nrs

On Sep 3, 2:10 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
> ufatbastehd proclaimed:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 3, 12:58 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>On Sep 3, 11:38 am, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>>On Sep 3, 12:31 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>Went on a wheeling trip this weekend and had some problems with the
> >>>>'95 YJ, 2.5L, AX5. The check engine light would not turn on and the
> >>>>fuel pump was not activating. Engine would turn over fine but would
> >>>>not start. Also dash would illuminate, fuel gauge activated, etc. It
> >>>>did start after trying many more times and once started would run
> >>>>perfectly, no misses, no stalling, no hesitation. Any ideas? Thanks,
> >>>>Neale
>
> >>>CPS?
>
> >>Might be but I think the check engine light and fuel pump should still
> >>run for a short while with the key on RUN even if the CPS is bad. I
> >>don't know, maybe a bad ground or bad computer?
>
> > I've had a ground problem with my fuel pump but it did affect the gas
> > gauge, the gas gauge pegs to full when the fuel pump cuts out. I think
> > the check engine light acted as usual. You stated your gas gauge
> > activated so it could be another issue/ground
> > There is a fuel pump ground that's by the e-brake mounting brackets
> > on most YJs.
>
> > I havn't found the bad ground yet as my YJ has no grounds on the e
> > brake mounting cable.
>
> Does sound like a bad ground, or possibly just bad battery connect. IF
> it truly runs after starting, the alternator would appear to be able to
> pump enough juice to keep voltage up even with a bad ground or cabling- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for that idea, I hadn't thought about that possibility. I'm
still thinking bad ground because the starter works well so maybe it
is just the ground to the computer that is bad. I'll try cleaning all
ground straps and connections and get a new battery since it may be
getting old (was in jeep when I bought it about 1.5 years ago).

Lon

nrs proclaimed:

> On Sep 3, 2:10 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>ufatbastehd proclaimed:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>On Sep 3, 12:58 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>On Sep 3, 11:38 am, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>>On Sep 3, 12:31 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>>>Went on a wheeling trip this weekend and had some problems with the
>>>>>>'95 YJ, 2.5L, AX5. The check engine light would not turn on and the
>>>>>>fuel pump was not activating. Engine would turn over fine but would
>>>>>>not start. Also dash would illuminate, fuel gauge activated, etc. It
>>>>>>did start after trying many more times and once started would run
>>>>>>perfectly, no misses, no stalling, no hesitation. Any ideas? Thanks,
>>>>>>Neale
>>
>>>>>CPS?
>>
>>>>Might be but I think the check engine light and fuel pump should still
>>>>run for a short while with the key on RUN even if the CPS is bad. I
>>>>don't know, maybe a bad ground or bad computer?
>>
>>>I've had a ground problem with my fuel pump but it did affect the gas
>>>gauge, the gas gauge pegs to full when the fuel pump cuts out. I think
>>>the check engine light acted as usual. You stated your gas gauge
>>>activated so it could be another issue/ground
>>>There is a fuel pump ground that's by the e-brake mounting brackets
>>>on most YJs.
>>
>>>I havn't found the bad ground yet as my YJ has no grounds on the e
>>>brake mounting cable.
>>
>>Does sound like a bad ground, or possibly just bad battery connect. IF
>>it truly runs after starting, the alternator would appear to be able to
>>pump enough juice to keep voltage up even with a bad ground or cabling- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> Thanks for that idea, I hadn't thought about that possibility. I'm
> still thinking bad ground because the starter works well so maybe it
> is just the ground to the computer that is bad. I'll try cleaning all
> ground straps and connections and get a new battery since it may be
> getting old (was in jeep when I bought it about 1.5 years ago).

If you don't know the history of that battery, it never hurts, some of
the cheapest cab fare and tow truck charge prevention available.

If you don't already have one, pick up an inexpensive digital
volt-ohmmeter. You want a digital, as checking grounds and power
cables requires better than 1 tenth volt accuracy. More accurate than
using an ohmmeter.

First run your engine so the battery is presumably charged and at
operating temperature.

Then turn your engine off.

Turn your headlights on bright for at least 30 seconds, then turn them
off.

Wait 5 to 10 minutes.

Pull the negative lead at the battery.

Measure across the battery. Absolute minimum 12.4 volts [this is the
open circuit test] Then hook up the negative lead again.

True load test is expensive equipment, but mostly free at any place that
sells batteries.

To test current drain with the key off. Pull the key, pull the
negative lead. Hook an ammeter set at the very highest scale between
the battery post and the negative lead. Reasonable typical drain is 20
milliamps. Turn your meter down slowly to lower scales to check.
[Starting at the highest scale helps keep the magic smoke inside the
meter where it belongs]

Easiest way to check cables is to measure the voltage across them.
Again, start on at least a 12 volt scale at each reading, then turn the
scale down so you can easily see a voltage of 1 to 2 tenths of a volt.

