What a dumb ass
#151
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What a dumb ***
Honestly, I have never seen instructions on oil filter changing. I didn't
even know there were instructions. I went outside last night after reading
your post to look on the box for instructions and sure enough, there was a 5
step "Pictures", no text on what to do.
I have never done this in the past but of course, will in the future.
It was the R&R guys who installed the other filter (It was a Fram Filter)
which left the O-Ring in place and when I took it off It was quite easy to
twist off which I thought was un-ususal. Anyway, don't know if they used
oil on the Fram filter O-Ring or not. If they didn't, add that to the
tackyness of the new paint I can understand why it didn't come off.
Especially since the filter wasn't tightened down that much.
Bill
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C800AE.7B44A05A@***.net...
> A lube "O" ring would allow it to spin off with the filter. "Before
> you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan
> and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set
> it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a
> clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil
> filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post."
> http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...8/article.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I don't know how lubing the O-ring on the new filter would prevent not
> > seeing an existing O-Ring still attached to the "filter jack" or
whatever
> > it's called. You're looking at a new filter totally detached and away
from
> > the engine. Unless by oiling the new filter O-Ring it consciously
brings
> > your attention to the old filter O-Ring making sure the old one comes
off.
> > That I buy. Also, if there's any dirt around the engine and filter it
would
> > seem a wipe down would be in order before you take the old one off
> > preventing any dirt to fall down into the "filter jack". At that point
why
> > would there be any dirt on the "filter jack" if I'm understanding what
your
> > saying below. Still room for error here.
> >
> > Maybe if you said you thoroughly inspect the old filter and new filter
each
> > time you change one out making sure they were complete and in order.
That
> > would be a better "Filter changing procedure" outline in my mind.
> >
> > That would certainly be my advice from here out.
> >
> > Bill
even know there were instructions. I went outside last night after reading
your post to look on the box for instructions and sure enough, there was a 5
step "Pictures", no text on what to do.
I have never done this in the past but of course, will in the future.
It was the R&R guys who installed the other filter (It was a Fram Filter)
which left the O-Ring in place and when I took it off It was quite easy to
twist off which I thought was un-ususal. Anyway, don't know if they used
oil on the Fram filter O-Ring or not. If they didn't, add that to the
tackyness of the new paint I can understand why it didn't come off.
Especially since the filter wasn't tightened down that much.
Bill
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C800AE.7B44A05A@***.net...
> A lube "O" ring would allow it to spin off with the filter. "Before
> you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan
> and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set
> it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a
> clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil
> filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post."
> http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...8/article.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I don't know how lubing the O-ring on the new filter would prevent not
> > seeing an existing O-Ring still attached to the "filter jack" or
whatever
> > it's called. You're looking at a new filter totally detached and away
from
> > the engine. Unless by oiling the new filter O-Ring it consciously
brings
> > your attention to the old filter O-Ring making sure the old one comes
off.
> > That I buy. Also, if there's any dirt around the engine and filter it
would
> > seem a wipe down would be in order before you take the old one off
> > preventing any dirt to fall down into the "filter jack". At that point
why
> > would there be any dirt on the "filter jack" if I'm understanding what
your
> > saying below. Still room for error here.
> >
> > Maybe if you said you thoroughly inspect the old filter and new filter
each
> > time you change one out making sure they were complete and in order.
That
> > would be a better "Filter changing procedure" outline in my mind.
> >
> > That would certainly be my advice from here out.
> >
> > Bill
#152
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What a dumb ***
Honestly, I have never seen instructions on oil filter changing. I didn't
even know there were instructions. I went outside last night after reading
your post to look on the box for instructions and sure enough, there was a 5
step "Pictures", no text on what to do.
I have never done this in the past but of course, will in the future.
It was the R&R guys who installed the other filter (It was a Fram Filter)
which left the O-Ring in place and when I took it off It was quite easy to
twist off which I thought was un-ususal. Anyway, don't know if they used
oil on the Fram filter O-Ring or not. If they didn't, add that to the
tackyness of the new paint I can understand why it didn't come off.
Especially since the filter wasn't tightened down that much.
Bill
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C800AE.7B44A05A@***.net...
> A lube "O" ring would allow it to spin off with the filter. "Before
> you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan
> and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set
> it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a
> clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil
> filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post."
> http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...8/article.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I don't know how lubing the O-ring on the new filter would prevent not
> > seeing an existing O-Ring still attached to the "filter jack" or
whatever
> > it's called. You're looking at a new filter totally detached and away
from
> > the engine. Unless by oiling the new filter O-Ring it consciously
brings
> > your attention to the old filter O-Ring making sure the old one comes
off.
