Lee Ayrton

I had a closer look at that fender yesterday while I was scraping rust and
paint flakes off the bottom so I can POR-15 the thing. The fenders are
egg-shell thin from rust eating away the underside, that's why it cracked.
I'm thinking that I'll try backing the crack with a piece of sheet metal
(while hoping to not just vaporize the remaining metal), then embed
fiberglass mat in POR all over the inside to line and stabilize the
fenders. The fenders are 40's vintage and a good bit more stylish than
the simple arches you can get now from Northern Tool, so I'm keen on
keeping them.


On Fri, 3 Dec 2004, L.W.([iso-8859-1] Bill) ------ III wrote:

> Hi Lee,
> Yes, replace the brass bushings:
> http://www.apple.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Pho...earSprings.gif Although,
> you'll probably have to have them made.
> I would gas weld the fender, tapping it with a hammer and wet rag
> to heat shrink it. I don't see a reason for a gusset, unless it's at a
> major support.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>>
>> This is admittedly off-topic, my only excuse is that the trailer will be
>> dragged^W towed behind my CJ and youse guys know stuff.
>>
>> This is a small, all steel utility trailer. I bought it from the original
>> owner, he bought it new from Sears, Roebuck & Co in 1947. The data plate
>> only says Sears, Roebuck & Co., no manufacturer's name. It weighs about
>> 600#.
>>
>> First: I notice that the greasable(!) spring shackles don't have rubber
>> bushings around them, they have about 1/4" of slop all the way around in
>> the eye. I should put in spring bushings, yes? Otherwise there's no
>> reason to grease the things, right?
>>
>> Second: A welding question. IANAWelder, but I can burn holes in stuff
>> with electricity and make ugly puddles of melted metal. One fender has a
>> 1" long crack running up the center of the front edge of the fender, it
>> looks like it is simply fatigue from the fender being leaned on during
>> loading/unloading. I'm guessing that if I drag out my little wire welder
>> and run over the crack it'll just come back. Should I add a strip of
>> sheet metal behind the crack first to act as a stiffener?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> --
>> Some conditions apply. YMMV. This message was packed by weight, not
>> by volume. TWIAVBP, local variation may occur. Dramatization, not a real
>> authority. Do not induce vomiting. No user-serviceable words inside.
>

--
Some conditions apply. YMMV. This message was packed by weight, not
by volume. TWIAVBP, local variation may occur. Dramatization, not a real
authority. Do not induce vomiting. No user-serviceable words inside.

Lee Ayrton

I had a closer look at that fender yesterday while I was scraping rust and
paint flakes off the bottom so I can POR-15 the thing. The fenders are
egg-shell thin from rust eating away the underside, that's why it cracked.
I'm thinking that I'll try backing the crack with a piece of sheet metal
(while hoping to not just vaporize the remaining metal), then embed
fiberglass mat in POR all over the inside to line and stabilize the
fenders. The fenders are 40's vintage and a good bit more stylish than
the simple arches you can get now from Northern Tool, so I'm keen on
keeping them.


On Fri, 3 Dec 2004, L.W.([iso-8859-1] Bill) ------ III wrote:

> Hi Lee,
> Yes, replace the brass bushings:
> http://www.apple.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Pho...earSprings.gif Although,
> you'll probably have to have them made.
> I would gas weld the fender, tapping it with a hammer and wet rag
> to heat shrink it. I don't see a reason for a gusset, unless it's at a
> major support.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>>
>> This is admittedly off-topic, my only excuse is that the trailer will be
>> dragged^W towed behind my CJ and youse guys know stuff.
>>
>> This is a small, all steel utility trailer. I bought it from the original
>> owner, he bought it new from Sears, Roebuck & Co in 1947. The data plate
>> only says Sears, Roebuck & Co., no manufacturer's name. It weighs about
>> 600#.
>>
>> First: I notice that the greasable(!) spring shackles don't have rubber
>> bushings around them, they have about 1/4" of slop all the way around in
>> the eye. I should put in spring bushings, yes? Otherwise there's no
>> reason to grease the things, right?
>>
>> Second: A welding question. IANAWelder, but I can burn holes in stuff
>> with electricity and make ugly puddles of melted metal. One fender has a
>> 1" long crack running up the center of the front edge of the fender, it
>> looks like it is simply fatigue from the fender being leaned on during
>> loading/unloading. I'm guessing that if I drag out my little wire welder
>> and run over the crack it'll just come back. Should I add a strip of
>> sheet metal behind the crack first to act as a stiffener?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> --
>> Some conditions apply. YMMV. This message was packed by weight, not
>> by volume. TWIAVBP, local variation may occur. Dramatization, not a real
>> authority. Do not induce vomiting. No user-serviceable words inside.
>

--
Some conditions apply. YMMV. This message was packed by weight, not
by volume. TWIAVBP, local variation may occur. Dramatization, not a real
authority. Do not induce vomiting. No user-serviceable words inside.

Lee Ayrton

I had a closer look at that fender yesterday while I was scraping rust and
paint flakes off the bottom so I can POR-15 the thing. The fenders are
egg-shell thin from rust eating away the underside, that's why it cracked.
I'm thinking that I'll try backing the crack with a piece of sheet metal
(while hoping to not just vaporize the remaining metal), then embed
fiberglass mat in POR all over the inside to line and stabilize the
fenders. The fenders are 40's vintage and a good bit more stylish than
the simple arches you can get now from Northern Tool, so I'm keen on
keeping them.


On Fri, 3 Dec 2004, L.W.([iso-8859-1] Bill) ------ III wrote:

> Hi Lee,
> Yes, replace the brass bushings:
> http://www.apple.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Pho...earSprings.gif Although,
> you'll probably have to have them made.
> I would gas weld the fender, tapping it with a hammer and wet rag
> to heat shrink it. I don't see a reason for a gusset, unless it's at a
> major support.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>>
>> This is admittedly off-topic, my only excuse is that the trailer will be
>> dragged^W towed behind my CJ and youse guys know stuff.
>>
>> This is a small, all steel utility trailer. I bought it from the original
>> owner, he bought it new from Sears, Roebuck & Co in 1947. The data plate
>> only says Sears, Roebuck & Co., no manufacturer's name. It weighs about
>> 600#.
>>
>> First: I notice that the greasable(!) spring shackles don't have rubber
>> bushings around them, they have about 1/4" of slop all the way around in
>> the eye. I should put in spring bushings, yes? Otherwise there's no
>> reason to grease the things, right?
>>
>> Second: A welding question. IANAWelder, but I can burn holes in stuff
>> with electricity and make ugly puddles of melted metal. One fender has a
>> 1" long crack running up the center of the front edge of the fender, it
>> looks like it is simply fatigue from the fender being leaned on during
>> loading/unloading. I'm guessing that if I drag out my little wire welder
>> and run over the crack it'll just come back. Should I add a strip of
>> sheet metal behind the crack first to act as a stiffener?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> --
>> Some conditions apply. YMMV. This message was packed by weight, not
>> by volume. TWIAVBP, local variation may occur. Dramatization, not a real
>> authority. Do not induce vomiting. No user-serviceable words inside.
>

--
Some conditions apply. YMMV. This message was packed by weight, not
by volume. TWIAVBP, local variation may occur. Dramatization, not a real
authority. Do not induce vomiting. No user-serviceable words inside.