Measure from each battery post to the connector at that post. With the
engine cranking, you should never see as much as 2 tenths of a volt from
each post to its connector.

Measure from the negative post [not the connector] to body ground and
then again to engine ground. With the engine cranking, absolute highest
reading should be 2 tenths of a volt. Anything higher, you got a bad
connect or cable.

Check from positive post [not the connector] down to the starter
solenoid. With engine cranking, again, no more than 2 tenths of a volt.
If you can reach across the solenoid, measure straight from the battery
positive post to the input to the starter while cranking. Again, no
more than 2 tenths of a volt.

If you find a higher reading, just move the meter leads until you find
the connection with the highest reading, take it apart and clean the
snot out of it, put back together and retry.

Lather, rinse, repeat.

Lon

nrs proclaimed:

> On Sep 3, 2:10 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>ufatbastehd proclaimed:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>On Sep 3, 12:58 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>On Sep 3, 11:38 am, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>>On Sep 3, 12:31 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>>>Went on a wheeling trip this weekend and had some problems with the
>>>>>>'95 YJ, 2.5L, AX5. The check engine light would not turn on and the
>>>>>>fuel pump was not activating. Engine would turn over fine but would
>>>>>>not start. Also dash would illuminate, fuel gauge activated, etc. It
>>>>>>did start after trying many more times and once started would run
>>>>>>perfectly, no misses, no stalling, no hesitation. Any ideas? Thanks,
>>>>>>Neale
>>
>>>>>CPS?
>>
>>>>Might be but I think the check engine light and fuel pump should still
>>>>run for a short while with the key on RUN even if the CPS is bad. I
>>>>don't know, maybe a bad ground or bad computer?
>>
>>>I've had a ground problem with my fuel pump but it did affect the gas
>>>gauge, the gas gauge pegs to full when the fuel pump cuts out. I think
>>>the check engine light acted as usual. You stated your gas gauge
>>>activated so it could be another issue/ground
>>>There is a fuel pump ground that's by the e-brake mounting brackets
>>>on most YJs.
>>
>>>I havn't found the bad ground yet as my YJ has no grounds on the e
>>>brake mounting cable.
>>
>>Does sound like a bad ground, or possibly just bad battery connect. IF
>>it truly runs after starting, the alternator would appear to be able to
>>pump enough juice to keep voltage up even with a bad ground or cabling- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> Thanks for that idea, I hadn't thought about that possibility. I'm
> still thinking bad ground because the starter works well so maybe it
> is just the ground to the computer that is bad. I'll try cleaning all
> ground straps and connections and get a new battery since it may be
> getting old (was in jeep when I bought it about 1.5 years ago).

If you don't know the history of that battery, it never hurts, some of
the cheapest cab fare and tow truck charge prevention available.

If you don't already have one, pick up an inexpensive digital
volt-ohmmeter. You want a digital, as checking grounds and power
cables requires better than 1 tenth volt accuracy. More accurate than
using an ohmmeter.

First run your engine so the battery is presumably charged and at
operating temperature.

Then turn your engine off.

Turn your headlights on bright for at least 30 seconds, then turn them
off.

Wait 5 to 10 minutes.

Pull the negative lead at the battery.

Measure across the battery. Absolute minimum 12.4 volts [this is the
open circuit test] Then hook up the negative lead again.

True load test is expensive equipment, but mostly free at any place that
sells batteries.

To test current drain with the key off. Pull the key, pull the
negative lead. Hook an ammeter set at the very highest scale between
the battery post and the negative lead. Reasonable typical drain is 20
milliamps. Turn your meter down slowly to lower scales to check.
[Starting at the highest scale helps keep the magic smoke inside the
meter where it belongs]

Easiest way to check cables is to measure the voltage across them.
Again, start on at least a 12 volt scale at each reading, then turn the
scale down so you can easily see a voltage of 1 to 2 tenths of a volt.

Measure from each battery post to the connector at that post. With the
engine cranking, you should never see as much as 2 tenths of a volt from
each post to its connector.

Measure from the negative post [not the connector] to body ground and
then again to engine ground. With the engine cranking, absolute highest
reading should be 2 tenths of a volt. Anything higher, you got a bad
connect or cable.

Check from positive post [not the connector] down to the starter
solenoid. With engine cranking, again, no more than 2 tenths of a volt.
If you can reach across the solenoid, measure straight from the battery
positive post to the input to the starter while cranking. Again, no
more than 2 tenths of a volt.

If you find a higher reading, just move the meter leads until you find
the connection with the highest reading, take it apart and clean the
snot out of it, put back together and retry.

Lather, rinse, repeat.