> > That I buy. Also, if there's any dirt around the engine and filter it
would
> > seem a wipe down would be in order before you take the old one off
> > preventing any dirt to fall down into the "filter jack". At that point
why
> > would there be any dirt on the "filter jack" if I'm understanding what
your
> > saying below. Still room for error here.
> >
> > Maybe if you said you thoroughly inspect the old filter and new filter
each
> > time you change one out making sure they were complete and in order.
That
> > would be a better "Filter changing procedure" outline in my mind.
> >
> > That would certainly be my advice from here out.
> >
> > Bill
even know there were instructions. I went outside last night after reading
your post to look on the box for instructions and sure enough, there was a 5
step "Pictures", no text on what to do.
I have never done this in the past but of course, will in the future.
It was the R&R guys who installed the other filter (It was a Fram Filter)
which left the O-Ring in place and when I took it off It was quite easy to
twist off which I thought was un-ususal. Anyway, don't know if they used
oil on the Fram filter O-Ring or not. If they didn't, add that to the
tackyness of the new paint I can understand why it didn't come off.
Especially since the filter wasn't tightened down that much.
Bill
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C800AE.7B44A05A@***.net...
> A lube "O" ring would allow it to spin off with the filter. "Before
> you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan
> and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set
> it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a
> clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil
> filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post."
> http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...8/article.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I don't know how lubing the O-ring on the new filter would prevent not
> > seeing an existing O-Ring still attached to the "filter jack" or
whatever
> > it's called. You're looking at a new filter totally detached and away
from
> > the engine. Unless by oiling the new filter O-Ring it consciously
brings
> > your attention to the old filter O-Ring making sure the old one comes
off.
> > That I buy. Also, if there's any dirt around the engine and filter it
would
> > seem a wipe down would be in order before you take the old one off
> > preventing any dirt to fall down into the "filter jack". At that point
why
> > would there be any dirt on the "filter jack" if I'm understanding what
your
> > saying below. Still room for error here.
> >
> > Maybe if you said you thoroughly inspect the old filter and new filter
each
> > time you change one out making sure they were complete and in order.
That
> > would be a better "Filter changing procedure" outline in my mind.
> >
> > That would certainly be my advice from here out.
> >
> > Bill
#153
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What a dumb ***
Honestly, I have never seen instructions on oil filter changing. I didn't
even know there were instructions. I went outside last night after reading
your post to look on the box for instructions and sure enough, there was a 5
step "Pictures", no text on what to do.
I have never done this in the past but of course, will in the future.
It was the R&R guys who installed the other filter (It was a Fram Filter)
which left the O-Ring in place and when I took it off It was quite easy to
twist off which I thought was un-ususal. Anyway, don't know if they used
oil on the Fram filter O-Ring or not. If they didn't, add that to the
tackyness of the new paint I can understand why it didn't come off.
Especially since the filter wasn't tightened down that much.
Bill
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C800AE.7B44A05A@***.net...
> A lube "O" ring would allow it to spin off with the filter. "Before
> you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan
> and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set
> it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a
> clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil
> filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post."
> http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...8/article.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I don't know how lubing the O-ring on the new filter would prevent not
> > seeing an existing O-Ring still attached to the "filter jack" or
whatever
> > it's called. You're looking at a new filter totally detached and away
from
> > the engine. Unless by oiling the new filter O-Ring it consciously
brings
> > your attention to the old filter O-Ring making sure the old one comes
off.
> > That I buy. Also, if there's any dirt around the engine and filter it
would
> > seem a wipe down would be in order before you take the old one off
> > preventing any dirt to fall down into the "filter jack". At that point
why
> > would there be any dirt on the "filter jack" if I'm understanding what
your
> > saying below. Still room for error here.
> >
> > Maybe if you said you thoroughly inspect the old filter and new filter
each
> > time you change one out making sure they were complete and in order.
That
> > would be a better "Filter changing procedure" outline in my mind.
> >
> > That would certainly be my advice from here out.
> >
> > Bill
even know there were instructions. I went outside last night after reading
your post to look on the box for instructions and sure enough, there was a 5
step "Pictures", no text on what to do.
I have never done this in the past but of course, will in the future.
It was the R&R guys who installed the other filter (It was a Fram Filter)
which left the O-Ring in place and when I took it off It was quite easy to
twist off which I thought was un-ususal. Anyway, don't know if they used
oil on the Fram filter O-Ring or not. If they didn't, add that to the
tackyness of the new paint I can understand why it didn't come off.
Especially since the filter wasn't tightened down that much.
Bill
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C800AE.7B44A05A@***.net...
