K I looked at the starter solenoid on the bellhousing and there is one big
black wire running to the far side of my starter relay mounted on my
passenger wheel well. The one red wire on the electrical coil cap seems to
run to one of the little rubber caps that connects onto the screw on the
starter relay (I'll confirm this later with the multimeter cuz the wire gets
lost in a wire bundle). The other red wire is really really short and isn't
broken off ...it's disconnected. There is a long female black connector on
the end that connects to no apparent place.

I'm wondering if something inside the distributor didn't blow. My dad is
familiar with some distributors but this one (the manual calls it
"breakerless") has him confused. We are unable to get the rotor off to see
where the three wires go inside of it or how it works. Is there a solenoid
in there? Could something inside have gone screwy? If so, how do we take it
apart?

Also, if anyone has wiring schematics for '85 CJ7 (4 cyl 2.5L), if they
could send them I'd be so grateful. The wiring on this thing looks like a
box of phone cords and it makes no sense. There's been too many hands in
there messin stuff up.

Thanks!

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4263ACDD.C3F8FD@sympatico.ca...
> When you turn the key to run, the coil red wire should see about 9
> volts. If you put the meter on the green wire from the ignition module,
> it should read 5 or 6 volts.
>
> The red wire that broke off is the wire that goes from the coil to the
> starter solenoid. It hooks on the small side post or ties in with the
> light blue wire there. This is the power to the coil when the starter
> is turning and must be hooked back up to get any spark.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> griffin wrote:
> >
> > '85 Jeep CJ7 4cyl 2.5L. Fixed the timing chain and reassembled
yesterday.
> > Started up but didn't have a tach so we couldn't set the idle speed and
> > timing properly. Because the distributor was moved it's way off time (it
> > should be 12 BTDC and is like 16-20, not to mention the idle speed is a
> > mess). I tried driving it but it had absolutely no power and if I let
off
> > the gas even a little it would backfire. So today I get a laser tach and
my
> > timing light and disconnect the proper stuff to set the timing and plug
the
> > vacuum, etc. When I go to start it - nothing. It just turns over and
over
> > but never fires. At one point I almost got it to start but then it
flooded.
> > After that it would just do the same turning over with no apparent
spark. I
> > took the #1 plug wire and tried to get a spark on some metal but there
was
> > nothing so I tried the center plug off the distributor and got nothing
there
> > (tried it both grounded and not grounded). Next up I check my voltage
> > readings. I get 12V across the battery and 12V across the electrical
coil on
> > the firewall when I go straight from the coil connector (the black
connector
> > that slides over the coil) to the battery but ONLY when it is
disconnected
> > from the coil itself. If I put it on the coil I get 6V. I'm assuming
this is
> > wrong. I just replaced the coil and had my control module tested and
still
> > no spark and still 6V reading. Where do I go from here?! All my
connections
> > seem to be connected and all vacuum hoses/etc seem to be properly
connected.
> > The only thing that appears wrong is that there are two red wires on my
> > black connector on the top of the electrical coil and one of them goes
no
> > where and I can find no where to connect it.
> >
> > Thanks!

 

K I looked at the starter solenoid on the bellhousing and there is one big
black wire running to the far side of my starter relay mounted on my
passenger wheel well. The one red wire on the electrical coil cap seems to
run to one of the little rubber caps that connects onto the screw on the
starter relay (I'll confirm this later with the multimeter cuz the wire gets
lost in a wire bundle). The other red wire is really really short and isn't
broken off ...it's disconnected. There is a long female black connector on
the end that connects to no apparent place.

I'm wondering if something inside the distributor didn't blow. My dad is
familiar with some distributors but this one (the manual calls it
"breakerless") has him confused. We are unable to get the rotor off to see
where the three wires go inside of it or how it works. Is there a solenoid
in there? Could something inside have gone screwy? If so, how do we take it
apart?

Also, if anyone has wiring schematics for '85 CJ7 (4 cyl 2.5L), if they
could send them I'd be so grateful. The wiring on this thing looks like a
box of phone cords and it makes no sense. There's been too many hands in
there messin stuff up.

Thanks!

