wiring harness for fiberglass body
06-10-2004, 10:08 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
wiring harness for fiberglass body
Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one advertises
a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring harness
is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers, weber
carb, msd ingnition and coil...
--
HomeBrewer
http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one advertises
a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring harness
is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers, weber
carb, msd ingnition and coil...
--
HomeBrewer
http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
06-11-2004, 10:56 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: wiring harness for fiberglass body
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 21:08:17 -0500, "HomeBrewer"
<t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
>http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
>I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one advertises
>a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring harness
>is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
>Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers, weber
>carb, msd ingnition and coil...
A "built-in ground" is a good thing. With a glass (non-conducting)
body you no longer can just ground components to the nearest steel
panel. All the current paths from your lights, stereo, heater fan,
ignition, etc etc have to end up at the battery negative post or they
simply will not function. Without a proper harness, you will have to
string a bunch of additional ground wires from all over the vehicle
back to the battery. Does that sound like fun?
You could use the frame as a ground path, but that isn't the greatest
idea for a number of reasons. It is one possibility, however. You
would still have to string ground wires from all the components tho,
just not as far.
As the description at that first website says:
"This harness is perfect for fiberglass bodies because it features a
built-in ground system which eliminates grounding hassles. "
Believe it.
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
<t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
>http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
>I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one advertises
>a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring harness
>is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
>Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers, weber
>carb, msd ingnition and coil...
A "built-in ground" is a good thing. With a glass (non-conducting)
body you no longer can just ground components to the nearest steel
panel. All the current paths from your lights, stereo, heater fan,
ignition, etc etc have to end up at the battery negative post or they
simply will not function. Without a proper harness, you will have to
string a bunch of additional ground wires from all over the vehicle
back to the battery. Does that sound like fun?
You could use the frame as a ground path, but that isn't the greatest
idea for a number of reasons. It is one possibility, however. You
would still have to string ground wires from all the components tho,
just not as far.
As the description at that first website says:
"This harness is perfect for fiberglass bodies because it features a
built-in ground system which eliminates grounding hassles. "
Believe it.
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
06-11-2004, 10:56 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: wiring harness for fiberglass body
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 21:08:17 -0500, "HomeBrewer"
<t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
>http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
>I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one advertises
>a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring harness
>is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
>Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers, weber
>carb, msd ingnition and coil...
A "built-in ground" is a good thing. With a glass (non-conducting)
body you no longer can just ground components to the nearest steel
panel. All the current paths from your lights, stereo, heater fan,
ignition, etc etc have to end up at the battery negative post or they
simply will not function. Without a proper harness, you will have to
string a bunch of additional ground wires from all over the vehicle
back to the battery. Does that sound like fun?
You could use the frame as a ground path, but that isn't the greatest
idea for a number of reasons. It is one possibility, however. You
would still have to string ground wires from all the components tho,
just not as far.
As the description at that first website says:
"This harness is perfect for fiberglass bodies because it features a
built-in ground system which eliminates grounding hassles. "
Believe it.
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
<t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
>http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
>I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one advertises
>a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring harness
>is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
>Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers, weber
>carb, msd ingnition and coil...
A "built-in ground" is a good thing. With a glass (non-conducting)
body you no longer can just ground components to the nearest steel
panel. All the current paths from your lights, stereo, heater fan,
ignition, etc etc have to end up at the battery negative post or they
simply will not function. Without a proper harness, you will have to
string a bunch of additional ground wires from all over the vehicle
back to the battery. Does that sound like fun?
You could use the frame as a ground path, but that isn't the greatest
idea for a number of reasons. It is one possibility, however. You
would still have to string ground wires from all the components tho,
just not as far.
As the description at that first website says:
"This harness is perfect for fiberglass bodies because it features a
built-in ground system which eliminates grounding hassles. "
Believe it.