> A lube "O" ring would allow it to spin off with the filter. "Before
> you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan
> and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set
> it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a
> clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil
> filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post."
> http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...8/article.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I don't know how lubing the O-ring on the new filter would prevent not
> > seeing an existing O-Ring still attached to the "filter jack" or
whatever
> > it's called. You're looking at a new filter totally detached and away
from
> > the engine. Unless by oiling the new filter O-Ring it consciously
brings
> > your attention to the old filter O-Ring making sure the old one comes
off.
> > That I buy. Also, if there's any dirt around the engine and filter it
would
> > seem a wipe down would be in order before you take the old one off
> > preventing any dirt to fall down into the "filter jack". At that point
why
> > would there be any dirt on the "filter jack" if I'm understanding what
your
> > saying below. Still room for error here.
> >
> > Maybe if you said you thoroughly inspect the old filter and new filter
each
> > time you change one out making sure they were complete and in order.
That
> > would be a better "Filter changing procedure" outline in my mind.
> >
> > That would certainly be my advice from here out.
> >
> > Bill
#154
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What a dumb ***
I just got a new car and the manual says 7500 miles (that is the normal
mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
be different from a new car?
c wrote:
> It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild. Most
> engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use, but
> are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a new
> engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for metal
> particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to use a
> straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so. It
> is just good preventive maintenance.
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give feedback.
>>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine was
>>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker, sluggier
>>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
>>
>>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
>>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
>>
>>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
be different from a new car?
c wrote:
> It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild. Most
> engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use, but
> are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a new
> engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for metal
> particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to use a
> straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so. It
> is just good preventive maintenance.
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give feedback.
>>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine was
>>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker, sluggier
>>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
>>
>>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
>>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
>>
>>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#155
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What a dumb ***
I just got a new car and the manual says 7500 miles (that is the normal
mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
be different from a new car?
c wrote:
> It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild. Most
> engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use, but
> are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a new
> engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for metal
> particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to use a
> straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so. It
> is just good preventive maintenance.
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give feedback.
>>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine was
>>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker, sluggier
>>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
>>
>>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
>>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
>>
>>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
be different from a new car?
c wrote:
> It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild. Most
> engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use, but
> are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a new
> engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for metal
> particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to use a
> straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so. It
> is just good preventive maintenance.
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give feedback.
>>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine was
>>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker, sluggier
>>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
>>
>>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
>>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
>>
>>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#156
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What a dumb ***
I just got a new car and the manual says 7500 miles (that is the normal
mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
be different from a new car?
c wrote:
> It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild. Most
> engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use, but
> are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a new
> engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for metal
> particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to use a
> straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so. It
> is just good preventive maintenance.
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give feedback.
>>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine was
>>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker, sluggier
>>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
>>
>>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
>>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
>>
>>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
be different from a new car?
c wrote:
> It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild. Most
> engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use, but
> are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a new
> engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for metal
> particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to use a
> straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so. It
> is just good preventive maintenance.
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give feedback.
>>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine was
>>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker, sluggier
>>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
>>
>>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
>>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
>>
>>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#157
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What a dumb ***
I just got a new car and the manual says 7500 miles (that is the normal
mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
be different from a new car?
c wrote:
> It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild. Most
> engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use, but
> are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a new
> engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for metal
> particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to use a
> straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so. It
> is just good preventive maintenance.
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give feedback.
>>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine was
>>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker, sluggier
>>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
>>
>>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
>>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
>>
>>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
be different from a new car?
c wrote:
> It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild. Most
> engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use, but
> are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a new
> engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for metal
> particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to use a
> straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so. It
> is just good preventive maintenance.
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
>
>>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give feedback.
>>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine was
>>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker, sluggier
>>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
>>
>>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
>>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
>>
>>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#158
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What a dumb ***
I believe a new car (engine) goes through the initial break in process
before it leaves the factory.
Bill
"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nH1yc.4970$Y3.2294@newsread2.news.atl.earthli nk.net...
> I just got a new car and the manual says 7500 miles (that is the normal
> mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
> be different from a new car?
>
> c wrote:
>
> > It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild.
Most
> > engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> > assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use,
but
> > are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a
new
> > engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for
metal
> > particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to
use a
> > straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> > place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so.
It
> > is just good preventive maintenance.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
> >
> >>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give
feedback.
> >>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine
was
> >>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker,
sluggier
> >>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
> >>
> >>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
> >>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
> >>
> >>Bill
> >>
> >>
> >>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
> >>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
> >>
> >>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
before it leaves the factory.
