travis

On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 13:36:15 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"
<beerman@yahoo.com> shared the following:


>
>The linkage is all rods and levers and springs, there is no cable.
>
>

OK. It still sounds like adjusting it will be very easy.

>
>No clutch stopper behind my clutch pedal. I have an '81, which should be
>identical to the '78 that you found.

OK, good information. Thank you.


>Real Jeeps do not "burn out". You really need to get that out of your
>system. Your CJ is a top heavy, narrow and short vehicle. This means it is
>very unstable. It will not tolerate being driven like a Porsche or a
>Mustang.

I wasn't trying to really "burn out." I was only trying to make sure
the front wheels were being driven when I was in 4WD. If I'd just
taken off slowly on the grass then I don't know how I'd have been able
to tell whether or not the 4WD was working correctly unless I gunned
the motor enough to cause the front tires to slip. Hey, I even want
to replace the glasspacks with something more quiet. :-)

>It sounds like a keeper.

Cool. I'm looking forward to getting a call within the hour to find
out if they're going to accept my offer or not. *fingers crossed*



--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!

travis

>On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 13:36:15 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"
><beerman@yahoo.com> shared the following:

<snip>

>>Real Jeeps do not "burn out". You really need to get that out of your
>>system. Your CJ is a top heavy, narrow and short vehicle.

Oh yeah, but I have to say I love the sound of the combination of the
first two words of your last sentence above. *grin*



--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!

travis

>On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 13:36:15 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"
><beerman@yahoo.com> shared the following:

<snip>

>>Real Jeeps do not "burn out". You really need to get that out of your
>>system. Your CJ is a top heavy, narrow and short vehicle.

Oh yeah, but I have to say I love the sound of the combination of the
first two words of your last sentence above. *grin*



--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!

travis

>On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 13:36:15 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"
><beerman@yahoo.com> shared the following:

<snip>

>>Real Jeeps do not "burn out". You really need to get that out of your
>>system. Your CJ is a top heavy, narrow and short vehicle.

Oh yeah, but I have to say I love the sound of the combination of the
first two words of your last sentence above. *grin*



--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!

Mike Romain

Just adjust it until you have 1/2" of free play up top and see where it
grabs.

You 'don't' want the pedal running out of travel either at the top or
bottom. 2 or 3" up from the floor for the 'grab' point is how the
manual says to set it with that 1/2" up top.

If it differs from this, then you might have to have a closer look at
it.