Lon

nrs proclaimed:

> On Sep 3, 2:10 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>ufatbastehd proclaimed:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>On Sep 3, 12:58 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>On Sep 3, 11:38 am, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>>On Sep 3, 12:31 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>>>Went on a wheeling trip this weekend and had some problems with the
>>>>>>'95 YJ, 2.5L, AX5. The check engine light would not turn on and the
>>>>>>fuel pump was not activating. Engine would turn over fine but would
>>>>>>not start. Also dash would illuminate, fuel gauge activated, etc. It
>>>>>>did start after trying many more times and once started would run
>>>>>>perfectly, no misses, no stalling, no hesitation. Any ideas? Thanks,
>>>>>>Neale
>>
>>>>>CPS?
>>
>>>>Might be but I think the check engine light and fuel pump should still
>>>>run for a short while with the key on RUN even if the CPS is bad. I
>>>>don't know, maybe a bad ground or bad computer?
>>
>>>I've had a ground problem with my fuel pump but it did affect the gas
>>>gauge, the gas gauge pegs to full when the fuel pump cuts out. I think
>>>the check engine light acted as usual. You stated your gas gauge
>>>activated so it could be another issue/ground
>>>There is a fuel pump ground that's by the e-brake mounting brackets
>>>on most YJs.
>>
>>>I havn't found the bad ground yet as my YJ has no grounds on the e
>>>brake mounting cable.
>>
>>Does sound like a bad ground, or possibly just bad battery connect. IF
>>it truly runs after starting, the alternator would appear to be able to
>>pump enough juice to keep voltage up even with a bad ground or cabling- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> Thanks for that idea, I hadn't thought about that possibility. I'm
> still thinking bad ground because the starter works well so maybe it
> is just the ground to the computer that is bad. I'll try cleaning all
> ground straps and connections and get a new battery since it may be
> getting old (was in jeep when I bought it about 1.5 years ago).

If you don't know the history of that battery, it never hurts, some of
the cheapest cab fare and tow truck charge prevention available.

If you don't already have one, pick up an inexpensive digital
volt-ohmmeter. You want a digital, as checking grounds and power
cables requires better than 1 tenth volt accuracy. More accurate than
using an ohmmeter.

First run your engine so the battery is presumably charged and at
operating temperature.

Then turn your engine off.

Turn your headlights on bright for at least 30 seconds, then turn them
off.

Wait 5 to 10 minutes.

Pull the negative lead at the battery.

Measure across the battery. Absolute minimum 12.4 volts [this is the
open circuit test] Then hook up the negative lead again.

True load test is expensive equipment, but mostly free at any place that
sells batteries.

To test current drain with the key off. Pull the key, pull the
negative lead. Hook an ammeter set at the very highest scale between
the battery post and the negative lead. Reasonable typical drain is 20
milliamps. Turn your meter down slowly to lower scales to check.
[Starting at the highest scale helps keep the magic smoke inside the
meter where it belongs]

Easiest way to check cables is to measure the voltage across them.
Again, start on at least a 12 volt scale at each reading, then turn the
scale down so you can easily see a voltage of 1 to 2 tenths of a volt.

Measure from each battery post to the connector at that post. With the
engine cranking, you should never see as much as 2 tenths of a volt from
each post to its connector.

Measure from the negative post [not the connector] to body ground and
then again to engine ground. With the engine cranking, absolute highest
reading should be 2 tenths of a volt. Anything higher, you got a bad
connect or cable.

Check from positive post [not the connector] down to the starter
solenoid. With engine cranking, again, no more than 2 tenths of a volt.
If you can reach across the solenoid, measure straight from the battery
positive post to the input to the starter while cranking. Again, no
more than 2 tenths of a volt.

If you find a higher reading, just move the meter leads until you find
the connection with the highest reading, take it apart and clean the
snot out of it, put back together and retry.

Lather, rinse, repeat.

Lon

nrs proclaimed:

> On Sep 3, 2:10 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>ufatbastehd proclaimed:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>On Sep 3, 12:58 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>On Sep 3, 11:38 am, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>>On Sep 3, 12:31 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>>>Went on a wheeling trip this weekend and had some problems with the
>>>>>>'95 YJ, 2.5L, AX5. The check engine light would not turn on and the
>>>>>>fuel pump was not activating. Engine would turn over fine but would
>>>>>>not start. Also dash would illuminate, fuel gauge activated, etc. It
>>>>>>did start after trying many more times and once started would run
>>>>>>perfectly, no misses, no stalling, no hesitation. Any ideas? Thanks,
>>>>>>Neale
>>
>>>>>CPS?
>>
>>>>Might be but I think the check engine light and fuel pump should still
>>>>run for a short while with the key on RUN even if the CPS is bad. I
>>>>don't know, maybe a bad ground or bad computer?
>>
>>>I've had a ground problem with my fuel pump but it did affect the gas
>>>gauge, the gas gauge pegs to full when the fuel pump cuts out. I think
>>>the check engine light acted as usual. You stated your gas gauge
>>>activated so it could be another issue/ground
>>>There is a fuel pump ground that's by the e-brake mounting brackets
>>>on most YJs.
>>
>>>I havn't found the bad ground yet as my YJ has no grounds on the e
>>>brake mounting cable.
>>
>>Does sound like a bad ground, or possibly just bad battery connect. IF
>>it truly runs after starting, the alternator would appear to be able to
>>pump enough juice to keep voltage up even with a bad ground or cabling- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> Thanks for that idea, I hadn't thought about that possibility. I'm
> still thinking bad ground because the starter works well so maybe it
> is just the ground to the computer that is bad. I'll try cleaning all
> ground straps and connections and get a new battery since it may be
> getting old (was in jeep when I bought it about 1.5 years ago).