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
06-11-2004, 10:56 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: wiring harness for fiberglass body
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 21:08:17 -0500, "HomeBrewer"
<t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
>http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
>I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one advertises
>a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring harness
>is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
>Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers, weber
>carb, msd ingnition and coil...
A "built-in ground" is a good thing. With a glass (non-conducting)
body you no longer can just ground components to the nearest steel
panel. All the current paths from your lights, stereo, heater fan,
ignition, etc etc have to end up at the battery negative post or they
simply will not function. Without a proper harness, you will have to
string a bunch of additional ground wires from all over the vehicle
back to the battery. Does that sound like fun?
You could use the frame as a ground path, but that isn't the greatest
idea for a number of reasons. It is one possibility, however. You
would still have to string ground wires from all the components tho,
just not as far.
As the description at that first website says:
"This harness is perfect for fiberglass bodies because it features a
built-in ground system which eliminates grounding hassles. "
Believe it.
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
<t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
>http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
>I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one advertises
>a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring harness
>is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
>Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers, weber
>carb, msd ingnition and coil...
A "built-in ground" is a good thing. With a glass (non-conducting)
body you no longer can just ground components to the nearest steel
panel. All the current paths from your lights, stereo, heater fan,
ignition, etc etc have to end up at the battery negative post or they
simply will not function. Without a proper harness, you will have to
string a bunch of additional ground wires from all over the vehicle
back to the battery. Does that sound like fun?
You could use the frame as a ground path, but that isn't the greatest
idea for a number of reasons. It is one possibility, however. You
would still have to string ground wires from all the components tho,
just not as far.
As the description at that first website says:
"This harness is perfect for fiberglass bodies because it features a
built-in ground system which eliminates grounding hassles. "
Believe it.
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
06-11-2004, 10:56 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: wiring harness for fiberglass body
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 21:08:17 -0500, "HomeBrewer"
<t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
>http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
>I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one advertises
>a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring harness
>is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
>Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers, weber
>carb, msd ingnition and coil...
A "built-in ground" is a good thing. With a glass (non-conducting)
body you no longer can just ground components to the nearest steel
panel. All the current paths from your lights, stereo, heater fan,
ignition, etc etc have to end up at the battery negative post or they
simply will not function. Without a proper harness, you will have to
string a bunch of additional ground wires from all over the vehicle
back to the battery. Does that sound like fun?
You could use the frame as a ground path, but that isn't the greatest
idea for a number of reasons. It is one possibility, however. You
would still have to string ground wires from all the components tho,
just not as far.
As the description at that first website says:
"This harness is perfect for fiberglass bodies because it features a
built-in ground system which eliminates grounding hassles. "
Believe it.
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
<t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
>http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
>I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one advertises
>a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring harness
>is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
>Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers, weber
>carb, msd ingnition and coil...
A "built-in ground" is a good thing. With a glass (non-conducting)
body you no longer can just ground components to the nearest steel
panel. All the current paths from your lights, stereo, heater fan,
ignition, etc etc have to end up at the battery negative post or they
simply will not function. Without a proper harness, you will have to
string a bunch of additional ground wires from all over the vehicle
back to the battery. Does that sound like fun?
You could use the frame as a ground path, but that isn't the greatest
idea for a number of reasons. It is one possibility, however. You
would still have to string ground wires from all the components tho,
just not as far.
As the description at that first website says:
"This harness is perfect for fiberglass bodies because it features a
built-in ground system which eliminates grounding hassles. "
Believe it.
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
06-12-2004, 08:32 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: wiring harness for fiberglass body
"HomeBrewer" <t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:2isigmFq4h4gU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
> http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
> I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one
advertises
> a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring
harness
> is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
> Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers,
weber
> carb, msd ingnition and coil...
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
Adding a ground wire to your existing harness isn't that big of a deal.
In my opinion the 430 dollars would be better spent on something else.