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4263ACDD.C3F8FD@sympatico.ca...
> When you turn the key to run, the coil red wire should see about 9
> volts. If you put the meter on the green wire from the ignition module,
> it should read 5 or 6 volts.
>
> The red wire that broke off is the wire that goes from the coil to the
> starter solenoid. It hooks on the small side post or ties in with the
> light blue wire there. This is the power to the coil when the starter
> is turning and must be hooked back up to get any spark.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> griffin wrote:
> >
> > '85 Jeep CJ7 4cyl 2.5L. Fixed the timing chain and reassembled
yesterday.
> > Started up but didn't have a tach so we couldn't set the idle speed and
> > timing properly. Because the distributor was moved it's way off time (it
> > should be 12 BTDC and is like 16-20, not to mention the idle speed is a
> > mess). I tried driving it but it had absolutely no power and if I let
off
> > the gas even a little it would backfire. So today I get a laser tach and
my
> > timing light and disconnect the proper stuff to set the timing and plug
the
> > vacuum, etc. When I go to start it - nothing. It just turns over and
over
> > but never fires. At one point I almost got it to start but then it
flooded.
> > After that it would just do the same turning over with no apparent
spark. I
> > took the #1 plug wire and tried to get a spark on some metal but there
was
> > nothing so I tried the center plug off the distributor and got nothing
there
> > (tried it both grounded and not grounded). Next up I check my voltage
> > readings. I get 12V across the battery and 12V across the electrical
coil on
> > the firewall when I go straight from the coil connector (the black
connector
> > that slides over the coil) to the battery but ONLY when it is
disconnected
> > from the coil itself. If I put it on the coil I get 6V. I'm assuming
this is
> > wrong. I just replaced the coil and had my control module tested and
still
> > no spark and still 6V reading. Where do I go from here?! All my
connections
> > seem to be connected and all vacuum hoses/etc seem to be properly
connected.
> > The only thing that appears wrong is that there are two red wires on my
> > black connector on the top of the electrical coil and one of them goes
no
> > where and I can find no where to connect it.
> >
> > Thanks!

 

K I looked at the starter solenoid on the bellhousing and there is one big
black wire running to the far side of my starter relay mounted on my
passenger wheel well. The one red wire on the electrical coil cap seems to
run to one of the little rubber caps that connects onto the screw on the
starter relay (I'll confirm this later with the multimeter cuz the wire gets
lost in a wire bundle). The other red wire is really really short and isn't
broken off ...it's disconnected. There is a long female black connector on
the end that connects to no apparent place.

I'm wondering if something inside the distributor didn't blow. My dad is
familiar with some distributors but this one (the manual calls it
"breakerless") has him confused. We are unable to get the rotor off to see
where the three wires go inside of it or how it works. Is there a solenoid
in there? Could something inside have gone screwy? If so, how do we take it
apart?

Also, if anyone has wiring schematics for '85 CJ7 (4 cyl 2.5L), if they
could send them I'd be so grateful. The wiring on this thing looks like a
box of phone cords and it makes no sense. There's been too many hands in
there messin stuff up.

Thanks!

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4263ACDD.C3F8FD@sympatico.ca...
> When you turn the key to run, the coil red wire should see about 9
> volts. If you put the meter on the green wire from the ignition module,
> it should read 5 or 6 volts.
>
> The red wire that broke off is the wire that goes from the coil to the
> starter solenoid. It hooks on the small side post or ties in with the
> light blue wire there. This is the power to the coil when the starter
> is turning and must be hooked back up to get any spark.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> griffin wrote:
> >
> > '85 Jeep CJ7 4cyl 2.5L. Fixed the timing chain and reassembled
yesterday.
> > Started up but didn't have a tach so we couldn't set the idle speed and
> > timing properly. Because the distributor was moved it's way off time (it
> > should be 12 BTDC and is like 16-20, not to mention the idle speed is a
> > mess). I tried driving it but it had absolutely no power and if I let
off
> > the gas even a little it would backfire. So today I get a laser tach and
my
> > timing light and disconnect the proper stuff to set the timing and plug
the
> > vacuum, etc. When I go to start it - nothing. It just turns over and
over
> > but never fires. At one point I almost got it to start but then it
flooded.
> > After that it would just do the same turning over with no apparent
spark. I
> > took the #1 plug wire and tried to get a spark on some metal but there
was
> > nothing so I tried the center plug off the distributor and got nothing
there
> > (tried it both grounded and not grounded). Next up I check my voltage
> > readings. I get 12V across the battery and 12V across the electrical
coil on
> > the firewall when I go straight from the coil connector (the black
connector
> > that slides over the coil) to the battery but ONLY when it is
disconnected
> > from the coil itself. If I put it on the coil I get 6V. I'm assuming
this is
> > wrong. I just replaced the coil and had my control module tested and
still
> > no spark and still 6V reading. Where do I go from here?! All my
connections
> > seem to be connected and all vacuum hoses/etc seem to be properly
connected.
> > The only thing that appears wrong is that there are two red wires on my
> > black connector on the top of the electrical coil and one of them goes
no
> > where and I can find no where to connect it.
> >
> > Thanks!