If you don't know the history of that battery, it never hurts, some of
the cheapest cab fare and tow truck charge prevention available.

If you don't already have one, pick up an inexpensive digital
volt-ohmmeter. You want a digital, as checking grounds and power
cables requires better than 1 tenth volt accuracy. More accurate than
using an ohmmeter.

First run your engine so the battery is presumably charged and at
operating temperature.

Then turn your engine off.

Turn your headlights on bright for at least 30 seconds, then turn them
off.

Wait 5 to 10 minutes.

Pull the negative lead at the battery.

Measure across the battery. Absolute minimum 12.4 volts [this is the
open circuit test] Then hook up the negative lead again.

True load test is expensive equipment, but mostly free at any place that
sells batteries.

To test current drain with the key off. Pull the key, pull the
negative lead. Hook an ammeter set at the very highest scale between
the battery post and the negative lead. Reasonable typical drain is 20
milliamps. Turn your meter down slowly to lower scales to check.
[Starting at the highest scale helps keep the magic smoke inside the
meter where it belongs]

Easiest way to check cables is to measure the voltage across them.
Again, start on at least a 12 volt scale at each reading, then turn the
scale down so you can easily see a voltage of 1 to 2 tenths of a volt.

Measure from each battery post to the connector at that post. With the
engine cranking, you should never see as much as 2 tenths of a volt from
each post to its connector.

Measure from the negative post [not the connector] to body ground and
then again to engine ground. With the engine cranking, absolute highest
reading should be 2 tenths of a volt. Anything higher, you got a bad
connect or cable.

Check from positive post [not the connector] down to the starter
solenoid. With engine cranking, again, no more than 2 tenths of a volt.
If you can reach across the solenoid, measure straight from the battery
positive post to the input to the starter while cranking. Again, no
more than 2 tenths of a volt.

If you find a higher reading, just move the meter leads until you find
the connection with the highest reading, take it apart and clean the
snot out of it, put back together and retry.

Lather, rinse, repeat.

nrs

On Sep 3, 3:58 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
> nrs proclaimed:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 3, 2:10 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >>ufatbastehd proclaimed:
>
> >>>On Sep 3, 12:58 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>On Sep 3, 11:38 am, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>On Sep 3, 12:31 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>>Went on a wheeling trip this weekend and had some problems with the
> >>>>>>'95 YJ, 2.5L, AX5. The check engine light would not turn on and the
> >>>>>>fuel pump was not activating. Engine would turn over fine but would
> >>>>>>not start. Also dash would illuminate, fuel gauge activated, etc. It
> >>>>>>did start after trying many more times and once started would run
> >>>>>>perfectly, no misses, no stalling, no hesitation. Any ideas? Thanks,
> >>>>>>Neale
>
> >>>>>CPS?
>
> >>>>Might be but I think the check engine light and fuel pump should still
> >>>>run for a short while with the key on RUN even if the CPS is bad. I
> >>>>don't know, maybe a bad ground or bad computer?
>
> >>>I've had a ground problem with my fuel pump but it did affect the gas
> >>>gauge, the gas gauge pegs to full when the fuel pump cuts out. I think
> >>>the check engine light acted as usual. You stated your gas gauge
> >>>activated so it could be another issue/ground
> >>>There is a fuel pump ground that's by the e-brake mounting brackets
> >>>on most YJs.
>
> >>>I havn't found the bad ground yet as my YJ has no grounds on the e
> >>>brake mounting cable.
>
> >>Does sound like a bad ground, or possibly just bad battery connect. IF
> >>it truly runs after starting, the alternator would appear to be able to
> >>pump enough juice to keep voltage up even with a bad ground or cabling- Hide quoted text -
>
> >>- Show quoted text -
>
> > Thanks for that idea, I hadn't thought about that possibility. I'm
> > still thinking bad ground because the starter works well so maybe it
> > is just the ground to the computer that is bad. I'll try cleaning all
> > ground straps and connections and get a new battery since it may be
> > getting old (was in jeep when I bought it about 1.5 years ago).
>
> If you don't know the history of that battery, it never hurts, some of
> the cheapest cab fare and tow truck charge prevention available.
>
> If you don't already have one, pick up an inexpensive digital
> volt-ohmmeter. You want a digital, as checking grounds and power
> cables requires better than 1 tenth volt accuracy. More accurate than
> using an ohmmeter.
>
> First run your engine so the battery is presumably charged and at
> operating temperature.
>
> Then turn your engine off.
>
> Turn your headlights on bright for at least 30 seconds, then turn them
> off.
>
> Wait 5 to 10 minutes.
>
> Pull the negative lead at the battery.
>
> Measure across the battery. Absolute minimum 12.4 volts [this is the
> open circuit test] Then hook up the negative lead again.
>
> True load test is expensive equipment, but mostly free at any place that
> sells batteries.
>
> To test current drain with the key off. Pull the key, pull the
> negative lead. Hook an ammeter set at the very highest scale between
> the battery post and the negative lead. Reasonable typical drain is 20
> milliamps. Turn your meter down slowly to lower scales to check.
> [Starting at the highest scale helps keep the magic smoke inside the
> meter where it belongs]
>
> Easiest way to check cables is to measure the voltage across them.
> Again, start on at least a 12 volt scale at each reading, then turn the
> scale down so you can easily see a voltage of 1 to 2 tenths of a volt.
>
> Measure from each battery post to the connector at that post. With the
> engine cranking, you should never see as much as 2 tenths of a volt from
> each post to its connector.
>
> Measure from the negative post [not the connector] to body ground and
> then again to engine ground. With the engine cranking, absolute highest
> reading should be 2 tenths of a volt. Anything higher, you got a bad
> connect or cable.
>
> Check from positive post [not the connector] down to the starter
> solenoid. With engine cranking, again, no more than 2 tenths of a volt.
> If you can reach across the solenoid, measure straight from the battery
> positive post to the input to the starter while cranking. Again, no
> more than 2 tenths of a volt.
>
> If you find a higher reading, just move the meter leads until you find
> the connection with the highest reading, take it apart and clean the
> snot out of it, put back together and retry.
>
> Lather, rinse, repeat.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for the procedure. I'll do this and then report the results.
May take me a while...