I kept the steel grille, windshield, dash and grille braces. I ran a wire
between each of the metal mounting plates in the rear tailights, and then up
through the harness to the metal dash. The fuel sending unit could be
grounded to the frame or back to the taillight bracket. I don't remember if
the wiper motor required a ground or it already was grounded in the factory
harness.
I then attached a ground wire from the metal dash to the brace bolts
inside the tub. All of the front end lights were grounded to the metal
grille shell. To complete the circuit, you need a wire from either the
grille shell or the convenient grille brace bolts to where the battery
ground bolts to the block. Don't forget to ground the frame if the sending
unit is grounded to the frame.
Obviously, if you go with all fiberglass then a ground for the front end
lights needs to be worked out (one wire) and a fiberglass dash will create
a bunch more extra work for all the electical stuff hooked up to it.
If you have the enough confidence in your abilities to tackle a
replacement fiberglass body and brew your own beer, for that matter, then
the very minor task of having to run a couple of additional wires is nothing
to even worry about!
news:2isigmFq4h4gU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
> http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
> I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one
advertises
> a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring
harness
> is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
> Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers,
weber
> carb, msd ingnition and coil...
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
Adding a ground wire to your existing harness isn't that big of a deal.
In my opinion the 430 dollars would be better spent on something else.
I kept the steel grille, windshield, dash and grille braces. I ran a wire
between each of the metal mounting plates in the rear tailights, and then up
through the harness to the metal dash. The fuel sending unit could be
grounded to the frame or back to the taillight bracket. I don't remember if
the wiper motor required a ground or it already was grounded in the factory
harness.
I then attached a ground wire from the metal dash to the brace bolts
inside the tub. All of the front end lights were grounded to the metal
grille shell. To complete the circuit, you need a wire from either the
grille shell or the convenient grille brace bolts to where the battery
ground bolts to the block. Don't forget to ground the frame if the sending
unit is grounded to the frame.
Obviously, if you go with all fiberglass then a ground for the front end
lights needs to be worked out (one wire) and a fiberglass dash will create
a bunch more extra work for all the electical stuff hooked up to it.
If you have the enough confidence in your abilities to tackle a
replacement fiberglass body and brew your own beer, for that matter, then
the very minor task of having to run a couple of additional wires is nothing
to even worry about!
06-12-2004, 08:32 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: wiring harness for fiberglass body
"HomeBrewer" <t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:2isigmFq4h4gU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
> http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
> I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one
advertises
> a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring
harness
> is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
> Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers,
weber
> carb, msd ingnition and coil...
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
Adding a ground wire to your existing harness isn't that big of a deal.
In my opinion the 430 dollars would be better spent on something else.
I kept the steel grille, windshield, dash and grille braces. I ran a wire
between each of the metal mounting plates in the rear tailights, and then up
through the harness to the metal dash. The fuel sending unit could be
grounded to the frame or back to the taillight bracket. I don't remember if
the wiper motor required a ground or it already was grounded in the factory
harness.
I then attached a ground wire from the metal dash to the brace bolts
inside the tub. All of the front end lights were grounded to the metal
grille shell. To complete the circuit, you need a wire from either the
grille shell or the convenient grille brace bolts to where the battery
ground bolts to the block. Don't forget to ground the frame if the sending
unit is grounded to the frame.
Obviously, if you go with all fiberglass then a ground for the front end
lights needs to be worked out (one wire) and a fiberglass dash will create
a bunch more extra work for all the electical stuff hooked up to it.
If you have the enough confidence in your abilities to tackle a
replacement fiberglass body and brew your own beer, for that matter, then
the very minor task of having to run a couple of additional wires is nothing
to even worry about!
news:2isigmFq4h4gU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
> http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
> I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one
advertises
> a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring
harness
> is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
> Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers,
weber
> carb, msd ingnition and coil...
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
Adding a ground wire to your existing harness isn't that big of a deal.
In my opinion the 430 dollars would be better spent on something else.