Mike

travis wrote:
>
> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 16:41:51 -0400, Mike Romain
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
>
> >The pedal on a CJ should have 1/2 to 3/4" inch of free play at the top.
> >
> >It should be able to be set anywhere from the floor to just up top
> >though. I have mine set a bit higher than I like so my wife who is
> >short can drive it easier so I only have a flicker of free play at the
> >top.
> >
> >If the pedal travel is stopping/binding before the floor, the linkage is
> >physically running out of movement. This could maybe make bad things
> >happen to a throw out bearing.
> >
> >I had a throw out bearing that was sticking on the tranny nose cone and
> >had to keep adjusting it until my pedal ran out of travel above the
> >floor. The shift point soon reached this point and that was it, I was
> >done. All the fingers had worn of the centerforce clutch pressureplate
> >from the throw out bearing riding on them.
> >
> >Adjusted the way you describe would keep the throw out bearing on the
> >pressure plate and it will need a new clutch very soon.
> >
> >It is only a five minute adjustment. You go where the linkage goes into
> >the bell housing and you will see a 3" or so long hex rod with a lock
> >nut on a threaded rod. Crack loose the lock nut and spin the longer hex
> >rod.
> >
> >Mike
>
> This sounds very much like the way I had to adjust my VW clutch. I
> think what I'll do is adjust it waaaay out so that the even when I
> press the pedal all of the way to the floor I feel basically no
> resistance and then slowly tighten it back up until I feel resistance
> at the right points and am able to shift between gears with the pedal
> fully depressed. There is currently no free play at all at the top.
> Like as soon as I touch the pedal there is resistance. I really think
> the adjustment is out-of-whack. I'm glad to hear it's as easy to
> adjust this as what I'm used to. Thanks for all of the responses!!!
> :-)
>
> >
> >travis wrote:
> >>
> >> How about that clutch pedal feel I mentioned? Does it sound to y'all
> >> like it is probably as simple as an adjustment needed?
> >>
> >> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 15:32:46 -0400, Mike Romain
> >> <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
> >>
> >> >Sounds sweet.
> >> >
> >> >I don't know the pricing in your area, but around here that is a decent
> >> >one.
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >travis wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 02:07:50 GMT, "Nathan Collier"
> >> >> <JeepMail@7SlotGrille.com> shared the following:
> >> >>
> >> >> >kick *** travis...good luck!
> >> >>
> >> >> I made him an offer! I went out to check it out. '78 CJ-7 with 304
> >> >> and 3-speed. It looked pretty good. Not perfect but I wasn't
> >> >> expecting it to be. Just little things like broken glass on the
> >> >> speedo, a missing ****, some rust on the tailgate that was mostly
> >> >> covered by the spare but the rest of the body was solid except for a
> >> >> tiny crack on the driver's side at the bottom where the door opening
> >> >> is. The floorboards had been patched. Other than that just minor
> >> >> surface rust in a couple of spots and a few tiny dings here and there.
> >> >> The oil looked good, not brand new but not black. It started right
> >> >> up. Two pumps of the gas pedal, turn the key and VROOM! Headers and
> >> >> glasspacks right now. Sounds pretty wicked. Minor header gasket leak
> >> >> on driver's side that's minor enough that I didn't even notice it
> >> >> until I opened the hood. No visible cracks in the frame. I crawled
> >> >> around underneath it and it looked good. No leaks that I could see.
> >> >> Looks like some kind of aftermarket helper-coil-springs are in the
> >> >> back to cure sag or give it a inch or so of lift? He let me test
> >> >> drive it... The one thing that makes me a little nervous is the
> >> >> clutch. He tells me a guy just put in a new clutch (and that the
> >> >> tranny was also just rebuilt by another dude) but that he thinks the
> >> >> clutch is not adjusted right. That's what it felt like to me, too.
> >> >> If you push the clutch about 75% of the way to the floor then the
> >> >> tranny shifts just fine, no grinding, no sticking. Just shifts
> >> >> perfect. If you try to fully depress the clutch pedal then it feels
> >> >> like the clutch cable is too short and that it just runs out of travel
> >> >> and then you start to hear a faint grinding-like sound. I had a VERY
> >> >> similar problem with my old VW where the clutch cable just wasn't
> >> >> adjusted correctly and after adjusting it everything was ok. Does
> >> >> that sound to you guys like what the deal is here probably? Are these
> >> >> clutches easy to adjust? I wonder if there's supposed to be a "clutch
> >> >> stop" behind the clutch pedal and it's missing? Hmm... Anyway, he
> >> >> wants $3,800 for it and I offered $3,200. It's his friend's Jeep so
> >> >> he's gonna call his friend tonight at 6pm and let him know my offer
> >> >> and then call me back to let me know what he says. What do y'all
> >> >> think? I mean about the clutch? It felt nice and smooth like I said
> >> >> as long as I didn't fully depress it, and when I released the clutch
> >> >> it engaged just fine. No slipping or anything like that. Oh yeah, I
> >> >> also tested the 4WD and 4WD low by burning out (with the guy's
> >> >> permission) in his back yard to be sure I could see chunks of lawn fly
> >> >> off of all 4 wheels. Seemed to work great. A little "clunky" like a
> >> >> vague feeling shifting between 4WD high/low and 2WD but I suspect
> >> >> that's probably kinda normal. So what's up? I'm psyched!!! Should I
> >> >> not answer my phone tonight and run away from this one or does it
> >> >> sound like it might be worth the $$$ to y'all? Thanks for your input!
> >> >>
> >> >> --
> >> >> Travis
> >> >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> >> >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> >> >> :wq!
> >>
> >> --
> >> Travis
> >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> >> :wq!
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!

Mike Romain

Just adjust it until you have 1/2" of free play up top and see where it
grabs.