nrs

On Sep 3, 3:58 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
> nrs proclaimed:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 3, 2:10 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >>ufatbastehd proclaimed:
>
> >>>On Sep 3, 12:58 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>On Sep 3, 11:38 am, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>On Sep 3, 12:31 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>>Went on a wheeling trip this weekend and had some problems with the
> >>>>>>'95 YJ, 2.5L, AX5. The check engine light would not turn on and the
> >>>>>>fuel pump was not activating. Engine would turn over fine but would
> >>>>>>not start. Also dash would illuminate, fuel gauge activated, etc. It
> >>>>>>did start after trying many more times and once started would run
> >>>>>>perfectly, no misses, no stalling, no hesitation. Any ideas? Thanks,
> >>>>>>Neale
>
> >>>>>CPS?
>
> >>>>Might be but I think the check engine light and fuel pump should still
> >>>>run for a short while with the key on RUN even if the CPS is bad. I
> >>>>don't know, maybe a bad ground or bad computer?
>
> >>>I've had a ground problem with my fuel pump but it did affect the gas
> >>>gauge, the gas gauge pegs to full when the fuel pump cuts out. I think
> >>>the check engine light acted as usual. You stated your gas gauge
> >>>activated so it could be another issue/ground
> >>>There is a fuel pump ground that's by the e-brake mounting brackets
> >>>on most YJs.
>
> >>>I havn't found the bad ground yet as my YJ has no grounds on the e
> >>>brake mounting cable.
>
> >>Does sound like a bad ground, or possibly just bad battery connect. IF
> >>it truly runs after starting, the alternator would appear to be able to
> >>pump enough juice to keep voltage up even with a bad ground or cabling- Hide quoted text -
>
> >>- Show quoted text -
>
> > Thanks for that idea, I hadn't thought about that possibility. I'm
> > still thinking bad ground because the starter works well so maybe it
> > is just the ground to the computer that is bad. I'll try cleaning all
> > ground straps and connections and get a new battery since it may be
> > getting old (was in jeep when I bought it about 1.5 years ago).
>
> If you don't know the history of that battery, it never hurts, some of
> the cheapest cab fare and tow truck charge prevention available.
>
> If you don't already have one, pick up an inexpensive digital
> volt-ohmmeter. You want a digital, as checking grounds and power
> cables requires better than 1 tenth volt accuracy. More accurate than
> using an ohmmeter.
>
> First run your engine so the battery is presumably charged and at
> operating temperature.
>
> Then turn your engine off.
>
> Turn your headlights on bright for at least 30 seconds, then turn them
> off.
>
> Wait 5 to 10 minutes.
>
> Pull the negative lead at the battery.
>
> Measure across the battery. Absolute minimum 12.4 volts [this is the
> open circuit test] Then hook up the negative lead again.
>
> True load test is expensive equipment, but mostly free at any place that
> sells batteries.
>
> To test current drain with the key off. Pull the key, pull the
> negative lead. Hook an ammeter set at the very highest scale between
> the battery post and the negative lead. Reasonable typical drain is 20
> milliamps. Turn your meter down slowly to lower scales to check.
> [Starting at the highest scale helps keep the magic smoke inside the
> meter where it belongs]
>
> Easiest way to check cables is to measure the voltage across them.
> Again, start on at least a 12 volt scale at each reading, then turn the
> scale down so you can easily see a voltage of 1 to 2 tenths of a volt.
>
> Measure from each battery post to the connector at that post. With the
> engine cranking, you should never see as much as 2 tenths of a volt from
> each post to its connector.
>
> Measure from the negative post [not the connector] to body ground and
> then again to engine ground. With the engine cranking, absolute highest
> reading should be 2 tenths of a volt. Anything higher, you got a bad
> connect or cable.
>
> Check from positive post [not the connector] down to the starter
> solenoid. With engine cranking, again, no more than 2 tenths of a volt.
> If you can reach across the solenoid, measure straight from the battery
> positive post to the input to the starter while cranking. Again, no
> more than 2 tenths of a volt.
>
> If you find a higher reading, just move the meter leads until you find
> the connection with the highest reading, take it apart and clean the
> snot out of it, put back together and retry.
>
> Lather, rinse, repeat.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for the procedure. I'll do this and then report the results.
May take me a while...