I kept the steel grille, windshield, dash and grille braces. I ran a wire
between each of the metal mounting plates in the rear tailights, and then up
through the harness to the metal dash. The fuel sending unit could be
grounded to the frame or back to the taillight bracket. I don't remember if
the wiper motor required a ground or it already was grounded in the factory
harness.
I then attached a ground wire from the metal dash to the brace bolts
inside the tub. All of the front end lights were grounded to the metal
grille shell. To complete the circuit, you need a wire from either the
grille shell or the convenient grille brace bolts to where the battery
ground bolts to the block. Don't forget to ground the frame if the sending
unit is grounded to the frame.
Obviously, if you go with all fiberglass then a ground for the front end
lights needs to be worked out (one wire) and a fiberglass dash will create
a bunch more extra work for all the electical stuff hooked up to it.
If you have the enough confidence in your abilities to tackle a
replacement fiberglass body and brew your own beer, for that matter, then
the very minor task of having to run a couple of additional wires is nothing
to even worry about!
06-12-2004, 08:32 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: wiring harness for fiberglass body
"HomeBrewer" <t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:2isigmFq4h4gU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
> http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
> I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one
advertises
> a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring
harness
> is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
> Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers,
weber
> carb, msd ingnition and coil...
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
Adding a ground wire to your existing harness isn't that big of a deal.
In my opinion the 430 dollars would be better spent on something else.
I kept the steel grille, windshield, dash and grille braces. I ran a wire
between each of the metal mounting plates in the rear tailights, and then up
through the harness to the metal dash. The fuel sending unit could be
grounded to the frame or back to the taillight bracket. I don't remember if
the wiper motor required a ground or it already was grounded in the factory
harness.
I then attached a ground wire from the metal dash to the brace bolts
inside the tub. All of the front end lights were grounded to the metal
grille shell. To complete the circuit, you need a wire from either the
grille shell or the convenient grille brace bolts to where the battery
ground bolts to the block. Don't forget to ground the frame if the sending
unit is grounded to the frame.
Obviously, if you go with all fiberglass then a ground for the front end
lights needs to be worked out (one wire) and a fiberglass dash will create
a bunch more extra work for all the electical stuff hooked up to it.
If you have the enough confidence in your abilities to tackle a
replacement fiberglass body and brew your own beer, for that matter, then
the very minor task of having to run a couple of additional wires is nothing
to even worry about!
news:2isigmFq4h4gU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
> http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
> I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one
advertises
> a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring
harness
> is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
> Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers,
weber
> carb, msd ingnition and coil...
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
Adding a ground wire to your existing harness isn't that big of a deal.
In my opinion the 430 dollars would be better spent on something else.
I kept the steel grille, windshield, dash and grille braces. I ran a wire
between each of the metal mounting plates in the rear tailights, and then up
through the harness to the metal dash. The fuel sending unit could be
grounded to the frame or back to the taillight bracket. I don't remember if
the wiper motor required a ground or it already was grounded in the factory
harness.
I then attached a ground wire from the metal dash to the brace bolts
inside the tub. All of the front end lights were grounded to the metal
grille shell. To complete the circuit, you need a wire from either the
grille shell or the convenient grille brace bolts to where the battery
ground bolts to the block. Don't forget to ground the frame if the sending
unit is grounded to the frame.
Obviously, if you go with all fiberglass then a ground for the front end
lights needs to be worked out (one wire) and a fiberglass dash will create
a bunch more extra work for all the electical stuff hooked up to it.
If you have the enough confidence in your abilities to tackle a
replacement fiberglass body and brew your own beer, for that matter, then
the very minor task of having to run a couple of additional wires is nothing
to even worry about!
06-12-2004, 08:32 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: wiring harness for fiberglass body
"HomeBrewer" <t3e871XXX@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:2isigmFq4h4gU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
> http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
> I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one
advertises
> a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring
harness
> is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
> Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers,
weber
> carb, msd ingnition and coil...