 

When the starter turns, it takes all the power so you get a direct from
the battery via the relay power to the coil. If you do not have this,
you have no spark when the starter is turning.

The black connector is for a capacitor.

Inside the harness about a foot or so away from the coil, the red wire
splits at a crimp connector into one fat red rubber one and one that
goes to the starter relay. The soft fat one is the ballast wire that
provides power when the key is in run. It is about 6' long ant
terminates in a crimp connector up by the brake booster with a brown
wire going to the alternator. You have verified power there already,
you are missing power when the starter is turning so you have no spark.

A multi meter on continuity would show if the coil red to the relay is
ok.

You have a pickup coil in the distributor that can be tested with the
meter on ohms. It should have between 400 to 800 ohms.

The cheap Haynes CJ manual has a wiring diagram that is spot on for the
80's CJ's, I have rewired several using it.

Mike

griffin wrote:
>
> K I looked at the starter solenoid on the bellhousing and there is one big
> black wire running to the far side of my starter relay mounted on my
> passenger wheel well. The one red wire on the electrical coil cap seems to
> run to one of the little rubber caps that connects onto the screw on the
> starter relay (I'll confirm this later with the multimeter cuz the wire gets
> lost in a wire bundle). The other red wire is really really short and isn't
> broken off ...it's disconnected. There is a long female black connector on
> the end that connects to no apparent place.
>
> I'm wondering if something inside the distributor didn't blow. My dad is
> familiar with some distributors but this one (the manual calls it
> "breakerless") has him confused. We are unable to get the rotor off to see
> where the three wires go inside of it or how it works. Is there a solenoid
> in there? Could something inside have gone screwy? If so, how do we take it
> apart?
>
> Also, if anyone has wiring schematics for '85 CJ7 (4 cyl 2.5L), if they
> could send them I'd be so grateful. The wiring on this thing looks like a
> box of phone cords and it makes no sense. There's been too many hands in
> there messin stuff up.
>
> Thanks!
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4263ACDD.C3F8FD@sympatico.ca...
> > When you turn the key to run, the coil red wire should see about 9
> > volts. If you put the meter on the green wire from the ignition module,
> > it should read 5 or 6 volts.
> >
> > The red wire that broke off is the wire that goes from the coil to the
> > starter solenoid. It hooks on the small side post or ties in with the
> > light blue wire there. This is the power to the coil when the starter
> > is turning and must be hooked back up to get any spark.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > griffin wrote:
> > >
> > > '85 Jeep CJ7 4cyl 2.5L. Fixed the timing chain and reassembled
> yesterday.
> > > Started up but didn't have a tach so we couldn't set the idle speed and
> > > timing properly. Because the distributor was moved it's way off time (it
> > > should be 12 BTDC and is like 16-20, not to mention the idle speed is a
> > > mess). I tried driving it but it had absolutely no power and if I let
> off
> > > the gas even a little it would backfire. So today I get a laser tach and
> my
> > > timing light and disconnect the proper stuff to set the timing and plug
> the
> > > vacuum, etc. When I go to start it - nothing. It just turns over and
> over
> > > but never fires. At one point I almost got it to start but then it
> flooded.
> > > After that it would just do the same turning over with no apparent
> spark. I
> > > took the #1 plug wire and tried to get a spark on some metal but there
> was
> > > nothing so I tried the center plug off the distributor and got nothing
> there
> > > (tried it both grounded and not grounded). Next up I check my voltage
> > > readings. I get 12V across the battery and 12V across the electrical
> coil on
> > > the firewall when I go straight from the coil connector (the black
> connector
> > > that slides over the coil) to the battery but ONLY when it is
> disconnected
> > > from the coil itself. If I put it on the coil I get 6V. I'm assuming
> this is
> > > wrong. I just replaced the coil and had my control module tested and
> still
> > > no spark and still 6V reading. Where do I go from here?! All my
> connections
> > > seem to be connected and all vacuum hoses/etc seem to be properly
> connected.
> > > The only thing that appears wrong is that there are two red wires on my
> > > black connector on the top of the electrical coil and one of them goes
> no
> > > where and I can find no where to connect it.
> > >
> > > Thanks!

