An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
coating.

If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4421A245.67FA70DE@sympatico.ca...
> You are damaging the studs by over-torquing them. The lugs could snap
> because they have stress fractures or the nuts could come loose because
> the lug is stretched so not stable any more.
>
> The specs call for a dry torque of 90 to 115 not a wet torque. The wet
> torque settings are a lot lower. I don't know them because I would
> never use them.
>
> We were told/taught 'never' to use any lube on the lug threads when I
> worked in garages way back when. Not just one garage either, but coast
> to coast in Canada.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> JD Adams wrote:
> >
> > Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> > maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> > on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> > engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> > usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
> >
> > I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> > change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> > chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> > my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> > grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
> >
> > He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> > time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> > friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> > everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> > that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> > put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
> >
> > I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> > heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> > like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> > won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> > everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> > --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
> >
> > Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> > makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> > change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> > disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
> >
> > -JD


*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
coating.

If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4421A245.67FA70DE@sympatico.ca...
> You are damaging the studs by over-torquing them. The lugs could snap
> because they have stress fractures or the nuts could come loose because
> the lug is stretched so not stable any more.
>
> The specs call for a dry torque of 90 to 115 not a wet torque. The wet
> torque settings are a lot lower. I don't know them because I would
> never use them.
>
> We were told/taught 'never' to use any lube on the lug threads when I
> worked in garages way back when. Not just one garage either, but coast
> to coast in Canada.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> JD Adams wrote:
> >
> > Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> > maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> > on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> > engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> > usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
> >
> > I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> > change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> > chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> > my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> > grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
> >
> > He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> > time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> > friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> > everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> > that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> > put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
> >
> > I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> > heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> > like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> > won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> > everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> > --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
> >
> > Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> > makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> > change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> > disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
> >
> > -JD


*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
coating.

If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4421A245.67FA70DE@sympatico.ca...
> You are damaging the studs by over-torquing them. The lugs could snap
> because they have stress fractures or the nuts could come loose because
> the lug is stretched so not stable any more.
>
> The specs call for a dry torque of 90 to 115 not a wet torque. The wet
> torque settings are a lot lower. I don't know them because I would
> never use them.
>
> We were told/taught 'never' to use any lube on the lug threads when I
> worked in garages way back when. Not just one garage either, but coast
> to coast in Canada.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> JD Adams wrote:
> >
> > Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> > maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> > on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> > engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> > usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
> >
> > I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> > change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> > chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> > my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> > grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
> >
> > He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> > time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> > friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> > everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> > that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> > put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
> >
> > I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> > heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> > like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> > won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> > everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> > --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
> >
> > Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> > makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> > change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> > disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
> >
> > -JD


*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

Earle Horton wrote:
> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
> coating.
>
> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>
> Earle

Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating

 

Earle Horton wrote:
> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
> coating.
>
> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>
> Earle

Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating

 

Earle Horton wrote:
> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
> coating.
>
> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>
> Earle

Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating

 

Earle Horton wrote:
> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
> coating.
>
> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>
> Earle

Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating

 

I use chassis grease, no where does it call for it, but I drive in
occasionally in salt water, at San Felpie, or in the Borrego Bad Lands,
for those that want to run them dry, then at least protect them with
factory hub caps. If you're replaced a tire that's been bolted to a
trailer or something that hasn't moved in twenty years, then you know
you're going to have to break a couple of studs, if they were dry.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

JD Adams wrote:
>
> Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
>
> I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
>
> He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
>
> I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
>
> Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
>
> -JD

 

I use chassis grease, no where does it call for it, but I drive in
occasionally in salt water, at San Felpie, or in the Borrego Bad Lands,
for those that want to run them dry, then at least protect them with
factory hub caps. If you're replaced a tire that's been bolted to a
trailer or something that hasn't moved in twenty years, then you know
you're going to have to break a couple of studs, if they were dry.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

JD Adams wrote:
>
> Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
>
> I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
>
> He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
>
> I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
>
> Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
>
> -JD

 

I use chassis grease, no where does it call for it, but I drive in
occasionally in salt water, at San Felpie, or in the Borrego Bad Lands,
for those that want to run them dry, then at least protect them with
factory hub caps. If you're replaced a tire that's been bolted to a
trailer or something that hasn't moved in twenty years, then you know
you're going to have to break a couple of studs, if they were dry.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

JD Adams wrote:
>
> Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
>
> I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
>
> He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
>
> I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
>
> Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
>
> -JD