nrs

On Sep 3, 3:58 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
> nrs proclaimed:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 3, 2:10 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >>ufatbastehd proclaimed:
>
> >>>On Sep 3, 12:58 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>On Sep 3, 11:38 am, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>On Sep 3, 12:31 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>>Went on a wheeling trip this weekend and had some problems with the
> >>>>>>'95 YJ, 2.5L, AX5. The check engine light would not turn on and the
> >>>>>>fuel pump was not activating. Engine would turn over fine but would
> >>>>>>not start. Also dash would illuminate, fuel gauge activated, etc. It
> >>>>>>did start after trying many more times and once started would run
> >>>>>>perfectly, no misses, no stalling, no hesitation. Any ideas? Thanks,
> >>>>>>Neale
>
> >>>>>CPS?
>
> >>>>Might be but I think the check engine light and fuel pump should still
> >>>>run for a short while with the key on RUN even if the CPS is bad. I
> >>>>don't know, maybe a bad ground or bad computer?
>
> >>>I've had a ground problem with my fuel pump but it did affect the gas
> >>>gauge, the gas gauge pegs to full when the fuel pump cuts out. I think
> >>>the check engine light acted as usual. You stated your gas gauge
> >>>activated so it could be another issue/ground
> >>>There is a fuel pump ground that's by the e-brake mounting brackets
> >>>on most YJs.
>
> >>>I havn't found the bad ground yet as my YJ has no grounds on the e
> >>>brake mounting cable.
>
> >>Does sound like a bad ground, or possibly just bad battery connect. IF
> >>it truly runs after starting, the alternator would appear to be able to
> >>pump enough juice to keep voltage up even with a bad ground or cabling- Hide quoted text -
>
> >>- Show quoted text -
>
> > Thanks for that idea, I hadn't thought about that possibility. I'm
> > still thinking bad ground because the starter works well so maybe it
> > is just the ground to the computer that is bad. I'll try cleaning all
> > ground straps and connections and get a new battery since it may be
> > getting old (was in jeep when I bought it about 1.5 years ago).
>
> If you don't know the history of that battery, it never hurts, some of
> the cheapest cab fare and tow truck charge prevention available.
>
> If you don't already have one, pick up an inexpensive digital
> volt-ohmmeter. You want a digital, as checking grounds and power
> cables requires better than 1 tenth volt accuracy. More accurate than
> using an ohmmeter.
>
> First run your engine so the battery is presumably charged and at
> operating temperature.
>
> Then turn your engine off.
>
> Turn your headlights on bright for at least 30 seconds, then turn them
> off.
>
> Wait 5 to 10 minutes.
>
> Pull the negative lead at the battery.
>
> Measure across the battery. Absolute minimum 12.4 volts [this is the
> open circuit test] Then hook up the negative lead again.
>
> True load test is expensive equipment, but mostly free at any place that
> sells batteries.
>
> To test current drain with the key off. Pull the key, pull the
> negative lead. Hook an ammeter set at the very highest scale between
> the battery post and the negative lead. Reasonable typical drain is 20
> milliamps. Turn your meter down slowly to lower scales to check.
> [Starting at the highest scale helps keep the magic smoke inside the
> meter where it belongs]
>
> Easiest way to check cables is to measure the voltage across them.
> Again, start on at least a 12 volt scale at each reading, then turn the
> scale down so you can easily see a voltage of 1 to 2 tenths of a volt.
>
> Measure from each battery post to the connector at that post. With the
> engine cranking, you should never see as much as 2 tenths of a volt from
> each post to its connector.
>
> Measure from the negative post [not the connector] to body ground and
> then again to engine ground. With the engine cranking, absolute highest
> reading should be 2 tenths of a volt. Anything higher, you got a bad
> connect or cable.
>
> Check from positive post [not the connector] down to the starter
> solenoid. With engine cranking, again, no more than 2 tenths of a volt.
> If you can reach across the solenoid, measure straight from the battery
> positive post to the input to the starter while cranking. Again, no
> more than 2 tenths of a volt.
>
> If you find a higher reading, just move the meter leads until you find
> the connection with the highest reading, take it apart and clean the
> snot out of it, put back together and retry.
>
> Lather, rinse, repeat.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for the procedure. I'll do this and then report the results.
May take me a while...