 

When the starter turns, it takes all the power so you get a direct from
the battery via the relay power to the coil. If you do not have this,
you have no spark when the starter is turning.

The black connector is for a capacitor.

Inside the harness about a foot or so away from the coil, the red wire
splits at a crimp connector into one fat red rubber one and one that
goes to the starter relay. The soft fat one is the ballast wire that
provides power when the key is in run. It is about 6' long ant
terminates in a crimp connector up by the brake booster with a brown
wire going to the alternator. You have verified power there already,
you are missing power when the starter is turning so you have no spark.

A multi meter on continuity would show if the coil red to the relay is
ok.

You have a pickup coil in the distributor that can be tested with the
meter on ohms. It should have between 400 to 800 ohms.

The cheap Haynes CJ manual has a wiring diagram that is spot on for the
80's CJ's, I have rewired several using it.

Mike

griffin wrote:
>
> K I looked at the starter solenoid on the bellhousing and there is one big
> black wire running to the far side of my starter relay mounted on my
> passenger wheel well. The one red wire on the electrical coil cap seems to
> run to one of the little rubber caps that connects onto the screw on the
> starter relay (I'll confirm this later with the multimeter cuz the wire gets
> lost in a wire bundle). The other red wire is really really short and isn't
> broken off ...it's disconnected. There is a long female black connector on
> the end that connects to no apparent place.
>
> I'm wondering if something inside the distributor didn't blow. My dad is
> familiar with some distributors but this one (the manual calls it
> "breakerless") has him confused. We are unable to get the rotor off to see
> where the three wires go inside of it or how it works. Is there a solenoid
> in there? Could something inside have gone screwy? If so, how do we take it
> apart?
>
> Also, if anyone has wiring schematics for '85 CJ7 (4 cyl 2.5L), if they
> could send them I'd be so grateful. The wiring on this thing looks like a
> box of phone cords and it makes no sense. There's been too many hands in
> there messin stuff up.
>
> Thanks!
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4263ACDD.C3F8FD@sympatico.ca...
> > When you turn the key to run, the coil red wire should see about 9
> > volts. If you put the meter on the green wire from the ignition module,
> > it should read 5 or 6 volts.
> >
> > The red wire that broke off is the wire that goes from the coil to the
> > starter solenoid. It hooks on the small side post or ties in with the
> > light blue wire there. This is the power to the coil when the starter
> > is turning and must be hooked back up to get any spark.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > griffin wrote:
> > >
> > > '85 Jeep CJ7 4cyl 2.5L. Fixed the timing chain and reassembled
> yesterday.
> > > Started up but didn't have a tach so we couldn't set the idle speed and
> > > timing properly. Because the distributor was moved it's way off time (it
> > > should be 12 BTDC and is like 16-20, not to mention the idle speed is a
> > > mess). I tried driving it but it had absolutely no power and if I let
> off
> > > the gas even a little it would backfire. So today I get a laser tach and
> my
> > > timing light and disconnect the proper stuff to set the timing and plug
> the
> > > vacuum, etc. When I go to start it - nothing. It just turns over and
> over
> > > but never fires. At one point I almost got it to start but then it
> flooded.
> > > After that it would just do the same turning over with no apparent
> spark. I
> > > took the #1 plug wire and tried to get a spark on some metal but there
> was
> > > nothing so I tried the center plug off the distributor and got nothing
> there
> > > (tried it both grounded and not grounded). Next up I check my voltage
> > > readings. I get 12V across the battery and 12V across the electrical
> coil on
> > > the firewall when I go straight from the coil connector (the black
> connector
> > > that slides over the coil) to the battery but ONLY when it is
> disconnected
> > > from the coil itself. If I put it on the coil I get 6V. I'm assuming
> this is
> > > wrong. I just replaced the coil and had my control module tested and
> still
> > > no spark and still 6V reading. Where do I go from here?! All my
> connections
> > > seem to be connected and all vacuum hoses/etc seem to be properly
> connected.
> > > The only thing that appears wrong is that there are two red wires on my
> > > black connector on the top of the electrical coil and one of them goes
> no
> > > where and I can find no where to connect it.
> > >
> > > Thanks!

