@sympatico.ca...
> Yes.
>
> It is a bit more complicated than just a 60/40 split. On pickups and
> Jeeps it really tries to never lock the rears while keeping braking. It
> plays with the pressures.
>
> Mike
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> > front/rear?
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > > combination valve?
> > >
> > > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> > >
> > > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Bob wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent
brake
> > > > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I
want
> > > > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for
info
> > > > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > > > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what
I
> > > > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > > > going on with them a little easier).
> > > >
> > > > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to
instructions
> > > > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be
awesome.
> > > > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > > > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > > > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I
should
> > > > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > > > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > > > great!
> > > >
> > > > Thanks everyone.
> > > >
> > > > /Bob
> > > >
> > > > Applicable specs:
> > > > 1997 TJ
> > > > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > > > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > > > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > > > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Oh, it's an "on the fly" type of doo-hickey!
On the older muscle cars, wasn't it something that you set by a knob and
left? Or was there a way to do a real time adjust on that too?!


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40E0BDC0.F6D2B9C7@sympatico.ca...
> Yes.
>
> It is a bit more complicated than just a 60/40 split. On pickups and
> Jeeps it really tries to never lock the rears while keeping braking. It
> plays with the pressures.
>
> Mike
>
> SB wrote:
> >
> > is that like a proportioning valve? Give the 60/40 braking on the
> > front/rear?
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40E08500.A9E6738F@sympatico.ca...
> > > Are you sure you aren't just seeing the effects of a properly working
> > > combination valve?
> > >
> > > It acts like an anti lock brake for the rear wheels so they don't lock
> > > up easy if at all. Normally you don't want the rears locking, you can
> > > do 360's faster than you can blink if the rears lock up at speed.
> > >
> > > The combination valve stops them from locking until you are almost
> > > stopped even if you really mash the pedal down.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Bob wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey...I am about to pull my brakes apart due to some persistent
brake
> > > > fade issues (dry or wet) I've been having with my rear brakes; I
want
> > > > to make sure everything is ok/fix whatever's wrong with them.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, I'm going to start scouring the 'Net tonight to look for
info
> > > > how to work on brakes, diagrams, instructions, etc., especially for
> > > > the rear drums (the front discs are more straight-forward from what
I
> > > > understand, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to figure out what's
> > > > going on with them a little easier).
> > > >
> > > > So, if anyone out there can provide me with any links to
instructions
> > > > they've found particularly useful in the past, that would be
awesome.
> > > > Pictures and diagrams are great, too. Bill, if you feel inclined to
> > > > put up a link to the appropriate section from the FSM or something,
> > > > that'd be awesome too. Also, any tips or suggestions what all I
should
> > > > do when servicing and checking my brakes (beyond the obvious
> > > > inspection and replacement if necessary of the pads...) would be
> > > > great!
> > > >
> > > > Thanks everyone.
> > > >
> > > > /Bob
> > > >
> > > > Applicable specs:
> > > > 1997 TJ
> > > > Dana 44 Rear (drum brakes)
> > > > Dana 30 Front (disc brakes)
> > > > Stock brakes front and rear.
> > > > Last brake service performed 15 months ago.

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Yep. On most cars, the front brakes do about 70% (+) of the braking. On the
TJ, because of the extra short wheelbase, the fronts
do MUCH more of the braking. The rears do very little of the actual braking.

Try this test. Raise the rear wheels off the ground with a floor jack or
jack stands. With the engine at IDLE and with the transfer case in 2-wheel
drive, put the transmission in drive or 1st gear, then try to stop the rear
wheels from moving with only the foot brake. On my 6-cyl TJ with 3.73 rear
axel ratio, it is almost impossible to stop the rears, even while mashing
the foot brake with all my might. Applying the parking brake will stop the
rears easily.

Tom

"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:O94Ec.322$T6i.195@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.r ogers.com...
> Wow...do the front actually do that much?
>
> Sure feels like it the way the front dives down....
> actually shared an arse clenching experience with a dog today! Nosed down
> and skidded....but all's ok!
>
>
> "mabar" <mabar@NoSpamgrbonline.com> wrote in message
> news:W-OdnQ9Kgs_ZK33dRVn-sA@gbronline.com...
> > Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
> > distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
> > much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share
> of
> > the braking, probably 80 to 90%.
> >
> > Tom

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Yep. On most cars, the front brakes do about 70% (+) of the braking. On the
TJ, because of the extra short wheelbase, the fronts
do MUCH more of the braking. The rears do very little of the actual braking.

Try this test. Raise the rear wheels off the ground with a floor jack or
jack stands. With the engine at IDLE and with the transfer case in 2-wheel
drive, put the transmission in drive or 1st gear, then try to stop the rear
wheels from moving with only the foot brake. On my 6-cyl TJ with 3.73 rear
axel ratio, it is almost impossible to stop the rears, even while mashing
the foot brake with all my might. Applying the parking brake will stop the
rears easily.

Tom

"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:O94Ec.322$T6i.195@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.r ogers.com...
> Wow...do the front actually do that much?
>
> Sure feels like it the way the front dives down....
> actually shared an arse clenching experience with a dog today! Nosed down
> and skidded....but all's ok!
>
>
> "mabar" <mabar@NoSpamgrbonline.com> wrote in message
> news:W-OdnQ9Kgs_ZK33dRVn-sA@gbronline.com...
> > Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
> > distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
> > much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share
> of
> > the braking, probably 80 to 90%.
> >
> > Tom

Re: Working on Brakes (especially Rear Drums) - TJ
 

Yep. On most cars, the front brakes do about 70% (+) of the braking. On the
TJ, because of the extra short wheelbase, the fronts
do MUCH more of the braking. The rears do very little of the actual braking.

Try this test. Raise the rear wheels off the ground with a floor jack or
jack stands. With the engine at IDLE and with the transfer case in 2-wheel
drive, put the transmission in drive or 1st gear, then try to stop the rear
wheels from moving with only the foot brake. On my 6-cyl TJ with 3.73 rear
axel ratio, it is almost impossible to stop the rears, even while mashing
the foot brake with all my might. Applying the parking brake will stop the
rears easily.

Tom

"SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:O94Ec.322$T6i.195@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.r ogers.com...
> Wow...do the front actually do that much?
>
> Sure feels like it the way the front dives down....
> actually shared an arse clenching experience with a dog today! Nosed down
> and skidded....but all's ok!
>
>
> "mabar" <mabar@NoSpamgrbonline.com> wrote in message
> news:W-OdnQ9Kgs_ZK33dRVn-sA@gbronline.com...
> > Exactly. A combination valve is also called a proportioning valve. It
> > distributes the braking power heavily to the front brakes and
> > much less so to the rears. On a TJ, the front brakes do the lion's share
> of
> > the braking, probably 80 to 90%.
> >
> > Tom