You 'don't' want the pedal running out of travel either at the top or
bottom. 2 or 3" up from the floor for the 'grab' point is how the
manual says to set it with that 1/2" up top.

If it differs from this, then you might have to have a closer look at
it.

Mike

travis wrote:
>
> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 16:41:51 -0400, Mike Romain
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
>
> >The pedal on a CJ should have 1/2 to 3/4" inch of free play at the top.
> >
> >It should be able to be set anywhere from the floor to just up top
> >though. I have mine set a bit higher than I like so my wife who is
> >short can drive it easier so I only have a flicker of free play at the
> >top.
> >
> >If the pedal travel is stopping/binding before the floor, the linkage is
> >physically running out of movement. This could maybe make bad things
> >happen to a throw out bearing.
> >
> >I had a throw out bearing that was sticking on the tranny nose cone and
> >had to keep adjusting it until my pedal ran out of travel above the
> >floor. The shift point soon reached this point and that was it, I was
> >done. All the fingers had worn of the centerforce clutch pressureplate
> >from the throw out bearing riding on them.
> >
> >Adjusted the way you describe would keep the throw out bearing on the
> >pressure plate and it will need a new clutch very soon.
> >
> >It is only a five minute adjustment. You go where the linkage goes into
> >the bell housing and you will see a 3" or so long hex rod with a lock
> >nut on a threaded rod. Crack loose the lock nut and spin the longer hex
> >rod.
> >
> >Mike
>
> This sounds very much like the way I had to adjust my VW clutch. I
> think what I'll do is adjust it waaaay out so that the even when I
> press the pedal all of the way to the floor I feel basically no
> resistance and then slowly tighten it back up until I feel resistance
> at the right points and am able to shift between gears with the pedal
> fully depressed. There is currently no free play at all at the top.
> Like as soon as I touch the pedal there is resistance. I really think
> the adjustment is out-of-whack. I'm glad to hear it's as easy to
> adjust this as what I'm used to. Thanks for all of the responses!!!
> :-)
>
> >
> >travis wrote:
> >>
> >> How about that clutch pedal feel I mentioned? Does it sound to y'all
> >> like it is probably as simple as an adjustment needed?
> >>
> >> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 15:32:46 -0400, Mike Romain
> >> <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
> >>
> >> >Sounds sweet.
> >> >
> >> >I don't know the pricing in your area, but around here that is a decent
> >> >one.
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >travis wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 02:07:50 GMT, "Nathan Collier"
> >> >> <JeepMail@7SlotGrille.com> shared the following:
> >> >>
> >> >> >kick *** travis...good luck!
> >> >>
> >> >> I made him an offer! I went out to check it out. '78 CJ-7 with 304
> >> >> and 3-speed. It looked pretty good. Not perfect but I wasn't
> >> >> expecting it to be. Just little things like broken glass on the
> >> >> speedo, a missing ****, some rust on the tailgate that was mostly
> >> >> covered by the spare but the rest of the body was solid except for a
> >> >> tiny crack on the driver's side at the bottom where the door opening
> >> >> is. The floorboards had been patched. Other than that just minor
> >> >> surface rust in a couple of spots and a few tiny dings here and there.
> >> >> The oil looked good, not brand new but not black. It started right
> >> >> up. Two pumps of the gas pedal, turn the key and VROOM! Headers and
> >> >> glasspacks right now. Sounds pretty wicked. Minor header gasket leak
> >> >> on driver's side that's minor enough that I didn't even notice it
> >> >> until I opened the hood. No visible cracks in the frame. I crawled
> >> >> around underneath it and it looked good. No leaks that I could see.
> >> >> Looks like some kind of aftermarket helper-coil-springs are in the
> >> >> back to cure sag or give it a inch or so of lift? He let me test
> >> >> drive it... The one thing that makes me a little nervous is the
> >> >> clutch. He tells me a guy just put in a new clutch (and that the
> >> >> tranny was also just rebuilt by another dude) but that he thinks the
> >> >> clutch is not adjusted right. That's what it felt like to me, too.
> >> >> If you push the clutch about 75% of the way to the floor then the
> >> >> tranny shifts just fine, no grinding, no sticking. Just shifts
> >> >> perfect. If you try to fully depress the clutch pedal then it feels
> >> >> like the clutch cable is too short and that it just runs out of travel
> >> >> and then you start to hear a faint grinding-like sound. I had a VERY
> >> >> similar problem with my old VW where the clutch cable just wasn't
> >> >> adjusted correctly and after adjusting it everything was ok. Does
> >> >> that sound to you guys like what the deal is here probably? Are these
> >> >> clutches easy to adjust? I wonder if there's supposed to be a "clutch
> >> >> stop" behind the clutch pedal and it's missing? Hmm... Anyway, he
> >> >> wants $3,800 for it and I offered $3,200. It's his friend's Jeep so
> >> >> he's gonna call his friend tonight at 6pm and let him know my offer
> >> >> and then call me back to let me know what he says. What do y'all
> >> >> think? I mean about the clutch? It felt nice and smooth like I said
> >> >> as long as I didn't fully depress it, and when I released the clutch
> >> >> it engaged just fine. No slipping or anything like that. Oh yeah, I
> >> >> also tested the 4WD and 4WD low by burning out (with the guy's
> >> >> permission) in his back yard to be sure I could see chunks of lawn fly
> >> >> off of all 4 wheels. Seemed to work great. A little "clunky" like a
> >> >> vague feeling shifting between 4WD high/low and 2WD but I suspect
> >> >> that's probably kinda normal. So what's up? I'm psyched!!! Should I
> >> >> not answer my phone tonight and run away from this one or does it
> >> >> sound like it might be worth the $$$ to y'all? Thanks for your input!
> >> >>
> >> >> --
> >> >> Travis
> >> >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> >> >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> >> >> :wq!
> >>
> >> --
> >> Travis
> >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> >> :wq!
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!