 

When the starter turns, it takes all the power so you get a direct from
the battery via the relay power to the coil. If you do not have this,
you have no spark when the starter is turning.

The black connector is for a capacitor.

Inside the harness about a foot or so away from the coil, the red wire
splits at a crimp connector into one fat red rubber one and one that
goes to the starter relay. The soft fat one is the ballast wire that
provides power when the key is in run. It is about 6' long ant
terminates in a crimp connector up by the brake booster with a brown
wire going to the alternator. You have verified power there already,
you are missing power when the starter is turning so you have no spark.

A multi meter on continuity would show if the coil red to the relay is
ok.

You have a pickup coil in the distributor that can be tested with the
meter on ohms. It should have between 400 to 800 ohms.

The cheap Haynes CJ manual has a wiring diagram that is spot on for the
80's CJ's, I have rewired several using it.

Mike

griffin wrote:
>
> K I looked at the starter solenoid on the bellhousing and there is one big
> black wire running to the far side of my starter relay mounted on my
> passenger wheel well. The one red wire on the electrical coil cap seems to
> run to one of the little rubber caps that connects onto the screw on the
> starter relay (I'll confirm this later with the multimeter cuz the wire gets
> lost in a wire bundle). The other red wire is really really short and isn't
> broken off ...it's disconnected. There is a long female black connector on
> the end that connects to no apparent place.
>
> I'm wondering if something inside the distributor didn't blow. My dad is
> familiar with some distributors but this one (the manual calls it
> "breakerless") has him confused. We are unable to get the rotor off to see
> where the three wires go inside of it or how it works. Is there a solenoid
> in there? Could something inside have gone screwy? If so, how do we take it
> apart?
>
> Also, if anyone has wiring schematics for '85 CJ7 (4 cyl 2.5L), if they
> could send them I'd be so grateful. The wiring on this thing looks like a
> box of phone cords and it makes no sense. There's been too many hands in
> there messin stuff up.
>
> Thanks!
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4263ACDD.C3F8FD@sympatico.ca...
> > When you turn the key to run, the coil red wire should see about 9
> > volts. If you put the meter on the green wire from the ignition module,
> > it should read 5 or 6 volts.
> >
> > The red wire that broke off is the wire that goes from the coil to the
> > starter solenoid. It hooks on the small side post or ties in with the
> > light blue wire there. This is the power to the coil when the starter
> > is turning and must be hooked back up to get any spark.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > griffin wrote:
> > >
> > > '85 Jeep CJ7 4cyl 2.5L. Fixed the timing chain and reassembled
> yesterday.
> > > Started up but didn't have a tach so we couldn't set the idle speed and
> > > timing properly. Because the distributor was moved it's way off time (it
> > > should be 12 BTDC and is like 16-20, not to mention the idle speed is a
> > > mess). I tried driving it but it had absolutely no power and if I let
> off
> > > the gas even a little it would backfire. So today I get a laser tach and
> my
> > > timing light and disconnect the proper stuff to set the timing and plug
> the
> > > vacuum, etc. When I go to start it - nothing. It just turns over and
> over
> > > but never fires. At one point I almost got it to start but then it
> flooded.
> > > After that it would just do the same turning over with no apparent
> spark. I
> > > took the #1 plug wire and tried to get a spark on some metal but there
> was
> > > nothing so I tried the center plug off the distributor and got nothing
> there
> > > (tried it both grounded and not grounded). Next up I check my voltage
> > > readings. I get 12V across the battery and 12V across the electrical
> coil on
> > > the firewall when I go straight from the coil connector (the black
> connector
> > > that slides over the coil) to the battery but ONLY when it is
> disconnected
> > > from the coil itself. If I put it on the coil I get 6V. I'm assuming
> this is
> > > wrong. I just replaced the coil and had my control module tested and
> still
> > > no spark and still 6V reading. Where do I go from here?! All my
> connections
> > > seem to be connected and all vacuum hoses/etc seem to be properly
> connected.
> > > The only thing that appears wrong is that there are two red wires on my
> > > black connector on the top of the electrical coil and one of them goes
> no
> > > where and I can find no where to connect it.
> > >
> > > Thanks!