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
Adding a ground wire to your existing harness isn't that big of a deal.
In my opinion the 430 dollars would be better spent on something else.
I kept the steel grille, windshield, dash and grille braces. I ran a wire
between each of the metal mounting plates in the rear tailights, and then up
through the harness to the metal dash. The fuel sending unit could be
grounded to the frame or back to the taillight bracket. I don't remember if
the wiper motor required a ground or it already was grounded in the factory
harness.
I then attached a ground wire from the metal dash to the brace bolts
inside the tub. All of the front end lights were grounded to the metal
grille shell. To complete the circuit, you need a wire from either the
grille shell or the convenient grille brace bolts to where the battery
ground bolts to the block. Don't forget to ground the frame if the sending
unit is grounded to the frame.
Obviously, if you go with all fiberglass then a ground for the front end
lights needs to be worked out (one wire) and a fiberglass dash will create
a bunch more extra work for all the electical stuff hooked up to it.
If you have the enough confidence in your abilities to tackle a
replacement fiberglass body and brew your own beer, for that matter, then
the very minor task of having to run a couple of additional wires is nothing
to even worry about!
news:2isigmFq4h4gU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Anyone have any experience with this wiring harness from 4wd hardware?
> http://tinyurl.com/2fmvl
>
> I want a new harness for when I install a glass tub and this one
advertises
> a built-in ground. I'm not sure what this is and the painless wiring
harness
> is the same price... http://tinyurl.com/2l5gf
>
> Which one is best for my jeep....85 cj7, no more computer....headers,
weber
> carb, msd ingnition and coil...
>
> --
> HomeBrewer
> http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
Adding a ground wire to your existing harness isn't that big of a deal.
In my opinion the 430 dollars would be better spent on something else.
I kept the steel grille, windshield, dash and grille braces. I ran a wire
between each of the metal mounting plates in the rear tailights, and then up
through the harness to the metal dash. The fuel sending unit could be
grounded to the frame or back to the taillight bracket. I don't remember if
the wiper motor required a ground or it already was grounded in the factory
harness.
I then attached a ground wire from the metal dash to the brace bolts
inside the tub. All of the front end lights were grounded to the metal
grille shell. To complete the circuit, you need a wire from either the
grille shell or the convenient grille brace bolts to where the battery
ground bolts to the block. Don't forget to ground the frame if the sending
unit is grounded to the frame.
Obviously, if you go with all fiberglass then a ground for the front end
lights needs to be worked out (one wire) and a fiberglass dash will create
a bunch more extra work for all the electical stuff hooked up to it.
If you have the enough confidence in your abilities to tackle a
replacement fiberglass body and brew your own beer, for that matter, then
the very minor task of having to run a couple of additional wires is nothing
to even worry about!
06-13-2004, 08:32 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: wiring harness for fiberglass body
>Adding a ground wire to your existing harness isn't that big of a deal.
> In my opinion the 430 dollars would be better spent on something else.
You haven't seen under my hood. $430 will be a bargin to clean up that mess.
I'm just trying to decide between the "painless" harness that is a proven
quality product or the 4wd hardware version that is glass tub ready. I
wanted to find someone that has bought the 4wd hardware version and get the
scoop on that product.
I understand that I can use any wiring harness as long as I modify it to
ground everything.
--
HomeBrewer
http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
www.rcparkflyers.com
Remove the xxx to reply!
> In my opinion the 430 dollars would be better spent on something else.
You haven't seen under my hood. $430 will be a bargin to clean up that mess.
I'm just trying to decide between the "painless" harness that is a proven
quality product or the 4wd hardware version that is glass tub ready. I
wanted to find someone that has bought the 4wd hardware version and get the
scoop on that product.
I understand that I can use any wiring harness as long as I modify it to
ground everything.
--
HomeBrewer
http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html
www.rcparkflyers.com
Remove the xxx to reply!