Mike Romain

Just adjust it until you have 1/2" of free play up top and see where it
grabs.

You 'don't' want the pedal running out of travel either at the top or
bottom. 2 or 3" up from the floor for the 'grab' point is how the
manual says to set it with that 1/2" up top.

If it differs from this, then you might have to have a closer look at
it.

Mike

travis wrote:
>
> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 16:41:51 -0400, Mike Romain
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
>
> >The pedal on a CJ should have 1/2 to 3/4" inch of free play at the top.
> >
> >It should be able to be set anywhere from the floor to just up top
> >though. I have mine set a bit higher than I like so my wife who is
> >short can drive it easier so I only have a flicker of free play at the
> >top.
> >
> >If the pedal travel is stopping/binding before the floor, the linkage is
> >physically running out of movement. This could maybe make bad things
> >happen to a throw out bearing.
> >
> >I had a throw out bearing that was sticking on the tranny nose cone and
> >had to keep adjusting it until my pedal ran out of travel above the
> >floor. The shift point soon reached this point and that was it, I was
> >done. All the fingers had worn of the centerforce clutch pressureplate
> >from the throw out bearing riding on them.
> >
> >Adjusted the way you describe would keep the throw out bearing on the
> >pressure plate and it will need a new clutch very soon.
> >
> >It is only a five minute adjustment. You go where the linkage goes into
> >the bell housing and you will see a 3" or so long hex rod with a lock
> >nut on a threaded rod. Crack loose the lock nut and spin the longer hex
> >rod.
> >
> >Mike
>
> This sounds very much like the way I had to adjust my VW clutch. I
> think what I'll do is adjust it waaaay out so that the even when I
> press the pedal all of the way to the floor I feel basically no
> resistance and then slowly tighten it back up until I feel resistance
> at the right points and am able to shift between gears with the pedal
> fully depressed. There is currently no free play at all at the top.
> Like as soon as I touch the pedal there is resistance. I really think
> the adjustment is out-of-whack. I'm glad to hear it's as easy to
> adjust this as what I'm used to. Thanks for all of the responses!!!
> :-)
>
> >
> >travis wrote:
> >>
> >> How about that clutch pedal feel I mentioned? Does it sound to y'all
> >> like it is probably as simple as an adjustment needed?
> >>
> >> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 15:32:46 -0400, Mike Romain
> >> <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
> >>
> >> >Sounds sweet.
> >> >
> >> >I don't know the pricing in your area, but around here that is a decent
> >> >one.
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >travis wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 02:07:50 GMT, "Nathan Collier"
> >> >> <JeepMail@7SlotGrille.com> shared the following:
> >> >>
> >> >> >kick *** travis...good luck!
> >> >>
> >> >> I made him an offer! I went out to check it out. '78 CJ-7 with 304
> >> >> and 3-speed. It looked pretty good. Not perfect but I wasn't
> >> >> expecting it to be. Just little things like broken glass on the
> >> >> speedo, a missing ****, some rust on the tailgate that was mostly
> >> >> covered by the spare but the rest of the body was solid except for a
> >> >> tiny crack on the driver's side at the bottom where the door opening
> >> >> is. The floorboards had been patched. Other than that just minor