 

When the starter turns, it takes all the power so you get a direct from
the battery via the relay power to the coil. If you do not have this,
you have no spark when the starter is turning.

The black connector is for a capacitor.

Inside the harness about a foot or so away from the coil, the red wire
splits at a crimp connector into one fat red rubber one and one that
goes to the starter relay. The soft fat one is the ballast wire that
provides power when the key is in run. It is about 6' long ant
terminates in a crimp connector up by the brake booster with a brown
wire going to the alternator. You have verified power there already,
you are missing power when the starter is turning so you have no spark.

A multi meter on continuity would show if the coil red to the relay is
ok.

You have a pickup coil in the distributor that can be tested with the
meter on ohms. It should have between 400 to 800 ohms.

The cheap Haynes CJ manual has a wiring diagram that is spot on for the
80's CJ's, I have rewired several using it.

Mike

griffin wrote:
>
> K I looked at the starter solenoid on the bellhousing and there is one big
> black wire running to the far side of my starter relay mounted on my
> passenger wheel well. The one red wire on the electrical coil cap seems to
> run to one of the little rubber caps that connects onto the screw on the
> starter relay (I'll confirm this later with the multimeter cuz the wire gets
> lost in a wire bundle). The other red wire is really really short and isn't
> broken off ...it's disconnected. There is a long female black connector on
> the end that connects to no apparent place.
>
> I'm wondering if something inside the distributor didn't blow. My dad is
> familiar with some distributors but this one (the manual calls it
> "breakerless") has him confused. We are unable to get the rotor off to see
> where the three wires go inside of it or how it works. Is there a solenoid
> in there? Could something inside have gone screwy? If so, how do we take it
> apart?
>
> Also, if anyone has wiring schematics for '85 CJ7 (4 cyl 2.5L), if they
> could send them I'd be so grateful. The wiring on this thing looks like a
> box of phone cords and it makes no sense. There's been too many hands in
> there messin stuff up.
>
> Thanks!
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4263ACDD.C3F8FD@sympatico.ca...
> > When you turn the key to run, the coil red wire should see about 9
> > volts. If you put the meter on the green wire from the ignition module,
> > it should read 5 or 6 volts.
> >
> > The red wire that broke off is the wire that goes from the coil to the
> > starter solenoid. It hooks on the small side post or ties in with the
> > light blue wire there. This is the power to the coil when the starter
> > is turning and must be hooked back up to get any spark.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > griffin wrote:
> > >
> > > '85 Jeep CJ7 4cyl 2.5L. Fixed the timing chain and reassembled
> yesterday.
> > > Started up but didn't have a tach so we couldn't set the idle speed and
> > > timing properly. Because the distributor was moved it's way off time (it
> > > should be 12 BTDC and is like 16-20, not to mention the idle speed is a
> > > mess). I tried driving it but it had absolutely no power and if I let
> off
> > > the gas even a little it would backfire. So today I get a laser tach and
> my
> > > timing light and disconnect the proper stuff to set the timing and plug
> the
> > > vacuum, etc. When I go to start it - nothing. It just turns over and
> over
> > > but never fires. At one point I almost got it to start but then it
> flooded.
> > > After that it would just do the same turning over with no apparent
> spark. I
> > > took the #1 plug wire and tried to get a spark on some metal but there
> was
> > > nothing so I tried the center plug off the distributor and got nothing
> there
> > > (tried it both grounded and not grounded). Next up I check my voltage
> > > readings. I get 12V across the battery and 12V across the electrical
> coil on
> > > the firewall when I go straight from the coil connector (the black
> connector
> > > that slides over the coil) to the battery but ONLY when it is
> disconnected
> > > from the coil itself. If I put it on the coil I get 6V. I'm assuming
> this is
> > > wrong. I just replaced the coil and had my control module tested and
> still
> > > no spark and still 6V reading. Where do I go from here?! All my
> connections
> > > seem to be connected and all vacuum hoses/etc seem to be properly
> connected.
> > > The only thing that appears wrong is that there are two red wires on my
> > > black connector on the top of the electrical coil and one of them goes
> no
> > > where and I can find no where to connect it.
> > >
> > > Thanks!