nrs

On Sep 3, 3:58 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
> nrs proclaimed:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 3, 2:10 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >>ufatbastehd proclaimed:
>
> >>>On Sep 3, 12:58 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>On Sep 3, 11:38 am, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>On Sep 3, 12:31 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>>Went on a wheeling trip this weekend and had some problems with the
> >>>>>>'95 YJ, 2.5L, AX5. The check engine light would not turn on and the
> >>>>>>fuel pump was not activating. Engine would turn over fine but would
> >>>>>>not start. Also dash would illuminate, fuel gauge activated, etc. It
> >>>>>>did start after trying many more times and once started would run
> >>>>>>perfectly, no misses, no stalling, no hesitation. Any ideas? Thanks,
> >>>>>>Neale
>
> >>>>>CPS?
>
> >>>>Might be but I think the check engine light and fuel pump should still
> >>>>run for a short while with the key on RUN even if the CPS is bad. I
> >>>>don't know, maybe a bad ground or bad computer?
>
> >>>I've had a ground problem with my fuel pump but it did affect the gas
> >>>gauge, the gas gauge pegs to full when the fuel pump cuts out. I think
> >>>the check engine light acted as usual. You stated your gas gauge
> >>>activated so it could be another issue/ground
> >>>There is a fuel pump ground that's by the e-brake mounting brackets
> >>>on most YJs.
>
> >>>I havn't found the bad ground yet as my YJ has no grounds on the e
> >>>brake mounting cable.
>
> >>Does sound like a bad ground, or possibly just bad battery connect. IF
> >>it truly runs after starting, the alternator would appear to be able to
> >>pump enough juice to keep voltage up even with a bad ground or cabling- Hide quoted text -
>
> >>- Show quoted text -
>
> > Thanks for that idea, I hadn't thought about that possibility. I'm
> > still thinking bad ground because the starter works well so maybe it
> > is just the ground to the computer that is bad. I'll try cleaning all
> > ground straps and connections and get a new battery since it may be
> > getting old (was in jeep when I bought it about 1.5 years ago).
>
> If you don't know the history of that battery, it never hurts, some of
> the cheapest cab fare and tow truck charge prevention available.
>
> If you don't already have one, pick up an inexpensive digital
> volt-ohmmeter. You want a digital, as checking grounds and power
> cables requires better than 1 tenth volt accuracy. More accurate than
> using an ohmmeter.
>
> First run your engine so the battery is presumably charged and at
> operating temperature.
>
> Then turn your engine off.
>
> Turn your headlights on bright for at least 30 seconds, then turn them
> off.
>
> Wait 5 to 10 minutes.
>
> Pull the negative lead at the battery.
>
> Measure across the battery. Absolute minimum 12.4 volts [this is the
> open circuit test] Then hook up the negative lead again.
>
> True load test is expensive equipment, but mostly free at any place that
> sells batteries.
>
> To test current drain with the key off. Pull the key, pull the
> negative lead. Hook an ammeter set at the very highest scale between
> the battery post and the negative lead. Reasonable typical drain is 20
> milliamps. Turn your meter down slowly to lower scales to check.
> [Starting at the highest scale helps keep the magic smoke inside the
> meter where it belongs]
>
> Easiest way to check cables is to measure the voltage across them.
> Again, start on at least a 12 volt scale at each reading, then turn the
> scale down so you can easily see a voltage of 1 to 2 tenths of a volt.
>
> Measure from each battery post to the connector at that post. With the
> engine cranking, you should never see as much as 2 tenths of a volt from
> each post to its connector.
>
> Measure from the negative post [not the connector] to body ground and
> then again to engine ground. With the engine cranking, absolute highest
> reading should be 2 tenths of a volt. Anything higher, you got a bad
> connect or cable.
>
> Check from positive post [not the connector] down to the starter
> solenoid. With engine cranking, again, no more than 2 tenths of a volt.
> If you can reach across the solenoid, measure straight from the battery
> positive post to the input to the starter while cranking. Again, no
> more than 2 tenths of a volt.
>
> If you find a higher reading, just move the meter leads until you find
> the connection with the highest reading, take it apart and clean the
> snot out of it, put back together and retry.
>
> Lather, rinse, repeat.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for the procedure. I'll do this and then report the results.
May take me a while...