> >> >> surface rust in a couple of spots and a few tiny dings here and there.
> >> >> The oil looked good, not brand new but not black. It started right
> >> >> up. Two pumps of the gas pedal, turn the key and VROOM! Headers and
> >> >> glasspacks right now. Sounds pretty wicked. Minor header gasket leak
> >> >> on driver's side that's minor enough that I didn't even notice it
> >> >> until I opened the hood. No visible cracks in the frame. I crawled
> >> >> around underneath it and it looked good. No leaks that I could see.
> >> >> Looks like some kind of aftermarket helper-coil-springs are in the
> >> >> back to cure sag or give it a inch or so of lift? He let me test
> >> >> drive it... The one thing that makes me a little nervous is the
> >> >> clutch. He tells me a guy just put in a new clutch (and that the
> >> >> tranny was also just rebuilt by another dude) but that he thinks the
> >> >> clutch is not adjusted right. That's what it felt like to me, too.
> >> >> If you push the clutch about 75% of the way to the floor then the
> >> >> tranny shifts just fine, no grinding, no sticking. Just shifts
> >> >> perfect. If you try to fully depress the clutch pedal then it feels
> >> >> like the clutch cable is too short and that it just runs out of travel
> >> >> and then you start to hear a faint grinding-like sound. I had a VERY
> >> >> similar problem with my old VW where the clutch cable just wasn't
> >> >> adjusted correctly and after adjusting it everything was ok. Does
> >> >> that sound to you guys like what the deal is here probably? Are these
> >> >> clutches easy to adjust? I wonder if there's supposed to be a "clutch
> >> >> stop" behind the clutch pedal and it's missing? Hmm... Anyway, he
> >> >> wants $3,800 for it and I offered $3,200. It's his friend's Jeep so
> >> >> he's gonna call his friend tonight at 6pm and let him know my offer
> >> >> and then call me back to let me know what he says. What do y'all
> >> >> think? I mean about the clutch? It felt nice and smooth like I said
> >> >> as long as I didn't fully depress it, and when I released the clutch
> >> >> it engaged just fine. No slipping or anything like that. Oh yeah, I
> >> >> also tested the 4WD and 4WD low by burning out (with the guy's
> >> >> permission) in his back yard to be sure I could see chunks of lawn fly
> >> >> off of all 4 wheels. Seemed to work great. A little "clunky" like a
> >> >> vague feeling shifting between 4WD high/low and 2WD but I suspect
> >> >> that's probably kinda normal. So what's up? I'm psyched!!! Should I
> >> >> not answer my phone tonight and run away from this one or does it
> >> >> sound like it might be worth the $$$ to y'all? Thanks for your input!
> >> >>
> >> >> --
> >> >> Travis
> >> >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> >> >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> >> >> :wq!
> >>
> >> --
> >> Travis
> >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> >> :wq!
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!

Jeff Strickland

One thing you are going to get tired of real quick is that 3spd tranny. 1st
gear is too high for many kinds of trail work, and 3rd is a straight 1:1. I
was getting ready to suggest that this is a little low, but then I
remembered that my 4spd trans has a 1:1 top gear. I have a 6.69:1 1st gear,
so I go very slow when going slow is important. You will have trouble with
going slow because your 1st is roughly equivelent to my 2nd, which is
3.22:1. Basically, I get the same three gears on the street that you will
use, but I get an added Low Range gear for the trail that is just plain
awesome.