Bill
"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nH1yc.4970$Y3.2294@newsread2.news.atl.earthli nk.net...
> I just got a new car and the manual says 7500 miles (that is the normal
> mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
> be different from a new car?
>
> c wrote:
>
> > It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild.
Most
> > engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> > assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use,
but
> > are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a
new
> > engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for
metal
> > particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to
use a
> > straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> > place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so.
It
> > is just good preventive maintenance.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
> >
> >>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give
feedback.
> >>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine
was
> >>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker,
sluggier
> >>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
> >>
> >>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
> >>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
> >>
> >>Bill
> >>
> >>
> >>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
> >>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
> >>
> >>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
#159
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What a dumb ***
I believe a new car (engine) goes through the initial break in process
before it leaves the factory.
Bill
"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nH1yc.4970$Y3.2294@newsread2.news.atl.earthli nk.net...
> I just got a new car and the manual says 7500 miles (that is the normal
> mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
> be different from a new car?
>
> c wrote:
>
> > It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild.
Most
> > engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> > assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use,
but
> > are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a
new
> > engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for
metal
> > particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to
use a
> > straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> > place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so.
It
> > is just good preventive maintenance.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
> >
> >>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give
feedback.
> >>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine
was
> >>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker,
sluggier
> >>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
> >>
> >>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
> >>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
> >>
> >>Bill
> >>
> >>
> >>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
> >>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
> >>
> >>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
before it leaves the factory.
Bill
"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nH1yc.4970$Y3.2294@newsread2.news.atl.earthli nk.net...
> I just got a new car and the manual says 7500 miles (that is the normal
> mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
> be different from a new car?
>
> c wrote:
>
> > It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild.
Most
> > engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> > assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use,
but
> > are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a
new
> > engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for
metal
> > particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to
use a
> > straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> > place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so.
It
> > is just good preventive maintenance.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
> >
> >>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give
feedback.
> >>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine
was
> >>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker,
sluggier
> >>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
> >>
> >>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
> >>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
> >>
> >>Bill
> >>
> >>
> >>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
> >>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
> >>
> >>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
#160
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What a dumb ***
I believe a new car (engine) goes through the initial break in process
before it leaves the factory.
Bill
"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nH1yc.4970$Y3.2294@newsread2.news.atl.earthli nk.net...
> I just got a new car and the manual says 7500 miles (that is the normal
> mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
> be different from a new car?
>
> c wrote:
>
> > It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild.
Most
> > engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> > assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use,
but
> > are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a
new
> > engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for
metal
> > particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to
use a
> > straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> > place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so.
It
> > is just good preventive maintenance.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
> >
> >>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give
feedback.
> >>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine
was
> >>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker,
sluggier
> >>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
> >>
> >>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
> >>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
> >>
> >>Bill
> >>
> >>
> >>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
> >>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
> >>
> >>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
before it leaves the factory.
Bill
"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nH1yc.4970$Y3.2294@newsread2.news.atl.earthli nk.net...
> I just got a new car and the manual says 7500 miles (that is the normal
> mileage apparently for an oil change on a honda). Why would a rebuild
> be different from a new car?
>
> c wrote:
>
> > It's a good idea to change the oil at 300-500 miles after a rebuild.
Most
> > engine builders use a cam lube, bearing lube, and some type of regular
> > assembly lube. Some of these lubricants are not made for sustained use,
but
> > are made for initial engine startup to prevent lack of lubrication on a
new
> > engine. Also, i many people will cut the oil filter open to look for
metal
> > particles which would indicate a bearing problem. It is also common to
use a
> > straight 30W oil for the initial few hundred miles, so if you live in a
> > place where there are extreme temp changes, it is a good idea to do so.
It
> > is just good preventive maintenance.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2ipvtqFd68n1U1@uni-berlin.de...
> >
> >>Per the engine rebuilder. Maybe Mike, Chris, or others can give
feedback.
> >>Maybe it has something to do with the greases or lubricants the engine
was
> >>put together with. When I changed it out there was some thicker,
sluggier
> >>stuff at the bottom of the drain pan.
> >>
> >>Actually suppose to do it at 350 miles. My odometer is off due to the
> >>different tire size other than stock so it's somewhere around there.
> >>
> >>Bill
> >>
> >>
> >>"Jim85CJ" <jim_85cj@NOSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
> >>news:wiPxc.4442$Y3.245@newsread2.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
> >>
> >>>Why change the oil at 500 miles?
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>