Wheel Bearing Question
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearing Question
I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
bearings are non standard and expensive.
Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
job quite quickly.
Ed Wojciechowski wrote:
> I have a '96 GC Laredo 4wd with a 4.0 that has 164k on it. My question
> is, are there any good websites showing how to replace the front wheel
> bearings?
>
unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
bearings are non standard and expensive.
Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
job quite quickly.
Ed Wojciechowski wrote:
> I have a '96 GC Laredo 4wd with a 4.0 that has 164k on it. My question
> is, are there any good websites showing how to replace the front wheel
> bearings?
>
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearing Question
I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
bearings are non standard and expensive.
Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
job quite quickly.
Ed Wojciechowski wrote:
> I have a '96 GC Laredo 4wd with a 4.0 that has 164k on it. My question
> is, are there any good websites showing how to replace the front wheel
> bearings?
>
unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
bearings are non standard and expensive.
Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
job quite quickly.
Ed Wojciechowski wrote:
> I have a '96 GC Laredo 4wd with a 4.0 that has 164k on it. My question
> is, are there any good websites showing how to replace the front wheel
> bearings?
>
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearing Question
I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
bearings are non standard and expensive.
Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
job quite quickly.
Ed Wojciechowski wrote:
> I have a '96 GC Laredo 4wd with a 4.0 that has 164k on it. My question
> is, are there any good websites showing how to replace the front wheel
> bearings?
>
unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
bearings are non standard and expensive.
Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
job quite quickly.
Ed Wojciechowski wrote:
> I have a '96 GC Laredo 4wd with a 4.0 that has 164k on it. My question
> is, are there any good websites showing how to replace the front wheel
> bearings?
>
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearing Question
Hi Roy,
They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
haven't used them since the fifties:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> bearings are non standard and expensive.
>
> Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> job quite quickly.
They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
haven't used them since the fifties:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> bearings are non standard and expensive.
>
> Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> job quite quickly.
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearing Question
Hi Roy,
They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
haven't used them since the fifties:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> bearings are non standard and expensive.
>
> Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> job quite quickly.
They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
haven't used them since the fifties:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> bearings are non standard and expensive.
>
> Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> job quite quickly.
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearing Question
Hi Roy,
They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
haven't used them since the fifties:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> bearings are non standard and expensive.
>
> Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> job quite quickly.
They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
haven't used them since the fifties:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> bearings are non standard and expensive.
>
> Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> job quite quickly.
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearing Question
Those are ball bearings all right. I have heard they last 150k miles or so.
Anyone know offhand if there is a Timken tapered roller bearing replacement
for this application? I have heard about the Warn kit with the locking
hubs. I am considering it, but I think that all I really will want at
replacement time is stronger bearings.
Thanks.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4425D114.38C0259E@***.net...
> Hi Roy,
> They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
> haven't used them since the fifties:
> http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> >
> > I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> > unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> > rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> > bearings are non standard and expensive.
> >
> > Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> > rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> > revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> > bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> > job quite quickly.
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Anyone know offhand if there is a Timken tapered roller bearing replacement
for this application? I have heard about the Warn kit with the locking
hubs. I am considering it, but I think that all I really will want at
replacement time is stronger bearings.
Thanks.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4425D114.38C0259E@***.net...
> Hi Roy,
> They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
> haven't used them since the fifties:
> http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> >
> > I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> > unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> > rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> > bearings are non standard and expensive.
> >
> > Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> > rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> > revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> > bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> > job quite quickly.
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#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearing Question
Those are ball bearings all right. I have heard they last 150k miles or so.
Anyone know offhand if there is a Timken tapered roller bearing replacement
for this application? I have heard about the Warn kit with the locking
hubs. I am considering it, but I think that all I really will want at
replacement time is stronger bearings.
Thanks.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4425D114.38C0259E@***.net...
> Hi Roy,
> They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
> haven't used them since the fifties:
> http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> >
> > I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> > unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> > rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> > bearings are non standard and expensive.
> >
> > Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> > rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> > revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> > bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> > job quite quickly.
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Anyone know offhand if there is a Timken tapered roller bearing replacement
for this application? I have heard about the Warn kit with the locking
hubs. I am considering it, but I think that all I really will want at
replacement time is stronger bearings.
Thanks.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4425D114.38C0259E@***.net...
> Hi Roy,
> They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
> haven't used them since the fifties:
> http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> >
> > I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> > unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> > rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> > bearings are non standard and expensive.
> >
> > Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> > rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> > revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> > bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> > job quite quickly.
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*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearing Question
Those are ball bearings all right. I have heard they last 150k miles or so.
Anyone know offhand if there is a Timken tapered roller bearing replacement
for this application? I have heard about the Warn kit with the locking
hubs. I am considering it, but I think that all I really will want at
replacement time is stronger bearings.
Thanks.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4425D114.38C0259E@***.net...
> Hi Roy,
> They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
> haven't used them since the fifties:
> http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> >
> > I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> > unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> > rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> > bearings are non standard and expensive.
> >
> > Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> > rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> > revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> > bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> > job quite quickly.
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***
Anyone know offhand if there is a Timken tapered roller bearing replacement
for this application? I have heard about the Warn kit with the locking
hubs. I am considering it, but I think that all I really will want at
replacement time is stronger bearings.
Thanks.
Earle
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4425D114.38C0259E@***.net...
> Hi Roy,
> They are ball bearings, too weak for American passenger cars, they
> haven't used them since the fifties:
> http://www.----------.com/Dana30hub.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> RoyJ wrote:
> >
> > I think it uses the bearing assembly with bearings and hub replaced as a
> > unit. About $130 depending on where you buy it. Some folks have tried to
> > rebuild the unit themselves, takes a BIG press (60 ton) plus the
> > bearings are non standard and expensive.
> >
> > Beware, if you live in the salt truck/snow belt, the hub will be solidly
> > rusted into the knuckle, a RPITA to get loose. Most removal methods
> > revolve around large hammers, heavy duty wedges, sacrificial (and bent)
> > bolts, etc. This should be a 2 banana job, turns into a 3 or 4 banana
> > job quite quickly.
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#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearing Question
Hi Earle,
Warn's conversion:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/yjwarnaxle/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> Those are ball bearings all right. I have heard they last 150k miles or so.
> Anyone know offhand if there is a Timken tapered roller bearing replacement
> for this application? I have heard about the Warn kit with the locking
> hubs. I am considering it, but I think that all I really will want at
> replacement time is stronger bearings.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Earle
Warn's conversion:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/yjwarnaxle/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Earle Horton wrote:
>
> Those are ball bearings all right. I have heard they last 150k miles or so.
> Anyone know offhand if there is a Timken tapered roller bearing replacement
> for this application? I have heard about the Warn kit with the locking
> hubs. I am considering it, but I think that all I really will want at
> replacement time is stronger bearings.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Earle