It is very hard to explain in words why this is an important consideration,
but it is.

Your Transxfer Case should be the Dana 300. This unit is gear driven, the YJ
and TJ get chain driven tcases. The gear driven units are substantially
stronger, with the cast iron and gears and such. You can install a Currie
TwinStick that lets you select 2WD LO Range, and 2WD LO Gange, FWD, along
with the standard selections. You can get 2WD RWD by simply climbing out and
unlocking the hubs, but who wants to be climbing in and out to lock and
unlock the hubs all day long?




"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:f6frovokmhdd5t1br9i9k5bpf8k5go9jtt@4ax.com...
> >On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 13:36:15 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"
> ><beerman@yahoo.com> shared the following:
>
> <snip>
>
> >>Real Jeeps do not "burn out". You really need to get that out of your
> >>system. Your CJ is a top heavy, narrow and short vehicle.
>
> Oh yeah, but I have to say I love the sound of the combination of the
> first two words of your last sentence above. *grin*
>
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!

Jeff Strickland

One thing you are going to get tired of real quick is that 3spd tranny. 1st
gear is too high for many kinds of trail work, and 3rd is a straight 1:1. I
was getting ready to suggest that this is a little low, but then I
remembered that my 4spd trans has a 1:1 top gear. I have a 6.69:1 1st gear,
so I go very slow when going slow is important. You will have trouble with
going slow because your 1st is roughly equivelent to my 2nd, which is
3.22:1. Basically, I get the same three gears on the street that you will
use, but I get an added Low Range gear for the trail that is just plain
awesome.

It is very hard to explain in words why this is an important consideration,
but it is.

Your Transxfer Case should be the Dana 300. This unit is gear driven, the YJ
and TJ get chain driven tcases. The gear driven units are substantially
stronger, with the cast iron and gears and such. You can install a Currie
TwinStick that lets you select 2WD LO Range, and 2WD LO Gange, FWD, along
with the standard selections. You can get 2WD RWD by simply climbing out and
unlocking the hubs, but who wants to be climbing in and out to lock and
unlock the hubs all day long?




"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:f6frovokmhdd5t1br9i9k5bpf8k5go9jtt@4ax.com...
> >On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 13:36:15 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"
> ><beerman@yahoo.com> shared the following:
>
> <snip>
>
> >>Real Jeeps do not "burn out". You really need to get that out of your
> >>system. Your CJ is a top heavy, narrow and short vehicle.
>
> Oh yeah, but I have to say I love the sound of the combination of the
> first two words of your last sentence above. *grin*
>
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!

Jeff Strickland

One thing you are going to get tired of real quick is that 3spd tranny. 1st
gear is too high for many kinds of trail work, and 3rd is a straight 1:1. I
was getting ready to suggest that this is a little low, but then I
remembered that my 4spd trans has a 1:1 top gear. I have a 6.69:1 1st gear,
so I go very slow when going slow is important. You will have trouble with
going slow because your 1st is roughly equivelent to my 2nd, which is
3.22:1. Basically, I get the same three gears on the street that you will
use, but I get an added Low Range gear for the trail that is just plain
awesome.

It is very hard to explain in words why this is an important consideration,
but it is.

Your Transxfer Case should be the Dana 300. This unit is gear driven, the YJ
and TJ get chain driven tcases. The gear driven units are substantially
stronger, with the cast iron and gears and such. You can install a Currie
TwinStick that lets you select 2WD LO Range, and 2WD LO Gange, FWD, along
with the standard selections. You can get 2WD RWD by simply climbing out and
unlocking the hubs, but who wants to be climbing in and out to lock and
unlock the hubs all day long?




"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:f6frovokmhdd5t1br9i9k5bpf8k5go9jtt@4ax.com...
> >On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 13:36:15 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"
> ><beerman@yahoo.com> shared the following:
>
> <snip>
>
> >>Real Jeeps do not "burn out". You really need to get that out of your
> >>system. Your CJ is a top heavy, narrow and short vehicle.
>
> Oh yeah, but I have to say I love the sound of the combination of the
> first two words of your last sentence above. *grin*
>
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!