nrs

On Sep 3, 3:58 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
> nrs proclaimed:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 3, 2:10 pm, Lon <lon.stow...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >>ufatbastehd proclaimed:
>
> >>>On Sep 3, 12:58 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>On Sep 3, 11:38 am, ufatbastehd <ufatbas...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>On Sep 3, 12:31 pm, nrs <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >>>>>>Went on a wheeling trip this weekend and had some problems with the
> >>>>>>'95 YJ, 2.5L, AX5. The check engine light would not turn on and the
> >>>>>>fuel pump was not activating. Engine would turn over fine but would
> >>>>>>not start. Also dash would illuminate, fuel gauge activated, etc. It
> >>>>>>did start after trying many more times and once started would run
> >>>>>>perfectly, no misses, no stalling, no hesitation. Any ideas? Thanks,
> >>>>>>Neale
>
> >>>>>CPS?
>
> >>>>Might be but I think the check engine light and fuel pump should still
> >>>>run for a short while with the key on RUN even if the CPS is bad. I
> >>>>don't know, maybe a bad ground or bad computer?
>
> >>>I've had a ground problem with my fuel pump but it did affect the gas
> >>>gauge, the gas gauge pegs to full when the fuel pump cuts out. I think
> >>>the check engine light acted as usual. You stated your gas gauge
> >>>activated so it could be another issue/ground
> >>>There is a fuel pump ground that's by the e-brake mounting brackets
> >>>on most YJs.
>
> >>>I havn't found the bad ground yet as my YJ has no grounds on the e
> >>>brake mounting cable.
>
> >>Does sound like a bad ground, or possibly just bad battery connect. IF
> >>it truly runs after starting, the alternator would appear to be able to
> >>pump enough juice to keep voltage up even with a bad ground or cabling- Hide quoted text -
>
> >>- Show quoted text -
>
> > Thanks for that idea, I hadn't thought about that possibility. I'm
> > still thinking bad ground because the starter works well so maybe it
> > is just the ground to the computer that is bad. I'll try cleaning all
> > ground straps and connections and get a new battery since it may be
> > getting old (was in jeep when I bought it about 1.5 years ago).
>
> If you don't know the history of that battery, it never hurts, some of
> the cheapest cab fare and tow truck charge prevention available.
>
> If you don't already have one, pick up an inexpensive digital
> volt-ohmmeter. You want a digital, as checking grounds and power
> cables requires better than 1 tenth volt accuracy. More accurate than
> using an ohmmeter.
>
> First run your engine so the battery is presumably charged and at
> operating temperature.
>
> Then turn your engine off.
>
> Turn your headlights on bright for at least 30 seconds, then turn them
> off.
>
> Wait 5 to 10 minutes.
>
> Pull the negative lead at the battery.
>
> Measure across the battery. Absolute minimum 12.4 volts [this is the
> open circuit test] Then hook up the negative lead again.
>
> True load test is expensive equipment, but mostly free at any place that
> sells batteries.
>
> To test current drain with the key off. Pull the key, pull the
> negative lead. Hook an ammeter set at the very highest scale between
> the battery post and the negative lead. Reasonable typical drain is 20
> milliamps. Turn your meter down slowly to lower scales to check.
> [Starting at the highest scale helps keep the magic smoke inside the
> meter where it belongs]
>
> Easiest way to check cables is to measure the voltage across them.
> Again, start on at least a 12 volt scale at each reading, then turn the
> scale down so you can easily see a voltage of 1 to 2 tenths of a volt.
>
> Measure from each battery post to the connector at that post. With the
> engine cranking, you should never see as much as 2 tenths of a volt from
> each post to its connector.
>
> Measure from the negative post [not the connector] to body ground and
> then again to engine ground. With the engine cranking, absolute highest
> reading should be 2 tenths of a volt. Anything higher, you got a bad
> connect or cable.
>
> Check from positive post [not the connector] down to the starter
> solenoid. With engine cranking, again, no more than 2 tenths of a volt.
> If you can reach across the solenoid, measure straight from the battery
> positive post to the input to the starter while cranking. Again, no
> more than 2 tenths of a volt.
>
> If you find a higher reading, just move the meter leads until you find
> the connection with the highest reading, take it apart and clean the
> snot out of it, put back together and retry.
>
> Lather, rinse, repeat.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Here is an update, positive but not very satisfying. Yesterday I made
sure all the fuses were OK and pushed them in firmly. Tried to start
and no go. Then I checked the voltages at the relay cavities to see if
the battery voltage was present whith the ignition on RUN (and not
present with ignition off). It was fine so it looks like the ignition
switch is not the problem. I then checked at the computer data link
and it had a ground and power from the ignition. I then turned off
the ignition and turned it back to RUN and the check engine light came
on! I was pretty surprised. I then put the relays back in and it
started right up. Since then I have started it about 3 times with no
problems and have verified about 20-30 times that the fuel pump runs
each time the ignition switch goes to RUN. Also, no relevant codes
come up with the on-off-on-off-on method. It seems to be working fine
now. What bothers me is that I didn't do anything to fix it and this
type of fix tends to unfix later. Could the computer have been reset
in some way when checking at the data link?